E-collars are often seen as a controversial dog training tool, and I’ve realized that it’s largely because people don’t understand them. There are a lot of misconceptions about dog training methods, and this blog post aims to clear up the distinct difference between shock collars and e-collars! Today I’m writing about 5 dog E-Collar training benefits that all dog owners should know about.
So grab your favorite treat pouch, a long leash, and you’re happy dog to embark on this journey with us!
My Journey to Dog E-Collar Training
Once upon a time, I staunchly adhered to the “Force Free” approach to dog training, advocating solely for positive reinforcement methods. The mere thought of employing an electric collar on my beloved canines was unthinkable, and I admittedly cast judgment on those who did.
My perception of E-Collars was clouded by the misconception that they were instruments of punishment, inflicting shocks and discomfort on dogs simply for behaving naturally.
However, I gradually realized this was a narrow view influenced by common misconceptions. While it’s true that some individuals misuse cheap shock collars, subjecting dogs to unnecessary punishment, an entirely different realm of modern E-Collar training methods prioritizes freedom, enjoyment, and effective communication for dogs.
My perspective shifted dramatically when confronted with owning a fence-jumping Great Dane.
While my Dane’s sibling, who underwent e-collar training, reveled in off-leash freedom, displaying happiness, confidence, and responsiveness, my dog was frustrated being stuck on a long leash in his yard.
Witnessing this stark contrast between the two siblings compelled me to reconsider my stance and explore the potential benefits of modern E-Collar training methods.
When I opened my perspective to it, our whole world changed!
#1 – Ditch the Long Leash
The most powerful benefit of E-Collar training is that you and your pet can eliminate the obstructive, annoying, and potentially dangerous long leash.
Of course, using a leash in areas where being off-leash violates your local ordinances and laws is important.
The E-Collar should be the tool of choice for places where being off-leash could be done legally and safely. Because a physical leash does not restrain them, nothing obstructs their movement.
Long leashes, while seemingly providing freedom for dogs, can pose various risks and dangers if not used cautiously.
Firstly, long leashes increase the risk of entanglement, where the dog may become tangled around objects or even people, leading to potential injury or accidents.
The extended length of the leash can diminish the owner’s control over the dog, especially in situations requiring quick intervention or recall, potentially leading to dangerous situations or the inability to prevent conflicts with other dogs or people.
Furthermore, long leashes can inadvertently encourage undesirable behaviors, such as pulling or bolting, as the dog may perceive the extended length as a license for unrestrained behavior.
Advocates for the “force-free” dog training method will rely heavily on long leashes as a solution for dogs that will run away, even after years of positive-only training. This is where E-Collars should enter the conversation.
#2 – Freedom to Explore
There are many places to explore where your pet could be safely off-leash if they are E-Collar trained! Imagine trekking through a field, down a hiking path, or camping with your dog safely nearby, responsive to you, and free to explore without physical restraint.
With modern E-Collar training, dogs can learn to ignore and avoid distractions, including other dogs, wildlife, bikes, and people. They come when called 100% of the time.
Even your front yard could be an incredible place for your pet to be off-leash if only you had a gentle, effective, and positive communication method.
Off-leash time fosters natural behaviors, such as running, sniffing, and exploring, which are vital for a dog’s physical and mental well-being. It strengthens the bond between owner and dog as they navigate their surroundings, fostering trust and communication.
Enter the modern E-Collar!
#3 – Precise Communication
An e-collar facilitates precise communication between the owner and the dog through its ability to deliver immediate and specific feedback, even from a distance.
It’s important to understand that this feedback doesn’t have to be harsh or unfair! Modern E-Collars use stimulation, not shock, to create a tactile sensation that can be used positively.
The long leash provides tactile feedback to the dog, too. E-Collars replace that sensation with a different one that doesn’t require physical restraint.
Unlike traditional training methods where timing and distance can be challenging to control, e-collars allow owners to deliver corrections or reinforcements with pinpoint accuracy, ensuring that the dog associates the feedback directly with their behavior.
The remote control feature of e-collars enables owners to adjust the intensity of the stimulation or deliver other forms of feedback at the exact moment when the behavior occurs, eliminating any confusion or delay in communication.
This precision in timing and delivery ensures that the dog receives consistent and clear signals, enhancing their understanding of desired behaviors and expediting the training process.
#4 – More Gentle Than a “Gentle Leader”
Gentle Leader head collars are advertised as a gentle solution for pet owners seeking to curb pulling and other leash-related nuisances. Despite this portrayal, these training tools are anything but gentle.
They exert continuous pressure on the dog’s face and eyes, potentially causing discomfort or distress. Additionally, if the dog lunges or pulls, the design of the Gentle Leader can forcibly redirect its head to the side, potentially causing discomfort or injury.
These inherent issues highlight the significant drawbacks of using Gentle Leader head collars.
Interestingly, advocates for such tools often oppose e-collars due to the misconception that they are solely used to administer shocks and intimidate dogs, further illustrating the complexity of the debate surrounding training methodologies.
The tactile sensation they deliver is often imperceptible to most humans until it reaches levels far beyond what the average dog requires to respond positively.
It’s crucial to distinguish between shock collar and e-collar training—they are not synonymous methodologies.
#5 – The Dog Makes Their Own Choices
E-collar training empowers dogs to make their own choices by providing them with clear boundaries and consequences for their actions. Through consistent and well-timed feedback delivered via the e-collar, dogs learn to associate their behaviors with specific outcomes.
This allows them to understand the consequences of their actions and make informed decisions accordingly. It gives them control of their situation, which long leashes cannot do.
For example, if a dog learns that ignoring a recall command results in pressure from the e-collar, they may respond because they know that doing so makes the pressure go away.
The sensation generated by the e-collar is not painful or shocking to dogs; rather, it can be likened to the annoyance of the reminder sound your car emits when the seatbelt remains unbuckled. Just as that gentle pressure prompts you to buckle up, the collar’s sensation serves as a gentle reminder or prompt for the dog to heed a command or adjust their behavior.
Much like the car reminder, it doesn’t startle, harm, or hurt the dog; rather, it encourages them to respond appropriately without causing distress.
By allowing dogs to experience the direct consequences of their choices, e-collar training encourages them to make choices that lead to positive outcomes and reinforce desired behaviors.
When implemented correctly, modern E-Collar training is empowering and freeing for dogs. It’s that simple.
What Are the Best E-Collars for Dogs?
I recommend only two brands.
Do not buy a cheap e-collar from Amazon! Stick to name brands and work with a trainer to learn how to use them. Larry Krohn on YouTube is a phenomenal resource for training tricks!
Mini-Educator
This basic system is perfect for most pet owners, especially those new to E-Collar off-leash training!
Owning a giant breed dog comes with the joy of companionship and the responsibility of proper training. Training big dogs with effective, humane, and safe methods is crucial for managing their size and strength. Nobody likes being yanked around on the sidewalk or having a big dog bolt out of the door!
In this guide, we’ll explore positive reinforcement methods with a touch of balanced techniques, emphasizing key commands tailored to large dogs.
The best training method for big dogs
5 commands all large breed dogs should know
Training methods to avoid when working with dogs
Information about positive reinforcement and balanced training
Prong collars and E-Collars, oh-my!
Training Big Dogs with Positive Reinforcement Dog Training
Positive reinforcement is a cornerstone for training big dogs like Great Danes. Some people may think it means being permissive and easy on their big dog, but nothing could be farther from the truth.
All creatures are motivated by the desire to receive good things in life! Humans will do a good job at work to receive a bonus. Kids will complete chores to receive money or treats. If you’ve ever rewarded yourself with a glass of wine after a long day, you’ve given yourself positive reinforcement.
R+ (positive reinforcement) dog training involves rewarding desired behaviors with treats, praise, or playtime.
You can reward your dog with tiny tidbits for the smallest good things they do! Reward your dog for:
Looking at you
Responding to their name
Sitting politely
Touching their nose to the palm of your hand
Staying on command, even if for only a moment at first
What other things can you actively reward your dog for doing right in your day-to-day lives?
Key Obedience Commands for Big Dogs
All big dogs should have a goal of obtaining at least Canine Good Citizen level basic obedience. This is for their safety and yours!
The Canine Good Citizen test requires that dogs can sit, down, stay, come when called, ignore distractions (including people and dogs), walk politely on a leash, and accept handling (grooming, veterinary care, etc.).
Some dogs will be unable to complete every step of the CGC test due to limitations associated with their temperament; this is ok! The goal is to attempt to pass, whenever possible.
Below I will outline 5 key obedience commands all big dogs should know:
Recall & Coming When Called
A reliable recall is paramount for the safety of giant breed dogs. Begin in a secure, enclosed space with minimal distractions. Use a cheerful tone and offer high-value treats when your dog returns to you promptly after hearing the recall command. Gradually increase the distance and add distractions as your dog becomes more proficient. Read more about teaching a reliable recall HERE.
Gentle Leash Manners
Teaching gentle leash manners is crucial given the strength of giant breeds. Use positive reinforcement to reward your dog for walking calmly beside you. Whenever your dog maintains a loose leash, provide treats and praise. If your dog pulls, stop walking and wait for them to return to your side before resuming the walk, reinforcing the idea that pulling doesn’t lead to progress. We recommend starting in a low-distraction area and building on this skill. For more information about leash training giant dogs, read HERE.
Down-Stay on Command
The down-stay command is particularly useful for large dogs when you need them to remain calm and controlled. Start with short durations and gradually increase the time as your dog becomes more comfortable. Use treats to reward your dog for maintaining the down-stay position. This command is especially beneficial in various situations, such as when guests arrive or during vet visits.
Leave it Command
Teaching a giant breed to ‘leave it’ is essential for their safety, preventing them from picking up harmful objects or engaging in undesirable behaviors. Begin with a treat in your closed hand and say “Leave it.” When your dog refrains from attempting to take the treat, reward them with a different treat from your other hand. Gradually progress to using items on the ground, reinforcing the ‘leave it’ command.
Place Command
The ‘place’ command is useful for directing your giant dog to a designated area. Start with a specific mat or bed, using treats and praise when they follow the command to go to that place. This command is beneficial in various situations, including when you have guests or during meals. Reinforce the positive association by consistently rewarding compliance.
Balanced Dog Training Techniques for Big Dogs
While positive reinforcement is key, balanced techniques can be useful in specific situations. Appropriate corrections, prong collars, and modern e-collars can be effective tools when used correctly and under professional guidance.
These tools should complement, not replace, positive reinforcement and should never be used without diligent research and guidance.
Prong Collars
Prong collars can be effective and gentle tools for training giant breed dogs. Unlike their misleading appearance, prong collars are designed to apply gentle yet firm pressure around the neck. The prongs are rounded and blunt, ensuring they do not cause harm or discomfort when used correctly.
These collars are not meant to choke but rather to provide a clear communication channel between you and your dog. It’s essential to consult with a knowledgeable trainer to learn the proper way to fit and use a prong collar, ensuring it remains a safe and humane option for reinforcing commands and managing your giant breed dog’s behavior. Always prioritize positive reinforcement as the foundation of your training approach, using the prong collar as a supplementary tool for specific situations, such as leash manners, with care and caution.
We believe that a properly used prong collar is MUCH safer and more humane than a Gentle Leader or a No-Pull harness!
Modern E-Collars
In contemporary dog training, modern stimulation e-collars have emerged as effective tools when used responsibly and ethically. These collars provide a mild and adjustable level of stimulation, often described as a gentle tapping sensation, allowing for precise communication with your giant breed dog.
When used correctly, these e-collars can reinforce commands from a distance, making them particularly useful for recall and off-leash training. The key lies in setting the stimulation level at an appropriate intensity, which is more akin to a subtle reminder rather than a harsh correction. This ensures that the training process remains humane and stress-free for your dog.
We recommend that you read our e-collar articles and seek guidance from a professional to understand the correct usage of e-collars.
The Pitfalls of Outdated Dominance and Alpha Dog Training
Previously, dominance and alpha training were popular, but research has shown that these methods can lead to fear and aggression in dogs. Dogs are NOT wolves and they are not always trying to assume the position of pack leader!
Positive reinforcement builds trust and cooperation, fostering a healthier relationship. Avoid outdated dominance-based techniques that may harm your dog’s mental well-being.
Some examples of dominance alpha training methods that you should avoid include:
Intimidating the dog into submission by using a forceful or forward posture
Kicking, pinching, or jabbing the dog
Saying “PSSSHHTTTT“
Rolling the dog onto its back and holding it down (“alpha roll”)
Biting the dog’s ear
Spitting in or stealing the dog’s food
Eating first, walking through doors first (absolute nonsense)
Peeing on the same spot the dog just peed
Throwing bags of chains at the dog to correct them
Socialization and Finding a Dog Trainer
Socialization is vital for big dogs to ensure they are well-behaved in various situations. Expose them to different environments, people, and animals from a young age. Additionally, finding a qualified trainer experienced with giant breeds is essential. Look for positive reinforcement-based trainers who understand the unique needs of large dogs.
Training your Great Dane requires patience, consistency, and the right techniques. Embrace positive reinforcement while incorporating balanced methods for effective obedience. Remember, building a strong bond through trust and cooperation is key to a harmonious relationship with your giant furry friend.
My Great Dane puppy jumped over a fence once. If you’ve found this blog post, you probably have the same problem I once faced! Danes are huge dogs (even as puppies) and many can easily clear a 6ft tall barrier. Even if your dog is friendly, this is a dangerous practice and you are going to want to fix it…asap! If you need to stop a Great Dane from jumping the fence, this post is for you.
Included information:
The cheapest way to keep a dog from jumping the fence
An easy DIY project to secure your yard
How to immediately put a stop to your dog escaping
Positive training techniques
E-Collar training for yard boundaries and fencing
There are a lot of tools and techniques you can use to stop this behavior, so let’s dig in! You can use our handy table of contents to navigate this post, though we recommend reading the whole thing so you have a comprehensive approach to keeping your Great Dane in the yard.
Why Do Great Danes Jump Fences?
If you really, truly want to stop this behavior it’s extremely helpful to address the root cause. Many owners want to skip this step (understandably) but it’s one of the most powerful tactics to stop fence jumping.
Take a look at the information below and give yourself an honest assessment of your Great Dane. What can you do to resolve or eliminate some of these factors?
1. Curiosity and exploration
Dogs, by nature, are curious beings, and Great Danes are no exception. Their inquisitive nature can drive them to explore their surroundings, often leading them to attempt jumping over fences in an effort to satisfy their curiosity.
Of course, Great Danes, being large and agile, may view the world beyond the confines of their yard as an enticing mystery waiting to be unraveled. This natural instinct for exploration, while a commendable trait, can pose challenges for dog owners aiming to maintain a secure environment.
If you have a super curious dog, look for ways to satisfy this curiosity by providing novel experiences as often as possible.
2. Social or environmental stimuli
Great Danes are known for their sociable nature and desire for interaction. The presence of other animals, people passing by, or even enticing stimuli from the outside world can act as powerful motivators for these dogs to attempt escaping the yard.
Recognizing and managing these social and environmental triggers is essential for preventing fence-jumping behavior and ensuring the safety and well-being of both the dog and the community. This is especially true if you have an intact Great Dane seeking to find a mate, or if your dog is aggressive and wishes to harm dogs or people walking by your property.
3. Lack of mental and physical stimulation
Great Danes have a lot of need for physical and mental enrichment. When these needs go unfulfilled, boredom and restlessness may set in, prompting dogs to seek alternative outlets for stimulation. In the absence of mental and physical engagement, a Great Dane may resort to fence-jumping as a means of alleviating monotony or pent-up energy.
Providing sufficient mental challenges through interactive toys, training sessions, and regular exercise can be instrumental in curbing this behavior, addressing the root cause of the issue and promoting a healthier, more contented canine companion.
While you might believe that offering toys or introducing a companion dog for play would eliminate any chance of your dog experiencing boredom, the reality is that, for many dogs, these measures fall short of satisfying their need for mental and physical stimulation.
To put this simply, bored dogs WILL jump fences, even if you think there is no way they could possibly be bored.
How to Stop a Great Dane from Jumping the Fence
There are four main steps to immediately stop dogs from escaping the yard.
Address physical and mental needs (see above)
Manage and prevent the behavior
Secure the yard & make it hard to escape
Train a new behavior
All four of these steps are likely required to ensure that your Great Dane will be reliable in a fenced yard, even if (like me) you only have 3-4 foot split rail!
Remember when I said that I had a Great Dane puppy jump the fence once? Oh yeah. I looked out of my kitchen window to see him romping in the snow with the neighbor dog. My neighbors were TICKED, even though both dogs were having a blast together.
It was several weeks before my sweet Dane pup was allowed in the yard off leash again…which brings me to step two of this process!
Step 1 – Address physical and mental needs
Remember, bored dogs will give themselves a job to do! Here are some fun ways to relieve boredom:
Sit at a park and watch people
Go on a sniff-exploration walk using a long leash
Take a training class to learn how to be calm outside of the home
Learning about scent work and tracking
Feed meals out of puzzles
Scatter feed (by chucking their food into the grass to find)
Make the yard more interesting than being outside of the yard! Play lots of fun games together, add a small kiddie pool, hide treats for your pet to find, or make a digging pit for your dog
To put this simply, it’s very helpful that your yard and the time you spend with your dog in it should be more fun and more appealing than the allure of leaving the yard. Show your Great Dane that the grass really is greener on your side of the fence!
Step 2 – Manage & Prevent Fence Jumping
Assuming now that you’ve made some significant changes to your pet’s mental and physical enrichment routine, you can move onto this step.
I’m going to say something people don’t love…but if you have a dog that jumps fences, you MUST prevent the behavior by all means necessary.
This is a temporary measure that helps ensure safety, and puts a stop to tenacious dogs practicing the behavior of going on an adventure without you. Here are some tips to quickly stop your Great Dane from fence jumping:
Use an ergonomic, sturdy harness (like THIS ONE) to safely secure your pet to a long leash
If your pet will escape a harness, use a martingale collar WITH extra supervision
Keep your pet on a leash in the yard. Ideally, you go outside with them; this is for safety and training reasons.
Use a treat pouch full of high-value goodies to redirect your pet away from the fence (more on this in training)
Triple check your fencing and make sure that it’s fully secure. If you have a smart Great Dane that can open the latch on your gate, lock it shut!
Utilize trees, bushes, or hedges to block the view if possible
Avoid being in the yard at times when other animals or people may be visible from afar (see ‘management’ below)
Look around your yard at the places where your dog tends to jump over the fence. If there are low spots, find ways to block them!
Remember, many dogs can learn not to jump the fence and with time you can relax some of your management and supervision. Until then, this step is necessary. Your dog must never, ever, jump the fence again.
If they do? It’s your fault. Don’t let that fall on your shoulders!
Step 3 – Secure the Yard & Make it Hard to Escape
There are some incredible DIY projects to stop fence jumping and secure the yard! These don’t have to cost a lot of money, in fact, a lot of really good fence jumping solutions are very affordable.
DIY Coyote Roller to Stop Dogs from Fence Jumping
This is perhaps the most popular way to stop a Great Dane from jumping the fence. By installing coyote rollers on the perimeter of your yard, it will be very difficult for your dog to get enough grip to launch themselves into freedom.
Coyote rollers are made of cheap PVC pipe and do exactly what you think they will! When your Great Dane jumps up onto the edge of the fence, the roller will roll your dog right off.
Of course, this solution will not work if you have a dog that can clear a fence without touching it, or if your HOA is going to start sending you nasty letters about it. So think about what you are getting into before you apply this solution.
Adding a Trellis to Prevent Dogs from Jumping the Fence
A more HOA friendly solution to prevent fence hopping of shorter fences is to purchase tall trellis and grow plants on them! This solution works best for dogs that are easily deterred by simple boundaries.
I purchased 5 ft tall wire trellis at our local Costco store last summer and put them at the lowest spots along our split rail. They look nice and keep my big Dane from thinking he can use that area to leave the yard.
This solution may not work for 5+ foot fences.
Because they might not be available at Costco, I dug up a similar one on Amazon for you!
Bird spikes are made to prevent birds from landing (and pooping) on things, but they work well for keeping cats, racoons, and dog paws off the top of the fence line. This type of solution works best for dogs that use the fence to hop over it (by putting their paws on the top first), and on fencing that is fairly solid along the edge (to secure the spikes).
Of course, we cannot overlook the obvious solution for dogs leaving the yard. If you can afford it, and your HOA will allow, make your fence taller! Some Great Danes can live in homes with short fences, but others need a solid 6-7 foot boundary to stay safely in the yard. Privacy fence is ideal.
Step 4 – Train Your Great Dane Not to Jump the Fence
Now that you’ve applied all of the appropriate changes to management, activity, routine, and security it’s time to put a full stop to fence jumping. This requires a little more dedication on your part, but it’s important and well worth it!
I will break down the training steps below, but here is a basic run down:
Train a rock solid recall (coming when called)
Use boundary flags to teach the dog to turn away from the fence
Use counter-conditioning to teach the dog to ignore outside influences (dogs or people walking by)
If necessary, you can then also layer in an e-collar or invisible fence system
Train a ROCK SOLID Recall
Training a rock-solid recall, or getting your dog to come when called reliably, is an essential skill that ensures their safety and strengthens the bond between you and your Great Dane. Dogs with excellent recall are much less likely to jump the fence and if they do? They will come running back to you immediately. Here’s a step-by-step guide to achieving a dependable recall:
1. Start Indoors: Begin the training in a quiet indoor environment where distractions are minimal. Use a leash and collar or harness.
2. Positive Associations: Make coming to you a positive experience. Use treats, toys, or verbal praise to reward your dog when they respond to your recall command.
3. Use a Distinct Recall Command: Choose a specific and distinct recall command, such as “come” or “here.” Be consistent with the chosen command to avoid confusion. Do not ‘poison’ this cue by punishing your dog when they do come to you.
4. Short Distances First: Start with short distances when practicing recall indoors. Call your dog with an enthusiastic voice and reward them generously when they come to you.
5. Gradual Increase in Distance: As your dog becomes more reliable indoors, gradually increase the distance. Continue rewarding them for a successful recall.
6. Introduce Distractions: Move the training outdoors to a fenced area. Introduce mild distractions such as other people, mild scents, or toys. Practice the recall command in the presence of these distractions.
7. Leash Training: Attach a long leash to your dog’s collar or harness when training outdoors. This provides a safety net if your dog doesn’t respond immediately and helps you gently guide them back to you.
8. High-Value Rewards: Use high-value treats or toys for outdoor training to compete with more enticing distractions. Ensure that the rewards are more appealing than whatever may distract your dog.
9. Consistency is Key: Be consistent with your commands and rewards. Always reward your dog when they come to you, and avoid scolding if they take longer than expected.
10. Randomize Rewards: Occasionally reward your dog with surprise treats or extra enthusiastic praise to keep them motivated.
11. Practice Regularly: Regular practice is crucial for maintaining a strong recall. Even after your dog has mastered the command, continue occasional training sessions to reinforce the behavior.
12. Proofing: Gradually expose your dog to more challenging environments and distractions. This process, known as proofing, helps solidify the recall in various situations.
13. Use a Release Command: Introduce a release command (e.g., “okay” or “free”) to let your dog know they are no longer under your direct command. This helps prevent them from associating coming to you with the end of fun.
14. Patience and Positive Reinforcement: Training takes time, so be patient. Consistent positive reinforcement builds a strong foundation for a reliable recall.
Use Boundary Flags to Teach the Dog to Turn Away from the Fence
Using boundary flags is an effective way to teach a dog to turn away from the fence and understand the limits of their designated area. This method is commonly employed with invisible dog fences, where the flags help create a visual barrier. Get Boundary Flags HERE.
Here’s a step-by-step guide:
1. Set Up the Flags: Place boundary flags along the perimeter of the designated area where you want your dog to learn the boundaries. Ensure the flags are visible and spaced consistently.
2. Introduce the Dog to the Flags: Allow your dog to become familiar with the boundary flags by letting them explore the flagged area on a leash. This helps them associate the flags with the boundaries.
3. Use Positive Reinforcement: Walk your dog along the perimeter while on a leash, and each time they approach the flagged area, say a command like “away” or “turn” and gently guide them away from the flags. Reward them with treats and praise when they comply.
4. Reinforce the Command: Repeat the process consistently, reinforcing the command and redirection away from the flags. Make the experience positive and enjoyable for your dog.
5. Gradual Off-Leash Training: Once your dog starts responding well on a leash, begin off-leash training in a secure, enclosed area. Continue using the command and rewarding positive behavior.
6. Increase Distractions: Gradually introduce distractions within the flagged area, such as toys or other pets. This helps reinforce the concept of turning away from the boundary even in the presence of tempting stimuli.
7. Correcting Unwanted Behavior: If your dog attempts to cross the boundary, use a verbal correction or a gentle tug on the leash to guide them back. Be consistent in redirecting them away from the flagged area.
8. Supervised Freedom: Allow your dog supervised freedom within the designated area, reinforcing the training regularly. Be attentive to any signs of potential boundary testing.
9. Expand Training to Unflagged Areas: Once your dog consistently respects the flagged boundaries, gradually remove the flags. Continue the training without the visual cues, reinforcing the verbal command.
10. Regular Reinforcement: Periodically reinforce the training by walking your dog around the perimeter, using the command, and rewarding compliance. This helps maintain the learned behavior over time.
11. Be Patient and Consistent: Training takes time, and every dog learns at its own pace. Be patient, consistent, and positive throughout the process.
12. Monitor and Adjust: Monitor your dog’s behavior around the boundaries, especially during periods of excitement or new distractions. Adjust the training as needed to address any challenges that may arise.
Using boundary flags to teach a dog to turn away from the fence requires patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement. By following these steps, you can create a clear understanding of boundaries, promoting a safe and secure environment for your dog.
Use Counter-Conditioning to Teach the Dog to Ignore the World Outside of the Fence
Counter-conditioning is a powerful training technique that can be used to teach a dog to ignore the world outside of the fence, especially when they exhibit reactivity or excessive interest in the World outside of your yard. This method involves changing the dog’s emotional response to a particular trigger, in this case, the sights and sounds beyond the fence. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
1. Identify Triggers: Determine specific triggers that cause your dog to become reactive or overly interested in the world outside the fence. This could include people passing by, other animals, or environmental stimuli.
2. Choose a Safe and Controlled Environment: Begin training in a quiet and controlled environment where you can manage the distance between your dog and the trigger stimuli.
3. Establish a Relaxation Zone: Set up a designated relaxation zone within the fenced area where your dog can comfortably observe the triggers from a safe distance.
4. Introduce High-Value Rewards: Use high-value treats or toys that your dog loves. These treats should be particularly enticing and reserved for this training.
5. Observe Trigger Stimuli from a Distance: Allow your dog to observe the trigger stimuli from the relaxation zone. As soon as your dog notices the stimuli but remains calm, immediately reward them with a treat and praise. The goal is to create positive associations with the triggers.
6. Gradual Desensitization: Gradually decrease the distance between your dog and the trigger stimuli over several sessions, but only if your dog remains calm. If they show signs of stress or reactivity, increase the distance again.
7. Consistency is Key: Be consistent with your rewards and praise. Reward calm behavior promptly to reinforce the connection between remaining calm and receiving positive reinforcement.
8. Use Verbal Cues: Introduce a verbal cue (e.g., “ignore” or “leave it”) while rewarding your dog for calm behavior. Eventually, your dog will associate the cue with ignoring the trigger stimuli.
9. Practice Regularly: Consistent practice is essential for success. Aim for short, frequent training sessions to reinforce the desired behavior.
10. Increase Difficulty Gradually: As your dog becomes more proficient at ignoring trigger stimuli, gradually introduce more challenging scenarios, such as increased activity or novel stimuli.
11. Generalize the Behavior: Practice in various locations and with different stimuli to generalize the behavior. This helps your dog generalize the concept of ignoring external triggers.
12. Patience and Positive Reinforcement: Patience is crucial. Remember that changing behavior takes time. Continue reinforcing positive behavior and be patient as your dog learns to ignore the world beyond the fence.
13. Seek Professional Help if Needed: If your dog’s reactivity is severe or you encounter difficulties, consider seeking the assistance of a professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
By implementing counter-conditioning techniques consistently and with patience, you can teach your dog to ignore the world outside of the fence, fostering a calmer and more relaxed demeanor in various environments.
Add an E-Collar or Invisible Fence System
For dogs that still need an extra layer of security to keep them in the yard, we recommend a high quality e-collar or invisible fence system. It is much better and much safer for a dog to feel a small discomfort than it is for them to be hit by a car; so please disregard anybody who considers this last step somehow inhumane or inappropriate. There are times when this is the safest and most ethical response to fence jumping!
E-Collars for Stopping Fence Jumping
We only recommend E-Collar Technologies collars. There are two models that are fantastic for training Great Danes:
Mini-Educator (Awesome entry level model for those new to modern E-collar training) EZ Educator (More robust model with more features)
To properly use an E-Collar, you must first condition your dog to understand what the communication from the collar means, first.
Start by placing the collar on your dog without activating any stimulation. Offer treats, praise, and play to create positive associations with the collar. During this introductory phase, ensure that your dog remains calm and comfortable. Gradually introduce the sensation of the e-collar’s stimulation at the lowest level, using positive reinforcement immediately afterward.
Repeat this process over several sessions, gradually increasing the stimulation levels only to the point that your dog is happily running towards you when they feel it. Always prioritize positive experiences, associating the e-collar with rewards, and maintaining a calm environment. Consistency and gradual progression are key to successfully conditioning your dog to the e-collar while preserving a trusting and positive bond.
PRO TIP: For a device from Educator Technologies, most dogs are very responsive between levels 3-10. Anything higher than that is corrective and should not be done during the conditioning phase.
Now that your pet is conditioned to the collar, you can use it for correcting them at the fence line.
1. Associate the Fence with Correction: When your dog approaches the fence with the intention of jumping, use a command such as “no” or “stop” before activating the e-collar. This helps your dog associate the correction with the unwanted behavior.
2. Apply Progressive Correction: If your dog continues to approach or attempt to jump the fence, use the progressive continuous correction feature on the e-collar. Start with a low level and gradually increase as the behavior persists.
3. Immediate Release of Stimulation: The correction should immediately cease when your dog stops the undesired behavior. This ensures your dog associates the correction with the fence-jumping behavior, and the removal of the correction when they make the right choice.
The Best Invisible Fences for Great Danes
If you are interested in automating the process of correcting your dog for attempting to leave the yard, consider an invisible fence as added protection. This solution comes with some caveats, however.
Some dogs learn to blow through the correction
The collars have to be worn and rotated constantly
This requires diligent boundary training
Invisible fencing doesn’t keep other dogs OUT of the yard (if there is no physical fence)
It’s expensive
Hard to install – for fence jumping, the wired invisible fence system is necessary
There are two invisible fence systems we recommend for Danes.
The Dogtra wired system consists of an underground wire, buried around the perimeter of the designated area, and a collar worn by the dog that is equipped with a receiver. As the dog approaches the boundary, the collar emits a warning signal, followed by vibration and/or a mild static correction if the dog continues to move closer.
The training process involves the dog learning to associate the warning signal with the boundary, facilitating self-correction over time. This invisible yet secure containment method provides dogs with the freedom to roam within predefined limits while ensuring their safety.
The wired e-fence is particularly useful for properties where traditional physical fences might be impractical, unreliable, or aesthetically undesirable, offering pet owners a reliable means of keeping their dogs safely within designated areas. Regular training, positive reinforcement, and careful installation are crucial components of a successful and humane wired e-fence containment system.
We’ve said this before and we will see it again: we would MUCH rather a dog experience a small static correction than be hit by a car.
What I put on my dog’s collar isn’t just a style statement; it’s a full-on toolkit for their safety, ID, training, and even location tracking. Stick around as I spill the tea on what’s hanging around my pups’ necks and why it’s a game-changer.
What I Put On My Dog’s Collar Priority #1: Safety
Safety is the most important thing for our dogs, so it is important to me that I keep my dogs safe with the use of their collar.
What you put on your dog’s collar should be a matter of safety
Safety matters!!!
E-Collar training keeps my dogs safe, so I use an e-collar as their ‘primary’ collar
When it comes to keeping my pups out of trouble, e-collar training is the unsung hero. It’s not just about behavior; it’s a safety net. The seamless integration of e-collar features ensures that my dogs not only learn the ropes but stay out of harm’s way. These e-collar safety features are a game-changer in responsible pet parenting, providing a balance between training and protection.
While going on a standard leash walk, my dogs will wear their regular leash collar as well as their ‘decked out’ e collar. The leash is attached to their regular collar. Never attach a leash to an e collar.
My dogs cannot be safe unless I know where they are! Therefore, I use GPS (Apple Tag) as a digital guardian
Enter the GPS revolution with the Apple AirTag – my digital guardian for those unpredictable adventures. With GPS tracking for pets, I can breathe easy knowing that even if my psycho dogs decide to embark on an impromptu adventure, I can swiftly locate them. This technology isn’t just a convenience; it’s a peace of mind for any dog parent who’s had a moment of panic when their pup went off the grid.
See more later on which air-tag holders I use and which I do NOT recommend using.
Keeping identification on your dog can keep them safe in the long run
Identification is a cornerstone of safety, and my dog’s collar is a walking ID card. With multiple contact numbers on the tags, engraved details, and crucial medical information, it’s like a fail-safe system. Should my adventurous pup find themselves in a tricky situation, anyone who lends a helping hand has all the necessary info to reunite us.
Using the Quick Snap for Emergency Situations
And here’s the ace up my sleeve – the quick snap on the e-collar band. This nifty feature isn’t just about easy on-and-off during training sessions; it’s a potential lifesaver. If my dog ever gets stuck or faces a choking hazard, that quick snap allows me to free them in seconds. It’s a small detail with a big impact, adding an extra layer to the safety dance of responsible dog ownership.
The quick snap collar from e-collar technology looks like this:
What I Put On My Dog’s Collar Priority #2: Identification
Identification is an obviously important part of your dog’s collar. I have personally found several lost dogs and the very first thing I do is look for an identification tag so that I can try to get ahold of the dog’s owner! There are several different ways of adding an identification tag onto the dog’s collar and none of these are necessarily ‘right’ or ‘wrong… But, here is what my opinions are!
Always put multiple phone numbers on the dog’s identification tag
Having multiple contact numbers on their tags is a golden rule. It’s like a backup plan – just in case one of us is unreachable, there’s always another lifeline. These dog collar safety features go beyond just looking good; they’re a practical way to make sure someone can reach us if our pups decide to embark on an unplanned adventure.
Jangling or sound proof, do you care if your dog’s identification tag makes noise?
Now, let’s talk about the tag jangle – some pups don’t mind it, while others act like they’re auditioning for a percussion band. It’s all about personal preference. Likewise, some owners don’t seem to mind it, while the ‘jangling’ noise tends to drive me crazy!
If you’re on Team “Silence is Golden,” you might want to consider a soundproof tag. Balancing stylish and functional dog collars means taking into account the little details that make a big difference in your pup’s comfort and your sanity.
The worst ‘soundproof’ tag
Getting a tag for your dog that is soundproof is useless if that said tag breaks within 1 day. Then you really won’t be able to hear it! These are the ‘soundproof’ dog collar tags that I have personally tried and found useless because they break off within a few weeks and I never see them again.
DO NOT BUY THESE TAGS!!!
The best ‘soundproof’ tag
The best soundproof tag I have ever used, and the one I personally use, is made from metal and not sillicone. Maybe your dogs do not wrestle or roughhouse, but the second mine do the sillicone ones fall off. So, I look for a tag that does NOT hang, but also will NOT break. This tag has never fallen off and always remains secure around my e collar band.
Put medical information on your dog’s tag, if they need medicine or have any conditions
For those extra layers of safety, tossing in some medical information on the tag is a smart move. If your furball has any special needs or conditions, having it right there on the collar is like a note to anyone who lends a helping hand. It’s one of those dog collar identification tips that can make all the difference in a crucial moment.
Put a return address on your dog’s collar – home sweet home
And of course, let’s not forget the good old return address. If our mischievous pals decide to go on a solo mission, having an address on their collar ensures they find their way back home. It’s not just about safety; it’s about peace of mind, knowing that if they get lost, someone kind will guide them back to us.
What I Put On My Dog’s Collar Priority #3: Training
Being able to train my dogs and communicate with them with the use of their collar is huge. Their collar is not just ‘dead-weight’ but its actually a tool that we can use to bond and grow closer in our relationship. They get to explore the world because of the tools on their collar!
Which band do I use? Quick Snap Mini Bungee Collar
Let’s get down to the nitty-gritty of my doggy training arsenal.
The star of the show? The 3/4″ Quick Snap Mini Bungee Collar – an absolute game-changer for convenient e-collar training. Why? The Quick Snap Mini Bungee Collar has an easy-on, easy-off design, thanks to the quick snap feature which helps so much for off-leash dog safety. No more wrestling with collars; it’s a breeze.
Plus, the fashion-forward part – it comes in Black, Blue, Brown, Green, Orange, Pink, Purple, Red, Teal, and Yellow. Stylish and functional – my kind of combo.
Each button on the remote (and there are four: red, yellow, orange, and red again) corresponds to one of my dogs’ colors. It’s like a high-tech doggy rainbow, making remote control dog training a walk in the park.
Here are some resources from my website that are about training with an e collar and without an e collar that you may find helpful.
Now, let’s talk about the real magic – e-collar training. It’s not just about teaching your pup to sit and stay; it’s a lifeline for off-leash adventures. Off-leash dog safety is paramount, and e-collar training gives me the confidence that my dogs will come running back when I call. It’s like having a conversation with them, a silent understanding that keeps them safe and happy. While you’re at it, check out these hilarious (not really that funny) off leash fails….
Here are some more e-collar resources if you are interested!
What I Put On My Dog’s Collar Priority #4: GPS Location
If you have off leash dogs, lets face it you need to have some form of GPS tracking device on their collar. It’s for peace of mind but also hugely important for that ‘what if’ of them getting lost or you losing track of them momentarily. Let’s chat about GPS tracking and how it might just be the game-changer we didn’t know we needed for our chaos-makers. I have tried MANY and have also LOST many…. so I know the pain.
Using an Apple AirTag to Track My Dogs Location
There are hundreds (probably) of fancy tracking devices out there for our dogs, but my favorite is the Apple Airtag. (call me boring!)
When it comes to ensuring the safety and whereabouts of my off-leash adventurers, the Apple AirTag emerges as a cornerstone of dog collar safety features. The airtag does not faulty in its ability to track my dogs, and it works basically the exact same as the fancy expensive ones that require a subscription, although it does NOT do the fun/fancy thingsl ike track their health/sleep, steps.
Functioning like a digital leash, this ingenious device provides the peace of mind that, even in their wanderlust moments, I can effortlessly track down my pups with just a few taps on my phone.
Plus, air-tags are pretty affordable. They are about $90 for 4 of them and you don’t have to have a subscription. You can look at the listing on amazon here:
Major downside of using an apple air-tag: I lose them all the time
One major downside of using an apple airtag to help me not lose my dogs is… well, I lose my apple airtags. My dogs play hard and I noticed the airtag holders continually fell off, broke, and we’d lose the airtags. Although you may be asking ‘why can’t you just track the airtag and go find it?’… We did! However, in open fields with tall grass, the airtag would be leading me to the general location of my DOG but it can be tough to trace down a tiny airtag. Also, the airtags DO die after awhile. Once, someone also STOLE a lost airtag of mine (so that was fun)…
In other words, if you are using an apple airtag, take it from me, and do NOT buy the following airtag-holders because they will break and fall off of your dog’s collar and you may never recover them.
Do not use the following airtag holders – they will break!!!
This ultra-durable accessory not only fits snugly on all widths of collars but also comes in a convenient 4-pack. (Well, for us crazy people who have 4 dogs)
Seamlessly attaching to the e-collar band is easy because the e collar bands have pre-made holes for easy installation. And better than that, you won’t lose it and have to buy new holders/air-tags every few weeks/months. You can find it here.
What I Put On My Dogs Collar – Summary
In a nutshell, what I put on my dogs’ collars goes beyond just a simple collar. I have the band from e-collar tech, the device from e-collar tech, a soundproof and reliable form of identification, the apple airtag with the reliable means of holding it (which won’t fall off) and have thought through the inclusion of safety features like the quick snap on the e-collar band ensures swift removal in potential choking hazards.
While GPS tracking, notably through the Apple AirTag, provides an extra layer of security for off-leash adventures, the identification game is strong with multiple contact numbers, medical information, and a return address on their tags.
Training is a breeze with the easy-on, easy-off design of the 3/4″ Quick Snap Mini Bungee Collar, coupled with the convenience of color-coded remote control for multiple dogs. Finally, the waterproof and secure IPX8 AirTag holder takes the worry out of losing tags during aquatic escapades. It’s a comprehensive approach, blending style and functionality for a well-rounded canine care strategy.
Great Danes are giant breed dogs and if you’ve spent any time around them, you know they are both “Gentle Giant” and “Giant train-wreck!” If you know, you know. Here are 5 obedience commands every Great Dane should know.
Today’s post is part tongue-in-cheek, part reality, and 100% necessary if you live with a dog that is larger than life!
Great Dane Nicknames
Because living with a giant-breed dog has its moments, many people lovingly find themselves degrading their dog’s names into a series of nicknames.
Beau = Bozo
Moose – Mooove it
Duke – Doofus Face
Bella – Big Bella
Wren – Wreck it Wren
And so on. Us Dane owners mean well, we really do! So in order to avoid shouting a constant stream of frustrated expletives, it’s important that our big dogs are well-trained. Here are my 5 top obedience commands all Great Dane dogs should know.
Get Out of There!
Remember, Great Danes are NOSY. They want to know what is going on, why it’s happening, and how they can help.
They will slam open doors, stick half their body into the open fridge, jump into the car (hopeful for a ride somewhere), and be the first ones to greet your guests.
That’s why teaching a solid “OUT” or “WALK AWAY” command to your Great Dane is so important.
“OUT” or “WALK AWAY” means, “get the flip out of there“.
Keep in mind that some people use the term “OUT” to command a dog to drop something or stop in bite work sports, so if that’s you, choose a different word.
By using a calm voice, you can help keep Bozo or Jackass from getting into places they shouldn’t – like the neighbor’s trash cans.
How to teach this:
With your dog on a leash, encourage them to explore something interesting and novel such as a box or toy.
Then say “WALK AWAY” and apply a small amount of leash tension. As soon as your dog turns towards you, say YES and then toss a few treats on the ground. The treats should be behind you so that your dog has to literally walk away from the object to get to them.
Repeat this several times, then practice again another time or day. With time and practice, your Great Dane will understand the command and you’ll be able to give it when needed. For example, when Doofus Face is nosing into the bathroom while you are taking a shower.
Get Off of That!
Jumping is for trampoline parks, and coffee tables are for…coffee.
The “OFF” command literally means “get off”. That could mean anything from “Get off of our guests” and “stop jumping” to “get off of the back of the couch!” or “why are you on the table, again!”.
Many a jumping Great Dane has landed a human in the ER with bumps, bruises, and breaks. Not to mention the fact these so-called “majestic” creatures are nothing more than giant, clumsy cats.
They believe they fit on laps, love to give kisses, and are likely to have no hesitation about getting on top of crates, tables, or counters.
Great Danes do NOT KNOW HOW BIG THEY ARE.
I repeat. They have no clue and they don’t care, either.
You have to teach OFF. For Great Danes, this particular obedience command is more important than “SIT”. Prove me wrong! If you are ready to learn how to train a great dane not to jump, get on top of things, or hop the fence, read on.
How to teach this:
The trick with this particular command is that to truly practice it, your dog may have to be doing something we don’t want them doing. However, because we don’t want Big Bella practicing the behavior of sitting on top of the counters, it’s best to avoid that situation.
You can replicate it, however, with a towel.
Keep your dog on a leash. Put a towel on the ground and ask your dog to be on it (it’s helpful if your dog knows the “PLACE” command, which we cover below).
Say “OFF” and toss a treat away from the towel. If your dog won’t leave the towel, add a little leash pressure as a tactile communication.
Rinse and repeat. Several times, because dogs need repetition!
With time, you’ll be able to apply the “OFF” obedience command to several things (for example, jumping on a guest or the fence, which should be first practiced while your dog is on a leash. As soon as your dog goes to jump, say “OFF” and toss a treat away from the person or thing that they are jumping on).
Quit Pulling, We’re Not in a Sled Race!
Great Danes that pull, lunge, or display reactivity on a leash are actually pretty dangerous animals. I’m not talking dangerous like a shark, I’m talking dangerous like a FREIGHT TRAIN.
Yes, even sweet Moose, who wouldn’t hurt a fly, can take you for a ride if he sees a squirrel he wants!
Enter the following commands “HEEL”, “WITH ME”, “EASY”, “TOUCH”, and “LOOK”.
I know what you are saying here. “But Hello Danes people, that’s 5 commands for just this one thing!!!”
Hear me out. All of those sub-commands are how you will be able to safely and gently control a young, powerful, 140 lb intact male dog on a loose leash. But they have to be taught.
Heel – Walk neatly by my side
With Me – Walk nicely near me
Easy – Cool your jets
Touch – Touch your nose to my palm
Look – Make eye contact with me
How to teach this:
Because this is SUCH a broad topic, here are some of our favorite articles. There are many theories out there on how to control a Great Dane; we wouldn’t be Hello Danes if we didn’t share our favorites (and our gripes, too).
As before, good training uses a lot of treats. Here are some of our dog’s favorites:
Stay Put!
Sometimes we want our Great Danes to walk by our side. Occasionally, we may even welcome them throwing their entire bodies onto our laps or jumping up onto our shoulders for loving. Other times, we want to watch them run and zoomie all over the place.
That is, of course, until they become an elephant in an antique store.
To put this bluntly, there are times when you just need Wreck-it-Wren to stay in one place. Stop moving, stop knocking things over, stop stepping on toes, stop begging at the dinner table, stop rushing the door when guests enter the home…shall I go on?
Enter the “PLACE” command. Think of it like your dog’s charging device. Occasionally, they need to go back on their chargers to rest and stay out of your way.
How to Teach This
Use a mat, towel, elevated cot, or dog bed.
Throw a treat on the mat and say “PLACE”. Your dog will go onto the mat, at which point you will also praise your dog. Then say “FREE” and toss a treat off of the mat.
Gradually add time between your “PLACE” and “FREE” commands, and with practice, you’ll even be able to walk away. Start by taking one step back, then 5, then 10, and so on until you can go out of sight, open the front door, or eat a meal and have your dog stay on the mat until you say the magic word (FREE).
You don’t need to use corrections, pressure, or frustration to teach this! Just be patient and take baby steps.
Hey You, Get Back Here!
I don’t know about you, but I don’t want my giant freight train of a dog running amok off-leash and refusing to come when called.
Don’t believe me? Here is my list of ways that people sabotage their dog’s recall before they even get started. For fun, give yourself one point for every failure:
Allowing a dog off-leash that isn’t 100% reliable off-leash
Scolding a dog who ran off, when they finally do return
Use the long line and the treats to teach and reward recall (“COME”) several times in several different places. Your dog should be able to come back for a treat, praise, or fun game from 1 foot away or 20 feet away in several environments.
Now, if you did an OOOPS and scolded your dog, even once, for ignoring the word “COME”, I suggest changing that word to something that you can build a fresh positive association with. Examples include “HERE” or “JOIN ME”.
Coming back should ALWAYS be a party and a good time.
At that point, you can layer in an E-Collar, which uses gentle muscle stimulation to replace leash pressure (making it an exceptional backup device for off-leash exploration anywhere you go).
When I met my friend Natalie (we have littermates and started this blog together), I was a noisy card-carrying member of the ‘force-free’ dog training club. Both of us were anti-Purina and hated ‘big kibble’, too. I disliked breeders and believed only in rescue. Prong collars and E-Collars? NEVER.
Together, we wanted our blog to be rooted in ethics, not to mention current research, science, and methods.
What surprised me was learning just how much my mind began to change as I researched and shared information from legitimate scientific sources. The more studies I read and the more I learned, the farther I strayed from those original ideas I had about training, food, and breeding.
I have since revoked my membership to the force-free, kibble-hating, breeder-hating dog club.
As a science-backed blogger and dog advocate, here are 5 CONTROVERSIAL ways I raise my Danes. From nutrition to training, to E-Collars, I’m sharing it all!
We Don’t Rest After Meals
In the Great Dane community, it’s long been cited that resting before or after meals would prevent bloat.
(Bloat is a deadly condition in large and giant breed dogs where their stomach fills up with gas, fluid, or air. If the stomach flips, the prognosis is grim. This condition is often sudden and may result in death, quickly. There is no known trigger. However, there are known risk factors including genetics, unstable temperaments, and poor gut health).
However, during THIS STUDY at Tufts University, researchers found absolutely no correlation between exercise and bloat. The study indicated that most cases of bloat happen to dogs that are resting, not moving!
There was no correlation of bloat risk to exercise before or after eating, as most dogs bloated in the middle of the night with an empty, gas-filled stomach.
Tufts University Bloat Study
This is not to say that rest will kill a Great Dane. But we need to stop villifying movement and food, too.
There has never been a single study proving that movement caused bloat in dogs or that rest was a legitimate way to keep it from happening. As a matter of fact, bloat rates have increased dramatically in the last 30+ years despite ‘resting’ being cited as a preventative.
I hate to break it to you, but it’s not working.
While it may be smart to take it easy after meals to prevent indigestion or stretching the stomach ligaments out (which CAN lead to an increased risk of bloat over time), movement itself is not likely to be a trigger.
I don’t believe in the false sense of security that this old-school, outdated advice provides.
I Use a Prong Collar
Prong collars look awful. They are metal and pokey, which makes people assume that they work by being extremely painful.
Here is the actual reality:
A properly fit, high-quality Herm Sprenger prong collar is less aversive, less frustrating, and more humane than a front clip harness, “Gentle Leader”, or never getting to go out because of dangerous pulling and lunging behavior.
Why is this? Prong collars are built to distribute pressure evenly around the neck. This pressure does not hurt or pinch, but it is uncomfortable.
Coincidentally, the pressure from front-clip “no-pull” harnesses and “gentle leaders” is uncomfortable too. That’s why they work. The difference here is that the prong collar doesn’t rely on restricting movement.
“No-Pull” harnesses restrict shoulder movement and alter the dog’s gait, causing potential damage and pain to the front assembly and joints. “Gentle Leader” type head collars restrict neck and head movement and can potentially damage the eyes, nose, jaw, and spine.
Watch THIS video on YouTube to learn more. ⬅ One of the best parts about this video is that the dog’s body language immediately improves when the trainer removes the harness from her! The harness was causing suppression of her emotion and behavior; a common problem that people don’t notice or care to admit.
Prong collars do not harm dogs, suppress, or restrict them. The amount of pressure needed to communicate with one can be applied with a single finger. With proper training, the dog learns to remove this pressure by turning back to you for a reward.
The prong collar offers a simple, painless, on-off sensation that solves a LOT of problems for millions of people struggling with their dogs.
Look, these are GIANT breed dogs. Even the most well trained animal is stronger than most humans. Lunging, pulling, and reactivity are dangerous behaviors in Great Danes, and it’s not fair to lock them up for life because we cannot trust them to be polite, calm, and gentle on a leash.
As I mentioned above, I revoked my card to the anti-Purina club. I used to be a rabid hater of all things Purina. As far as I was concerned, Royal Canin was trash, and Hill’s Science Diet? Don’t get me started.
So how did I go from that negative mentality about the ‘Big 5 Foods’ to telling people who feed kibble that those brands are actually among only a small handful of acceptable choices?
All three of my dogs were struggling in some way or another. Chronic loose stools, swollen paws, itching, heat intolerance. Then one of my dogs became very, very sick. She was lethargic, had become weak, had no muscle tone, and had developed some concerning health problems.
My veterinarian implored me to put her on Hill’s Science Diet or Purina, a suggestion that I thought was appalling and gross. I thought, “She is literally dying, why would I put her on that food and make it worse?”
So I took her bloodwork into Chuck & Don’s and asked a pet store employee to look it over and give me advice.
Read that again. I asked a pet store employee, with no qualifications, to tell me how to treat my dog.
He told me to choose a “high-quality” diet from their shelves, and “steer clear of that nasty Hill’s Science Diet trash“.
In telling me this, he validated my own misguided beliefs, and generated sales. ?
It made ME feel good to buy that $90 bag of ‘Holistic Super-Premium” kibble, but it did not make my dog feel good. As a matter of fact, it did nothing for her.
Do you know what did make her feel good and ultimately saved her life? PURINA PRO PLAN.
Within weeks of feeding Purina, she was developing muscle tone again. All of her symptoms reversed completely and her energy level skyrocketed. My other dogs were suddenly thriving, too. It was nothing like I had been told.
Many dog food brands use sneaky tricks and marketing tactics including ‘Ingredient Splitting’ to make you think the food has a higher meat content or is healthier. Everything they say is to get you to make a purchase.
The more ‘holistic, natural, and premium’ the kibble seems, the more likely it is that they are better at marketing than they are at making truly nutritious and balanced food.
READ MORE at the Tufts University Petfoodolgy blog. This is the most scientific, modern source for nutrition information and is run by veterinarians with board certifications in nutrition. One of the veterinary nutritionists is even a consultant for BalanceIt, where you can create safe, balanced homemade food recipes for your dog. Everything they say is backed by actual research, and you won’t find an ad, affiliate link, or financial motivation in sight.
My Dogs are E-Collar Trained
Yup. That’s me. Former “Force-Free” dog training fanatic.
All three of my dogs are now E-Collar trained. The “force-free / R+ / Positive ” dog training community HATES E-Collars, and with good reason.
Too many frustrated people buy cheap shock collars on Amazon and zap the crap out of their unsuspecting, poorly-trained pets. This is not humane and it’s not fair.
E-Collars are different. They first require that the dog has a good foundation in basic positive obedience.
Then, they use a gentle muscle stimulation that is not aversive or painful. This stimulation is often imperceptible to humans and replaces leash pressure. By replacing leash pressure, we can effectively and safely eliminate physical restraint. This is an incredible innovation for giant breed dogs who are strong and powerful!
By eliminating physical restraint, we eliminate the frustration, safety problems, physical power struggles, and potential damage to the head, neck, and shoulders that can be caused by collars, head collars, harnesses, and long lines.
Because I trained my dogs to respond to very low levels of muscle stimulation, they can be off-leash anywhere that it is safe and legal to do so. They don’t have to drag long lines around, I can trust them to be in my front yard, and they would never, ever dream of bolting, jumping a fence, or leaving our property. If they did, the pressure (not shocks! Pressure, like hitting the end of a long leash) from their E-Collar will remind them to turn around.
When they turn around, the pressure is gone; they are 100% in control of their collars and the sensation that comes from them.
Run from any dog trainer who tells you that an E-Collar is always aversive and a harness and life on a long leash are not. They do not understand how behavior science, modern E-Collar training, or how physical restraints of all kinds utilize pressure and punishment in different ways.
Since E-Collar training my dogs, they have more freedom, more choice, and more enrichment than ever before.
I Let My Dogs be Dogs
What does it mean to let a dog be a dog?
It means letting them get dirty. Allowing them to roll in mud pits, dig holes, crawl through the grass, and explore the world around them to their heart’s content.
Letting a dog be a dog means treating them like dogs, not people or children. Giving them boundaries and saying NO to keep them safe, so that I can tell them YES as much as possible.
It means letting them sniff the ground on walks, or better yet, be allowed to run naturally and freely off-leash as much as possible. That off-leash privilege begins with training, lots of boundaries, and yes, an E-Collar.
All three of my dogs have orthopedic issues related to injuries from before I got them. Two are missing legs, one has a very deformed foot. I do not coddle them. They are allowed to run, play, tumble, struggle, fall, and get up again like any other dog. I take them to training classes. We go hiking. We walk. We play.
With Boundaries, of Course…
Educated dog ownership means never humanizing their emotions.
Dogs are not spiteful or jealous or ‘dominant’, they are however often insecure, pushy, or rude and desperately need our guidance and understanding, not our assumptions and judgments.
I have a no-tolerance policy when it comes to teeth, nails, and baths. My dogs get their spa treatments on a regular basis whether they like it or not. This is one place where I don’t let them just ‘be dogs’, because if I did, I would be neglecting needs that aren’t met naturally in the typical suburban home.
We see the veterinarian regularly. I don’t coddle them there but we do make it a good experience – so much so that even my more timid rescue girl will willingly go with the veterinarian and lay down politely for her exams. They step onto the scales because I made it clear that it was not-negotiable.
To some extent, I believe that the ‘force-free’ and ‘fear-free’ movement is harmful. Dogs who never face stress don’t learn to cope with it either, and it’s not uncommon for frustration, reactivity and fear to increase with those methods.
As a reformed ‘force-free’ person, I now realize just how much science is cherry picked to fit that belief system.
Dogs are not babies. We don’t have to coddle them or remove every single stress from their lives. Being isolated and restrained in the name of avoiding all forms of stress is no life for a dog at all. That said, we don’t have to be jerks to them, either! Force and harsh physical handling are not cool. Find some middle ground.
Because I have high expectations of them, they are happier, calmer, friendlier, and stronger as a result!
Bonus: I Keep My Dogs LEAN
If I had a dollar for every person who asked me if my dogs were starving, I’d be rich. They are not starving. They are covered in muscle and have tons of energy. Starving dogs can’t say the same.
We are SO used to seeing overweight dogs, that a healthy-weight dog covered in muscle can appear alarmingly thin. Our perception has been skewed.
Truth time: overweight dogs have shorter lifespans (2 years, on average). They are more likely to suffer from arthritis, joint problems, cancer, heart problems, and complications related to anesthesia, among other things.
Danes are a lean breed. They take forever to mature, too. This photo is of my intact male at around age 2. He still has some filling out to do here, but not in terms of fat! His head, chest, and hips continued to broaden from this point on.
If you want to reduce cancer risk, keep your dog lean! That’s step one.
I really could add a 7th item to this list about spaying and neutering, but I’ll stop here and save it for another day 🙂
Everyone LOVES using Harnesses for Great Danes… well, everyone except for me…
I, personally, cringe when I see a dog harness on Great Danes.
Why, you might ask? Well, you came to the right place to hear my rant about why I hate Great Dane harnesses.
Let’s discuss the common dog harness that both you and your dog love so much (well, at least you do) and determine whether or not this tool is actually right for your dog’s health and well-being.
Harnesses for Great Danes
Of course, you’re a Great Dane owner– you want the best for your Gentle Giant. We all do…
We can’t WAIT to get home from work just to squeeze our big dogs to bits and pieces, spoil them and proceed to spend the better part of the time we have off with them.
So, if you’re using a dog harness, chances are you probably are doing so for one of two reasons:
REASON NUMBER 1: You think the harness is the safest option for your giant breed dog.
REASON NUMBER 2: You are in over your head with yourBIG DOG and cannot keep them from pulling and choking themselves on walks!
Let’s go ahead and discuss both reasons.
Reason #1: You believe a harness is the safest option
So, you did your research on large dogs, you looked for the ‘no pull harness’ with the mesh lining and padded chest which ought to be extraordinarily comfortable for your Great Dane.
You paid extra for that reflective stitching that is sure to keep them safe from oncoming traffic! You even got fast release buckles incase you ever need to get your large dog out of their harness in a pinch.
Your dog’s comfort matters to you- and it shows.
So, did you cross all your T’s and dog all your I’s?
Well, not exactly.
Great Dane harnesses are BELIEVED to be safe for large dogs and their thick necks, big chests and long spines, but….. they aren’t exactly that.
We will talk about why in just a moment. But first, let’s discuss the second reason you may have purchased a dog harness for your Great Dane.
So, you did what Sally in the facebook group told you to do… You purchased an Extra Large dog harness that claims to provide EXTRA CONTROL, has a ‘no pull design’, and the reviews even stated that this extremely high quality harness completely TRANSFORMED their dog’s body overnight, changing the owner from a miserable walk to having better control… IN JUST ONE WALK!
RED FLAG…. PLEASE, see the red flag….
Anyways, continuing onward.
Let’s discuss the fun stuff.
Why are harnesses dangerous for a Great Dane’s neck?
The neck of a Great Dane is as fragile as porcelein and should be treated as such.
Think of it this way, when you’re using that ‘Gentle’ Leader to gain complete control on that nice, brisk walk with your Great Dane, you’re ultimately yanking their neck, whether you think so or not.
Additionally, you may even see the dog visible struggle, stress, and get anxiety from using a head halter. There is always a reason for your dog’s stress! “Harnesses that go around the muzzle, also known as a head halter, can present a unique challenge because few dogs easily adjust to them”, Schade says.
“Most do not enjoy the sensation and fight it by pawing at their nose, rolling on the ground, or rubbing their face on their person’s leg,” she says. “Additionally, if the dog races ahead and is jerked back, it might injure its neck.”
Why is a No-Pull Harness Bad for Great Danes?
Harnesses are a straight up nightmare for Great Danes.
Why? Because…
They restrict the way your dog’s body is designed to move
They create whiplash that is not natural for their skeletal system
First, harnesses restrict the way your dog moves. And if you wake up every single day and restrict your dog’s body from moving in the way it is supposed to move, eventually (and soon) there are going to be issues.
Secondly, using a harness as a means to gain control over your dog on the leash and ‘make them stop pulling’ is inevitably going to make YOU pull on the harness, creating whiplash on their joints.
“I have studied the effect of restrictive harnesses using a well-validated gait analysis system and demonstrated that there are significant alterations in a dog’s gait (both the amount of forward extension of the legs and even the amount of weight borne on the front legs) when wearing the harness, even without a leash attached.” –Christine Zink, DVM, PhD, DACVP, DACVSMR
“As a specialist in canine sports medicine, I have significant concerns about the use of harnesses that wrap around the front of dog’s forelegs, particularly in circumstances like this, where a dog is exercising using a gait that requires forelimb extension”, Zink says.
Why could a harness hurt a dogs chest and shoulders?
The canine body is all connected, just like the human body.
Manipulating the body of a Great Dane with a tool that pulls from their chest or shoulders can cause long term damage, just as it would to a human.
“Front-hook harnesses, on the other hand, can affect a dog’s natural gait and hinder shoulder movement.” Nelson says these particular harnesses may not be a good choice for dogs who engage in athletic activities.
So, not only are front-hook harnesses dangerous for your dog’s health, but they could also hinder their ability to perform certain activities or exercises! Constant nagging or even slight yanking on everyday walks can add up, affecting the ability of your dog to walk in the way their body has designed them to.
“The results of this study demonstrated that wearing a harness affects gait. Interestingly, regardless of the harness type, some dogs were found to be highly reactive to wearing a harness. In fact, even dogs who had been wearing harnesses most of their life and that were thought to be well accustomed to wearing a harness were still found to have significant alterations in gait while wearing a harness, regardless of the type of harness. Overall, wearing a harness was also associated with a longer forelimb stride length, shorter forelimb step length, a greater forelimb total pressure index percentage, and a shorter forelimb gait cycle.”
A dog’s gait is used to define how they move their legs when walking or running. This includes how high they hold their legs, how much weight is put on each leg, and even the pattern in which they move their legs. All of these factors play into how well a dog moves.
As described above, some many harnesses are actually studied in clinical studies and CHANGE the gait of your dog! THAT’S NOT GOOD- INCASE YOU NEED IT SPELLED OUT.
Long term affects of wearing a harness that alters gait
Your dog may seem fine today. They may seem fine tomorrow. But what about in a few years from now, when they are older and not as spry?
Slowly, you will start to notice changes in the way your dog moves. You may not quickly attribute these changes to the harness, but take it from the data and the experts.
Even some of the ‘best harnesses’ that Sally recommends over and over in that Facebook group may just be causing your Great Dane to age much quicker than you hope.
Common risks of Great Dane harnesses
Even what you think might be a ‘good harness’ can have detrimental affects on your dog or Great Dane.
Some of the best harnesses pose threats to our Great Danes. Have a look at some of the risks that Great Dane harnesses could be posing:
Sleeping in ANY item can be a huge owner error and cause serious long-term damage, eg. callouses, sores, traumatic injuries, etc.
Sleeping in a harness is potentially risky because it could get caught on something (like the dog’s crate) and become a choking hazard, Nelson adds. “It can also be uncomfortable for a harness to be on 24/7.”
Using a wet harness that doesn’t dry
Be weary of keeping a wet harness on a dog’s body, especially a leather harness.
In addition, pet parents should not leave a wet harness on their dog for a long period of time, as it can cause skin infection, advises Dr. Katie Grzyb, medical director at One Love Animal Hospital in Brooklyn, New York.
Wet items can create yeast and infection, which may go unnoticed until it’s too late.
Leather is also a breeding ground for bacteria, so keep that in mind if you do choose to use a leather harness.
Signs that your dog may have an infection from their harness include:
Your dog can also develop skin diseases underneath a harness, such as folliculitis and pyoderma.
Folliculitis is an inflammation of the hair follicles, and pyoderma is a bacterial infection of the skin.
“Monitor hidden areas such as armpits and under the chest a few times a week to make sure that the harness is not causing skin irritation from rubbing,” Grzyb adds.
Using Great Dane harnesses can in fact harm their throat and trachea.
ESPECIALLY for dogs with pre-existing throat conditions or breathing problems, it is crucial to not use a front clip adjustable harness. This no pull design can put a significant amount of pressure on your dog’s windpipe, which can cause more coughing and hacking, and irritate an already pre-existing condition.
Buying a harness for Great Danes is not a ‘quick fix’ for training your dog.
You can buy a sturdy harness with high quality materials. You can buy a $200 Great Dane tactical harness, research endlessly the best harnesses for Great Danes… look into durable materials and superior comfort.
It is time to stop making excuses for our dog’s behavior on the leash and start taking actions to make them more successful– without the dangers of a harness.
Driving with dogs can be very scary and extremely dangerous.
Dogs should be contained in the car.
The Center for Pet Safety is the ONLY resource that you should use to verify whether the tool you are looking at has been crash tested and approved to keep your dog safe in the car.
The best harnesses for Great Danes include those that:
Do not limit your dog’s ability to move in their natural gait
Serve a purpose: Working dogs/service dogs wear a harness at times for a specific reason (should still not limit their gait)
Are crash tested and to be worn as a seatbelt
Veterinarian checked and approved for your dog’s specific body
First off, even though I think I have a good grip on dogs and what they need- I usually have found that I don’t.
So, I trust science, data and experts.
Now that you know that- here are the recommendations for the best harness based on safety, health and features.
Best crash tested harnesses
If you’re looking for a crash tested harness, you’re really only given a few options.
In 2011 the Center for Pet Safety conducted a pilot study to investigate the crashworthiness of pet travel harnesses. Based on the findings of that study CPS went on to complete a landmark pet travel harness study in 2013, sponsored by Subaru of America.
The ClickIt Harness by Sleepypod is currently the only (and best) harness on the market for car safety for large/giant breed dogs.
It is crash tested up to 110 lbs (for the XL), secures nicely into your dog’s seatbelt through two leash attachment points (somewhat around the shoulders), and has a reflective material / reflective trim.
The company states that the harness can be worn for working dogs or as a standard harness for leash walking, but we always recommend speaking to your veterinarian regarding your dog’s specific gait.
HELP-EM-UP Harness for Mobility Issues
If you’re like me- you are a Great Dane mama to a pupper with a mobility disease.
My Great Dane has struggled with Wobblers for over 1 year now and I do everything to help her mobility.
There are Great Dane harnesses made for the purpose of being able to help them maintain their mobility through all life stages.
HELP-EM-UP HARNESS CAN HELP YOU PROVIDE MOBILITY
I recommend the Help-em-up Harness which is used for Great Danes (and all other dogs) that struggle with:
Navigating behavior challenges with your Great Dane can feel like a big puzzle to solve! When it comes to training, our beloved dogs might seem like they have a mind of their own. Tackling Great Dane behavior problems like pulling, enthusiastic barking, and acrobatic fence-jumping can be an adventure for owners of these lovable behemoths.
But fear not! While the challenges may seem big, the rewards of overcoming them are even bigger. Let’s journey together to better understand and address the quirks that come with our colossal canine companions, turning potential problems into valuable lessons and shared laughs.
If you are having trouble with your Great Dane or Great Dane puppy, don’t worry – you are not alone!
#1 – My Great Dane Won’t Come When Called
Poor recall is one of the #1 complaints that Great Dane dog owners have about their dog’s behavior!
There are a few things that you can do to improve your dog’s recall and ensure they are a well-behaved off-leash citizen:
Use a long line or leash when first teaching your dog to come
Prevent mistakes! If your dog doesn’t come to you, they shouldn’t be off-leash
Make sure you are calling your dog to you in an excited and happy voice, and NEVER correct your dog for ignoring you.
Reward with high-value treats, praise, play, and affection
Practice in boring areas!
Recall games for Great Danes
These are some of our favorite Great Dane recall games for teaching rock-solid off-leash coming when called behavior!
The Amped Up Recall game: Have somebody hold your Great Dane by their chest or collar. While they are being held, RUN away from them and be super fun. Wave a toy around, whoop, holler, and be exciting! When you are several feet away, turn and say ‘COME!’ and then have the other person release your Great Dane. Your dog will RUN to you (proving that dogs will come to people who are worth coming to). Play this game often.
The slot machine jackpot recall game: Practice recall with high-value treats. Think of yourself like a slot machine. Sometimes, you give one treat. Sometimes you give 3 to 5 treats. Occasionally, you give a JACKPOT! The best jackpots will be a complete surprise and something even higher-value than what has been offered before.
The follow-me game: give your Great Dane a reward for looking at you. Turn your back. When your Great Dane comes to look at you, give another reward. Turn your back and walk a step. Reward again when your dog looks at you. This is a FUN game that involves you eventually being able to turn, walk farther away, zig-zag, and even hide behind things.
Your Great Dane should always WANT to come and find you!
Once your Great Danehas a rock-solid recall in low distraction areas (such as your backyard or on a long leash on a soccer field), it’s time to layer in an E-Collar so you can ditch the leash in places where doing so is safe and legal!
Using an E-Collar to Improve Recall
E-Collars are NOT a magic fix for poor recall! If your Great Dane doesn’t have a good recall in a low distraction area, do not expect an E-Collar to fix the problem.
An E-Collar can replace your long-leash, so that your Great Dane can zoomie, run, climb, swim, sniff, explore, and move naturally. There is nothing more positive than that!
Most Great Danes will benefit greatly from being allowed to exhibit these correct and species-appropriate behaviors.
Sniffing the ground on a long leash is NOT enough!
An E-Collar uses muscle stimulation that is non-aversive and works the same way that your cell phone does.
Your cell phone ringing does not hurt you, punish you, or scare you BUT it does make you take action. This is how modern E-Collars work for coming when called.
By replacing the feeling of a harness, collar, and pressure from a leash with virtual pressure, our Great Danes can be safely off-leash. This is especially true once they are trained to also ignore dogs and people.
Many Great Danes who are reactive towards dogs and people on a leash will be completely non-reactive when e-collar trained.
The truth is that leashes are restrictive and cause anxiety for many dogs.
E-Collars allow dogs to move naturally and because they are no longer ‘trapped’, they feel safe.
Another major plus about E-Collars is that they are the ONLY tool that uses no physical restraint. For giant breed dogs like Great Danes, this is an incredible benefit to their orthopedic health.
#2-How do I stop my Great Dane from Counter Surfing?
This is a hard one because it’s a natural thing for dogs to do! After all, counters are full of yummy smells and things to investigate.
The best way to stop your Great Dane dog from counter surfing is to make the counter a place they cannot access.
If this isn’t possible or practical, you’ll need to be diligent about teaching your dog that the counter is off-limits.
The easiest way to do this is to use a cue like “leave it” or “off”. As soon as your Great Dane jumps on the counter, say the cue and give them a treat for getting down.
Because counter surfing is also a very dangerous behavior (for example, if they were to get grapes or cooked chicken bones), it’s a behavior we feel very comfortable advising corrections on.
It must NEVER be acceptable for your Great Dane to steal food from the counter!
These corrections can include a sharp NO, ‘AH-AH’, clapping your hands, stomping the floor, leash pops, or even sticky tape on the counter (which sticks to their paws).
#3 – How do I stop my Great Dane from Pulling?
Leash pulling is a common and dangerous problem with Great Danes that may require professional help. Most Danes pull because doing so is fun and rewarding, and gets them where they want to go.
As your Great Dane understands this fun game, start adding distance and zig-zags.
Clip a leash to a wide, flat martingale collarand continue this game of checking in, watching, engaging, and walking next to you with rewards and praise.
Once your Great Dane is able to do this next to you in a low distraction environment, we recommend layering in a Herm Sprenger prong collar.
Teach your Great Dane that gentle pressure from the collar (which does not stab or pinch!) means to turn and engage with you. Reward this behavior with praise and rewards
Prong Collar Training
Here is a great video on how to properly introduce a prong collar to your Great Dane!
#4 – My Great Dane Keeps Digging Holes
It can be a huge problem if your Great Dane digs holes! Not only does this make a mess of your beautiful yard, but then they are dragging mud, dirt, and all the parasites that come with it into your home.
Mud and digging, in general, are actually very good for dogs! It’s natural for them to want to dig and it’s a great way for your Great Dane dog to relieve boredom, stress, and pent-up energy.
The key is to provide your Great Dane with an appropriate outlet for this behavior. If they are left alone with nothing to do, of course, they are going to take it out on your lawn! Many behavioral problems are actually the result of plain old boredom.
You can teach your Great Dane to only dig in one area of the yard by using positive reinforcement and being consistent with redirection.
If the digging absolutely must stop, you need to replace it with another form of enrichment. Off-leash exploration, puzzle toys, and scent tracking are fantastic substitutes.
#5-My Great Dane is Destroying My House
You know what they say, right? If you don’t give your Great Dane a job to do, they will give themselves a job. You will NOT like their choice of employment!
Bored and anxious Great Danes will destroy your house. Literally.
It’s not uncommon for us to hear from frantic Great Dane owners whose dog has just eaten an entire couch, destroyed drywall, or chewed through electrical wires.
The good news is that this behavior is 100% preventable with crate training, the right amount of exercise, mental stimulation, and training.
Step one requires that you prevent this behavior. Crate training 101 is a fantastic place to start!
Following that, a drastic increase in positive training and daily enrichment will make a huge difference.
Gentle exercise such as playing seek games or FitPaws
Socialize and train in a new environment: the brewery, a public park, or if your dog is confident and trained, a dog-friendly store such as Petsmart or Home Depot (call in advance to confirm)
What can I do to Stop Separation Anxiety?
Unfortunately, many Great Danes suffer from separation anxiety.
This can manifest in a number of ways, such as destructive behaviors, excessive barking or howling, pacing, panting, and more.
The key to helping your dog with separation anxiety is to make sure that they ultimately feel safe when they can’t see you.
This can mean addressing the anxiety from multiple angles, not just when you are away! Exercise, obedience, puzzles, and trick training sessions are great confidence builders for Great Danes.
You can also help build your dog’s confidence by exposing them to short periods of time away from you, and by teaching them that good things happen when you leave.
For some dogs, this may mean starting with only a 30-second gap and working up from there. For others, it may mean building up to longer periods of time by using a dog sitter or daycare.
The most important thing is to go at your dog’s pace and not to push them too hard, too fast. If you do, you will only end up making the anxiety worse.
It will be helpful to use a Kong stuffed with their favorite treats, or to buy a puzzle toy such as the Kong Wobbler.
The FURBO camera is another great way to interact with your Great Dane when you are not home, as it allows you to talk to them, see them, and give them a treat, all virtually!
You can also help your dog feel more secure by providing them with a lot of novel enrichment and training.
#6-How can I Stop my Great Dane from Jumping?
Jumping is a dangerous behavior that requires proper training from a young age, if possible. If you want your Great Dane to be a great family dog and be gentle around other dogs, the jumping must be addressed.
While I tend to be fairly positive in how I train my dogs, I will admit that I have absolutely had a moment with giant puppies that jumped.
My 5-month-old male Great Dane puppy caught me off guard one day, jumped up, and scraped my eye with his huge paw. Without even thinking I stepped into him and then shouted at him with a very loud, sharp tone.
I felt so bad after that, but it was a gut reaction. Thankfully, he’s never done it again! I can’t deny that this worked. However, it’s not the recommended approach for a number of reasons.
To correctly address this behavior, you need two pieces:
Reinforce good behavior with attention, praise, treats, and play. When working with an excitable puppy, calmness is key. It’s a great idea to have high-value treats on hand to reward your Great Dane pup.
Redirect attention away from the jumping and towards something else, such as sitting or lying down. This can be done with a cue such as ‘sit’ or ‘down’.
The second piece involves correcting the behavior. If teaching the alternate behavior isn’t enough, it’s fair to then implement a correction.
No-jump corrections might look like this, depending on the individual dog. Adult Great Danes will take more work, as they have already established a bad habit.
Turn your back and walk away (jumping = loss of attention)
Sharp leash pop, followed by reward when the Great Dane has all paws on the floor
Saying ‘uh-oh’ and removing your leashed dog to another room when they jump
Walking into the dog when they jump up
We do not recommend using physical force or shoving your dog with a knee or a hand. Not only can this be damaging, but it’s also very confusing!
Some dogs see this gesture as a form of roughhousing and will become more excited and jumpy.
Many dog owners find that working with a dog trainer helps them learn more about the timing of rewards and corrections, so that everybody can move on from it!
#7-My Great Dane Growls Over Food & Toys
Resource guarding is normal behavior that can be seen in any animal, including humans. It’s when an animal or even a puppy feels the need to protect a valuable resource, such as food, toys, or even you!
Dogs who guard resources may do so because they feel like they don’t have enough, or because they are afraid of losing what they have. It has nothing to do with dominance. It can be, however, genetic.
Resource guarding is a dangerous behavior, especially for a Great Dane!
Many cases of resource guarding are made worse by humans who unfairly fuss, punish, correct and take things from their dogs to ‘teach them who is boss’.
The best way to address resource guarding is with behavior modification and training, instead. This can be a long process, but it’s worth it to have a dog who feels confident around you and isn’t afraid of losing its things.
We recommend the book MINE by Jean Donaldson, and seek a professional trainer’s advice if you have a Great Dane that is resource guarding.
#8 – My Great Dane is Reactive
Reactivity is different than aggression. A reactive dog is one that over-stimulates easily and has a low threshold for arousal.
This can be due to genetics, environment, poor socialization, frustration, anxiety, or a combination of several factors.
Dogs who are reactive may lunge, bark, growl, snap, or bite when they feel overwhelmed. Other forms of reactivity include whining, fussing, and rolling over (often mistaken as ‘submission’).
It’s important to remember that these behaviors don’t necessarily mean that your Great Dane is aggressive and wishes to harm!
Lower arousal and frustration levels with thoughtful management, desensitize and counter-condition to trigger stimuli, provide outlets for your dog’s energy, and seek professional help if needed.
Many people believe that their Great Dane is being protective when really, their Great Dane is being reactive.
Reactive dogs can easily go over the threshold and will struggle to focus, listen, or settle. These dogs are insecure and are protecting themselves, not necessarily the home or the people.
Protective dogs, on the other hand, will alert, but can quickly become calm and confident on command, welcoming people into the home.
How do I Help my Aggressive Great Dane
Having an aggressive Great Dane dog can be frustrating and heartbreaking. It requires dedication, resources, and time that many owners just don’t have.
Many rescues cannot accept aggressive dogs because it requires them to have strict protocols, highly trained volunteers, and enhanced insurance coverage.
The different types of aggression
There are two types of aggression, passive and active.
Passive aggression is characterized by a dog who is growling, baring its teeth, or stiffening its body in order to make itself look bigger. This type of aggression is often seen in dogs who are guarding something, such as food or a toy.
Active aggression is characterized by biting or snapping. This type of aggression is dangerous and can result in injuries.
If a dog is willing to injure you or another dog, they are a liability and will require professional training to address behavioral problems and aggressive tendencies.
Great Dane aggression can be caused by a number of things, including:
Fear
Anxiety
Health problems, including thyroid disorders, UTI, pain, cancer, or otherwise, which can cause sudden aggression for no apparent reason
Painful orthopedic conditions
Genetics
Neurological disorders
Fear aggression is the most common type of aggression in Great Danes. For normally gentle dogs that become suddenly aggressive, a thorough veterinary check is warranted to rule out health problems.
Giant breeds should never display aggressive behaviors, and if they do, they are more dangerous than a small dog might be. This breed has large, powerful jaws and most Great Danes are stronger than many humans.
Contrary to popular belief, Great Danes are not supposed to be an aggressive breed. They are friendly dogs that make excellent family members.
Aggressive behavior always has an underlying root cause that must be addressed.
How to manage Great Dane aggression
Because Great Danes are such big dogs, it’s important that you manage aggression and prevent injury.
Crate training and muzzle training are important steps you can take toward keeping your Great Dane and others safe!
Do not expose your aggressive Great Dane dog to situations that trigger reactions, especially if your dog is explosive and making contact with his teeth.
Aggressive behavior is embarrassing and dangerous. This means no doggy parks, off-leash hiking, or other socialization opportunities.
You’ll need to provide plenty of structure and rules for your Great Dane so that he knows what is expected of him. This may include crate training, obedience training, and positive behavior modification.
Avoid using physical force and harsh handling on your Great Dane, which can make aggression worse. We recommend reaching out to an IABC Accredited dog trainer or a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist.
A touchy subject: behavioral euthanasia
Sometimes Great Danes just aren’t able to cope with the world, and they will respond with aggression to protect themselves.
Occasionally, tough decisions have to be made.
Behavioral euthanasia is reserved for Great Danes who experience significant and dangerous levels of aggression, reactivity, and fear that are not helped with training, behavior modification, management, and medication.
For some Great Danes and some owners, this is truly the most humane choice. It should not be taken lightly, nor should it be harshly judged. Most veterinarians will not euthanize healthy dogs.
A dog that is severely aggressive is likely suffering.
What causes Great Dane Behavior Problems?
If your Great Dane is out of control, many factors may be at play.
It rarely if ever has to do with ‘dominance’ or ‘stubborn’ behavior!
Here are some common causes of behavioral problems in Great Danes, plus information on correcting them.
Weak genetics
Temperament and behavior have a strong relationship to genetics.
If your dog’s parents were timid, snappy, unpredictable, anxious, pushy, fearful, or aggressive there is a good chance that your Great Dane will inherit some of those traits.
The final temperament and personality of a puppy is influenced by many factors, but this is perhaps the most important one.
Ideally, a Great Dane puppy should be friendly, social, and confident.
Poor socialization
Good breeders begin socialization at 3 days of age, through programs called ENS and Puppy Culture. If a breeder isn’t doing these things with their litter of Great Dane puppies, they may not be as dedicated or diligent as they should be.
Once your Great Dane puppy is home, the rest is up to you!
Poorly socialized dogs are more prone to anxiety, fearfulness, and aggression. Anxiety in Great Danes can be difficult to deal with and should be addressed as young as possible.
It’s important to start teaching and socialization on day one. Reward good behavior, confidence, and engagement with you with treats, praise, play, and fun!
Socialization should be positive and include exposure to a variety of sights, sounds, textures, experiences, things, and people.
Inadequate Enrichment & Exercise
Great Danes can have a surprising amount of energy – they were originally bred as hunting dogs, after all!
If you don’t give your Great Dane enough outlets for their energy, they may become destructive or even aggressive.
A short walk on pavement, a few toys, another dog, and a yard are rarely enough, especially for Danes that are left home all day.
We recommend that Great Danes receive plenty of off-leash time to move freely on varied terrain, in addition to basic obedience, scent work, and food puzzles to keep their mind busy.
Bad training methods and techniques
Unfortunately, bad techniques can actually cause and worsen behavior problems such as aggressive behavior, destruction, reactivity, and anxiety.
These things include:
Harsh punishment
Alpha/Dominance, including intimidation and ‘pack leader’
Forceful and punitive use of training tools of any kind
Restrictive methods that rely heavily on physical restraint, isolation, and constant micro-management
A lack of consistency and boundaries
Expecting too much
Not using enough positive reinforcement
Failure to address medical problems
When looking for a dog trainer for your Great Dane or Great Dane puppy, ask them three questions:
a. Are you licensed and insured? Do you have any certifications?
b. What do you do when my dog does something right?
c. What do you do when my dog does something wrong?
What is the Best Method for Training Great Danes?
The best method for training Great Danes is one that uses a lot of positivity and fun and is based on a strong foundation of trust, respect, and teamwork.
A thoughtful training program that includes a lot of YES with rewards paired with the occasional NO is incredibly effective.
We advocate for the use of positive reinforcement paired with modern tools such as E-Collars and prong collars.
Giant breed dogs should be diligently trained and socialized for their safety and the safety of those around them. They are never fully trained, though! Great Dane training should be ongoing, for life.
An out-of-control Great Dane dog wearing a harness or refusing to come when called is a dangerous animal.
Ideally, Great Dane puppies start training as soon as possible. But it’s never too late!
Great Danes make wonderful family pets for people who are willing to put the time into teaching, guiding, rewarding, and building a relationship with them.
We recommend working with a professional trainer, even if you think you know everything! There is always something new to learn, especially when it comes to handling large dogs.
Balanced Training vs. Positive Training
“Positive only” training relies heavily on behavioral management to prevent bad behavior, which can be frustrating to dogs and owners.
Management includes the use of physical restraint, crates, gates, and isolation from experiences, people, and dogs while a dog is learning without error. The goal with ‘positive’ or ‘force-free’ training is to never have to say ‘no’.
The ‘force-free’ method markets front-clip harnesses and head collars as ‘gentle’. We find these tools to be aversive, punishing, and potentially damaging to Great Danes orthopedic health.
We believe that modern balanced training is the most humane, fun, and positive way to train your gentle giants!
All exceptional “balanced” trainers use a lot of positive reinforcement and avoid harsh punishments, intimidation, pain, and fear. Balanced training is positive training with a more holistic approach to correcting dangerous or incorrect behaviors.
You should never see your Danes tail tucked, ears back, or lip licking during training; these are behaviors that are associated with fear, frustration, and anxiety.
Many people believe that Great Danes are stubborn, spiteful, and defiant. It can lead to questions about whether or not Great Danes are hard to train, especially as they are so large and can easily be destructive or dangerous.
In this blog post, we will discuss some tips for training your Great Dane puppy or adult dog. We’ll also cover some common behavior issues that Great Danes can have and how to deal with them. We are going to show you that training Great Danes is EASY!
Are Great Danes Hard to Train?
We believe that it’s not that Great Danes are hard to train, it’s that they are often misunderstood.
People see their large size and think that they need to be handled with extreme and forceful techniques. In reality, Great Danes are gentle giants.
They are loving, loyal, and affectionate dogs that just want to please their owners.
The training process should be fun. Basic commands are super easy to teach using positive reinforcement, and it’s never too late to start training important commands the right way!
Great Danes are huge dogs, so when there are training problems, they feel much, much bigger by comparison to other dogs.
When a Great Dane jumps, chews things up or pulls on the leash they are a danger to themselves and to others. Smaller dogs often get by with some of these things, where as giants really cannot.
Common Dane training problems include:
Jumping
Mouthing/Nipping
Barking
Destructive Chewing
Separation Anxiety
Pulling on the Leash
Reactivity towards people and dogs
Poor recall (not coming when called)
All of these things are fixed with diligent attention to rules, boundaries, management, and training; but it takes time.
Great Danes are not hard to train, but they DO require proper behavior management and obedience training. We’re providing more tips on this for you below!
Are Great Danes good for Beginners?
We believe that Great Danes can make excellent family pets and incredible dogs for many people.
The most common reasons why Great Danes are often surrendered to rescue include:
Aggression, which is largely related to genetics and poor socialization
Out-of-control behavior, which is related to poor socialization, poor enrichment, poor handling, and poor training
Grew too large, which is related primarily to a lack of education about Great Danes and their size
Plays too rough with kids, which is related to poor socialization and training, as above
All of those things require new Great Dane owners to be well educated on the breed’s size, temperament, and training requirements as well as how to find an ethical preservation breeder.
We believe that the answer is YES, but where most people fail is that they:
a. Use a heavy-handed punishment-based training approach
b. Don’t correctly manage or handle their dog’s behavior, social needs, and enrichment requirements
b. Don’t realize how many times a dog has to be rewarded for something, and how many times and places it needs to be practiced during training sessions before the skill becomes automatic
We’re going to offer some tips on Great Dane training below, but if you need more help, please consider hiring a certified professional dog trainer in your area.
Positive reinforcement is the process of rewarding a dog with a treat, favorite toy, play, affection, or praise.
Doing so increases the chance that a dog will repeat good behavior!
All new behaviors should be taught this way, including sit, down, heel, come, leave it, wait, touch, and place.
You must practice and reward these skills many times in many different places!
Some people are so impressed that their Great Dane puppy will sit in the kitchen for them every time. They are later shocked, however, when their puppy will not sit on command anywhere else.
Dogs don’t generalize well. They have to learn that sit means sit here, sit there, sit anywhere when asked. It’s imperative that you practice this in different places with lots of distractions.
Everyday life is much more complex than what happens in your living room.
Once they have their lightbulb moment, you are home free and can add additional layers of difficulty, including other commands, and phase out the treats to use only verbal praise!
We recommend pairing positive reinforcement with gentle, modern balanced training.
Balanced training is when you reward your dog for behaviors that you want them to repeat, and then if needed you either manage (prevent) or correct behaviors that you do not want them to repeat.
Some examples of this include:
-Leash walking: you would reward your dog for walking calmly by your side, and then manage or correct them if they pull ahead or lag behind
-Jumping up: you would reward your dog for having all four feet on the ground, and by keeping your dog on a leash when they tend to jump, you can manage and correct the behavior
-Chasing kids: you would reward your dog for calm behavior around kids, and then manage or correct the behavior if they start to chase
-Digging: you would reward your dog for playing near digging spots without digging, and then manage the behavior or balance it by providing an appropriate outlet such as a sandbox or digging pit
Remember that management is not a punishment, but overuse of restrictions and isolation is unfair to your dog.
Corrections don’t have to be harsh, forceful, scary, or painful and can bridge the gap between freedom and ongoing restraint for your dog.
We believe that the best training tools you can use meet the following guidelines:
Work primarily as a form of communication, not a form of physical restraint
Do not obstruct the way a dog moves its shoulders, head, feet, or neck
Result in dogs gaining more freedom and more enrichment opportunities, without long-haul ongoing processes that may be unreliable or frustrating in the long run
Are high quality and work without months of conditioning
Will allow Great Danes to be off-leash and free of restraint as much as possible
For example, no-pull harnesses and Gentle Leaders are aversive tools that rely on physical restraint. They work by altering the dog’s natural movement and restricting forward momentum through physical force. Head collars in particular tend to be distressing and aversive to dogs, even when introduced slowly.
These tools are unfortunately marketed as ‘positive’ and ‘gentle’. However, if you look at the actual mechanics and science of it, they are anything but that.
We are a science-based blog, so when people claim that head collars and harnesses are not aversive, we have questions about their motivations and their scientific thought process!
Keep in mind that Great Danes are GIANT breed dogs. They can and will pull, lunge, and take control of the leash. A Great Dane in a harness can easily become dangerous.
We recommend the use of positive reinforcement, paired with flat collars and a long leash or off-leash work to teach all skills. Engagement and rewards are key!
Following that, the use of a positively implemented, correctly fit prong collar (which uses pressure, not pinching or stabbing) for leash walking is a surprisingly humane and appropriate way to keep your Great Dane safe and be able to go places together without months of incremental ‘positive only’ training or restrictive nylon tools.
Additionally, the use of modern E-Collars, which use gentle muscle stimulation to replace leash pressure, is our favorite go-to training tool for Great Danes.
E-Collars are the ONLY tool that uses absolutely no physical touch or restraint. The sensation the dog feels is more gentle than the pressure from any head collar or harness; it does not shock or punish the dog.
All Great Danes should be taught the following commands. Keep training sessions short, exciting, and rewarding!
To avoid giving too many treats, keep the rewards small and frequent. Your dog doesn’t need a WHOLE treat for each behavior, they just need a tiny bite.
With Great Dane puppies, you have an incredible opportunity to start training at an early age. Great Dane puppies are intelligent dogs and will respond well to treats, praise, play, and attention.
Great Danes are in fact easy to train, so long as you are willing to put the time in!
PRO TIP: most bad behavior is a direct result of poor training, incorrect socialization, inadequate enrichment, and handling or management issues. It’s rarely because a dog is ‘stubborn, willful or defiant’.
The biggest mistake people make when they crate train their Dane puppies is letting them scream, cry and panic inconsolably. This is a bad training technique that literally encourages the puppy to practice the wrong behavior and emotions.
Instead, use a modern training method that makes the crate a fun, safe, and rewarding space.
This may mean starting slow and introducing the crate over several days. Feed meals inside of the crate, and play games where your puppy can learn the basic commands of ‘FREE’ and ‘CRATE UP’!
By making ‘crate up’ and ‘free’ into a game or fun trick, your puppy will be crate trained in no time at all.
Teach your Great Dane to love their crate, and it will be a safe place for them for years to come.
Socialization is one of the most important things you can do for your Great Dane puppy.
Start socialization early, and continue throughout the puppy’s life. Socialization is how your puppy learns to be comfortable around people, other animals, new environments, and different sounds and situations.
A well-socialized dog is a happy dog! The best way to socialize your Dane puppy is to expose them to as many new people, places, and things as possible. But, do NOT scare them. If they are fearful, this exposure can actually make things worse.
Every experience must end on a positive note. The more positive experiences they have, the more confident and well-rounded they will be!
Avoid having constant tension on the leash; this mild pressure will result in poor socialization experiences.
Our Great Dane puppy socialization guide will tell you everything you need to know!
We recommend starting puppy socialization and 101 obedience classes by 10-12 weeks of age.
Puppy classes are an excellent way to train and socialize your Dane. They will give them a solid foundation of obedience commands that will result in good behavior.
Classes are also a great way to meet other dog owners in your area, receive feedback on your technique, and work with your dog around distractions.
If you only ever train your dog inside of your house, don’t be shocked when they ignore your commands outside of the house!
Most trainers offer intermediate and advanced obedience classes as well. Don’t stop at puppy classes! As your Dane grows, so should their education.
Once your puppy has advanced, you may even consider taking classes for fitness or scent work. Fun tricks can be built upon and used to obtain AKC trick dog titles as well!
Sometimes, group classes aren’t the best option. If you have a dog with special needs, or if you’re looking for more personalized attention, private training may be the way to go.
With private training, you can work one-on-one with a trainer to address specific training goals. This type of training is great for dogs who are shy, fearful, or aggressive.
The bottom line is this: if you want a well-trained dog, you need to put in the time and effort!
Training takes patience, consistency, and commitment.
We’re going to provide some of our favorite Great Dane training tips below!
Having a well-trained, well-socialized Great Dane is an absolute joy. The following basic commands are easy to master if you break them down and start at a level where your dog can learn.
Loose leash walking
We recommend a two-step process for teaching loose leash skills for dogs that pull, lunge, and drag you down the street.
Step One
Practice off-leash in your living room. Use high-value rewards (small bites!) to reward your dog for taking steps next to your left hip and looking at you as you walk together, turn corners, and navigate obstacles.
Gradually increase the difficulty, distance, and distractions. Once your dog can take 10 steps, clip a loose leash onto a flat collar and keep practicing both indoors and out in low-distraction environments.
Step Two
Once your dog is happily following you around off-leash or on a loose leash, it’s time to add a prong collar.
A correctly fit prong collar will not hurt your dog and will give you the ability to keep your dog safe while walking in high-traffic areas or around other dogs.
You must first teach your dog how to respond to the pressure from the collar. Here is an excellent video on this training technique!
Remember to use reinforcement (praise, treats, and toys) when your dog is walking politely on a leash!
How to choose the best prong collar for your Great Dane.
We recommend first installing an amazing recall. This means rewarding your dog with treats, toys, and praise when they come to you.
Offer a cue word or phrase such as “here” or “come” while your dog is not paying attention to you, then immediately reward them when they turn their head towards you.
Do this in short training sessions throughout the day, and gradually increase the distance and distractions. Never scold your dog for blowing you off or not coming when called!
Once your dog has a good recall, it’s time to layer in the E-Collar so they can safely be off-leash.
Polite Social Skills
Great Danes MUST have polite social skills with people and dogs. It is dangerous for them to be humping, jumping, mouthing, or being rude in any way.
Positive socialization, obedience training, and working with an accredited AKC CGC Evaluator/Trainer will ensure that your Great Dane is a polite, friendly, calm, confident citizen anywhere you go.
Stay and Place training is critical for all dogs, but especially important for Great Danes.
This is because Great Danes are giant dogs and can easily knock over small children or elderly people when they jump up or lean on them.
As with all new skills, this is easy to teach using rewards!
Start with your dog in a sit or down, then take one step away from them. If they move, simply stop and go back to the beginning. Train your Great Dane to stay by starting at a very basic level, and working your way up.
When they stay put, even if it’s just for a second, reward/treat and then repeat.
Gradually increase the distance, time, and distractions.
Training Great Danes is Easy
We believe that training Great Danes is easy. Start at a young age if possible. Use lots of verbal praise, small treats, and rewards.
If you find yourself saying NO more than you are saying YES, ask yourself the following questions:
Does my dog actually know the behavior that I am asking, in this level of distractions?
Is my puppy mature enough physically and mentally to respond to this?
Am I being fair with my corrections, or am I being frustrated?
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Great Danes are often seen as couch potato dogs that don’t need a lot of exercise. This is a bit of a myth! Of course, every dog is different, so considering their age, health, and energy levels is key. But Great Danes can be a surprisingly athletic and agile dog!
We believe in allowing Great Danes freedom to run, play, and explore. Too many people allow their big dogs to become obese, which can shorten their lifespan by two years on average. All too often we’ve noticed that obesity and the outdated belief that resting after meals will “prevent bloat” go hand in hand (read more about the resting myth here).
The truth is that most Great Danes are not getting enough enrichment OR movement, and it’s causing health issues, anxiety, destructive behaviors, and boredom.
Today we’re going to dig into this and discover:
How much exercise do Great Danes need
If Great Danes are a high energy dog or a couch potato
How to keep a Great Dane fit and healthy
Alleviating boredom, “stubbornness”, and destructive behaviors with exercise and enrichment
What is it Like to Live with a Great Dane?
Great Danes are giant breed dogs that weigh anywhere from 120 to 200 pounds. They are one of the tallest breeds of dogs, and they are also one of the heaviest.
Despite their large size, Great Danes are gentle giants who are known for being loving and affectionate with their families. Great Danes thrive on human interaction and many enjoy guests in your home and will happily meet people in public, too.
Well-bred, well-trained, and properly socialized Great Danes are a joy to live with.
Many Danes, unfortunately, suffer from anxiety and stress, which can also increase their risk of bloat.
Make sure that your Great Dane is well-socialized and give your dog plenty of opportunities to build confidence and positive associations with the world.
Do Great Danes Need a Big House?
Contrary to popular belief, Great Danes don’t need a huge house or yard! Unlike higher-energy working breeds (such as poodles or shepherds), many Great Danes have an excellent off-switch.
This means that when they are provided with enough enrichment and exercise, they are perfectly content to lounge (so long as there is a couch with their name on it).
Even the calmest and most docile Dane can become destructive when bored, anxious, or under-stimulated.
Many people believe that some toys, other pets, and a yard are enough. They are then surprised when their huge dog eats the house!
All big dogs, but especially Great Danes who live in smaller homes or in homes with no yard benefit greatly from off-leash training.
This will allow them natural freedom of movement and opportunities to explore the environment without frustrating physical restraints.
You don’t need a big house, as long as you are willing to give your Great Dane access to the big world.
Do Great Danes Need a Fenced Yard?
A fenced yard is a wonderful thing to have, but we know that many people who live in apartments or in homes with no fencing would love to own a Great Dane!
If you live in an apartment, we recommend that you get involved in some form of dog sports such as rally obedience, scent work, off-leash hiking, or even just basic obedience classes.
This will give your dog the physical and mental stimulation that they need to be happy and well-adjusted.
Are Great Danes High-Energy Dogs?
There is a misconception that Great Danes are couch potatoes.
Many Dane owners are surprised to find that their dog needs a good amount of exercise!
While Great Danes are not as high-energy as some other breeds, they do need daily exercise to stay happy and healthy.
Some dogs will respond to a lack of enrichment by becoming depressed and having low energy.
Others will be difficult to control, noisy, and frustrating.
A bored or under-enriched Great Dane can, AND WILL, destroy your home. That’s not fair to you or to the dog who felt the need to do it in the first place.
Unlike a small herding dog, a Great Dane has large teeth and can eat entire couches, tear up the carpet, and shred drywall in a matter of minutes.
Some people mistake these behaviors as ‘defiance’ or ‘spite’. The truth is that the dog is simply bored and needs an outlet for its energy.
Providing your Great Dane with daily exercise, both mental and physical, is the best way to prevent them from becoming destructive.
Can Great Danes Stay Home Alone?
Great Danes are not the best breed for people who work long hours or are gone frequently.
Like all dogs, they require regular exercise, which may be difficult to provide if the schedule is too busy to provide much more than a few short walks.
While they can stay home alone for short periods, they do much better in homes where someone is around more often. Great Danes thrive on social contact with humans and other dogs, so daily isolation can be hard on them.
Read on to learn more about Great Dane enrichment and exercise!
Great Dane Puppies Exercise
We recommend that the majority of enrichment your puppy receives comes from off-leash play and positive socialization.
Walks are, quite frankly, overrated! A growing puppy does not make a great running partner, either.
Large breeds (and giants especially) should be fully mature before engaging in running or long walks on pavement.
Our socialization guide covers several activities that build strength and confidence, including fun puppy playgrounds, exploration, and early training tips. We’ve included alternatives to traditional ‘walks’ that are more fun, engaging, and enriching!
Many people believe that their puppy should “go on walks”, but we don’t consider that an important form of exercise for most dogs, especially Dane puppies.
Walks, if used, should be for socialization and training purposes, or to get from point a to point b. Good leash skills are important and all Great Danes must be taught to walk politely from a young age.
However, a daily walk is the most over-rated form of exercise we can think of. Walking on pavement does little for muscle development and mental enrichment, especially when you compare this activity to a more natural form of exercise (off-leash exploration).
Puppies need a LOT of sleep. Make sure your Great Dane puppy is resting and napping often. When your puppy is awake, work on socialization and basic positive reinforcement training!
The more time you can spend exposing your puppy to different textures, sights, and sounds, the better.
15 minutes in a small kiddie pool filled with some water and floating toys is much better enrichment for a puppy than a walk.
As above, keep in mind that your puppies’ joints require care. Avoid slick floors, jumping, and excessive playing or running on asphalt and pavement.
Health problems related to joints are a common problem with Great Danes, and a little care when they are young will go a long ways!
Crates are important for keeping your Great Dane safe when it has to be left alone, however, too much crate time can lead to weak feet and poor development.
Keep this in mind when evaluating if a Great Dane puppy is the right fit for your family.
You can provide a secure area with a lot of space for your puppy to move (such as an empty room) as an alternative to excessive crate times, and hire a dog walker to help.
We recommend limiting crate time to no more than one hour per month of life, and no more than 8 hours from 8 months of age up.
This will ensure that their bones and muscles are receiving the correct balance of nutrients to thrive. See our most popular nutrition articles below for more information!
Great Dane adult exercise
Adult Great Danes should receive at least 30 minutes of off-leash exercise per day.
This can be in the form of swimming, playing with another dog friend, or going for a hike.
They should also receive at least 30 minutes of enrichment. These can be things such as obedience training, food puzzles, trick training, or visiting a novel place.
Short on time? Use the food puzzles during meal times!
If you have more time and your giant dog is well-trained, visit a brewery!
If training issues are a problem, enroll in a weekly obedience class with a positive reinforcement balanced dog trainer and work towards a Canine Good Citizen Title.
Many people believe that Great Danes should be lazy and slow because of their giant size. This is a common misconception of the breed that simply isn’t true. Great Dane dogs should be lean, athletic, and fit.
A well-kept, healthy-weight Great Dane will be muscular, agile, shiny, energetic, friendly, confident, and healthy. Not slow, cumbersome, heavy, or weak. Giant dogs can do incredible things when we keep them fit!
What happens when dogs don’t get enough exercise?
Danes that do not get enough exercise are often destructive, anxious, and difficult. They can also suffer from health problems such as weakness and flat feet, resulting from a lack of muscle development and unrestricted movement.v
Some dogs need more than just 30 minutes, too!
All of that pent-up energy has to go somewhere, and chances are that you are not going to like where your big dog puts that energy. (Goodbye, couch!).
We say this often and we will say it again; for most dogs, a daily leashed walk and some toys are just not enough.
Think about how many dogs lived before vast urban environments and busy suburban lifestyles became normal.
They were free to run, play, nap, explore and sniff around. Many of them were never on a leash. A lot of dogs worked by chasing rats, herding livestock, retrieving things, or hunting.
Dogs would run, play in the water, pick up sticks, nap in the grass, and then run some more. Aggression and anxiety were minimal at best.
Destructive, anxious, frustrated, reactive, and difficult dogs are a modern concept that has come with the belief that dogs should stay indoors most of the day and live their life restrained by leashes, harnesses, and collars.
Modern dogs are all too often coddled, humanized, and isolated.
We all want to spoil and love on our pets, but we should never forget that they are still, in fact, dogs.
We believe that whenever possible, dogs need to be able to run and play freely without being restricted by a leash. This is how they relieve stress, build confidence, and stay mentally and physically fit.
Not to mention the fact that Great Danes are prone to several orthopedic health issues, which can be made worse by the overuse of physical restraint. This is especially true when relying heavily on training tools such as front-clip harnesses or head collars.
All dogs must learn to walk politely on a leash, however, given the chance, being off-leash as much as possible is a much more humane and healthy choice.
Off-leash training comes with responsibility, though! You should only let your Dane off-leash if they have excellent recall, an appropriate temperament, and only in places where doing so is safe, appropriate, and legal.
Prioritize this training. We recommend E-Collar training for all Great Danes. If your Dane cannot be off-leash or is dangerous to people or dogs, work with a trainer! They may be able to help.
If you live in an urban area, many dog parks provide a great opportunity for your friendly and social Great Dane to play and move.
We are covering dog parks in more depth below; they can be good OR bad, depending on the situation!
How do I Keep my Great Dane Healthy?
Great Danes are prone to several health issues that can shorten their lifespan.
Some of these issues are genetic, and some are environmental. Unfortunately, because Great Danes are so unusually large, they are more susceptible to environmental factors than other dogs.
Great Dane joint health
Great Danes grow extremely fast as puppies. The wrong nutrition and too much of the wrong kind of exercise can do a number on their joint health, which will affect them into adulthood.
Not only that but Great Danes are plagued by unethical breeders who are carelessly passing on structural faults, which are damaging and painful to our gentle giants.
Roached backs, weak hips, cow hocks, dysplasia, flat feet, and poor angulation all play a role in how a Great Dane moves and functions in its body.
Dogs with poor structure will especially benefit from strength-building and natural movement on soft, varied terrain.
Make sure you are choosing diligent breeders who are proving their dog’s structure before breeding them.
Good nutrition will contain natural joint support (such as glucosamine chondroitin) from cartilage (look for a meat meal and/or a meat by-product meal in your pet food).
Great Dane weight
Keeping your dog at a healthy body weight is one of the most important things you can do to keep them healthy!
Great Danes are especially prone to obesity, which puts a lot of strain on their joints and internal organs.
On average, dogs that are kept lean and fit will live 2 years longer than if they are allowed to become overweight!
You should be able to feel your dog’s ribs without too much effort. If you can’t, they are likely overweight and could benefit from a change in diet and an increase in exercise.
Obesity in Great Danes can lead to heart problems, diabetes, arthritis, and more.
Great Dane nutrition and food
Nutrition plays a key role in the health of any dog, but it’s especially important for Great Danes.
As we mentioned before, they grow very quickly and their bones and joints are under a lot of strain. Young dogs are particularly susceptible to joint injury, bone growth problems, and the development of health problems such as brittle bones and knuckling.
A diet that is too high in calcium or not balanced correctly can cause problems down the road. Your dog’s diet can greatly impact their health, and the best foods for Great Danes may not be what you think!
DCM (heart failure) is a problem associated with poorly formulated and poorly researched foods.
Many pet foods have excellent marketing departments but have people with questionable credentials formulating the food that your dog eats every single day. They market these foods with unregulated terms such as ‘holistic’, ‘human grade’, and ‘super-premium’.
We recommend feeding your Great Dane the following brands (see our list below, all are clickable).
Nothing else compares when it comes to research, science, nutrition, quality, and dedication to correct formulations.
Puppies, including giant breeds such as Danes, should receive puppy foods until 18-24 months. Use manufacturer guidelines and the recommendation of your veterinarian as a guide for this.
What are the Best Forms of Exercise for Great Danes?
Not all exercise is created equal! Here are some of the best ways to provide movement and enrichment to your dog.
Off-Leash Enrichment and Free-Play
As above, we believe that off-leash enrichment and free play are ideal activities for Great Danes.
Use a long leash until your dog has a rock-solid recall, and be mindful of when and where you let your dog off-leash (especially if there are children, wildlife, or traffic nearby).
E-Collar training is a gentle and positive way to ditch the leash! The sensation from an e-collar replaces leash pressure, and dogs respond enthusiastically to this communication.
If you want to learn more about getting your dog off the leash once and for all, our famous Great Dane E-Collar Training Guide will get you, and your dog, off to a fantastic start!
Puzzles & brain games
Slow eating is an excellent way to reduce bloat risk in Great Danes. Bloat is a deadly condition and dogs who eat quickly are at a higher risk of experiencing it.
Puzzle feeders and slow feeders are a great way to turn mealtime into enrichment time!
Your dog will have to use their brain to figure out how to get the food out of the toy, and they’ll be getting a little bit of exercise in the process. Here are some of our favorites!
Dog parks are not for every dog, and they are not always good.
It depends on the individual dog, the other dogs at the park, the type of park, and how well-supervised the play is.
We never want to see a bunch of overwhelmed, over-excited dogs in a small boring fenced area with owners who aren’t paying attention.
The best dog parks are large (multiple acres), have varied terrain (including hills and different textures such as water, grass, sand, gravel, wood, etc.), and the dogs there can easily choose to interact with or avoid other dogs.
When taking your dog to a dog park, evaluate whether or not your dog has the temperament for it. Dogs that are fearful, nippy, pushy, or aggressive need to be working with a trainer, not visiting the dog park.
Training your Great Dane
Dog training classes are a fun way to provide enrichment for you and your dog! Obedience classes don’t have to stop with Puppy Class 101 graduation.
Many great trainers offer weekly drop-in classes where you can work on your Canine Good Citizen title, scent work, confidence building, and more.
As a Great Dane owner, you must be willing to put the time into training.
A Great Dane is such a large dog that pulling, nipping, running away, fence hopping, and jumping on guests can be dangerous.
Attending training classes is a solid win-win for both enrichment and sanity reasons!