Category: Puppies

  • How to Safely Socialize a Great Dane with Other Dogs: Science-Backed Techniques

    How to Safely Socialize a Great Dane with Other Dogs: Science-Backed Techniques

    If you’ve recently welcomed a Great Dane into your family, you may be wondering how to ensure they have positive interactions with other dogs. Socialization plays a crucial role in their development, and with the right techniques, you can help your Great Dane become a well-rounded and confident companion. There are many reasons to safely socialize a great dane with other dogs, and we’re going to dig into them!

    In this guide, we will explore science-backed strategies for socializing your Great Dane with other dogs, paving the way for harmonious and enjoyable canine interactions. You will find information here about socializing giant breed puppies and adult or rescue dogs, too!

    Socialize a great dane

    Why it’s important to socialize a Great Dane

    Socializing giant breed dogs of all ages is important as it helps them develop crucial social skills, builds their confidence, and promotes positive interactions with other dogs.

    Proper socialization can prevent behavioral issues and ensure that your Great Dane grows up to be a well-adjusted and friendly companion. In turn, this can make them easier to handle, live with, and enjoy!

    By exposing them correctly to a variety of dogs, environments, and experiences, you can help your Great Dane navigate social situations with ease.

    It’s important, however, to avoid common socialization pitfalls!

    Tips for Socializing a Great Dane Puppy

    Here are some of our favorite tips for socializing a Great Dane puppy around other dogs!

    – Use positive reinforcement & predictable dogs

    Start by choosing a calm and controlled environment, such as friend’s backyard and other friendly puppies or mature adult dogs. Avoid the dog park, as the risk of negative experiences is too high!

    Begin with short and controlled interactions, gradually increasing the duration as your puppy becomes more comfortable and confident.

    Always keep a close eye on their body language, ensuring they are relaxed and stress-free. Reward your Great Dane puppy with treats, praise, and affection for calm and friendly behavior towards other dogs.

    Use a clicker or a verbal cue to mark the desired actions, such as coming to you instead of being rude to anothe dog, and then promptly offer a reward. Consistency is key; reinforce positive interactions consistently to create positive associations with other dogs.

    As your puppy gains confidence and social skills, the process will become easier, leading to a well-adjusted and socialized Great Dane.

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    – Gradual exposure to other dogs

    Of course, not every dog you meet will be a friendly puppy or mature adult! It is incredibly important to expose your Great Dane to other dogs, but in doing so, encourage them to be indifferent.

    Teaching a puppy to ignore other dogs in their environment is an essential skill that promotes well-behaved and safe interactions.

    To achieve this, begin with early socialization, introducing your puppy to various dogs in controlled settings as mentioned above. Reinforce basic obedience commands, like “sit” and “stay,” to help your pup maintain focus. When walking or in the presence of other dogs, use treats and positive reinforcement to reward calm behavior and attention to you.

    If your puppy shows interest in other dogs, practice the “leave it” command, redirecting their attention. Consistent training and positive associations with ignoring other dogs will ultimately help your puppy develop the self-control necessary for well-mannered interactions in any environment. Be patient and persistent, as this training process takes time and practice.

    Never let your Great Dane lunge or pull towards people or other dogs; these are hard habits to break and unfortunately can set the foundation for future leash reactivity.

    – Enrolling in puppy socialization classes

    Enrolling in puppy socialization classes is a fantastic decision for both of you. While they may seem trivial and repetitive, they are exactly what most dogs need!

    These classes offer a structured and controlled environment for your puppy to interact with (or learn to ignore) other dogs and people, which is crucial for their well-rounded development.

    Beyond just helping your puppy get used to different social situations, these classes also provide a platform for them to learn essential obedience skills and commands. It’s an excellent opportunity for you as a pet owner to receive guidance from experienced trainers and gain valuable insights into understanding your puppy’s behavior and needs.

    Overall, enrolling in puppy socialization classes sets a strong foundation for a well-behaved and sociable dog. Don’t stop at the end of the 6 week puppy class! Work up to the Canine Good Citizen title.

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    Socializing Adult or Rescue Great Danes

    A common question that we receive is about socializing adult or rescue Great Danes.

    Adult or rescue dogs that weren’t adequately socialized as puppies can exhibit a range of challenging behaviors.

    They may struggle with fear or anxiety in unfamiliar situations or around new people and animals. Aggression, reactivity, or excessive shyness can also be issues, making it difficult for them to interact peacefully with others.

    These dogs might not understand basic social cues, leading to communication problems with other dogs and humans. They may have difficulty adapting to new environments, which can be stressful for both the dog and their owner.

    Patience, consistent training, and a supportive environment are crucial for helping these dogs overcome their socialization deficits and lead happier, more balanced lives.

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    – Understanding previous experiences

    A dog’s previous experiences play a pivotal role in shaping their ability to interact with the world.

    Positive early experiences, including proper socialization and exposure to various people, animals, and environments, often result in a well-adjusted and confident dog. Conversely, dogs that have endured traumatic or negative experiences, such as a lack of socialization, abuse or neglect, may develop fear, anxiety, or aggression issues that hinder their social interactions.

    These experiences can profoundly affect a dog’s trust in humans and their ability to navigate unfamiliar situations.

    – Building trust through positive interactions

    Building trust with undersocialized dogs may be a patient and delicate process that requires time, compassion, and understanding.

    These dogs often have had limited positive interactions with humans and the world, which can make them anxious and defensive. The key to earning their trust is to create a safe and predictable environment. Don’t use harsh or dominating training techniques, and stop yourself from considering some of their behaviors a symptom of ‘stubbornness’.

    Approach them calmly, use soft and reassuring tones, and avoid sudden movements. Offer treats, toys, and affection as rewards for any signs of progress, no matter how small. Consistency is vital; establish routines and boundaries to provide them with a sense of security.

    Gradual positive exposure to new experiences, people, and animals should be introduced at a pace that respects their comfort levels. Building trust with undersocialized dogs can be a lengthy process, but as they begin to associate your presence with positive experiences, their confidence will grow, and your bond will strengthen.

    Some dogs may never be fully confident, and that’s ok. Every effort you make will make a difference in their lives, though.

    – Introducing them to well-socialized dogs

    Introducing a fearful or unpredictable adult or rescue Great Dane to other dogs should be approached with caution and care to ensure the safety and comfort of all involved.

    Here’s a step-by-step guide:

    1. Choose the Right Environment: Select a quiet, controlled environment for the introduction, away from distractions and busy dog parks.
    2. Leash and Safety: Keep both your Great Dane and the other dog on leashes for added control. Ensure that the other dog is well-behaved and sociable. This is key! Never try to introduce two dogs that are fearful or reactive.
    3. Observe Body Language: Watch both dogs’ body language closely. Look for signs of fear or stress, such as raised hackles, trembling, or avoidance behaviors. If either dog appears too anxious or aggressive, it may be best to postpone the introduction.
    4. Gradual Approach: Begin by keeping a considerable distance between the two dogs and allow them to observe each other from a distance. Reward calm behavior with treats and praise.
    5. Parallel Walking: After some time, if both dogs seem calm and curious, start a parallel walk, walking the dogs side by side. Keep a safe distance between them to reduce direct interaction.
    6. Allow Interaction: If the dogs continue to remain calm, you can allow them to approach each other under close supervision. Keep the initial meeting brief and positive, then separate them while rewarding with treats and praise.
    7. Repeat and Extend: Gradually increase the duration of their interactions during subsequent meetings, always maintaining a positive and controlled atmosphere.
    8. Watch for Signs: Continue to monitor their interactions for any signs of fear, aggression, or stress. If any issues arise, separate the dogs immediately and reassess the situation.
    9. Professional Guidance: If your Great Dane’s fear or anxiety persists, consider seeking guidance from a professional dog trainer or behaviorist who specializes in socialization and fearful dogs.
    10. Patience and Consistency: Remember that building confidence and trust in a fearful dog takes time. Be patient and consistent in your efforts and always prioritize the well-being of your Great Dane and the other dogs involved.

    The key is to progress at your dog’s pace, ensure their comfort, and create positive associations with the presence of other dogs. Each dog is unique, and the timeline for successful socialization may vary.

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    The Science Behind Dog Socialization

    Modern positive dog socialization is rooted in a deep understanding of canine behavior and psychology, underpinned by scientific principles and even a little common sense.

    This approach to socialization recognizes that dogs, like humans, thrive on positive experiences and reinforcement. It takes into account the extensive research on animal behavior, emphasizing the importance of positive interactions and rewards to shape their responses to the world around them.

    The science behind modern positive dog training and ways to socialize a Great Dane aims to create a safe and enjoyable learning environment, helping dogs build confidence, develop essential social skills, and form strong bonds with their human companions.

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    – The critical socialization period

    The critical socialization for great dane puppies is a vital phase in their early development, typically occurring between the ages of 3 to 14 weeks. Of course, this is at the same time that many exciting or scary changes are happening, too!

    Veterinary visits, meeting their new family, learning about crates and eating out of bowls, and even going home are big changes that can be scary to a new puppy. Proper Great Dane care and attention to their health, well-being, and experiences can really make a difference.

    During this critical window, puppies are highly receptive to their environment, experiences, and social interactions. It is a time when they are most open to forming positive associations with people, other animals, and various situations.

    – Impact of positive experiences on behavior

    When puppies encounter a pleasurable experience, such as praise, treats, or play, their brains release chemicals like dopamine, which strengthen the neural pathways associated with that experience.

    This process, known as associative learning, forms the basis for future behavior. Positive experiences help puppies build confidence, trust in humans, and learn valuable skills.

    They also create lasting positive associations with various stimuli, making puppies more adaptable, resilient, and less likely to develop behavioral issues in the future.

    This scientific understanding underscores the importance of providing puppies with a nurturing, positive environment rich in diverse experiences to shape their behavior and ensure they grow into well-adjusted, happy adult dogs.

    Why Socialization Matters for Great Danes

    As much as we may love them, it can be difficult or even dangerous to navigate through life with a giant breed dog that is fearful, aggressive, or reactive. When we don’t throughly socialize a Great Dane puppy, we risk this becoming a reality.

    Socialization is of paramount importance for Great Danes due to their unique characteristics and potential size. Great Danes are one of the largest dog breeds, known for their gentle and friendly nature. However, their imposing size can be intimidating to others, especially if they don’t exemplify the breed standard (friendly & confident).

    Well-socialized Great Danes are more likely to be relaxed, well-behaved, and comfortable in various social situations, making them safer and more enjoyable companions for their families and those they encounter.

    – Preventing fear and aggression

    Preventing fear and aggression from developing in the first place is key.

    1. Positive Reinforcement: Utilize positive reinforcement techniques to reward desired behaviors with treats, praise, and affection. Focus on what the puppy is doing right, rather than punishing for mistakes.
    2. Gentle Leash Training: Discourage pulling and avoid situations where they puppy may be putting pressure on their throat, which can ultimately lead to fear and aggression. Practice loose leash walking, rewarding the puppy for walking calmly by your side.
    3. Desensitization: Gradually expose your puppy to various environments, people, and other animals while maintaining a safe and controlled distance. Reward them for calm and non-reactive behavior.
    4. Socialization: Begin socializing your puppy early, but ensure that the interactions are positive and stress-free. Choose well-behaved and friendly dogs for socialization, and monitor the encounters closely.
    5. Consistency: Maintain a consistent routine and use clear, non-confrontational commands to teach your puppy. Consistency helps the puppy understand what is expected of them.
    6. Avoid Punishment: Refrain from punitive and outdated training methods that create fear or anxiety. Punishment-based (“Alpha”) training can lead to aggression and defensive behavior.
    7. Professional Guidance: Consider consulting a professional dog trainer or behaviorist who specializes in positive reinforcement methods if you encounter challenging behavioral issues. They can provide personalized guidance and support.
    8. Patience: Understand that training takes time and patience. Some puppies are genetically prone towards fear and aggression, which really speaks to the importance of choosing a good Great Dane breeder. Each puppy is unique, and their progress may vary. Be patient and always prioritize their emotional well-being.
  • Great Danes for Sale: How to Find a Great Dane Puppy

    Great Danes for Sale: How to Find a Great Dane Puppy

    There are many places to find Great Danes for sale, but not all of them are reputable, ethical, or even real! Did you know that many online websites that sell Great Dane puppies are a scam? Or that a lot of Great Dane Breeders who seem friendly and reputable are actually highly unethical?

    I’m going to use this blog to help you find Great Danes for sale from reputable breeders who want to make sure that your pet is healthy, happy, and…REAL!

    There are four places we recommend looking to find Great Dane puppies, and several places we encourage you to steer clear from. Let’s take a look!

    Great Danes for Sale: How to Find Reputable Breeders

    great danes for sale

    Great Dane Breeder Registry

    The first place you should look for a Great Dane puppy is through the parent club breeder registry.

    In the U.S., the parent club is called the Great Dane Club of America. There is also the Great Dane Club of Canada and the European Federation of Deutsche Dogge Club, among others.

    Most Great Dane breed clubs are exclusive: meaning, you don’t get to be a member or be in their registry unless you are a well-respected, established Great Dane breeder who also follows the club’s Code of Ethics statements.

    The Code of Ethics documents typically outline requirements for members regarding ethical breeding practices, breed standards, and health testing.

    The breed parent clubs typically have a registry that will allow you to search your area for breeders. Don’t be shy! While these breeders are ‘show breeders’, many of the puppies they produce are beautiful pets from fully health-tested parents.

    Ever wonder why some breeders have the worst websites? Ethical breeders receive a lot of inquiries and don’t need their website to be a marketing platform. Don’t be afraid of breeders whose websites look outdated.

    While it may be tricky to find an ethical breeder with puppies available, the parent club is always the best place to start. By making connections with show breeders, you may find that they can also often refer you to others that they are mentoring (exceptional up-and-coming breeders who may not be advertising).

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    Find Great Dane Puppies at Local Breed Clubs

    The next place to look is through your local breed club!

    The parent clubs outline the breed standard and many of the ethics practices regarding breeding, while the local clubs focus on community. There will likely be active breeders in your local breed club chapter who are not yet members of the main parent club, so your options will expand!

    The breeders who participate in the Great Dane breeder community for your area (for example, the Great Dane Club of Greater Denver or the Great Dane Club of California are all helping each other. They see each other often in club meetings and at shows, too. There are a lot of checks and balances and any breeder who is not breeding for the health and betterment of the breed is unlikely to be welcomed by the local club.

    Search your parent club and your local area for a Great Dane chapter and go from there! Start making connections, you never know who you’ll find. As above, remember that these breeders don’t typically need to advertise and you may not find them through ‘traditional’ channels, but they are the best of the best.

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    See Great Dane Breeders at Dog Shows

    Want to meet several ethical, reputable Great Dane breeders in one day AND meet the parents of your potential future puppy?

    Go to a dog show! You can find listings for dog shows via your local Great Dane breed clubs, the AKC website, and your local all-breed kennel clubs (just do a Google search). Dog shows are typically free (or inexpensive) to attend and will have vendors, concessions, and events such as conformation (showing), dock diving, agility, obedience, and more.

    Find out when and where the Great Danes will be in the show ring, and be a respectful spectator! If you are new to dog shows and want to understand what is happening in the ring before you show up to check it out, read this easy beginners guide from the AKC.

    Never approach a breeder who has just left the show ring, is preparing their dog for the ring, or is about to go into the ring. Remember, showing is a sport that requires focus, dedication, and concentration.

    Sit back and watch the dogs; do any catch your eye? Make note of the handler and when the time is right, start making connections! Most breeders are very welcoming to spectators who are interested in the breed and looking to find an ethical, dedicated breeder for their next pet.

    Remember, for every litter of puppies from a ‘show breeder’, there will be several puppies in the litter that won’t ever be shown. These beautiful dogs are looking for exceptional homes just like yours!

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    Great Dane Breeders that Health Test Facebook Group

    There is one group on Facebook that has dedicated themselves to legitimate breeders who fully health-test the parents. While there are many Great Dane breeder groups on social media, this is the only one we can confidently say is not a scam.

    Tread cautiously with other groups as they are often run by predatory backyard breeders.

    The Great Dane Breeders that Health Test Facebook group requires members to submit the results of the hips, heart, eyes, and thyroid panels that were completed before breeding. Choosing breeders who invest in proper health testing dramatically reduces the risk that you will receive a puppy with expensive and devastating health problems in the future, so this is important!

    You can access that group and find your next Great Dane puppy HERE.

    Always verify at www.ofa.org that the breeder you choose is fully health testing both parents, too.

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    Why is Choosing a Good Great Dane Puppy Breeder Important?

    Great Danes are massive dogs that are unfortunately prone to several genetic health problems.

    The breed itself is unfortunately overrun with “breeders” who cut corners on everything from health testing to socialization. Many of these breeders are selling off-standard “Euro” dogs with health guarantees that are contingent upon the new owner purchasing food or vitamins from the breeder.

    This is a scam and those breeders must be avoided.

    Poorly bred Great Danes suffer from problems with their health and temperament that make their lives shorter and in many cases, uncomfortable. Danes should never be timid, fearful, or aggressive; yet many are.

    Great Danes should have beautiful movement and structure to support their bodies throughout life; but many don’t.

    It’s so important to choose ethical, dedicated breeders.

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    How to Avoid Bad Great Dane Breeders

    There are several unfortunately common places where people look for Great Dane breeders that should honestly be your last resort. These channels are overwhelmed with breeders who are cutting corners on health testing or worse, may not even be real! If you find it easy to find Great Danes for sale, chances are, you’ve found an unethical breeder or a scam.

    Our Great Dane breeder scams page is one of the most popular pages on our site for a reason; there are thousands of breeders out there who are collecting deposits but have no puppies at all. Read more about this scam HERE.

    Here is a short list of things you never want to do when purchasing a Great Dane Puppy:

    • Shop for puppies in social media groups
    • Do a Google search and purchase a puppy online from a website
    • Respond to “breeders” who solicit to you via messaging apps on social media
    • Look for the cheapest puppy you can on Craistlist
    • Choose a breeder from the AKC registry without fully vetting that the breeder has all OFA health tests completed
    • Buy a puppy from a breeder simply because others say they had a “great experience” with them (you must still check into OFA health testing, socialization, and the pedigree)
    • Purchase a puppy from a breeder who requires that you feed vitamins or food that you purchase from them or from their affiliate link (these are typically MLM scams)
    • Breed your own Great Dane to another in exchange for a free puppy without full OFA health testing

  • Great Dane Puppy Care 101

    Great Dane Puppy Care 101

    Welcoming a Great Dane puppy into your life is an exciting and heartwarming experience!

    These gentle giants are known for their immense size, affectionate nature, and unwavering loyalty. However, as with any new addition to your family, caring for a Great Dane puppy requires knowledge, patience, and dedication. In this comprehensive guide, “Great Dane Puppy Care 101,” we’ll walk you through everything you need to know to ensure your Great Dane puppy grows into a happy, healthy, and well-adjusted adult.

    From nutrition and socialization to training tips and healthcare essentials, this article will equip you with the knowledge and tools to provide the best possible start in life for your furry companion. So, let’s embark on this incredible journey of puppy parenthood together and make sure your Great Dane puppy thrives every step of the way.

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    Great Dane Puppy Care 101

    Taking care of a Great Dane puppy involves five key elements for their well-being and happiness.

    • Nutrition
    • Socialization
    • Training
    • Exercise
    • Veterinary Care

    Providing a balanced and high-quality diet tailored to their specific needs is crucial to support their rapid growth. Equally important is socialization, as early exposure to different people, animals, and environments helps them develop into well-adjusted and confident adults. Adequate exercise is another vital component, as Great Danes are active dogs that require daily physical activity to maintain their health and prevent boredom-related issues.

    Training plays a pivotal role in shaping their behavior and obedience. Consistent and positive reinforcement-based training methods help ensure that your Great Dane puppy grows into a well-behaved and respectful companion. Lastly, regular veterinary care is imperative for their overall health. Routine check-ups, vaccinations, and preventive measures are essential to catch and address any health concerns early on, ensuring a long and happy life for your Great Dane puppy.

    Let’s dig into each of these topics below!

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    What to Feed a Great Dane Puppy

    Choosing the right puppy food for your Great Dane is a crucial decision that can significantly impact their health and development.

    When it comes to large or giant breed puppies like Great Danes, it’s important to focus on nutrition tailored to their specific needs. Look for puppy food formulas designed explicitly for large and giant breeds.

    Yes, I said puppy food! You may have heard from other puppy owners or even your breeder that you should feed your new Great Dane puppy adult food. This is an outdated practice and no longer considered the gold standard of care!

    A properly formulated large or giant breed puppy food will typically have controlled levels of calcium and phosphorus to support slow and steady bone growth, reducing the risk of skeletal issues that can be common in rapidly growing puppies.

    Additionally, ensure the food contains high-quality protein sources to aid in muscle development. Consult with your veterinarian to select a brand and formula that meets your Great Dane puppy’s unique dietary requirements.

    Our opinion mirrors that of board-certified veterinary nutritionists, who say that the following formulas are ideal for all Dane puppies under the age of two:

    Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.

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    How to Train a Great Dane Puppy

    Training a Great Dane puppy is a rewarding journey that requires patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement. It’s also really, really important! The last thing you want is a giant breed dog taking YOU for a walk.

    Begin with basic obedience commands like “sit,” “stay,” and “come” in a controlled, distraction-free environment. Use treats and praise as rewards to reinforce desired behaviors. Practice these behaviors several times a day, especially at first, in a variety of locations. Puppies thrive on repetition!

    For leash training, start with short walks to get your puppy used to the leash and gradually increase the distance. Encourage loose leash walking by stopping and changing direction when they pull, rewarding them when they walk calmly by your side.

    Off-leash training can be challenging for large breeds like Great Danes, but it’s essential for their safety and well-being. Start in a secure, fenced area (or use a long leash, like this one) and practice recall commands like “come.”

    Gradually increase the distance and practice in different environments with varying levels of distractions. Never scold your puppy for failing to come to you, and always make coming to you a positive experience.

    Remember that Great Dane Puppies BITE! This is a normal, playful behavior that usually results from excitement. When your puppy gets too amped up, cross your arms, SIGH, and walk away. This teaches your puppy that you will disengage if they become rude with their teeth; they will learn (with repetition), to chill out.

    To take your training to the next level and ensure your Great Dane is a well-behaved canine citizen, consider pursuing the Canine Good Citizen (CGC) title. This program evaluates a dog’s obedience and temperament, including behaviors like sitting politely for petting and walking calmly on a leash. Earning a CGC title not only showcases your Great Dane’s training and good manners but also demonstrates your commitment to responsible dog ownership. Remember that consistency, positive reinforcement, and patience are the keys to successfully training your Great Dane puppy.

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    How Much Exercise Should a Great Dane Puppy Get?

    Exercising a Great Dane puppy requires a delicate balance due to their rapid growth and susceptibility to bone and joint issues.

    While they are a large breed known for their energy, it’s crucial to avoid excessive forced exercise during their puppyhood. Examples of something to avoid include long leashed walks on hard pavement, or super long hikes that result in pure exhaustion.

    Generally, Great Dane puppies should have short, controlled play sessions and moderate walks. Most of their movement should actually come from free play on soft, varied terrain!

    A rule of thumb is 5 minutes of exercise per month of age, up to a maximum of 20-30 minutes for young puppies (for leashed walks and hikes). Focus instead on low-impact activities to protect their developing joints, like interactive play and exploration of various textures (which doubles as socialization).

    Swimming is an excellent option as it provides exercise without putting stress on their limbs. Consulting with a veterinarian or canine specialist can help you tailor an appropriate exercise regimen for your Great Dane puppy based on their individual needs and growth rate. Remember, the goal is to ensure their physical development is gradual and healthy.

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    Veterinary Care for Great Dane Puppies

    Veterinary care for Great Dane puppies is a critical component of their overall well-being. We believe in and trust science and veterinarians!

    These large breed puppies are more susceptible to certain health issues, making regular check-ups and vaccinations crucial. Start with a comprehensive wellness exam shortly after bringing your Great Dane puppy home, and follow a recommended vaccination schedule to protect them from diseases like parvovirus and distemper.

    Given their size, it’s important to monitor their growth and development, ensuring they’re growing at an appropriate rate to avoid skeletal issues. Great Dane puppies should be grown slowly!

    Regular check-ups also allow the vet to address any concerns early on. Discuss a proper nutrition plan with your veterinarian to support your puppy’s unique dietary needs during their rapid growth phase. Additionally, consider discussing preventive measures such as flea and tick control and heartworm prevention.

    Veterinary care is not only about treating illness but also about proactive health management to ensure a long, healthy, and happy life for your Great Dane puppy.

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    Great Dane Puppies are Easy to Care For

    Caring for Great Dane puppies is both a rewarding and responsible undertaking.

    These gentle giants require specialized attention to ensure their health, happiness, and well-being. From choosing the right nutrition and providing early socialization to maintaining a balanced exercise routine, proper training, and regular veterinary care, each aspect of their care is essential in fostering a thriving companion.

    Great Dane puppies may be large, but they’re also known for their boundless love and loyalty, making the effort to raise them well truly worthwhile. By dedicating time and effort to their upbringing, you not only nurture a strong bond but also help them grow into the well-behaved and content adults that this remarkable breed is known to be. Enjoy your puppy and have fun!

  • 5 Dog Food Marketing Gimmicks You Should Know About

    5 Dog Food Marketing Gimmicks You Should Know About

    It’s no secret that I’ve become a passionate advocate for good nutrition when it comes to my dogs. At one time I fell for some very common dog food marketing gimmicks and my dogs suffered as a result.

    As a matter of fact, my experience seeing my heart dog harmed by a popular ‘high quality’ dog food sent me down a huge rabbit hole that I will not soon dig out of.

    There are 300-400 new dog food brands every year in the U.S. All of them are trying to get the money out of your wallet, and will tell you what they have to in order to make it happen.

    Are you wanting to avoid being confused or even scammed by pet food industry marketing tricks and misinformation? This post is for you!

    5 Dog Food Marketing Gimmicks

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    #1 Dog Food Marketing Gimmick: “Family Owned”

    A common phrase seen from dog food companies is the word “Family Owned and Operated”.

    This statement makes dog owners feel like they are supporting a small business, helping a neighbor, or purchasing from a company that is run by people, not corporations. It feels good to purchase from “family owned” companies that appear to have been passed down from generation to generation.

    I hate to burst your bubble here, but this is a big gimmick.

    Of course, many pet food brands and manufacturing facilities have been passed from one family member to the next generation. This happens in a lot of businesses and it’s great, sure.

    Small ‘family owned’ operations are just as susceptible to cutting corners as the big guys.

    Unfortunately, small business playing in the big world of pet food are more likely to cut corners, because they just don’t have the clout or affordable access to resources, funding, research, and the supply chain that bigger companies do.

    We see this at play with Fromm Family Foods. This family organization employs a lot of people and sells millions of dollars worth of food each year, yet, they don’t have a single qualified nutritionist on staff and never have. They do no feeding trials and their research efforts dried up circa 1990.

    We can reasonably assume that isn’t the only place they are keeping their operation lean!

    Midwest Pet foods (the makers of Sportmix, Earthborn, Ultimates, Venture, CanineX and Unrefined) actively market that they are a “family owned” business. They have been under fire from the FDA for sanitation practices at their plants that have resulted in harm or death to over 300 dogs to date. Midwest does not employ a single qualified nutritionist, either.

    A lot of dog food companies rely on smaller ‘family owned’ manufacturing plants (that as above, employ 100’s of people and qualify as medium to large businesses) and a lot of those plants absolutely do have problems.

    Family owned sounds nice on paper, but as above, just because Bob Junior now owns the plant instead of Bob Senior does not mean that they are actually producing something better for your pet. Chances are, they are just as money-driven as any other business out there.

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    #2 – Pet Food Brands with “No Recalls”

    A lot of people mistakenly believe that “no recalls” is an indication that a pet food company is higher quality.

    Many times however, companies issue recalls voluntarily out of an abundance of caution. They should, too, because the alternative to issuing recalls is literally to sweep issues under the rug and hope it doesn’t become a problem.

    Of course, sometimes a company will have a very negative recall history. There is a huge difference between that and a recall that a big company issues for quality control reasons. It’s important to figure out how to sort out the difference.

    Primal Pet Foods and Darwins are examples of brands with inexcusable recalls who have received some damning warning letters from the FDA as a result of sanitation and nutritional practices at their “family owned” plants.

    Champion Pet Foods (the makers or Orijen and Acana) knew they had food on the shelves made with beef tallow that had been contaminated with euthanasia drug. Instead of recalling it from pet owners who had already purchased the food, they quietly pulled pallets from the supply chain and didn’t say a word otherwise.

    People unknowingly fed it to their pets…and while no pets appear to have been harmed, the ethics of it are appalling.

    A company attempting to uphold a history of “no recalls” is going to be much less likely to recall products for small (but notable) issues. Your pet gets to be the guinea pig.

    My point here is this. “No recalls” doesn’t always mean that a company is operating ethically, safely, or with transparency.

    So instead of judging a book by that cover, look at the nature of the recalls, how quickly they were responded to, and why they happened in the first place. Some companies should absolutely be avoided. Others? There is more to the story.

    Thank those companies for recalling instead of letting pet owners bear the brunt of a human mistake.

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    #3 – A “Team of Highly Qualified Nutritionists & Veterinarians”

    Did you know that the solid majority of pet food brands on the market don’t have a single qualified nutritionist on staff?

    But if you look at their website, you’d be made to believe that the company has a massive team of highly qualified and highly educated people sitting in their home office, dedicating their time to formulating food for your pet.

    I’m sure you’re starting to catch on here, but this too is a marketing gimmick.

    With rare exception, what companies really mean when they say they have a ‘team’ of qualified people, is that they pay off-site 3rd party consultants to look over their recipes.

    In many cases, those “highly qualified” nutritional consultants may do nothing more than check a box and verify that on paper, the food is nutritionally complete.

    Off-site nutrition consultants have no allegiance to the brand or the formulas being marketed. A solid majority of foods on the market are actually generic recipes that were spit out by a computer.

    While this usually results in foods that are generally good at keeping pets alive, it’s a far cry from the nutritional research and formulation processes of companies who actually have qualified people on staff.

    This practice of marketing the idea of a ‘team of nutritionists’ is also very, very misleading to pet parents who want to know that a lot of dedication was actually made to their pet’s food!

    Our recommendation? Look for food brands that have board certified Veterinary Nutritionists or at minimum, people with a PhD in Animal Nutrition on staff.

    Tread cautiously though, because companies use all kinds of slick language to bypass actually saying that they don’t employ people for nutritional formulation and food science.

    You can check your brand here: https://petnutritionalliance.org/resources/pet-food-manufacturer-evaluation-report/ and see if the results line up with what they say on their site.

    If they didn’t reply to the Pet Nutrition Alliance or refused to answer? Run. Transparent companies have nothing to hide.

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    #4 – The “Good” Ingredients List

    Marketing has taught all of us to be very, very wary of the ingredients in our dog food.

    As a matter of fact, it was Blue Buffalo who largely pioneered this concept when they launched their ads showing pet parents how to compare ingredients.

    The problem? Most “good” ingredients lists only look that way because of…you guessed it…marketing gimmicks!

    Not only have companies strategically rearranged their ingredients lists to appeal to pet parents, they have intentionally replaced a few highly nutritious ingredients with “nicer sounding” foods that don’t provide anywhere near the same energy, fiber, protein, fat, mineral, or vitamin content.

    Piggy-backing off the previous section of this blog, it’s important to keep in mind that many of these “nice” sounding ingredients lists and “quality” substitutions are being created and promoted by companies who have no qualified nutritionist on staff.

    This includes Blue Buffalo, who came up with the entire concept of judging a food by the ingredients in the first place but only recently (2022) hired a veterinary nutritionist to correctly formulate their diets.

    Because as we are learning, this is all about marketing.

    Here are some common ways that dog food companies organize their ingredients lists to sell to you.

    #1 – “Meat is the first 5 ingredients!”

    This implies that the food has more meat in it than other foods.

    However, it’s smoke and mirrors. Instead of using 10oz of chicken, they used 2oz of chicken, 2oz of dried chicken, 2oz of chicken liver, 2oz of whitefish, and 2oz of dried lamb.

    The meat content is the same, it’s just been split up. Then all they have to do is split up their grains (by using multiple sources or through ingredient splitting) and other ingredients so that none of those weigh more than any of the meats.

    #2 – “Fresh meat is the first ingredient”

    Fresh meat is heavy, so it’s nearly always at the top of the ingredients list (which is based on weight prior to extrusion).

    Fresh meat is 70% water.

    Companies want you to believe that your dry kibble is loaded with meat because they show you a photo of a beautiful chicken breast and an ingredients list with “real chicken” as the first ingredient.

    But after the fresh chicken is extruded into kibble, the moisture (and thus a solid majority of that heavy fresh meat) is gone. In many cases, the finished kibble will have less fresh meat in it than other ingredients.

    This is why some companies use a meat meal, which is dehydrated before it’s used in the extrusion process and contains a lot more nutrition as a result. A kibble that contains some kind of meat meal or meat by-product meal will always have more meat based protein, amino acids and nutrients in it.

    #3 – “Includes spinach, blueberries, and carrots”

    In an attempt to appeal to consumers who want a ‘fresh’ or ‘holistic’ option, some kibble foods will include a range of fruits and vegetables from spinach to pomegranate and lay claim to the antioxidant benefits.

    The bag will often contain beautiful and colorful photos of these ingredients, too.

    But like fresh meat, fruits and vegetables are mostly water. To meet nutritional requirements, these cannot be too high on the ingredients list, either, otherwise it throws off the density and nutritional balance of the finished dry kibble food. They are nearly always listed near or after salt, indicating that they are less than 1% of the overall formulation.

    As one board certified veterinary nutritionist put it, “it is fairy dust”.

    Skip this and top your dogs food with real fresh fruit and veg. (Up to 5-10% of the overall diet is acceptable for treats and toppers like this).

    #4 Ingredient Splitting

    This common trick allows dog food manufacturers to take a whole ingredient and split it up into multiple parts on the ingredient list.

    This changes our perception of how much of that ingredient is in the food, as it can either be perceived as being “more” (for example, multiple meat sources as in the #1 example above), or “less” (by pushing the now lower-weight ingredients down on the ingredients list).

    You’ve found ingredient splitting when you see a brand utilizing multiple forms of the same ingredient. For example:

    Peas, pea protein, whole peas, pea fiber, pea flour, green peas”

    “Lentils, whole lentils, yellow lentils, green lentils, lentil fiber, lentil flour”

    “Oats, oat groats, milled outs, rolled oats, oat fiber, oat flour”

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    #5 – “Holistic, Super-Premium, Functional, Human Grade”

    There are many common words used by dog food companies to sell their products, and the vast majority of them are completely unregulated terms with absolutely not legal definition.

    Holistic, for example, is often used to indicate a food that is somehow more ‘natural’. It’s a word that has been misused for so long that people associate it with a perception, not an actual meaning. Any food company can grab this word and throw it into their marketing.

    Given how similar 99% of dog foods actually are to each other, even the ‘holistic’ ones, this particular term lacks any real authority to designate one food as ‘healthier’ or ‘higher quality’ than the next.

    Super Premium is another word with no meaning at all. To the point of being laughable. As if being ‘premium’ weren’t enough, THIS food option is SUPER premium, ooooh!

    See my point here? Words like “Super Premium” are there to make you feel some sort of way about the dog food. There is no legal definition for this term either.

    Functional is the new “it” buzzword, courtesy of “Integrative, Functional, Holistic” Veterinarians and practitioners. Honestly though? All food should be functional. It is supposed to support health, right down to the cells.

    I’m honestly concerned that some dog food companies have to tell us their food is ‘functional’ to get our attention.

    Human Grade is complicated. There are some very loose regulations surrounding the use of this word. In theory, the ingredients should be sourced from suppliers where the intention of the food is for human consumption, and made in kitchens that prepare human foods, for example.

    But once ‘human’ food is put into a dog food recipe, it’s no longer human grade as the final product is intended for use by animals. Not humans.

    Food from suppliers intended for use in dog food doesn’t have to be trash; and truthfully, it’s well regulated. Keep in mind that the ‘human’ supply chain is just as susceptible to problems related to salmonella or otherwise.

    Choose companies that have good ethics and practices and don’t waste your money, hopes, and dreams on the overpriced and wasteful ‘human grade’ marketing gimmick.

    Your beloved pet is a dog, not a human. Given the opportunity, they will tear into your trash and happily eat all the guts out of a chicken carcass.

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    Anytime we post an article like this, we get a million questions about “‘well, “ok fine, what SHOULD I feed instead?”

    Do you want the honest answer? Stop looking at the marketing and the ingredients lists. Look around at the literal billions of dogs that are quietly eating and thriving on veterinary recommended food brands. Those brands have qualified nutritionists on staff and dump millions of dollars every year into nutritional research and feeding trials.

    For a comprehensive (and growing) list that addresses common brands/formulas as it relates to large + giant breed puppies (in particular), check out this spreadsheet:

    THE MEGA GREAT DANE FOODS SPREADSHEET

    You can also check your brand against the data in the Pet Nutrition Alliance Database. Notice how many brands only use nutritional consultants, and that’s if they even bothered to include their information in this database.

    THE PET NUTRITION ALLIANCE DOG FOOD DATABASE


    Transparent companies have qualified nutritionists on staff and absolutely nothing to hide.

  • My Great Dane is Aggressive On Leash

    My Great Dane is Aggressive On Leash

    Ah yes. Leash reactivity. If your Great Dane is aggressive on leash, but not necessarily off-leash, this post is for you. Of course, some dogs are are reactive both on and off leash, and this post will have valuable information for them, too!

    Leash aggression is a really frustrating and dangerous problem, especially when it comes to giant breed dogs.

    There is nothing worse than trying to take a peaceful walk when your 140 pound dog makes an absolute fool of himself over another dog or person walking by.

    It’s embarrassing, it causes a lot of anxiety, and the list of scenarios where something goes horribly wrong are pretty insane to think about.

    I don’t know about you, but I have no tolerance for Great Danes being aggressive on a leash. So let’s dig into this.

    Great Dane is aggressive on leash

    What Causes Leash Reactivity

    To better understand how to treat this behavior, we have to look at why it happens in the first place.

    Dogs communicate with other dogs through subtle body language. When stable, well-socialized dogs approach each other, they do so in a non-threatening way by turning their body slightly to the side and keeping their ears, mouth, and tail relaxed and neutral.

    Both dogs watch each other for signs that they are uncomfortable or excited, and the communication between the two dogs continues until one or both make a decision to proceed or walk away.

    Off-leash dogs are able to both express natural non-threatening body language, AND escape and retreat from dogs that show signs of discomfort.

    When a dog cannot escape, or is unable to move forward towards something that they find interesting, scary, or fun, tension from the leash is transferred into the dog via the connection point (collar, harness, etc.).

    As you can imagine, this tension is very, very frustrating.

    Leash reactivity and its root cause are incredibly simple. To put this bluntly, a leash reactive dog is frustrated.

    Making matters worse, the repetition of this cycle of excitement or nervousness paired with the restrictive leash teaches the dog to anticipate tension when seeing another dog (or whatever it is that they tend to react to).

    The anticipation of this tension in and of itself causes many dogs to start bubbling up with negative or frustrated feelings even before the leash becomes tense. It is at this point when owners lose control.

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    What Does Leash Reactivity Look Like?

    Many people think that leash reactivity only means aggression. Of course, dogs that snarl, snap, and lunge on a leash are being aggressive.

    However, for some dogs, leash reactivity presents as nervousness or excitement!

    Some dogs will shut down, pin their ears, lean, and may even spin circles or pull forward trying to protect themselves or leave the situation. These dogs may be perfectly confident off-leash, but being on leash makes them nervous and anxious.

    Other dogs will jump, whine, wiggle, lunge, and basically flip out trying to get out of their collar so they can greet another dog. This too is a form of leash reactivity, even if it’s not aggressive or protective in nature.

    Either way, these behaviors are dangerous. It is very difficult to control a giant breed dog that is nervous, anxious, or frustrated on leash.

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    How to Prevent a Dog From Becoming Leash Reactive

    If you already have a leash reactive dog, this ship has probably sailed but this section will help you better understand how to work towards prevention in the future.

    Here are common reasons why dogs become leash-reactive as they mature:

    • The dog has been allowed to pull, especially early on
    • As a puppy the dog was allowed or even encouraged to approach all people and dogs for “socialization” purposes, even if they were lunging at the end of a leash to do so
    • The dog has spent more time approaching dogs and people off-leash at will than they did learning how to politely ignore dogs while on a leash
    • Poor leash handling/handler skills, including a lack of confidence and direction
    • Incorrect use of training tools including harnesses, collars, electric collars and prong collars
    • Lack of correct socialization (learn more about this in our guide HERE)
    • The dog has an unstable or insecure temperament
    • Excessive force and tension on the leash, coming from the handler, including harsh corrections
    • Boredom (when taking a walk is the most exciting part of the day, dogs will often seek excitement during the walk)
    • Coddling a dog during a reaction or while they are anxious or fearful
    • Rewarding the dog for reacting by removing the thing they are reacting to, or by allowing them access to it (instead of teaching them to ignore it in the first place)

    Some dogs with incredibly stable temperaments can be poorly socialized and never trained and they will be amazing on leash no matter what.

    For many dogs, however, leash reactivity is the result of multiple compounding problems. Remember, it’s rooted in the restrictive and frustrating nature of being on a leash.

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    How to Stop Leash Reactivity in Great Danes

    If you have a leash-reactive Great Dane, it stops here. Now. Today.

    Before you can address leash reactivity, you must prevent it from occurring in the first place. Keep in mind that every time your dog practices the behavior, it is further reinforced.

    Take away the foundation.

    This may mean only walking when no other people are likely to be out, driving somewhere quieter, or finding other forms of enrichment such as a backyard scent work kit or FitPaws-inspired obstacle course.

    This is temporary! In no way should you remove your dog’s access to the world entirely; isolation as a form of training is not a good answer. But for now, you should focus heavily on managing and preventing the behavior.

    Note: If your Great Dane is aggressive on leash and seeks to harm, extra steps must be taken to protect other people and dogs. We highly recommend working with a trainer. Depending on the nature of the aggression, muzzle training may also be warranted.

    6 4

    Step One – Keep Your Reactive Dog Safe & In Control

    In addition to the above considerations, ALL leash reactive dogs must be on secure equipment. Avoid tools that break, are easy to escape from, or that make it difficult to physically control the dog during an outburst. Even if you visit somewhere that the reaction is unlikely to happen, it’s important to keep your dog safe.

    Tools that are NOT appropriate for leash-reactive dogs include:

    • Flat buckle collars, especially the type with a plastic latch
    • Chain/choke collars (harsh correction that tends to escalate reactivity in the wrong hands)
    • Front clip “T” shaped harnesses such as 2-Hounds Freedom or Easy Walk no-pull (adds tension to the shoulders, restricts movement, and are very easy to escape from)
    • Any harness or collar the dog can slip out of
    • Retractable leashes (very dangerous!)
    • Head collars/gentle leaders (for dogs that lunge or pull, these can cause a lot of damage)
    • Cheap shock collars used to harshly correct outbursts (or any electric collar that is used incorrectly)
    • Any kind of leash with a cheap/wimpy clip and/or that is difficult for the handler to hold onto

    Instead, I highly recommend the use of the following tools for dogs that are aggressive or reactive on leash:

    The above tools make it easier to control your dog and won’t allow them to easily pull out of their equipment and escape or act on their frustrations.

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    Step Two – Teach the Correct Alternative Behavior

    Before you can really address leash reactivity, your dog needs a clear picture of what they should be doing instead. If your dog already has great leash skills in general (doesn’t pull, looks at you on command, stops by your side and waits), you can probably skip this step.

    Otherwise, it’s back to basics!

    Start in a low distraction area such as your living room. Use treats, praise, and play to teach your dog to walk by your left side.

    At first, you may have to reward your dog for taking just one step with you. After consistent practice, you should be able to walk all over your house with your dog by your side, no matter how many twists and turns you throw in there!

    This is something you have to teach, and it’s a step many people skip.

    Once your dog understands how to walk by your side on command, practice the skill in your yard or in other areas nearby that are free of distractions. Clip a loose leash to your dog and continue practicing. Don’t forget to add in stops and turns!

    If your dog doesn’t have this basic skill thoroughly installed, you’re going to struggle with addressing leash reactivity. Remember, leash reactivity is caused by tension and if your dog never pulls, there will be no tension.

    Remember to ONLY use the equipment listed above; as you move towards situations where reactivity can happen, it’s important that you can maintain control.

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    Step Three – Re-Socialize Your Reactive Dog

    One of the biggest mistakes people make in puppyhood is that they allow their puppy to pull on the leash and greet all people and dogs at will.

    This causes reactivity and aggression. It has the opposite affect as intended!

    Now imagine your leash reactive Great Dane is a puppy, and we’re going to reset things a bit here.

    Dog training secret: good socialization means learning to ignore distractions in the environment, and to only interact with them when it’s safe and appropriate.

    A dog that has been taught through proper socialization to be indifferent towards dogs and people in the environment (vs rushing up to them and pulling in the process) will not be leash reactive.

    Take your dog out on a longer, loose leash to your front yard or a huge park where you can safely work with your dog but not trigger reactivity, frustration, or anxiety.

    Sit in the grass together. Watch people and dogs walk by. Use praise, treats, and play to reward your dog for engaging with YOU, not dogs and people they see milling about nearby.

    With time, you can gradually close the gap between you and the distractions. Never close that gap more than your dog can currently handle though.

    Pro Tip: Do NOT let well-meaning people approach and ask for a greeting. The goal here is to show the dog that people and dogs in the environment are just ‘there’ and don’t always mean getting to play, lunge, or go nuts.

    The more time you can spend doing this, the better! Replace your daily walk with this activity for even a week and you’ll start to notice a massive improvement in your dog’s ability to ignore reactivity triggers in the environment.

    4 4

    Step Four – Counter-Condition and Desensitize

    The next step is to teach your dog that seeing dogs or other triggers in the environment is actually a positive thing and does NOT result in leash tension.

    If you address leash reactivity by become frustrated, shouting, and popping the leash then YOU are actually part of the problem.

    Start in a place where you see no other dogs or people. Come up with a trigger word such as “pineapple” or “woof”, or use a clicker.

    Engage your dog with you, then say the trigger word or click the clicker, and immediately give your dog a treat. Repeat this several times until your dog will hear the trigger word or the clicker and look at you in anticipation of a reward.

    This is Pavlov! The dog will quickly learn to associate this word with something good. It is very helpful to use this word (or the clicker) several times throughout the day at first, in different places, so your dog learns it thoroughly.

    Pro tip, make sure your dog isn’t doing something they shouldn’t be when you say the trigger word or click!

    Next, go back to the quiet spot on the lawn or a park where you can see dogs and people from afar. As soon as you see one, say your trigger word (or click) and immediately reward your dog!

    With time and repetition, your dog learns that distractions in the environment result in their favorite new word.

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    Step Five – Correct & Redirect

    This is the part people always want to know how to do.

    Correct and redirect. Yes, there is a time and a place for this.

    Enter the Herm Sprenger Prong Collar with a safety clip.

    A properly used Prong collar does not actually poke and stab your dog. Unlike other ‘no-pull’ tools, it actually results in a very clear yes/no communication that is based on even pressure around the neck.

    Because you’ve followed the steps above and worked a lot on teaching the correct behavior and reducing the emotional response to triggers, you can start applying some correct/redirect action.

    To be perfectly honest, no matter how much time you had put into this up to this point, odds are, your reactive dog can absolutely still make a fuss. Don’t be complacent.

    As your dog shows signs that they are able to ignore distractions from 10 or 15 feet away, start taking them to the edge of their comfort level.

    The moment your dog starts to tense up, correct (a tiny wrist-action pop of the prong collar), reward your dog for responding to the correction, and redirect. Remember you can still also use your trigger word/clicker for the positive association as well.

    With time and practice, even the most reactive dog is going to be able to calmly and confidently walk past another dog on a leash! The trick here is to issue the correction (like a tap on the shoulder saying “uh uh, we’re not doing that“) before the reaction becomes an explosion.

    By bringing your dogs focus back to you, you can immediately then ask for a correct behavior, reward your dog, and move on with your day.

    Some trainers and many people skip the first several steps and go straight towards correct and redirect. While this can be effective in the short term, it is my personal belief that a more holistic and comprehensive approach rooted in creating positive associations and resetting socialization experiences will be more beneficial and reliable for all involved.

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    Do you have a Great Dane that is aggressive on a leash? Are you struggling with reactivity?

    Join us in our Facebook community and ask questions, we are here to help!

    Great Dane Owners Support Group

  • Is Victor Dog Food Good for Great Danes?

    Is Victor Dog Food Good for Great Danes?

    You may have seen that the Great Dane community often recommends Victor Dog Food. Is Victor Dog food good for Great Danes? Why is Victor so popular among Dane owners? Can Great Dane puppies eat Victor food?

    We’re bringing you the science, stats, and facts today on choosing Victor dog food and yeah, what I have to say about this may be controversial.

    If you are looking for the best food to feed your Dane, this post is for you. I’ve done the research for you!

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    Is Victor Dog Food Good for Great Danes?

    I’m going to come out and say this, but please make sure to continue reading into the post because I’m backing my stance up with actual science. Here it is:

    Most Victor Formulas are incorrect for Great Danes.

    Many popular Victor dog foods have the WRONG balance of calcium to phosphorus, and contain excessively high levels of calcium to begin with.

    As a matter of fact, here is a list of things that can be caused by incorrectly balanced food and excessive calcium, especially when fed to Great Dane puppies under the age of 2:

    • HOD & Panosteitis
    • Retained cartilaginous cores
    • Disturbed endochondral ossification
    • Delayed skeletal maturation & growth of bone length
    • Abnormal bone remodeling
    • Skeletal disorders such as incorrect hip or elbow development
    • Conformational faults including flat feet (affects dogs of all ages)
    • Heart Disease (affects dogs of all ages)
    • Poor breeding outcomes (including small litter sizes)

    Calcium and skeletal disorders in Great Danes go hand in hand, especially for puppies who are exposed to a high amount of calcium in their diet.

    Are you feeding a Victor dog food that is not correctly balanced for your Great Dane?

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    Calcium, Phosphorus, & Great Dane Puppies

    To understand why many Victor dog food that are commonly recommended in the Dane community are incorrect to feed, we have to first understand what appropriate calcium and phosphorus levels are.

    Great Dane Puppies should be fed a diet with the following ratios:

    • Calcium to phosphorus ratio of 1.2 – 1 or 1:1
    • Calcium guaranteed analysis below 1.3%, and ideally around 1.1%
    • Balanced vitamin D levels
    • Calcium amount below 4.5g per 1000kCAL, and ideally below 3.5g per 1000kCal

    Why does this matter?

    Because study after study shows that excessive intake of calcium, and calcium that isn’t balanced correctly with phosphorus (and vitamin D), leads to skeletal problems and bone growth disorders.

    Too low of calcium is also bad, however, that’s a problem seen primarily in raw and home cooked diets, not in commercially prepared diets that meet AAFCO guidelines.

    Dane Puppies will utilize nearly all of the calcium fed to them, and it is believed that adult giant breed dogs in general are less able to deal with excessive minerals (including calcium) as well. Basically put, if a Great Danes’ food has too much or too little calcium, it can be disastrous for their bone health.

    To further complicate things, nutrients such as vitamin D play a role in the bioavailability of the calcium and phosphorus provided in the diet, and zinc may as well.

    You can read more about calcium & orthopedic growth disorders in large & giant breed dogs HERE.

    Many people believe that knuckling is the only growth disorder that Great Dane puppies face. Knuckling is the most obvious, but not the most dangerous.

    Knuckling results from other nutritional factors, not necessarily just calcium, as knuckling is related to laxity in the tendons and excess weight on underdeveloped joints.

    Just because a puppy doesn’t knuckle and seems to ‘grow fine’ on a particular food, doesn’t mean that food is the best choice.

    Many growth disorders related to nutrition or even genetics are not apparent until the dog is slightly older, in pain, becomes lame, or presents with poor bone health and structural problems.

    Correct structure and build of the Great Dane is part genetics, part nutrition, and part environmental factors.

    Screen Shot 2023 01 18 at 10.34.43 AM
    From the Great Dane Club of America.

    Victor Foods for Great Danes

    While we don’t love any Victor formula (we will cover this more below), there are a few popular foods that, based on calcium content and the CA/PH ratio alone we would not feed.

    This data below is based on the GENERAL analysis, not the Guaranteed Analysis (which Victor gives us very little data on, unfortunately).

    The actual calcium levels may be even higher or lower than listed in the general analysis. It seems that Victor doesn’t do a lot of testing on the actual nutrient levels in their foods, which is also problematic.

    When I inquired with Victor via email to clarify their general analysis information, they directed me to their 800 number instead. The fact that I have to run around in circles to obtain relevant nutrition information in writing is a red flag.

    NameCalciumCA/PH RatioAAFCO Large Breed?
    Victor Professional (Purple Bag)1.76%1.3 to 1Yes
    Victor Multi-Pro (Yellow Bag) 1.71%1.4 to 1Yes
    Victor High Energy (Red Bag)1.69%1.2 to 1Yes
    Victor Hi-Pro Plus (Teal Bag)2.39%1.5 to 1 No
    Victor Beef & Rice1.77%1.4 to 1Yes
    Victor Chicken Meal & Rice1.371.3 to 1Yes
    Victor Grain Free (ANY type)VariesVariesVaries

    Some of the foods listed above DO have the AAFCO statement indicating that they meet the nutritional levels for large breed growth. Essentially this means that their calcium content is less than 1.8% on a dry matter basis.

    In our opinion, 1.8% is MUCH to high for a Great Dane, we like to see 1.2% or less.

    All formulas on that list above, regardless of their AAFCO statement, have unbalanced calcium to phosphorus ratios for Great Danes, with one exception (the Victor Hi-Energy red bag), and even that still has a high calcium content (1.67%).

    It’s important to note that a Hi-Energy formula is meant to provide extra nutrition (in this formulation, they use a lot of fat). Excess nutrition is ALSO linked to orthopedic growth disorders, so that food is another example of one that should not be fed to Great Danes under the age of 2.

    Read more about calcium and phosphorus, and how it affects growth, HERE.

    The two most popular foods also have high calcium levels as a whole, which exceed the recommended safe upper limit of 4.5g per 1000kCal.

    • Victor Professional at 4.7g per 1000kCal
    • Victor Beef & Rice at 5.4g per 1000kCal

    Both of those formulas are popular among Dane owners who feed them to puppies, and we’re not sure why. The analysis alone goes against every reasonable guideline on the topic.

    There is one food that I found among Victor foods that has a small label on it indicating that it’s for ‘big dogs’. That is the Elite Canine, green bag. It has a calcium to phosphorus ratio of 1.3 to 1 or 1.2 to 1 (depending on the analysis), approximately 3.4g per 1000kCal, and is an “all life stages” formula (essentially, this is puppy food).

    Do not go running to get that formula without finishing this blog post, though, as Elite may also be problematic!

    Victor 5lb ELITE CANINE NEW51 1

    Is Victor Dog Food Good?

    We don’t like to food bash around here.

    One of my biggest pet peeves in the dog focused social communities are statements such as:

    • The food is full of fillers and trash
    • Never feed ‘grocery story’ or ‘cheap food’
    • I would never feed my dog corn and slaughterhouse waste
    • Danes are expensive, you MUST feed a ‘premium’ food
    • That’s like feeding your dog McDonald’s!
    • Veterinarians have no training and receive kickbacks
    • There have been “no recalls” so it must be good
    • The FDA said the DCM grain free link was debunked!

    Truth time: all of those statements above are based on misinformation and classism. The misinformation that leads to these statements is often dangerous and frustrating, too. (I’ll be covering each in different blog posts).

    We have no tolerance for bashing foods that are correctly balanced and at a price point that dog owners can afford. A lot of marketing goes into ‘premium’ pet foods to make us feel like they are healthier or better for our pets, but it’s all marketing.

    Of course, you want to choose the best option for your budget, and that is where science and information comes into play. Many people choose Victor because it’s marketed as “Super Premium” and comes at a reasonable price point.


    You will notice that we don’t food bash, but we DO point out legitimate factors to consider when choosing nutrition for your pet. We look past marketing and past a lot of the needless, inflammatory, and misguided statements listed above.

    See the most recent recall on Victor food here

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    Should I Feed Victor Dog Food to a Great Dane?

    Here are some other legitimate factors to consider when choosing a food like Victor to feed your Great Dane.

    Victor Foods does not staff a qualified nutrition professional.

    At least one of these people should be on staff for the brand itself:

    To put this simply, the “head chef” at Victor Pet foods has an animal science degree buffered by a simple, inexpensive online certificate in companion animals, from an organization focused primarily on livestock. He does not have even basic nutrition credentials, let alone a veterinary background.

    While Victor does collaborate with consultants, they aren’t clear about the scope of that relationship or the qualifications of the consultants.

    It’s important to understand that most times, what this really means is that a recipe in written form was signed-off by a 3rd party, or tested in an off-site lab for verification of nutrient content.

    Just because a food meets AAFCO minimums, does not mean it was thoughtfully and professionally designed to provide optimum nutrition. For giant breed dogs, this is an important consideration as they have very particular nutritional requirements.

    One of the greatest faults of many dog food brands is that they don’t have formulas which were designed and tested specifically to properly support large and giant breed growth.

    Of course, some dog foods have the correct ratios, but were they designed for that purpose? Or do they just happen to meet the AAFCO minimum guidelines on paper?

    We prefer foods that were developed, by qualified nutritionists, specifically to support the slow, even growth and healthy bone development of large and giant breed puppies.

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    Calcium Levels & Great Dane Puppy Growth

    The science of calcium and the calcium, phosphorus, vitamin D link to bone growth issues and poor bone modeling becomes more and more clear as research is done.

    Here is a study that found puppies under 6 months of age were most susceptible to inconsistent calcium levels: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12118666/


    Here is another resource, a well-cited paper regarding nutrient levels and feeding large or giant breed puppies.

    When we look at food brands that have qualified nutrition staff, who do feeding trials, and who do a lot of research, we see MUCH different analysis from their large and giant breed formulas than we see from most, if not all Victor formulas.

    Science-backed companies have cutting-edge nutritional profiles and their formulas should be the baseline upon which other true large and giant breed puppy formulas are built.

    When I’m choosing food for a Great Dane puppy, I want food that most closely matches the brands who have qualified nutritionists, do feeding trials, and publish actual research on this topic. (Or better yet, feed the brands backed by actual science and research).

    Unfortunately, Victor foods does not meet any of these basic requirements and most (if not all) of their formulas end up missing the mark. Notice how the Victor formula is lower in protein, much higher in fat, and higher in calcium, too.

    A note about protein: many people choose food for their Great Dane based off the protein level. This is an outdated practice with many studies showing that the protein level is not a factor in the development of growth disorders.

    Too low of protein can actually be detrimental to proper growth, and may result in excessive intake of calcium.

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    Do Great Danes Do Well on Victor Food?

    Anecdotally, many people cite that their Great Dane does well on Victor foods. Fixing an issue with chronic loose stools seems to be a common positive comment that we see from Dane owners who switched to Victor.

    Many Victor dog food formulas contain inulin (a prebiotic) and probiotics, so this isn’t a surprise.

    Good stools happen on many other brands as well. While good gut health is super important, it’s not the only sign of good health, however.

    Many dogs with shiny coats and perfect stools die in their sleep from unchecked heart disease that presented with very few symptoms. When evaluating the health of the dog, we’re not just looking for good stools.

    Additionally, most Great Dane owners are unable to properly evaluate their dogs movement and structure. As a result may not see an issue with poor angulation, wonky movement, swollen knuckles, turned out limbs, or flat and splayed feet. These are all things where genetics, environment, and nutrition play a role.

    For perspective, check out this young Great Dane. In the first image, she’s being fed Victor foods. Notice her feet after being switched to a more appropriate food. She no longer has swollen ankles, and her feet are providing a much better, stronger platform to support her weight.

    This was a positive and notable change for multiple dogs in this same breeding program, not just the one in this photo. I know this dog personally and her feet improved in a matter of 2 weeks on the food switch.

    Does Victor Dog Food Cause Breeding Issues?

    We prefer to rely on science rather than anecdotes, but we should note that MANY reproductive veterinarians advise clients to stay away from Victor foods and recommend using well-researched, specially designed formulas from Pro Plan and Royal Canin instead.

    Anecdotally, there is a huge volume of reports from breeders whose dogs were struggling on Victor. Low birth weights, stillbirth, and small litter sizes are just some of the suspicious volume of noted complaints.

    This problem could be related to certain ingredients, bioavailability, or the nutritional balance of protein, fat & carbs.

    We will never know, however, because Victor does NOT do any research and does not perform any feeding trials.

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    Does Victor Dog Food Cause DCM?

    Many studies have shown, on repeat, that there are two main factors contributing to dogs developing heart disease (DCM) from dog food.

    1. An abundance of peas, potatoes, chickpeas, sweet potatoes, or similar legumes used in the first 10 ingredients.
    2. Foods that do not have a board certified Veterinary Nutritionist (DACVN) or PhD in Animal Nutrition on staff to formulate the foods (incorrect formulation).

    It’s not about being ‘grain free’. There are confirmed cases of DCM on all kinds of foods, with or without grains.

    There is a lot of misinformation about grain-free dog foods and DCM.

    For a comprehensive look at DCM and dog food, check out this non-biased (contains no ads, sales pitches, affiliate links, or food shaming) timeline of events.

    Think the FDA debunked the grain-free DCM food link? Think again.

    We do not believe that all Victor dog foods will cause heart disease, but, we encourage all Dane owners to stay away from Grain Free foods of all types. Here is an ingredients list from Victor Grain-Free.

    Notice how peas and sweet potato make up a huge portion of this diet. Peas in particular have been shown to be problematic when used in large amounts. For more information on nutritional DCM, READ HERE.

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    Does Hello Danes Recommend Victor Dog Food?

    We do not.

    The lack of qualified formulation staff and unbalanced calcium levels should give dog owners pause about considering this food for their Great Dane.

    Of course, if it works for you and you love it, we’re not going to bash you for feeding it. We do however, want to make sure you are well-equipped with legitimate information.

    If you wish to use Victor foods, keep in mind that the green bag, Elite Canine, is the only grain-inclusive formula by Victor that is actually balanced correctly for giant breed dogs. It does list peas in the first 4 ingredients, however, which is a risk factor for nutritional DCM. We do not recommend this food.

    For our list of professionally formulated foods that fully meet guidelines and recommendations, go HERE.

  • What are By-Products in Dog Food?

    What are By-Products in Dog Food?

    In the world of pet nutrition, the mention of byproducts in pet food often raises eyebrows and sparks concern among pet owners. We’ve all seen the commentary about by-products in dog food being “leftovers scraped off the slaughterhouse floor”. (Spoiler alert, that’s propaganda, not truth).

    It’s essential to put initial apprehensions behind when reading this blog post because I’m about to change your understanding of by-products!

    When sourced from companies committed to rigorous scientific standards and uncompromising quality, these ingredients can be a valuable and nutritious choice for your pet’s diet. Do I even say that by-products are biologically appropriate for dogs? Yeah, I’m going to go there.

    In this blog post, we will explore the often misunderstood realm of byproducts in pet food, shedding light on predatory pet food marketing, misinformation, and nonsense in the dog nutrition industry.

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    What are By-Products in Dog Food?

    Here is a list of things that you may see on your dog food label which indicates that by-products have been used in the formula:

    • Meat By-Product Meal
    • Chicken By-Product Meal
    • Meat By-Products
    • Liver, Kidney, Lung, Heart, Tongue, or Spleen in any form
    • Brewer’s Rice
    • Cartilage
    • Bone Meal
    • Blood Meal
    • Beef Cheek
    • Beef Pizzle
    • Chicken Paws
    • Gelatin
    • Fat

    You may be surprised to learn that many dog foods and dog treats contain by-products, even if they aren’t labeled as such.

    Brewer’s Rice is a by-product. It’s the tiny bits of rice left over from milling. They have the same nutritional value as whole pieces of rice, but aren’t ‘pretty’ so they are sorted out and sold as an inexpensive by-product.

    Author’s Note: the EU (European Union) defines by-products differently than the U.S. This is simply a matter of language and semantics; however, the concept remains the same. For this post as a U.S.-based blog, we are using ‘By-Products’ somewhat interchangeably with ‘Co-Products’ to avoid confusion.

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    Are By-Products in Dog Food Bad?

    The word ‘by-products’ conjures up visions of trash, scraps, and junk scraped off the factory floor. Many people have a visceral reaction to the word ‘by-products’ and will say they would never dream of feeding them to their dog.

    This always makes me chuckle because many of these same people will turn around and offer their dog a freeze-dried liver treat, bully stick, or bowl full of raw dog food (which is loaded with by-products such as spleen, cartilage, and bone).

    The actual definition of a by-product is simply this: “an incidental or secondary product made in the manufacture or synthesis of something else”.

    Oxford Languages

    Cream of Tartar, commonly used in Snickerdoodle cookies, is a natural by-product of winemaking!

    Whey, commonly used for its generous protein content, is a by-product of cheesemaking.

    Rennet, which is necessary to make many cheeses, is a by-product coming from the stomach of ruminant animals.

    Leather is a by-product (co-product) of the beef industry.

    Whether you like it or not, if you feed your dog the following items you are feeding by-products:

    • Bully stick / Beef Pizzle (which is made from bull penis)
    • Freeze-dried liver or other organs
    • Chicken paws
    • Poultry necks
    • Freeze-dried duck heads
    • Pig ears
    • Spleen, heart, kidney, lung, etc.
    • Eggshells

    By-products (co-products) are found in many places, not just pet foods! Many by-products we humans use and consume daily are not labeled as by-products (or co-products), but that’s what they are.

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    What is the By-Product Meal in Dog Food?

    Here is where we can dig into this discussion. Chicken By-Product meal is the first ingredient in one of our most commonly recommended foods, Royal Canin Giant Breed.

    That word ‘by-products’ sounds gross and cheap, when really, it’s exactly what a dog needs in their diet. Allow me to explain.

    If you give a dog a whole dead chicken, they will first dig into the organs. They also want the bones, tendons, and cartilage. Then some fat and skin. Finally they will eat the muscle meat.

    Dogs need meat, bone, organ, and cartilage in their diet. These things are incredibly nutritious!

    When you see “chicken by-product meal”, you are seeing an ingredient that contains a nutritious dehydrated meal made of those things: meat, bone, organ, and cartilage.

    These ingredients come from the chicken meat processing industry. They are considered ‘by-products’ because unlike chicken wings or breasts, they are not widely consumed by humans.

    By utilizing by-products in pet food, we’re making a conscious, eco-friendly choice to reduce the impact that our diets and our pet’s diets have on the Earth.

    Now think of the dog food brands that rely on “fresh meats”. Those are brands that intentionally turn away the nutritious parts of the slaughtered animals such as the bones, organs, and cartilage.

    They are not only being wasteful, but they are ignoring valuable nutrition.

    AAFCO defines meat by-products as follows: “rendered product from mammal tissues, exclusive of any added hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach, and rumen contents”.

    While you may have read that ‘by-products’ in pet food are “slaughterhouse waste full of hooves, hair, beaks, and feet“, it’s not true.

    What is Meat Meal in Dog Food?

    To better understand meat meals, it’s helpful to understand first how extruded kibble products work.

    Fresh meat (which may be labeled as “fresh chicken, deboned lamb, grass-fed beef” or similar) is around 70% water content.

    In other words, fresh meat is heavy, but mostly because it contains so much water. This is what allows the dog food company to place “fresh meat” as the first ingredient.

    However, once the kibble is extruded (cooked) and the moisture content is significantly reduced, the actual amount of meat left in the finished kibble is much less than you think. Remember that a finished kibble is a dry product with very low moisture content.

    Enter meat meal.

    Meat meals are an ingredient that was developed to solve this problem. If you want your dog’s kibble to have a legitimate amount of animal-based nutrition in it, you want to see “meat meal” or “meat by-product meal” in the ingredients list!

    Meat meals have been shown in studies to reduce the risk of bloat in dogs!

    To make a meat meal, the manufacturer ‘renders’ animal products (including muscle meat, tissue, cartilage, bones, and organs) to remove the fat and moisture.

    The finished product is a nutrient-dense dry ingredient that is easy to store and incorporate as a primary ingredient in a dry, extruded kibble. It is incredibly high in protein and amino acids, especially when compared to fresh meat (by volume).

    You can think of ‘meat meal’ (including ‘by-product meal’) as a protein powder of sorts. However, instead of mixing it up in a blender bottle after a workout (as you might do with your whey protein), the dog food manufacturer is turning it into a nutritious, chewable finished product.

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    What is in the By-Product Meal in Pet Food?

    Now that we understand the difference between fresh meat and meat meal, and we understand what by-products are (“co-products”), we can dig a little deeper into what a by-product meal is.

    Dog food companies are NOT required to state what is in their meat meals specifically, but there are important guidelines they must follow regarding what is and is not allowed in pet food.

    No matter what nonsense you read on the internet, there should be no feet, beaks, hair, hooves, or euthanized pets scraped off of a slaughterhouse floor in your dog food.

    Royal Canin, who is widely known for its use of chicken by-product meals, talks about this topic directly from HERE. Their by-product meal utilizes all acceptable and nutritious parts of the chicken; the same ingredients a dog would eat when offered a whole raw chicken.

    Royal Canin employs a massive team of veterinary nutritionists and food scientists and has made massive contributions to veterinary science, medicine, health, and research.

    They are known for turning away entire truckloads of ingredients that didn’t meet their strict standards. Not only that, Royal Canin has directly stated that they refuse to relabel their products to follow trends.

    Honest trust time: the only people who continue to perpetuate this idea that by-products are bad, are people who are trying to sell you something.

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    Should Dog Food Companies List Ingredients Separately?

    Some people believe that instead of saying “chicken by-product meal” manufacturers should be forced to list what is in the meal, specifically.

    For example, they might say instead “bone meal, dehydrated liver, dehydrated spleen, dehydrated lung”.

    We understand the point here, however, remember this: they cannot put slaughterhouse trash, hooves, beaks, and feet into their by-product meal. The things you are likely concerned about, don’t exist in a properly formulated and thoughtfully sourced food.

    If you believe a company is trying to ‘hide something’ (such as feet or beaks or intestinal contents) by listing a “by-product meal” instead of the individual ingredients within that meal, consider this.

    Ingredient splitting is the practice of splitting up whole ingredients into multiple parts on the ingredients list to deceive you.

    Instead of saying “peas”, some brands will say “whole peas, pea protein, green peas, pea fiber, whole yellow peas”. Or instead of saying “lentils” they will say “whole lentils, green lentils, lentil fiber, red lentils, lentil flour”.

    All on the same ingredients list. Because ingredients must be listed by weight before extrusion, this allows the company to artificially change your perception of how many peas or lentils are in the food. Splitting reduces their weight and moves them down the ingredients list.

    Manufacturers use a lot of deceptive practices, and choosing to indicate that they use a “by-product meal” instead of splitting it up for you on the ingredients label is not one of them.

    By-product meal is an ingredient, and as a regulated ingredient, it’s not full of trash and junk.

    The companies who use a lot of intentionally deceptive ingredient splitting are often the same companies who tell you by-products are bad. The bigger question here is this: what are they trying to hide?

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    Pet Food Marketing – It’s Shady Business

    There are thousands of dog food brands and formulas available to choose from. Many of them are made by marketing companies, who design a fancy eye-catching bag and website and then have their food concept manufactured by a co-packing plant.

    The dog food industry is a huge one, with sales in the BILLIONS! For small companies to get a piece of that pie, they have to work pretty hard to be seen.

    In other words, many dog food companies will say what they have to say to get your attention.

    Walk into any pet store and it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the volume of options. Everything is colorful and eye-catching, and sales reps lurk around every corner to get your attention on whatever brand they are trying to sell that week.

    Here are some common marketing phrases and pet food trends you may have heard of:

    • Holistic
    • No By-Products
    • No Meat Meals
    • No Fillers
    • Grain-Free
    • Whole Food Ingredients
    • Fresh Meat as the 1st Ingredient
    • Gluten-Free
    • Keto / Low Carb

    There is a lot of misinformation and general nonsense floating around the internet regarding pet food, and we’re here to help you sort through all of it. We cannot wait to cover each of these topics individually so that you can be an educated and savvy consumer when it comes to choosing foods for your pet!

    Until then, don’t be afraid of meat meal or meat by-product meal in your pet’s food.

  • Male Versus Female Great Dane Puppy, 5 Things to Consider

    Male Versus Female Great Dane Puppy, 5 Things to Consider

    If you are ready to bring a new Great Dane into your home, you may be trying to sort out if buying a boy or a girl will be the better choice for you. I’m going to deep dive into this topic, and help you make the ultimate decision: Male versus Female Great Dane puppy.

    Which one is right for you?

    male versus female great dane puppy

    Male Versus Female Great Dane Puppy Size

    We’re going to over a few key differences between male and female Danes, including size, temperament, and what to expect.

    As a general rule, male Great Danes are actually significantly bigger, beefier, and taller than the girls are with huge feet, broad chests, and giant heads.

    When you are considering a Great Dane puppy, you have to take this into account. Some people prefer a bigger dog, others would like a pet that isn’t going to take up so much room in the car!

    It’s important to note, however, that although females are generally more petite, they are still very strong giant breed dogs.

    Diligent training, proper nutrition, joint care, and the higher costs associated with big dogs (including grooming, bedding, and veterinary care) will still be at play.

    Male Great Danes can be up to 36″ at the shoulder and 180 lbs, while female Great Danes can be up to 34″ at the shoulder and up to 140 lbs. Some petite Great Danes can be as small as 100 lbs and 32″ at the shoulder.

    Before you purchase or adopt ANY giant breed dog, do your research. One of the biggest reasons that people surrender Great Danes to rescue is that they are surprised how big their cute puppy got.

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    Male vs. Female Great Dane Personalities

    The written standard for Great Danes calls for a courageous and friendly dog.

    They should never be timid, fearful, or aggressive as these traits make them unstable and a danger to themselves and others.

    A well-bred Great Dane will make a great family dog, no matter if it’s male or female!

    Female Great Danes tend to be more independent, while male Great Danes tend to be more clingy.

    While there are exceptions to every rule, there is a general trend here. Female Great Danes are more likely to have a mature, independent attitude while males tend to be giant babies who worship the ground you walk on.

    Both will be affectionate and loving, but it’s well known in the Great Dane community that males will be more likely to suffocate you with affection.

    If that’s your jam, get a male! If you like a good balance, get a female. Then keep your fingers crossed because every Dane is different and you don’t know what you’re going to get until they are fully mature.

    Both dogs should be family and people oriented, either way. Great Danes can also be great with kids!

    Make sure you choose an ethical breeder with a long history of stable, well-built dogs.

    instagram.com/deardanes
    www.instagram.com/deardanes

    Reproductive Hormones, Spay & Neuter

    Some of the biggest differences between male and female Great Danes are related to their sexual hormones and reproductive system. When you are bringing a giant breed dog into your home, everything about this is exaggerated.

    If you don’t like the nitty gritty, skip this section, but I believe it’s one of the most important.

    Keep in mind that the current recommendation is that giant breed dogs should not be spayed or neutered until 18-24 months of age.

    Let’s jump in.

    Male Great Danes have large balls. This is alarming to people, and some people are even grossed out by it (especially as they love to scoot back and sit on your lap!).

    They also tend to release smegma (a cheesy substance) and random drips, which show up on the hard floors of your home after a few days of not mopping.

    If a female dog of any type or size is nearby and in heat, your intact male may absolutely lose his mind trying to get to her. This requires diligence, strict management, and patience. He may even lose weight, shred walls, mark in your home, and jump fences.

    Lastly, intact males don’t always get along well with other intact males. Poor breeding can lead to dogs who don’t handle their testosterone well and develop bad behaviors such as marking and aggression. Talk to your veterinarian and a highly qualified dog trainer.

    Don’t let these things scare you, though! A well-trained male Great Dane with a good temperament will be friendly and social whether they are intact or not. Don’t believe me? Just attend a dog show and see tons of intact male Danes in the same place, all well-behaved and calm.

    male vs. female great dane

    Female Great Danes will experience a heat cycle every 6-12 months on average, starting around 8 months of age. This cycle lasts and 2-3 weeks, and when she ovulates during this cycle she is HIGHLY susceptible to becoming pregnant.

    It’s important to note that while ovulation is the time when a dog is most susceptible to pregnancy, sperm can live for up to a week in the reproductive tract and thus, diligent steps must be taken to prevent mating during the entirety of the heat cycle.

    A heat cycle can be messy as the dog will bleed for the entirety of this time. All of their reproductive organs will swell, and in some cases, the female may even experience a false pregnancy.

    Some females may also become cranky, whiny, and will even mark in the house.

    It is highly unethical to breed a dog without full OFA health testing and proof that the dog has good structure and a stable temperament. Accidental pregnancies are avoidable but all to common.

    Having an intact giant breed dog is a huge responsibility. Literally.

    To handle a female Great Dane while in heat, we recommend size XL reusable dog diapers, lined with period pads or disposable dog diapers.

    PRO TIP: It is smart to introduce a Great Dane puppy to these items before they experience their first heat cycle! Consider putting them on your puppy as early as 2-3 months of age, just to practice.

    This way they are used to it and not bothered by the diaper when the time comes!

    Great Danes

    Male vs. Female Great Dane Lifespan

    In general, because male Great Danes are larger, they are also more susceptible to problems with their joints and their heart that can lead to a shorter lifespan. Statistically speaking, males are also more likely to experience bloat.

    Aggression, stress, and fear in both males and females can shorten their lifespan, making it that much more important to choose a diligent and dedicated breeder.

    No matter which you choose, it’s important to focus on up to date training, nutrition, socialization, and health practices. We share a lot of this information on our blog and in our online community!

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    Should I Get Two Great Dane Puppies at the Same Time?

    Many people can’t decide between a male and female puppy, or fall in love with two pups from the same litter, however, this practice is not recommended.

    Littermate syndrome is when two dogs who were raised together become co-dependent on each other. This relationship can cause major training issues, as well as aggression that can only be cured by fully separating the dogs from each other for life.

    This is not to say that you can’t ever successfully raise two puppies together at the same time, but for the vast majority of owners it’s not the most ideal choice. It’s important to note that ethical and responsible breeders will only sell multiple puppies at once to experienced homes that participate in training, dog shows, and dog sports.

    The practice of upselling new owners to purchase a second puppy is a backyard breeding practice, no matter how ‘nice’ the breeder seems.

    If you choose to bring home two puppies at the same time, here are some tips:

    • If you choose one male and one female, plan to send the male to another home each time the female is in heat, no exceptions. Accidental pregnancies are not cool, especially between siblings! Plus, this is very stressful to the male and he will be happier and safer elsewhere.
    • If you choose two males or two females, talk to a dog trainer about same-sex aggression and learn how to prevent it
    • Talk to a dog trainer for tips to prevent littermate syndrome, including taking the puppies to separate training classes, socializing and training them independently, feeding them in different places, and developing a personal relationship with each individually.

  • Getting a Puppy: The Good, The Bad, The Unexpected and The Inevitable

    Getting a Puppy: The Good, The Bad, The Unexpected and The Inevitable

    Bringing home a puppy is exciting and full of potential, but it’s also a big commitment that comes with many challenges. Before you bring your four-legged friend home, it’s important to understand the good, the bad, and the unexpected that come along with owning a pet.

    Top Ten Things to Know When Getting a Puppy

    Bringing a puppy home is a big decision and should never be taken lightly.

    If your family has decided that a puppy is the right fit, it’s important to do some research and know what to expect. Here are ten things you should be aware of and research when getting a pup:

    1. Puppy Food
    2. Puppy Training Tips
    3. All The Supplies a Puppy Might Need
    4. The Time and Commitment New Puppies Require
    5. Learn About Your Puppy’s Health
    6. Potty Training Your Puppy
    7. Keeping Your Puppy Clean
    8. Puppies Chew!
    9. Crate Training
    10. Are Your Family Members On Board?

    Puppy Food

    Your puppy requires different dog food than the other pets in your home. As your puppy grows, new pet parents will need to research the right dog food and puppy treats to provide their new canine companion.

    No, a new pup should NOT be on the same food as an adult dog. Puppies require PUPPY food and should NOT be on adult dog food.

    Pet parents should do their research and speak with their veterinarians about what is the best option to feed their new puppy.

    Puppy Training Tips

    Getting a dog trainer to help train your puppy is a vital part of having your first puppy.

    A young puppy is not going to turn into a well behaved dog overnight.

    To help your puppy grow up into a loyal and dedicated member of your family and society, you need to be consistent with your training and set aside time every day to practice.

    You will also want to look into puppy classes and other activities that can help socialize your pup.

    When hiring a dog trainer, look for one that always uses positive reinforcement AND helps your dog understand right from wrong. This is called balanced training and will help your canine companion become accustomed to life.

    All The Supplies a Puppy Might Need

    A new puppy is not cheap. New pet parents should set aside money monthly to save up for their new puppy. Puppy essentials add up. There are lots of items that a new puppy needs to be successful.

    Puppy gates, food and water bowls, grooming supplies.. the list goes on. Puppy parents should research these items to get the best ones for their pup and their budget.

    New Puppy Checklist

    A new puppy checklist is important for dog parents to figure out what they might need to buy when bringing home a new puppy.

    Puppy supplies included on a new puppy checklist include:

    1. Grooming Tools: Nail clippers, puppy shampoo / dog shampoo, baby wipes, poop bags,
    2. Puppy Toys: Dog toys to help your puppy succeed at teething, a chew toy (or a bunch!),
    3. Baby Gates: Help your puppy stay safe in the house (and keep your carpets clean!)
    4. Food and Water Bowls: Opt for a ceramic set and clean often.
    5. Dog Bed: A bed your pup can call their own. You may want to start off with a dog bed that is cheaper incase those puppy teeth go at it, and then move to something orthopedic like a Big Barker once you trust your new puppy more.
    6. Crate/Kennel: Opt for one that is big enough so they can move around in it but still feel secure.
    7. Leash, Harness and Collar Set: Choose one that fits your puppy’s neck size, being careful not to pull too tight.
    8. Treats: Most puppies will thrive on training with treats or a good chew toy. Low calorie treats can help significantly with teething puppies and house training.

    The Time and Commitment New Puppies Require

    Raising a puppy requires lots of time, patience, consistency and dedication from all family members involved.

    A puppy is not like a stuffed animal that you can just leave in a corner or a dog crate when you want to be gone all day and all night.

    Get informed about the time that dogs actually require before getting one. Puppies will need to be taken out for walks and potty breaks, get lots of playtime, and require attention from their humans.

    If you are not sure if your lifestyle allows you the time it takes to own a puppy, consider doing some research before adopting or buying your new pet.

    By understanding what is needed to raise a healthy and well-behaved puppy, you can be sure that you are the right fit for your new furry friend.

    Learn About Your Puppy’s Health

    Canine companions are not all fun and games. With adorable puppies comes a LOT of vet bills.

    Pet insurance early on can help to mitigate the cost of a new dog.

    When looking for pet insurance, find a plan that covers both routine visits and emergency medical services.

    It is also important to learn about the breed of your puppy. Knowing their common health concerns and needs can help you prevent problems or catch them early on.

    Your veterinarian is always a great resource if you have any questions regarding your pup’s health. They will be able to provide advice on what pet insurance would be best for your puppy.

    Potty Training Your Puppy

    Potty training is probably one of the toughest things to help your puppy learn.

    Be prepared with all the essentials to help your puppy learn to use the bathroom in the right spot. This includes puppy pads, a designated potty area, and lots of patience.

    Consistency is key when it comes to potty training your pup. Take them out on regular intervals, give them verbal cues such as ‘go potty’ so they understand what you are asking of them and reward them with treats when they go in the right spot.

    Lastly, never punish a puppy for having an accident as they are still learning. Be patient and understanding while teaching your puppy this important skill.

    Keeping Your Puppy Clean

    You can puppy proof all you want, but it is inevitable that you are going to have a mess if you have a dog or puppy. Dog hair, accidents, and muddy paw prints are just part of it.

    It is important to keep your puppy clean and hygienic in order to prevent any health issues.

    A regular bath schedule (not too often!) with specific dog shampoo should be kept, as well as brushing your puppy regularly and cleaning their ears. Baby wipes also come in handy for quick clean ups in between baths.

    Finally, always remember to check their paws after they have been outside playing or walking, as dirt can build up and cause problems if left untreated.

    Puppies Chew!

    Puppies love to chew things up. If you have your own space with valuable items, it is YOUR responsibility to keep your puppy safe from that area, not theirs!

    Using a dog crate is a fantastic way to keep your pup safe and secure.

    In addition, providing chew toys can help keep them distracted from the items that could cause harm.

    The best chew toys are those made of rubber or nylon as they are harder for puppies to destroy and safer if swallowed than rawhide chews.

    Crate Training

    A dog crate is the perfect way to provide a safe and secure place for your puppy.

    Crate training is great for teaching puppies how to stay in one area, sleep through the night without having accidents, and learning when it’s time to be quiet.

    It is important that you start crate training as soon as possible with your new pup.

    Are Your Family Members On Board?

    Making sure that all members of your family are on board when you decide to bring home a new dog is of utmost importance.

    Otherwise, it can be difficult to create a harmonious environment at home.

    Talk with all members of your family to make sure that everyone is aware of what needs to be done and is willing to take part in the pup’s care.

    From potty training to feeding schedules, having everyone on the same page will help ensure your puppy’s successful transition into your family.

    Commonly Asked Puppy Questions from New Puppy Parents

    With puppies, come many questions! Here are some of the most commonly asked questions from new puppy parents.

    Where should a puppy sleep the first night?

    Starting your puppy off the first night in their new routine is important. But, remember that a puppy can not go longer than a few hours without a potty break.

    So, it is recommended to create a safe space for them in their crate and set an alarm for every two hours to take the pup outside to go potty.

    What are the first things to do when you get a puppy?

    The first things to do when you get a puppy include setting up the puppy’s sleeping area, establishing a feeding schedule, and introducing them to their potty spot.

    It is also important to start socializing your puppy and enrolling them in an obedience class.

    Finally, remember that puppies needs lots of love and attention , so make sure to spend quality time with them!

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    What should I know before getting a puppy?

    Before getting a puppy, it is important to know what type of breed best fits your lifestyle, and whether you are ready to make the commitment that comes with owning a dog.

    Puppies need lots of attention, exercise, and training in order to stay healthy and happy. It is also important to have a plan for potty training and prevention of destructive behavior.

    In addition, you should research what type of supplies you will need to have on hand for your new pup. This includes a crate, food and water bowls, chew toys, grooming supplies, and more!

    Finally, make sure to budget for regular vet visits and potential medical costs that may arise.

    How much money should I save up before getting a dog?

    It is recommended to save up at least $1000 before getting a puppy. This money can go towards supplies such as food, treats, toys, and a crate; as well as costs associated with vet visits and potential medical expenses that may arise.

    Having this money saved up ahead of time will help you be prepared for any unexpected costs.

    How long can a puppy be left alone?

    The rule of thumb for puppies going without potty breaks is about one hour for every month of age.

    So, a three-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than three hours. However, it is important to note that puppies need lots of attention, so it is best to limit their alone-time as much as possible.

    It is also recommended to have someone watch your puppy for you if you will be gone for any length of time. A pet sitter can help to make sure to keep your dog safe if you will be gone longer than the recommended amount of time.

    Following these steps and doing the necessary research before bringing home a new pup can help ensure that both you and your pup have a positive transition to their new home. With patience, love, and dedication, owning a puppy can be an incredibly rewarding experience!

    Should you let a puppy cry at night?

    No, you should not let your puppy cry at night.

    Puppies may cry during their first few nights in a new home as they adjust to their new environment, so it is important to provide comfort and reassurance. Taking them outside for potty breaks (every two hours) and giving them a safe space to sleep can help them feel more secure and can reduce the amount of crying.

    Giving your pup lots of love and attention during their first few nights in a new home will also help to make them feel safe and secure. With patience, consistency, and plenty of positive reinforcement, you can ensure that your puppy has a smooth transition into their new home.

    What to consider before buying a dog?

    Before buying a dog, it is important to consider your lifestyle and make sure you are ready for the commitment that comes with owning a new puppy. You should also research what type of breed best fits your lifestyle and be prepared to purchase all necessary supplies such as food bowls, a crate, toys, grooming supplies and more. Don’

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  • Why Do Dogs Mark? The Mystery Behind the Male Dog Peeing 100 Times Per Day

    Why Do Dogs Mark? The Mystery Behind the Male Dog Peeing 100 Times Per Day

    There is nothing quite like coming home to a house that has been flooded with your furry friend’s urine or feces.

    While owning a dog can bring immense joy, one of the less desirable behaviors they can exhibit is marking in the house. This behavior involves a dog urinating or defecating on surfaces such as furniture, carpets, walls, and even on people. It can be incredibly frustrating for owners to deal with this type of behavior; however, understanding why it occurs can help with developing strategies to control or prevent it from happening. 

    What Exactly is Marking and Why Do Dogs Mark?? 

    Marking is when dogs urinate or defecate in order to establish their territory and show dominance over other animals and people. They may also do this as a sign of stress or anxiety. If your dog begins to mark inside your home, it could be because of changes in the environment such as new furniture, visitors coming over, or even other pets joining the family. 

    Recognizing When Your Dog is About to Mark 

    If you want to prevent your pup from marking their territory in the house, keep an eye out for any suspicious behavior! They may start sniffing around like a bloodhound on a search and rescue mission; or they might even give themselves away by lifting its leg up onto furniture – it’s almost as if Fido is raising his paw to swear allegiance. In this situation, distract them with something else before their naughty little paws get carried away!

    How To Stop Marking Behavior 

    The best way to stop this behavior is by properly training your dog so that they understand what is acceptable and what isn’t while they are inside the house. Properly training them not only helps prevent marking but also helps build a bond between you and your pup over time. Additionally, providing enough mental stimulation through exercises like walks and playtime will help reduce their stress levels which can lead to marking inside the house as well! 

    Prevent Urine Marking Behaviors

    Dealing with marking behavior from your dog inside your home can be incredibly frustrating; however, understanding why this type of behavior happens can help with developing strategies for prevention and control.

    Training your pup properly will not only help ensure that they don’t mark inside but also create a strong bond between you two over time! A little bit of patience goes a long way when dealing with this issue so make sure that you take things slowly while implementing strategies aimed at preventing any future incidents!

    To stop a Great Dane from marking in the house, it is important to figure out why the dog is doing it and address that underlying issue.

    Male Dogs and Why They Mark Their Territory

    Marking behavior in dogs is seen more commonly in male dogs than female dogs, likely due to the fact that unneutered males will mark their territory as part of reproductive behaviors. Spaying or neutering your pet can significantly reduce marking behavior in the home. In addition to being associated with reproductive behaviors, marking may also occur due to boredom, anxiety, excitement or attention-seeking behaviors. 

    Male dogs also have an instinctive need to mark their territory with urine, which is why it’s important to thoroughly clean any areas in your home that they have marked. Cleaning the area with a solution of 1-part vinegar and 3-parts water will help reduce the odor and discourage future marking in that spot.

    Female Dogs and Dog Marking

    Female dogs can also mark their territory, although it is less common than males. Female dogs may mark if they feel threatened by another animal, if they are in heat or as a way to communicate with other dogs. If your dog is marking inside the house, it’s important to figure out what is causing the behavior and address that first before attempting any other form of intervention.

    Taking them for walks, playing with them or giving them interactive toys can help keep their minds busy so they are less likely to engage in any negative behaviors such as marking inside the house!

    One: Separation Anxiety and Dog’s Urine Marking

    Anxiety can also be a cause behind why dogs might mark inside their home environment. If a pet is feeling anxious or stressed about something then they may attempt to communicate this by leaving their scent around the house either through urine or feces deposits.

    To reduce anxiety, you should try to identify what is causing them distress such as being left alone for long periods of time without human companionship or contact from other animals and work on addressing those underlying issues through positive reinforcement training methods. 

    Urine Marking Can Happen When a Dog May Feel Threatened

    A dog’s anxiety can certainly trigger urine marking. But, it may not always be typical ‘urine marking’.

    A dog’s anxiety can also trigger a behavior known as ‘status marking’. This is when a dog is feeling threatened or intimidated by another animal, and they mark their territory in order to claim it.

    Loud noises, other dogs, a new pet in the home, new objects, physical contact from a stranger, new smells, any changes in a dog’s environment or a new territory might make dogs begin to urine mark out of fear or nerves.

    If you can associate the the time your dog began urine marking with something new in their life, it may be from your dogs experience and might be related to their nerves. In this case, behavior modification can help the dog marking come to an end.

    Two: Excitement and Urine Marking Behavior

    Excitement is another possible reason why some pets might mark indoors; after all, when we’re excited we sometimes do things outside our normal range of behavior too!

    Try providing positive reinforcement whenever your pet exhibits desirable behavior so that they learn that good things come from behaving properly instead of engaging in inappropriate activities like marking inside the home environment. 

    Crate training is an excellent way to cut the dog marking when it is related to excitement. Most dogs do not mean to create more work for their humans. But, in order to reduce urine marking, one can crate their dogs at high stimulation moments like dinner time, or if you know that someone is about to ring the doorbell.

    Three: Frequent Urination and Dog Behavior Problems

    Finally, some dogs might begin urine marking as a way of seeking attention or simply as a form of a behavior issue that needs corrected.

    Attention-seeking behaviors could be another factor influencing why your dog may be marking inside your home; it’s not uncommon for pets who feel neglected to act out in ways that get them noticed so try giving them plenty of love and affection throughout the day if you notice that they’re beginning to display these sorts of behaviors more frequently than usual. 

    Urine marking could be a sign into a deeper problem such as insecurity, lack of training or not being given the proper attention and care that dogs need.

    For example, if you notice your dog urine marking every day around the same time, it is possible that they are in need of mental stimulation during that time of day that their schedule is lacking.

    Four: Medical Causes of Urine Marking

    It is possible that your dog marks due to a medical issue. Many dogs will urine mark their entire lives, but if you notice your dog begin urine marking out of the blue, that could be an indication of an underlying medical issue.

    In this case, it is important to take them to the veterinarian for a check-up as soon as possible. A diagnosis could reveal an infection or other health concern that needs treatment before the urine marking behavior can stop.

    Urinary Tract Infection

    Probably the most common of all medical issues that cause a dog to mark territory or creates mall soiled areas in the house is a urinary tract infection.

    A UTI happens when bacteria is able to enter the urinary tract and cause an infection. A UTI can cause your pet to start urinating frequently in small amounts, or even with no warning at all, leading them to leave puddles around the house.

    Other signs of a UTI may include increased licking of their genital area, pain when urinating, and even signs of blood in your dog’s urine.

    As UTI’s can be extremely painful, be sure to take your dog to the veterinarian to check their urine for bacteria and get antibiotics that can clear this up.

    Five: Reproductive Status and Why Dogs Dogs Mark

    Sometimes people will report that their dog will start marking at different times of sexual maturity.

    There are certainly hormonal influences on a dog that cause them to urine mark, and spay or neutering your pet may be able to help reduce the problem. However, keep in mind that there are an abundance of evidence that spay can create premature incontinence in female dogs, so this applies mostly to you if you have a male dog.

    On top of that, it is important to keep in mind that intact males are more likely to engage in this behavior than neutered male dogs, as well as intact female dogs compared to spayed female pets.

    Spay and Neuter

    Lastly, it is crucial that you allow your large breed, growing dog to reach sexual maturity (24 months) as neutering your dog prematurely can cause various health issues.

    Therefore, if you find your pet urine marking only at certain times, such as when they reach sexual maturity or when a female is in heat, it could be an indication that their reproductive status is playing a role in this behavior.

    However, regardless of the cause of the urine marking behavior, it is important to look at all angles to see whether you should or should not get your dog spayed or neutered.

    Six: Submissive Urination

    A dog who is extremely submissive might portray ‘submissive urination’.

    Dog Tail In Between Legs: Is Your Dog In Pain, Scared or Fearful?

    This dog will display submissive postures, such as lowering their head, averting eye contact, wagging their tail with the tip tucked between their legs, and even urinating when being scolded or approached.

    Dogs Ears Back: What It Means and What to Do

    Dogs who display this behavior are trying to show you that they do not mean any harm and will usually be found in a very timid dog or young puppy. If you find that your pet is eliminating out of fear or anxiety, then it might be a good idea to get them professional help from an animal behaviorist.

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    Solutions to Cut the Urine Marking Altogether

    If you are fed up with urine all over your home, you are not alone. There are a few small tweaks you can do to help your dog find success with this issue.

    Belly Bands

    Belly Bands are a great way to help manage male dogs who are marking in the house.

    Belly bands are a type of “diaper” for your dog, which will catch any urine that is excreted when they have an accident. With just a couple of weeks of consistently wearing one and getting praised for keeping it dry, many owners have seen a marked decrease in urine marking.

    Dog Diapers

    For female dogs, dog diapers are the way to go rather than a belly band. Dog diapers are specifically designed to fit female dogs, and they will make sure that your pet is not getting her fur wet and soiled.

    By providing the same consistency of praising them when they keep it dry, you can help reduce urine marking in your female dog as well.

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    Consistency

    Probably the most important thing to remember when it comes to curbing urine marking in your home is consistency.

    No matter which option you go with, the key is to be consistent with praising them for keeping their area dry and not allowing any accidents.

    This will help your pet associate positive reinforcement with being clean, and can lead to less messes.

    Clean Up your Dog’s Messes

    Cleaning up your pet’s messes immediately is also important. If you clean it up before they have a chance to sniff it, they are less likely to return to the same area when they need to use the restroom or mark their territory.

    Conclusion

    In conclusion, there are many potential causes behind why dogs might mark indoors but understanding what triggers these undesirable behaviors can help us come up with effective strategies for preventing and controlling this type of response in our furry family members.

    Providing adequate physical exercise opportunities along with mental stimulation activities such as interactive toys will go a long way towards helping keep your pet healthy both physically and mentally while also improving their overall behavior at home and in public settings; additionally paying attention to signs of distress whether it’s due to loneliness or anxiety can help stop any further unwanted actions before they occur within your household environment!

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