Coming in hot with my non-biased Embark DNA Review!
A few months ago I decided to do an Embark DNA Test for my Great Danes, even though I assumed they are purebred dogs.
Although I figured my dog’s results in the breed identification portion of the breed health kit would be Great Dane, I still wanted to get the test results and thought it would be fun to see both their breed results and their health report.
Here’s how my process went, what it was like to complete the DNA test and get my dog’s tested, and what pet owners should expect when taking an Embark DNA test.
ONE: EMBARK DNA REVIEW: THE DIFFERENT DNA TESTS AND WHY I CHOSE TO DO AN EMBARK TEST
There are a few different types of DNA tests for dogs. The most popular ones are the Embark and the Wisdom Panel.
The Wisdom Panel is a test that tells you the breeds in your dog’s ancestry going back three generations. It also screens for more than 250 different diseases. The Embark dog dna tests for over 160 different breeds and screens for more than 175 different genetic health conditions.
This test costs $159, and tests your dog’s breed, potential health risks that your dog will face based upon genetics, and provides a family tree.
This test gives a thorough breed composition as well as can go as far back as great grandparents on your pup’s family tree.
PUREBRED KIT
The Purebred Kit tests your dog’s dna for potential health risks as well as contains a breed identification kit. This health test kit is also $159.
This sample, however, is more targeted to the dog’s genetic makeup in regards to comparing it with another dog dna test that is related.
This sample kit could be used for canine research, breeders, or scientific research. Breeders often look at this kit for obtaining health results of the dog’s parents- however you should NOT rely on health results from a breeder who relies on a dog’s dna or breed ancestry from Embark. Refer to our blog post on OFA Health Testing.
BREED ID
The Breed ID kit is a simplified version of the breed health kit in the sense that it DOES NOT include any potential health issues that your dog’s DNA implies.
The breed identification kit ONLY checks for what dog breed your pup is- and can provide family trees on your rescue dog, any mixed breed of up to 350 dog breeds. So, instead of BOTH a health DNA report AND a breed identification report, the breed identification kit is ONLY providing you with breed identification.
The Breed ID Kit will look at the genetic makeup of your dog’s traits in the breed identification process in order to inform you what dog breed you have.
If you are looking to just simply provide a dna sample and learn about the breed ancestry of your dog, the Breed ID kit features just that for $109.
THREE: GIVING A DNA TEST TO YOUR DOG: WHAT’S IN IT FOR DOG OWNERS?
One of the primary reasons I wanted to do a dog dna test review was because of the fun and easy process of getting my dog’s results: from start to finish.
It was SO much easier to complete the dna test than I thought it would be. Here is how it went:
Remember, the Breed Health Kit is the dog DNA test that checks for BOTH health markers as well as breed identification. The cost of my sample kit was $159.
RECEIVE THE KIT IN THE MAIL
When you get the DNA test in the mail- you need to activate it.
Go online and register your kit. Inside of your kit you will find a code that is individual to your dog.
Click on the ‘Activate Kit’ button as shown below. This will prompt you to create an account for your doggo and register your dog’s sample.
Trick: I opted NOT to fill out the physical traits of my dog OR add any photos prior to getting my results. I wanted to see if the dog DNA test was accurate enough to REALLY know that she was a Great Dane before I shared all of her physical traits with the portal.
SWAB YOUR PUP
Next, you want to swab your pup.
The DNA sample is collected with a swab that is provided in the kit.
You want to make sure you get a good sample- so I recommend following the directions clearly- I have seen some Embark reviews stating that their dog DNA test came back a few weeks later requesting an additional swab (owners did not swab thoroughly enough).
I swabbed my pup’s gums and inside of her cheek for 30 seconds. Then, I stuck the swab back into the swab vial and put it into the prepaid envelope.
MAIL YOUR RESULTS
It really is as easy as that! After you have swabbed- stick the prepaid envelope with your dog dna test into the mail.
Then comes the hard part- the waiting! The test can take WEEKS to come back- even months.
My test results came back within about 6 weeks- but luckily Embark sent a few emails along the way to let me know that the dog dna test had made its way to the facility and give updates that they were working on finding the results, etc.
FOUR: WHAT DID I LEARN WHEN I GOT MY DOG’S DNA TEST BACK?
As soon as your dna test results are back- you will get an email with the results.
If you got the Breed ID Kit- your results will be JUST breed identification related. If you got the Breed/Health kit, like I did, your results will be indicative of both breed/genetic diversity/dog’s background as well as indicators of any health markers you should be aware of within your dog’s genetic diversity.
Your ‘portal’ looks like this, and is broken up into multiple sections: Health, Breed and Relatives.
HEALTH
The Embark Dog DNA Test checks for 210+ genetic health risks. That is more genetic health risks than any other dog dna test on the market.
The Embark Dog DNA Test also screens for the MDR-01 gene that predisposes dogs to adverse reactions to certain drugs. Basically, this means that if your pup has this gene- they may have a harder time metabolizing certain types of drugs and may need a lower dosage or different drug altogether.
Gigi’s Health Results
The test will also let you know if your pup is a carrier of any genetic diseases, even if they don’t have the disease themselves. This is important information to have because it means you can be extra vigilant about health screenings for those diseases and make sure you are not breeding carriers with other carriers (which can produce puppies with the disease).
Because it checks for common adult onset diseases, the test can be used preventatively to help you stay on top of any diseases that are common in your dog’s breed.
BREEDS
The Embark Dog DNA Test can identify more than 350 breeds, including some wolf and coyote content. This is the most breed diversity of any dog dna test on the market.
My pup’s results said she was 100% Great Dane- which I knew. But, it was SUPER fun to dive into the colors that she carried for, as it also checks your dog’s coat and colors.
Gigi’s Colors
The test will give you a ‘breed family tree’ that shows what percentage of each breed is in your pup as well as the history/origin of each breed.
RELATIVES
This was my favorite part of the results .
The Embark Dog DNA Test will tell you how closely related your pup is to other dogs in their database.
My pup is distantly related to another dog in the database that is also 100% Great Dane. I also found several other relatives including a possible match for great grandparents.
A few of the dogs who share DNA with Gigi
I was able to reach out to one pet parent who shared a TON of physical traits (and DNA!) with Gigi and we talked for a few messages about how fun it would be if Gigi and Layla ever got to meet.
FIVE: ARE DOG DNA TESTS WORTH IT?
I do believe that the Embark dog dna test is worth it.
Although it is a bit pricy, I was glad that I went with the Health AND Breed identification kit.
If you already know your dog’s breed, but want to check for health markers only, there is no other option BUT to purchase the kit with both breed identification and health.
If you do not know your dog’s breed, they are a mixed breed or rescue, and you ONLY want to find out their breed- you can opt for the $109 breed identification kit- but in my opinion it is worth the extra $50 to get the health information as well.
I think the Embark Dog DNA Test is especially worth it if you have a pup with unknown parentage.
The test can give you a lot of information about genetic diversity as well as any markers you should be aware of.
SIX: SHOULD THE EMBARK DOG DNA TEST BE USED BY BREEDERS TO HEALTH TEST?
In my opinion, breeders should NOT use the Embark Dog DNA Test to health test their adult dogs in order to prove that they are fit to breed.
It is just NOT sufficient enough to provide enough information.
There are other, much more comprehensive health tests that provide far more information about the health of a dog and their suitability to breed.
The Embark Dog DNA Test is a great tool for learning about your own pet- but it should not be used as the sole source of information when making breeding decisions.
OPT FOR OFA HEALTH TESTING
When looking into dog breeds who are healthy and health tested, find a breeder who uses OFA Health Testing on their dogs.
OFA health testing tests things that Embark cannot test, like hips, heart, and eyes.
To further read, feel free to view my blog post about OFA testing.
I hope you enjoyed my Embark Dog DNA review! If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them!
These antibiotics are typically used to treat bacterial infections such as strep throat, pneumonia, and bronchitis in humans. They can also be used to treat urinary tract infections and skin infections.
Dogs should NOT take:
Tetracycline
Fluoroquinolones
Macrolides
These antibiotics are used to treat more serious infections such as Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and leptospirosis. They can also be used to treat urinary tract infections that are resistant to other antibiotics.
So, can dogs take human antibiotics? The answer is- it depends on the antibiotic. Be sure to check with your veterinarian before giving your dog any human medication, even if it is one that is safe for dogs. And, as always, follow the dosage instructions carefully. Giving your dog too much or too little of any medication can be dangerous.
As a pet parent, it’s important to know that you can use amoxicillin for your dogs- but there are a few things you should keep in mind.
First, amoxicillin is a prescription medication. This means that you will need to get a prescription from your veterinarian before giving it to your dog. If you have extra amoxicillin that was originally prescribed as a humans prescription, do your research before administering it as treatment or make a quick call to your veterinarian.
Second, you should always follow the dosage instructions that are provided by your veterinarian. Amoxicillin is available in both tablet form and liquid form.
The liquid form is typically easier to give to dogs as it is administered orally and can be mixed onto their food or with something like fish oil, but the pill form can be crushed and mixed with food or hidden in a treat if necessary.
FINDING THE CORRECT DOSAGE OF ANTIBIOTICS FOR DOGS
Finding the right dose of antibiotic for dogs is safest when you can speak with your vet.
After all- you are treating an animal with an antibiotic drug which does have impact on your pet’s health.
It is not okay to give antibiotics at random- without knowing what the cause is.
In order to find the dosage, you will need to know the entire body weight of your dog’s body.
If you don’t have a scale at home, most veterinarians will be more than happy to help you weigh your dog during an appointment or even over the phone.
Another antibiotic that can be used to treat ear infections is called enrofloxacin. If you are prescribed this antibiotic, it is important to follow the dosage instructions carefully as enrofloxacin can have some serious side effects if not used correctly.
Enrofloxacin is a narrower spectrum antibiotic which means that it works against a smaller variety of bacteria infection.
WHAT ARE THE SIDE EFFECTS OF THE MOST COMMON ANTIBIOTICS?
The most common side effects of antibiotics are:
Diarrhea
Nausea
Vomiting
Loss of appetite
These side effects are typically mild and go away on their own. However, if you notice any severe side effects, it is important to contact your veterinarian immediately.
Even veterinary specific medicines can cause gastrointestinal upset- and can change the flora of your pets gut. If your dog has an infection or you are prescribed any antibiotics or other medications, you should get a probiotic to keep your dog’s stomach flora healthy.
IS THERE A NATURAL ANTIBIOTIC FOR ANIMALS?
There are a few different natural antibiotics that can be used for animals.
Garlic is a broad-spectrum antibiotic which means that it works against a wide variety of bacteria.
This makes it a good choice for minimal side effects to treat infections.
Another natural antibiotic is honey. Since bees are food producing animals, it is best to source honey locally.
The most common way to use honey as an antibiotic is to topically apply it to a wound or infection.
When using honey medicinally, it is important to make sure that you are using raw, unprocessed honey for maximal benefit.
Honey is a narrower spectrum antibiotic which means that it works against a smaller variety of bacteria infection.
Honey is also a natural antiseptic, which means that it can help to prevent infections.
MY DOG IS HAVING AN ALLERGIC REACTION TO A DRUG
If your dog is having any sort of reaction to any medication, even any of the most common antibiotics, it should be considered an emergency.
In a reaction, your pet could struggle with their respiratory system and have difficulty breathing.
Their respiratory tract could swell up and close off, causing them to suffocate.
If your dog is having an allergic reaction to a medication, the first thing you should do is call your veterinarian or emergency animal hospital immediately.
Do not try to give them anything else, not even over the counter medicines meant for humans- as these could further complicate the vet attempt in treating your pet.
ARE HUMAN MEDICATIONS THE SAME AS DOG ANTIBIOTICS?
The answer to this question is very complex. In short- no, human medications are not the same as dog antibiotics.
There are some similarities- such as the fact that both humans and dogs can take amoxicillin for bacterial infections.
However, there are also key differences that pet parents need to be aware of.
Dogs process medications differently than humans do. This means that the dosage, frequency, and even the side effects can be different for dogs.
For example, even though dog amoxicillin is safe, some human grade amoxicillin can cause stomach upset in dogs.
This is why it is so important to always speak with a veterinarian before giving your dog any medication- even if it is something as seemingly innocuous as an antibiotic.
SHOULD I GIVE MY DOG HUMAN GRADE AMOXICILLIN OR ANTIBIOTICS?
In theory, there are many medications that you can share with your pet.
However, be careful going to the human medicine cabinet for your pet’s antibiotics.
Many human medications, even over the counter drugs, can be dangerous or even deadly for animals.
Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?
If you’re considering acupuncture for dogs, you’re not alone.
I personally began using Acupuncture out of a feeling of desperation. My Great Dane, Gigi, was having severe chronic pain from her Wobblers diagnosis.
When modern medicine was not an option for Gigi and her pain management as she was not a candidate for traditional spinal surgery- we were left with the option of lifelong pain medications- and worst- lifelong pain.
I decided to try and start searching for a treatment protocol that could relieve pain and help my dog’s condition.
Gigi at her first Acupuncture appointment
As pet owners, we will do anything we can for our pet’s health. I was motivated to help Gigi with her degenerative joint disease.
MY JOURNEY TO FINDING ACUPUNCTURE FOR DOGS
In my quest in understanding my dog’s health, I found Canine Acupuncture.
I was lucky to stumble upon an amazing canine acupuncturist who’s vet clinic was practically in my backyard.
I took Gigi in for her first acupuncture session.
TRADITIONAL CHINESE VETERINARY MEDICINE vs. WESTERN MEDICINE
TCM is a system of medicine that has been used for over 4000 years to treat human and animal patients.
The goal of TCM is to achieve balance in the body and prevent disease.
TCM encompasses several modalities including acupuncture, Chinese herbs, food therapy, and tui-na (massage).
Alternatively, Western Medicine is the system of medicine most commonly used in the United States.
The goal of Western Medicine is to treat disease with medications or surgery.
Common modalities used in Western Medicine include, but are not limited to, pharmaceuticals, vaccines, and radiotherapy.
CERTIFIED VETERINARY ACUPUNCTURIST
So how does acupuncture fit into all of this?
A Certified Veterinary Acupuncturist is somewhat of a mix between both!
They have completed an accredited veterinary program and then gone on to complete an additional 300-hour acupuncture certification to be able to perform Veterinary Acupuncture.
This combination of Eastern and Western medicine is what makes Certified Veterinary Acupuncturists so unique.
They are able to provide comprehensive care to their patients by utilizing both systems of medicine.
WHAT PET OWNERS SHOULD EXPECT WITH DOG ACUPUNCTURE
At Gigi’s first appointment, I was anxious to see whether or not this acupuncture treatment would be effective to alleviate pain.
When I first arrived, I explained my dog’s medical records and her amazing Veterinary Acupuncturist began to explain the treatment of Acupuncture therapy.
Pet parents should expect acupuncture sessions to be virtually painless for their dog’s body, and should see a healing response within just a few hours of time.
A typical acupuncture session lasts for about 30 minutes with a trained Acupuncturist.
Let’s talk about some of the things I learned at my first animal acupuncture appointment with Gigi.
ACUPUNCTURE NEEDLES
The needles used on dogs are much smaller in diameter than the needles used on humans.
They are also solid, as opposed to the hollow-cored needles used on humans.
The smaller size and solidity of the needles make them much less painful when inserted into your dog.
They are a little bit intimidating to pet parents at first, but rest assured that acupuncture work is not painful.
ACUPUNCTURE POINTS
There are over 365 acupuncture points on a dog’s body.
The most commonly used points are located on the legs, neck, and back.
These points correspond to areas where your dog is most likely to have pain or discomfort.
Acupuncture for dogs will rely on these pressure points to help ease pain in the body.
NEEDLE INSERTION
Acupuncture needles are inserted into the skin and muscle tissue.
The depth of needle insertion will vary depending on the size of your dog and the location of the acupuncture point.
Most needles are only inserted a few millimeters below the skin surface.
Once the needles are in place, they are left there for 20-30 minutes.
The needles enhance blood circulation by opening up the blood vessels and by releasing endorphins, which are the body’s natural painkillers.
After the needles are removed, your dog will be relaxed and may even fall asleep.
TREATMENT TIME
Acupuncture sessions usually last between 30-60 minutes.
First, the Veterinarian will conduct a general medical assessment.
Then, they will begin to perform acupuncture.
During this time, your dog will be lying on a comfortable table or bed.
The acupuncturist will insert the needles into your dog’s skin at various points on their body.
After the needles are inserted, your dog will be left to relax for a few minutes.
Most dogs enjoy this part of the treatment and will often fall asleep. Pet parents can sit with their pup the entire time their dog is receiving acupuncture treatments.
AFTER THE TREATMENT
After the treatment is finished, the needles will be removed and your dog will be able to go home.
Most dogs feel relaxed and calm after an acupuncture session.
It is important to avoid letting your dog run or play for at least 30 minutes after the treatment. You can use a crate to keep them calm, if needed.
This will give the acupuncture time to work and will help prevent your dog from getting injured.
Most people who take their pup for dog acupuncture report that their dog is extremely happy and pain-free for several days or even weeks post-treatment.
THE BENEFITS OF ACUPUNCTURE FOR DOGS
Acupuncture has been shown to be an effective treatment for a variety of health problems.
There has been pain relieving effects for medical conditions such as hip dysplasia, joint disease, joint inflammation, Addison’s disease, neurological disorders (like Gigi!), gastrointestinal problems, musculoskeletal diseases, metabolic diseases, diabetes mellitus, and even treating pain from something as severe as a spinal cord injury.
Acupuncture has also been known to be helpful in treating behavioral problems such as separation anxiety and fear of fireworks.
Overall, acupuncture is a safe and effective way to treat a variety of health conditions in dogs.
Gigi with her sisters on a Big Barker Bed
When I originally took Gigi to her first dog acupuncture treatment, I really did not expect the results that I was about to receive for her.
HOW DOES CANINE ACUPUNCTURE ACTUALLY WORK
Canine acupuncture works when a Veterinary Acupuncturist inserts needles into specific areas on a dog’s body.
The goal is to release endorphins, increase blood circulation, and reduce inflammation.
Acupuncture can be used to treat a wide variety of health conditions in dogs.
It is important to note that acupuncture should only be performed by either licensed Veterinary Acupuncturists or Chiropractors.
ANIMAL ACUPUNCTURE AND THE NERVOUS SYSTEM
The nervous system of a dog is similar to that of human patients.
There are acupuncture points located all over the body that correspond to different areas of the dog’s body.
When the needles are inserted into these specific points, it helps to release endorphins and reduce pain, providing blood flow and releasing tissue inflammation.
First and foremost: Acupuncture helps to increase blood circulation and reduce inflammation which can be beneficial to your dog’s condition, pretty much no matter WHAT their condition is.
WHEN VETERINARY MEDICINE IS NOT HELPING A DOGS SUFFERING
Since prescription medication and some traditional medicine does not have anti inflammatory substances but rather can cause inflammation, alternative therapies like acupuncture work can be extremely beneficial to improve blood circulation.
Veterinary medicine is an incredible resource that has helped our dogs in so many ways. Most pet parents will admit to being extraordinarily grateful for their Veterinarian.
However, there are times when traditional medicine is not enough to help a dog suffering from pain or an injury.
This is where acupuncture for dogs comes in. Acupuncture is a safe and effective alternative treatment that can be used to treat a variety of health conditions in dogs.
GIGI’S STORY OF VETERINARY ACUPUNCTURE
After Gigi’s first Acupuncture treatment, I was really surprised at how much better she felt.
The results were almost immediate and she continued to improve with each subsequent treatment.
Now, Gigi is a happy and healthy dog who loves to go on walks and play with her toys.
I am so grateful that we found acupuncture for dogs and would recommend it to any pet parent who is looking for an alternative treatment for their dog.
If you are considering acupuncture for your dog, I would encourage you to speak with your veterinarian about it. They will be able to provide you with more information and help you decide if it is the right treatment option for your dog.
Have you ever tried acupuncture for your pup?
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There are many reasons why dogs might start fights with each other, including:
Possession aggression: This is when a dog becomes aggressive over something he perceives as his, such as a toy or a spot on the couch.
Territorial aggression: This is when a dog feels like his territory is being threatened and he becomes aggressive to protect it.
Fear aggression: This is when a dog is afraid of something and lashes out in aggression in order to protect himself.
Redirected aggression: This is when a dog is feeling aggressive about something but can’t get to the object of his aggression, so he redirects it onto another dog.
Now that you know some of the reasons why dogs might fight, let’s look at how to stop dogs from fighting.
HOW TO STOP DOGS FROM FIGHTING: THE SECOND STEP IS MANAGEMENT
The first step in management is understanding what sets your dogs off and trying to avoid those situations.
POSSESSION AGGRESSION
If you have an aggressive dog who gets more agitated when they are around toys, items, bones, or food, they might have possession aggression or food aggression. This is often called resource guarding.
Dogs involved with a dog fight involving being possessive might initially appear relaxed and then suddenly start growling or snapping when someone comes too close to their prized possession.
To help manage a dog with possession aggression:
Make sure there are enough toys, bones, and food so that each dog has their own.
Do not allow children to take away a toy from a dog; instead teach them to trade the dog for something else such as a treat.
If your dogs start fighting over an item, do not try to intervene yourself; instead, use a loud noise (such as clapping your hands) to startle them and make them drop the item.
TERRITORIAL AGGRESSION
Dogs who become aggressive when someone enters their home or yard might have territorial aggression.
To help your dog with possession aggression, you can:
Give them their own toys that they can keep in their own space
Feed them in separate areas or in crates so they don’t feel the need to protect their food
Avoid leaving bones or other chew items where other dogs can get to them
Teach him a “welcome” command so he knows that it’s okay for people to come in
Keep him on a leash when visitors come over so you know that he will not approach them
Crate train so that your dog feels safe as well as other people feel safe in the same room as your dog
Fear aggression is common in many dogs. Most dogs are afraid of at least something, if not all dogs.
Your dog could be afraid of the silliest things, like the sound of the vacuum cleaner or a plastic bag.
Other dogs might be afraid of more serious things, such as men with beards or people in hats.
Younger dogs often start off afraid of their own shadows, and need socialized to understand what validates fear and what does not.
The first step to helping your dog with fear aggression is to find out what he’s afraid of and try to avoid those situations while you are working on building confidence.
If you can’t avoid the situation, then you need to help your dog learn to cope with his fear. This can be done through desensitization and counterconditioning.
REDIRECTED AGGRESSION:
Redirected aggression happens when a dog is feeling aggressive about something but can’t get to the object of his aggression, so he redirects it onto another dog.
For example, if your dog is barking at the neighbor’s dog through the fence and the neighbor’s dog starts barking back, your dog might become so agitated that he turns around and bites you.
Do not put your dog in a situation where he is likely to be aroused by something but unable to get to it.
If you see that your dog is getting aroused by something, try to redirect his attention with a toy or treat.
Make sure that you are not inadvertently rewarding your dog for being aggressive by giving him attention when he is acting aggressively.
DOGS FIGHTING IS VERY DANGEROUS AND AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR SHOULD NOT BE TAKEN LIGHTLY
Dogs who are fighting can cause serious injuries to each other, as well as to people who try to break up the fight. It’s important to understand what might be causing your dogs to fight so that you can prevent future fights from happening. There are four main types of aggression in dogs: possession aggression, territorial aggression, fear aggression, and redirected aggression.
Possession aggression is when a dog becomes aggressive when someone tries to take away their toy or food.
Redirected aggression happens when a dog is feeling aggressive about something but can’t get to the object of his aggression, so he redirects it onto another person or animal.
Territorial aggression is when a dog becomes aggressive when someone enters their home or yard.
Fear aggression is when a dog becomes afraid of something and redirects his fear onto another person or animal.
WHAT DOES A STRESSED DOG LOOK LIKE?
A stressed dog might:
Pace
Shake or tremble
Pant excessively
Yawn
Lick his lips
Avoid eye contact
Have a “half-moon” eye (whites of the eyes are showing)
Ears may be back or flat against the head
Tail may be down, between the legs, or wagging low and fast
Body may be stiff
If your dog is demonstrating any of the above signs, they might be stressed, even if they are not demonstrating all of them.
Photo credit to @lexi.aspen.raynaPhoto credit to @lexi.aspen.rayna
Dog owners should be intuitive with their own dogs in order to identify underlying anxiety and their dogs stressors so that they can prevent dog fights in the first place.
WHAT DOES A MORE CONFIDENT DOG LOOK LIKE?
Some dog owners think that the most confident dog is the most dominant dog.
That is just not true.
The ‘pack leader’ will demonstrate calm behavior, a relaxed posture, and slow movements.
A confident dog is not afraid to make eye contact and will have a soft body with a natural wagging tail.
Confident dogs are not the ‘weaker dog’. They are not necessarily the older dog either.
The confident dogs will be able to help other dogs feel calm and comfortable by picking up on their cues.
Dogs who are comfortable with their situation will display:
Relaxed body
Loose ears
Relaxed tail
Happy to make eye contact
Happy to approach other dogs but also give space when needed
Not impacted when new people come into the dogs environment
Can happily be in the same house and same room as other dogs or a new dog
HOW TO STOP DOG FIGHTS INVOLVING GUARDING PEOPLE
Sometimes two dogs will get into a dog fight when one dog gets possessive over another dog while trying to ‘protect’ their owner or a person.
The first step in preventing this type of dog fight is to never put yourself in the middle of two dogs who are fighting.
If you try to break up a dogfight, you could get bitten by one or both dogs. The best way to break up a dog fight is to distract the dogs with loud noises or spray them with water. Once the dogs are distracted, you can move them away from each other.
WHY DO MANY DOGS GUARD THEIR OWNERS?
Many dogs will act aggressive if another dog comes too close to their owner.
Some dog owners consider this as a form of protection. They try to label this action as heroic: their dog is protecting them and even willing to fight other dogs to ‘protect them’.
Unfortunately, this couldn’t be further from the truth.
If a dog is acting aggressive when another dog comes nearby its dog owner, this is not heroic, but rather called guarding.
Dogs growling or raising their hackles at another dog for ANY reason shouldn’t be praised.
WHAT SHOULD I DO IF MY DOG IS GUARDING ME?
Identifying your dogs stressors is the first step.
If you know that your dogs triggers lies with the moment another dog approaches you, start by asking other dog owners to give your dog a wide berth.
This will help your dog feel more comfortable and less anxious. If you have friends with dogs, ask if they can help you out by not coming too close to you when your dog is around.
You can also work on desensitizing, socializing and counterconditioning your dog to other dogs being around you.
Start with having another person stand far away from you while you feed your dog his favorite treats. We recommend using a treat bag.
As he gets used to this, the person can move closer little by little until they are close enough to pet your dog without him feeling uncomfortable.
It’s important that during this training process, everyone involved ignores the fact that there is another dog present.
This means no talking to or looking at the other dog, even if he’s being well-behaved.
The goal is for your dog to associate the presence of other dogs with good things happening, instead of feeling anxious or stressed.
When your dog is comfortable with this exercise, you can start adding in movement by having the person walk around you while you are standing still.
Once your dog is doing well with that, you can move on to having the person walk past you while you are walking in the opposite direction.
Remember to go slowly and only increase the difficulty of the exercise when your dog is completely comfortable and not showing any signs of stress.
If at any point during these exercises your dog becomes anxious or stressed, you are moving too fast and need to immediately separate dogs and go back to the previous step.
It is important to never force your dog into any situation that he is not comfortable with.
Forcing a dog into a situation that causes him stress will only make his guarding behavior worse.
MY DOGS FIGHT WHEN THERE IS FOOD INVOLVED
Food is a very big trigger for dogs, and can continue to be so for a majority of some dog’s life.
Many instances of dogs fighting is related to when dogs are eating meals, treats, bones, or anything similar.
Many dog owners do not realize that food can be one of the biggest of dogs triggers to an otherwise calm dog becoming a ‘more aggressive dog’. Even dogs who are generally even-keeled can become uncomfortable with another dog getting into their space when they are eating.
TIPS FOR ELIMINATING ISSUES WITH FOOD
It is best to feed dogs in separate areas, especially if they are not used to being around each other.
If you have a multi-dog household, we recommend getting an extra food bowl and feeding station so that each dog can eat in his own space.
Crate training is an especially excellent tool to help more than two dogs stop fighting while eating. Crates help manage mealtime and feed dogs separately and safely.
This will help reduce the chances of your dogs fighting over food.
In cases where one dog consistently steals food from another dog, it is best to get a puzzle toy or slow feeder bowl to give the ‘stealer’ dog something else to do with his time besides trying to steal food.
Puzzle toys and slow feeders are a great way to keep any dog occupied and out of trouble!
DO NOT STEAL YOUR DOGS FOOD OR PUT YOUR HAND IN YOUR DOGS BOWL
Some training methods, especially in the ‘alpha‘ or ‘pack leader training’ methods will recommend that you steal your dogs food or put your hand in his bowl while he is eating as a way to show him that you are the ‘pack leader’.
This is an outdated and dangerous method that can cause your dog to become aggressive towards you or other dogs.
We do not recommend this method under any circumstances.
Instead, if your one dog is acting stressed around food, make sure to associate yourself with the ADDITION of positive treats/food. When you walk past your dog, throw a treat in his bowl or drop a few next to him so he associates you with something good happening.
Guarding food is a very natural behavior for dogs, and one that should not be punished.
In summary: apply these tips with your dogs who demonstrate stress surrounding food when around other dogs, other animals, or other people:
Avoiding triggers that may cause your dog to become aggressive
Feeding dogs in separate areas or using puzzle toys/slow feeders if they tend to steal food from each other
Never stealing your dog’s food or putting your hand in his bowl (this could trigger aggression
By using the above tips, you can help your dogs feel more comfortable around each other and reduce the chances of them fighting.
SEEKING HELP WITH DOG TRAINING FOR FOOD AGGRESSION
In cases where a dog is truly food-aggressive and fights with other dogs over food, it is best to seek professional help from a certified trainer or behaviorist who can help you safely modify your dog’s behavior.
Dogs fighting is a very serious issue that can lead to many problems, including but not limited to: severe injuries, the spread of disease, and even death.
If you have two dogs who are fighting, it is important to seek professional help as soon as possible to prevent the situation from escalating. There are an abundance of dog training resources that can help.
Fighting dogs can be a danger to themselves, each other, and any humans who try to break up the fight.
DOGS IN THE SAME HOUSEHOLD FIGHTING
Dogs tend to fight with new dogs that they do not know already, but sometimes two or more dogs of the same pack can randomly begin to fight.
If you have two dogs or even three dogs in the same house, you will need to work hard to keep the peace with the house.
Multiple dogs in one household CAN get along in a peaceful way!
With obedience training, confidence building, and strong boundaries, your dogs can get along well under one roof.
Need help with modern e collar training? Check out our guide.
TIPS TO STOP FIGHTING WITH DOGS IN THE HOUSE
If your dogs fight with one another in the house, you can work to stop fighting with a few tips.
Crate train one dog or both dogs. This will give each dog his own space and help to prevent fighting.
Do not allow either dog on the furniture. This will help to create a hierarchy in the home and prevent fighting over resources.
Be sure to feed each dog in his own area and never leave food out where they can both get to it.
Make sure each dog has his own toys and do not allow them to play with the same toy at the same time.
Do not leave your dogs unattended.
Do not let kids or small children lay on top of your dog, pull the tail of your dog or interact with your dog unattended.
Plan ahead for when new dogs will visit.
Work with a dog trainer and animal behaviorist to help your dogs remain peaceful in the home.
MY DOG FIGHTS WITH NEW DOGS
If your dog fights with new dogs that it is unfamiliar with, it is likely because it is afraid but there are also other reasons:
Older Dog: Sometimes with an older dog, you might find that they no longer have the same interest as a younger dog to interact with dogs anymore.
Young Dog: Some young dogs have not been properly socialized and therefore might try to fight with new dogs.
Dog Parks: Dog parks can be a great place to socialize your dog, but they can also be a place where dogs fight. If you take your dog to the dog park, be sure to keep an eye on him at all times.
Barking: Dogs will often bark and lunge at other dogs when they are on a leash because they feel restrained and unable to escape. If your dog is barking and lunging at other dogs while on a leash, it is important to work with a professional trainer to help your dog overcome this behavior.
Reactivity: Reactivity is when a dog is overly sensitive to stimuli in its environment. Dogs who are reactive may bark, growl, lunge, or even bite in response to things that trigger their fear or anxiety. If your dog is reactive, it is important to work with a certified trainer or behaviorist to help your dog learn how to cope with the things that trigger its reactivity.
Fearful Dogs: Fearful dogs are often the ones who start fights with other dogs because they are trying to defend themselves. If your dog is fearful of other dogs, it is important to work with a certified trainer or behaviorist to help your dog overcome its fear.
Anxiety: Anxiety is a condition that can cause a variety of different behaviors in dogs, including aggression. If your dog is anxious, it is important to work with a certified trainer or behaviorist to help your dog learn how to cope with its anxiety.
Depending on the cause of the reactivity and aggression, most dogs if not all dogs can be rehabilitated and will be able to exist with any other dog without breaking out in fights.
TIPS FOR PREVENTING DOG BITES
The best way to prevent dog bites is to educate yourself and others about how to interact safely with dogs.
Here are some tips:
Never approach a dog you do not know, even if he seems friendly. Ask the owner first if it’s okay to pet the dog.
When meeting a new dog, let him sniff your closed hand before petting him.
Don’t bother a dog who is eating, sleeping, or playing with a toy.
Dogs can get jealous when you give attention to other dogs, so always ask the owner before petting another dog.
Never pull on a dog’s tail or ears, and never try to pick up a dog against his will.
Respect a dog’s personal space and do not invade it.
Never approach a strange dog from behind as this may startle him.
If you see a fight between two dogs, do not try to break it up yourself. Dogs can become aggressive when they are afraid or feel threatened, so it is best to call animal control or the police for help.
HELPING DOGS BE SUCCESSFUL ON LEASH
If you have worked with a dog trainer, you have probably heard that you should not let your dog interact with other dogs while on leash.
The reason being is that dogs on leash often feel threatened and anxious, which can lead to aggression.
However, there are ways that you can help your dog be successful when interacting with other dogs while on leash:
Make sure that your dog is well-socialized so that he knows how to interact appropriately with other dogs.
Be aware of your dog’s body language and look for signs of stress or anxiety. If you see these signs, it is best to move away from the other dog.
Ensure that your dog has a good foundation of obedience commands such as sit, stay, come, and down. This will help you keep control of your dog if he does become excited or reactive around another dog.
Do not approach other dogs on leash or let the two dogs interact with one another while on leash.
Participate in on leash walks where the dogs do not interact, but rather learn how to exist with one another without playing, lunging or biting.
WHAT TO DO IF YOUR DOG ATTACKS ANOTHER DOG
First and foremost, if your dog attacks another dog, it can be very scary.
Try not to panic.
Also, do not try to separate fighting dogs, especially with your hands.
Try to make loud noises and get the dogs’ attention by spraying them with water from a hose or throwing objects near them.
Only once the dogs have stopped fighting should you try to separate them.
Then, take your dog to the vet for a check-up, even if he seems fine.
Afterward, make sure to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist to help you and your dog work through any issues that may have caused the aggression.
It is also important to talk to your veterinarian about what happened and ask for their advice on how to prevent it from happening again in the future including asking them if they have any recommendations for fear training and obedience training. Your vet might have great suggestions for a certified professional dog trainer.
Dogs are complex creatures and there can be many different reasons why they fight with other dogs. However, by understanding the causes of aggression and working on prevention.
Some parents like to be prepared with items such as loud horns, dog versions of pepper spray, or other tools in case their dog ever gets into a fight with another dog.
If you choose to carry any of these items, make sure to familiarize yourself with how to use them before you need to use them in an emergency situation.
Remember, the best way to prevent your dog from fighting with another dog is to be proactive and understand the causes of aggression. If you can identify the triggers for your dog’s aggression, you can work on prevention and management so that your dog can live a happy and healthy life.
WHAT TO DO IF YOUR DOG GETS ATTACKED
If your dog gets attacked, do not forget to get the contact information from the owner of the attacker.
Not only is it important for potential vet bills, but you will want to verify that their dog is up to date on its vaccines.
Next, try to get to the vet immediately. Getting to the veterinarian immediately is important because your dog will need to be checked for injuries, given a round of antibiotics to prevent infection, and possibly have x-rays taken if there are any broken bones.
If your dog has been attacked by another dog, it is important to take some time to understand what may have caused the attack.
It is also important to work on prevention so that it does not happen again in the future.
There are many different resources available to help you do this including books, online articles, and even working with a certified professional dog trainer or behaviorist.
While an attack can be frightening, it is important to remember that most dogs do not want to hurt other dogs and that with some training and understanding, you can help your dogs stay safe.
MY MALE DOG IS AGGRESSIVE
Male dogs can be aggressive for many different reasons.
Some male dogs are aggressive due to dominance, while others may be acting out because they are afraid or in pain.
Other males may have been poorly socialized as puppies or have a history of abuse or neglect.
If your male dog is displaying signs of aggression, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog.
In some cases, medication may be necessary in order to help your dog feel more relaxed and comfortable around other dogs. However, medication should always be a resort taken after training.
Some male dogs mount female dogs when they are over stimulated and this should be avoided. Keep your male dogs separately from female dogs if they are not spayed.
MY FEMALE DOG IS AGGRESSIVE
Female dogs are known more for fighting with dogs that are the same sex as themselves.
This is because females are often more territorial and want to protect their home and resources from other females.
However, any dog can be aggressive regardless of sex.
If your female dog is displaying signs of aggression, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog.
If your female dog is aggressive toward any other dog, work on setting intense boundaries, crate training and seeking help from a balanced trainer.
MY DOG HAS SEPARATION ANXIETY
Separation anxiety is a type of anxiety that occurs when a dog is away from their owner.
This can be caused by many different things including prior abandonment, neglect, or abuse. It can also be caused by dogs not being given enough independent time, which is why crate training is so important.
Dogs with separation anxiety often display signs of distress such as barking, howling, chewing, pacing, and destruction when left alone.
If your dog has separation anxiety, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog.
Treatment plans for separation anxiety often include medication, crate training, and providing your dog with toys and bones that are only given to them when you leave the house.
With some time and patience, most dogs with separation anxiety can be cured and be confident being by themselves.
MY OLDER DOG IS SUDDENLY AGGRESSIVE
If you have an older dog that is suddenly demonstrating signs of aggressive behavior, it is important to take them to the vet for a check-up.
Older dogs can become aggressive due to many different things including pain, cognitive decline, and sensory issues.
Since dogs cannot talk, they sometimes resort to other forms of communication to express their pain. Their pain could be stemming from:
Once you have ruled out any medical causes, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog.
Treatment plans for older dogs that are suddenly aggressive often include medication, crate training, obedience training, and providing your dog with plenty of mental and physical stimulation.
With some time and patience, most older dogs that are demonstrating signs of aggression can be helped with these treatment plans.
IN CONCLUSION
There are many different reasons why dogs may become aggressive. However, with some patience and training, most dogs can be taught to control their aggression. If you are struggling to stop your dog from being aggressive, it is important to consult with a certified animal behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist who can help you create a treatment plan specifically for your dog. With some time and effort, you and your dog can overcome this obstacle and have a happy and healthy life together. Thanks for reading! I hope this article was helpful. 🙂
If you have any questions or would like to share your own experiences with dog aggression, please leave a comment below! I would love to hear from you.
Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?
But – do they work? And even more-so- what the heck are they?
THE FOUNDATIONS: WHAT IS A DOG E COLLAR?
An e collar is a training tool for dogs. But more importantly, it is a way for dog owners to communicate the rules and ‘norms’ of life with their pet, set strong boundaries, and help them to be successful in life.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A SHOCK COLLAR AND AN E COLLAR?
Most people think that e collar use is the same thing as shock collars.
This is simply NOT true. E collar training is VERY different than training with shock collars.
Shock collars are known to create painful skin burns, cause extreme harm to the neck / skin, and can actually CAUSE negative behavior. Shock collars are made with the intention to punish a dog for bad behavior – and are NOT an effective way to train your pet.
Additionally, one of the main difference between shock collars and e collars is on the inside. On the inside of a shock collar is a shock unit- when you push the button on the remote control your dog will get shocked. The shock collar can be VERY unreliable- sometimes it will shock and sometimes it will not. A ‘cheap’ shock collar from Amazon or something of the like is known to create pressure sores and thus, negative associations with your dog.
Do not get sucked into thinking that a shock collar is the training tool that you should use to perfect your dog’s behavior. It will simply cause harm, pain and unnecessary behaviors or new behavioral issues over time.
ARE ELECTRIC COLLARS CRUEL?
If you are using a shock collar to train dogs, it can be considered cruel. Using a shock collar on your dog for any form of behavior modification can create confusion.
However, e collars work entirely different than a shock collar, and therefore the training sessions associated with these collars are also very different. In result- your dog will FEEL very different physically, emotionally, and their behavior will be very different when working with this effective training tool.
Not all collars for dogs are the same. E collars work with positive reinforcement AND negative reinforcement (YES- negative reinforcement IS a good thing- ALL dogs need correction in order to correct behavior when training).
So- when deciding if remote training collars are cruel- you need to know the difference between all the different types of collars for dogs. Bark collars, shock collar, or stimulation collars for dogs.
Choose a stimulation collar! We call these e-collars. This is the most ethical form of training collar for your pup and is NOT cruel.
WHAT IS ON THE INSIDE OF AN E COLLAR?
On the inside of ethical, modern e collars is what makes them an effective training tool.
What BETTER item to use on your dog’s neck than electronic collars with electronic stimulation that not only helps with their training but provides healthy muscular benefits as well?
WHAT DOES THE ‘E’ IN ‘E COLLAR’ MEAN?
The ‘e’ in e collar means ‘electronic’.
But what does that mean?
It means that there is a small stimulation box on the inside of the collar that sends out a electric charge to two metal contact points on either side of your dog’s neck. The electric charge is not harmful- and actually feels similar to a ‘tingle’ or ‘buzz’ that you might feel if you were to touch your tongue to a battery.
The charge is not harmful, and is actually very low level. The level of stimulation can be increased or decreased depending on what training stage your dog is in, as well as their individual personality and needs.
Any collar that does not include Electrical Muscle Stimulation is considered a ‘shock collar’, and should be treaded easily. Stim will train your dog what is right and wrong and allow them to understand your communication whereas shock collars will condition your dogs to the idea that you are going to harm them and cause pain when they are not responding correctly.
WHAT DOES AN E COLLAR DO FOR DOGS?
An e collar is used by dog owners or a professional dog trainer to help dogs succeed in ALL aspects of life.
Because e collars are ‘communication’ devices, rather than ‘corrective’ devices, they are used not to control your pet, but to help as your dog learns right from wrong.
Additionally, e collars teach dogs how to be safe, avoid dangerous situations while off leash, and gain strong recall.
E collars can also be used for maintaining positive obedience skills like walking on a leash, not jumping on people, avoiding counter surfing, and being able to gain the freedom to live their best lives while also being safe and healthy.
WHAT DOES AN E COLLAR FEEL LIKE?
E collars, unlike shock collars, DO NOT hurt or cause pain.
The level of stimulation can be increased or decreased- but should always start at the lowest setting.
The electronic e collar that we highly recommend has a ‘momentary’ and a ‘continuous’ setting.
The momentary is a quick stimulation that’s purpose is to get your dog’s attention or remind them of a certain behavior. It is similar to what you might feel if you were to briefly have your hand fall asleep, for 1 second.
The continuous stim is where the owner has control over the electronic collar with the remote, and can dial the volume of the e collar up and down, depending on the dogs behavior.
For example: if you are wanting your pup to recall while off leash from 100 yards away, you can begin to dial up on the continuous stim. As your dog returns to you, you will begin to dial down. This is a strategy that I like to call the ‘hot and cold’ game.
Either way, when using e collars with stim inside of them, the e collar feels like a slight buzzing- and does not hurt.
Most dog owners will try the collar on themselves before trying it on their dog to train.
DO E COLLARS TRAUMATIZE DOGS?
E collars and e collar training does NOT traumatize dogs.
E collars provide a way for dog owners to have clear communication with their dogs- and help them learn how to be safe and make good decisions.
Without e collars, many dogs would never be able to experience all the joys that life has to offer- like being off leash hiking in the woods, running and playing on the beach, or even just being able to have a safe walk around the neighborhood.
E collars provide dogs with a way to have freedom- while also keeping them safe.
However, having said that, using a low quality collar with your dog will put you at risk for contact burns, random harsh shock, and in turn: unexplainable behaviors.
HOW DO YOU USE AN E COLLAR?
E collars are meant to communicate with your dog.
First and foremost, before you begin dog training with e collars on any behavior, your dog should know the basic verbal commands.
For example, if you are wanting to train your dog to associate the use of ecollars in their dog training to the ‘sit’ command, they should ALREADY be able to perform the sit command.
If you are hoping to strengthen your dog’s leash skills- they should already have a foundation of training on leash skills in which you maintain control over your dog on leash.
WHERE DO I START WITH USING AN E COLLAR?
The first place to start using e collars on your dog is with their name.
After you have done this a few times, you will then want to begin using the e collar.
Start with the lowest level of stimulation and work your way up as needed.
I like to start on the lowest level and then increase the level if my dog is not responding.
Once you find the lowest level of the collar that works for your dog you are ready to begin training them to associate their name with the collar.
TEACH YOUR DOG TO ASSOCIATE THEIR NAME WITH THE COLLARS
Next, you will want to put the collar on your dog.
You will then want to say your dog’s name in a happy voice and immediately follow it with a treat.
Repeat this process several times until your dog is responding consistently.
Now you are ready to begin adding in the stimulation with the e collar.
Start with the lowest level of stimulation.
Remember to always start with verbal praise first and then follow it with a treat as well as a ‘marker word’. A marker word means that you are telling your dog that they have done something correct.
I like to use the word ‘yes’ as my marker word.
So, when I say my dog’s name and they look at me I would then say ‘yes’ and immediately follow it with a treat.
Once your dog is responding consistently, you can begin to add one extra step with your wireless remote.
Say your dogs name
Wait for them to look at you
Press the stim button
Simultaneously provide a treat (positive reinforcement) as well as a marker word ‘YES’!
SHOULD YOU TRAIN YOUR DOG WITH AN E COLLAR?
In short, we LOVE seeing healthy training of dogs using an e collar! Feel free to check out our guide below:
Need help with modern e collar training? Check out our guide.
If you feel uncomfortable getting started, get some help from a professional trainer who can help you get started. With proper techniques, using an e collar can significantly help most dogs thrive and be confident members of society.
You might be shocked to see me suggest using an e collar on a puppy.
However, I’ve got some news for dog owners: Great Dane puppies don’t stay little for long.
One day, you’ve got this new puppy who is snuggly and sweet… but if you blink for just 1 second and open your eyes: you’ve got a puppy the size of an adult dog.
Let me explain. I’ve got some reasons why I believe that incorporating an electronic, stim collar into your training sessions with yes- even young puppies– will benefit both you and your dog.
WHEN SHOULD YOU USE AN E COLLAR WITH PUPPY TRAINING?
One of the most common questions new dog owners ask is when to start using a stim collar during puppy training.
The answer, of course, depends on a variety of factors, including the methods of which you plan to use the collar, the collar you buy itself, and temperament of your dog.
However, there are a few general guidelines that can help you decide when it’s time to introduce a stim collar into your pup’s training regimen.
First, you’ll need to use stim conditioning with your dog, which means teaching them that the collar is not a punishment.
Collar conditioning protocols will help the Great Dane owner equip the Great Dane with the ability to understand the training method as a form of communication and not as a punishment for undesired behaviors.
WHAT IS A SHOCK COLLAR AND IS IT THE SAME AS A STIM COLLAR?
A shock collar is a device that is worn around the neck of a Great Dane and delivers an electric shock to the dog when it is triggered by a remote control.
Shock collar training is NOT the same as using an ethical training collar.
Shock collars are controversial, and their use is banned in some countries.
Supporters of shock collars argue that they are a safe and effective way to train dogs, while opponents argue that they are cruel and can cause behavior problems.
LET ME REPEAT: WE THINK THEY ARE VERY DANGEROUS!
The use of shock collars is regulated in some countries, and only approved collars may be used. In the United States, there are no federal laws governing the use of shock collars, but some states have laws that restrict their use.
We stand by the belief that you should never use a puppy shock collar to prevent puppies from certain behaviors.
ARE SHOCK COLLARS SAFE?
Modern shock collars and shock training is NOT safe. Shock training requires the use of a shock collar that delivers an electrostatic shock to eliminate unwanted behaviors. With each shock administered, you are telling your dog that you are in control and will/can physically harm them if they are misbehaving.
Shock collar training is NOT a safe method of training- and shock collars are known to frequently cause painful burns. Great Dane owners should not use a shock collar or puppy shock collar to get a dog’s attention.
TEN REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD USE AN ETHICAL TRAINING COLLAR WITH YOUR DOGS
Now that we have talked about the reasons NOT to use a shock collar, let’s jump into the many reasons why you should start collar training with your puppy.
ONE: OUT OF ALL TRAINING METHODS, AN E COLLAR TRAINING DEVICE IS SAFEST
When it comes to training methods, there’s a lot of debate over which one is the best. Some people swear by using a positive only approach, deeming the use of stimulation collars as cruel or abusive.
But when it comes to safety, health and the LEAST ABUSIVE METHOD, there’s really only one winner: a collar with stimulation: NOT a dog shock collar.
When pet parents think of tools that are ‘painful’ they often think of prong collars, electric collars, and choke collars.
What Great Dane parents do NOT realize is that the most aversive and dangerous items of all often look the least harmful. Harnesses, flat collars, gentle leaders, and
It is important to note that electronic stim collars are much less aversive than other tools such as choke chains or prong collars. Matter of fact, Great Danes actually LOVE them!
Photo Credit to Hellen at Mumukodogsquad (Picture of sweet Dakota!) Photo Credit to Hellen at Mumukodogsquad (Picture of sweet Dakota!)
TWO: THERE IS NO ‘APPROPRIATE AGE’ FOR A SAFE TRAINING COLLAR
Your Great Dane has a small window of opportunity where their learning curve is huge and they are growing fast and learning quickly. This window is called puppyhood!
You should seize this as a learning opportunity for you and your dog!
There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ answer on what age you should begin using a dog collar on your dog.
However: it is crucial that your dog learn the basic command INDEPENDENT of the collar, before incorporating the collar into the regiment. If your dog responds to the ‘sit’ command, you can begin including the collar into their ‘sit’ routine.
THREE: E COLLAR TRAINING IS THE SAME AS REWARD BASED TRAINING
‘But using an electric collar on my dog removes the process of positive reinforcement…”
No… no it does not.
Using e collar conditioning with your dog is one of the most positive training methods you can use!
The e collar is a remote training tool that can be used to deliver positive or negative reinforcement. It is simply a device that helps you to more effectively communicate with your dog.
Like all training tools, the e collar should be used in conjunction with positive reinforcement such as treats, toys, and praise. Matter of fact- get ready to load up on treats! Here’s our favs:
Most of all, your Great Dane is RELYING on you to communicate with them to help them navigate what is right and what is wrong.
FOUR: BUT…PUPPIES NEED BOTH POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT AND NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT
Every single dog and puppy needs boundaries.
Positive only training is NOT going to work! You will create a dog who consistently relies on the use of treats, rewards, and other incentives in order to do what they should just do as a citizen of this world: the right thing.
In life, humans and dogs alike need to know right from wrong. There should be positive praise and communication and reward when we do the right thing. And likewise, there should be negative reinforcement for unwanted behavior. This method of combined positive training as well as providing explanation for wrongs is called balanced training.
All of these behaviors can be prevented with proper boundary training and proper collar training.
An e collar can provide a safe and effective way to protect your dog from engaging in unsafe behavior.
The single most important part about dog training is helping your dog learn to avoid negative or unsafe actions. After all, it is YOUR job to keep them safe.
SIX: SET UP YOUR DOG FOR POSITIVE ADVENTURES WHILE THEY ARE LITTLE
When you first get a dog, you imagine your life with them being full of wild adventures.
You want to visit lakes.
You want to go on long hikes.
You want to take them camping with you.
But the reality is that most dogs are NOT ready for those things when they are a small, still learning, puppy.
They need time to learn how to be a dog and how to behave in different situations.
Work to set up your dog for off leash adventures right from the start. Eliminate their desire to participate in negative or unsafe behavior by communicating with them from puppyhood.
The adventures will be worth it.
SEVEN: PREPARE YOUR PUPPY FOR EMOTIONAL STRESS OF LIFE
One day you’re on a walk and everything seems fine, and then suddenly your puppy starts barking.
You have NO idea why your dog begins this unwanted behavior, and you have NO idea how to stop it.
What you don’t realize is the HUNDREDS of stressors that are bombarding your dog during every single walk, every single moment.
The squirrel.
The cat.
The car that drives by.
All of these things can be stressful for your pup, and can cause them to behave in ways that are unwanted.
E collar training can help your dog to learn how to cope with the emotional stress of life. By using positive communication between yourself and your dog, you can help your dog to learn how to cope in a busy and stressful life.
EIGHT: PREVENT AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR BEFORE IT BEGINS
A confident dog is a happy dog.
An anxious dog is a stressed dog.
A stressed dog is a dog that is more likely to lash out in aggression.
E collar training can help your puppy to become a confident and happy dog.
Aggressive behaviors typically stem from fear. Your dog’s temperament is NOT (typically) normally aggressive.
Helping your Great Dane overcome fear will help them remain even-keeled, confident, calm, and composed throughout their lives.
If you, as their dog owner, begin consistently implementing collar communication with your dogs while they are little sponges, you can help mold their temperaments into healthy, strong dogs.
NINE: STIMULATE YOUR DOG’S MENTAL ENDURANCE WITH MORE THAN BASIC CONCEPTS
It is very important that your dog knows basic manners.
Most Great Dane owners will have practice sessions with their pups on things like sit, down, stay, come, etc.
BUT- it is just as important to keep your dog’s mind active and challenged with more than the basics.
Stim collar training can provide a way for you to challenge your dog mentally, while also providing physical activity.
Need help with modern e collar training? Check out our guide.
HOW DOES USING A STIMULATION COLLAR PROVIDE MORE FREEDOM?
Using an e collar during activities such as activities, adventures, hikes, camping, and even just everyday life, will help you and your dogs find the most freedom possible.
Hunting dogs are often trained on electronic stim collars, as many find huge success working to train hunting dogs with the powerful form of communication.
Sports dogs can also benefit from training with a stim collar.
Off leash adventures will be much more enjoyable and safe for both you and your dog if they have a good foundation in recall.
Hiking on pet friendly trails will become more exciting as your Great Dane is able to sniff/smell like they are biologically designed to do.
Eliminate stress while camping/adventuring as you can be relieved and stress free knowing that your Great Dane is not going to run away.
TEN: THERE ARE HEALTH REASONS FOR USING A STIMULATION COLLAR
Believe it or not, stimulation devices are the single healthiest form of training for our pets (in my opinion).
You may be shocked to hear that some popular forms of training are actually very dangerous.
The use of a dog shock collar: Shock collars can cause contact burns, irregular communication, and skin issues.
Harnesses: Harnesses are proven to create joint issues, spinal problems, and soft tissue damage.
Gentle leader: The ‘gentle’ leader is not so gentle after all. Known for pulling your dog’s neck in the direction that you want it to walk, the gentle leader is also known for causing soft tissue damage, neck injuries, and tracheal collapse.
Anti Bark Collars: Use with discretion. Many anti bark collars actually deliver a very high level of stimulation that can cause your dog to be in pain.
Flat Collars: Even flat collars can be harmful if your pet is not trained in loose leash training.
USING A PUPPY E COLLAR: IN CONCLUSION
Your Great Dane deserves your best.
It is your job to provide them with safety, socialization, life skills and training.
An e collar is an amazing tool that, when used correctly, can provide your dog with everything they need and more.
Don’t be afraid to give it a try with a Great Dane of many ages!
Today, we’ll be providing a comprehensive Gentle Giants dog food review, offering fresh insights to help you make an informed decision when choosing food for your Great Dane or other giant breed dog. We are experts in large and giant breed dogs, and share science-backed information!
This review is part of our ongoing series on dry dog food.
Here are some things I will cover in our Gentle Giants review:
Where Gentle Giants dog food is manufactured
If Gentle Giants food will make your dog live longer
The carbohydrate content of Gentle Giants dog food
Whether or not Gentle Giants can be fed to puppies
Our opinion on the quality of this pet food brand
Science and research behind dog nutrition
Gentle Giant Dog Food Ingredient Analysis
Here is a list of the ingredients in Gentle Giants’ chicken dog food formula. While they have other formulas, they are all comparable. For this review, chicken and rice will be used as an example.
Author’s Note: It’s important to note that we are not Veterinary Nutritionists, so our assessment is limited to a cursory examination, and we cannot provide a definitive judgment on commercial dog food recipes or the specific ingredients in this formula.
The addition of fruits and vegetablesin Gentle Giants is a marketing gimmick; the amounts of each of these would be so low that they essentially amount to fairy dust. Each one is listed after salt in the ingredients, which means they make up less than 1% of the final formula.
Green Lipped Mussel has some promising indications for joint health, but as with fruits and vegetables in this formula, there is very little of this product in the final food. It is unlikely to have any benefit at all.
According to Gentle Giants, this food is classified as a “natural formula” designed to offer balanced nutrition for dogs of all ages and sizes.
Carb Content of Gentle Giants Dog Food
It does appear to be high in starchy ingredients such as barley, brown rice, oatmeal, and peas, especially compared to many other dog foods and dry food recipes.
Brown rice is an excellent example of a typical healthy grain in Gentle Giant Dog food. Brown Rice may contain higher levels of arsenic than white rice, so brown rice must be included thoughtfully and only from companies that do a lot of product lab testing during and after production. It is unclear what their testing processes are.
This puts Gentle Giants dog food at a much higher carb content than Purina One Large Breed Chicken and Rice, which lands at 44% carbs, and higher than Purina Dog Chow Chicken which lands at 51% carbs.
This means that the Gentle Giants formula has LESS meat than other more established and known pet food brands.
It is priced at $44 U.S.D. for 30 pounds.
Author’s note: Purina Puppy/Dog Chow is $28 for 40 lbs. It’s a less expensive food by far, yet, has a lower carbohydrate content than Gentle Giants.
Dog Chow also has an insane amount of research (including lifetime feeding trials) behind the formulation. If you would not feed Purina Dog Chow to your pet, you should begin to recognize how Gentle Giants is unquestionably the lower quality option between the two.
Where is Gentle Giants Dog Food Manufactured
As of this update (2024), it is believed that Gentle Giants Pet foods are manufactured by Consumers Supply Distribution in Sioux City, Iowa. It is made in the U.S.A.
While marketing would like to lead consumers to believe otherwise, Gentle Giant pet food is a classic example of a mass-manufactured brand coming from a co-packing factory that is responsible for hundreds of other labels, formulas, and products.
Because it is unclear where Gentle Giants Dog food is made, I did a deep dive for this blog post!
Gentle Giants has a video on their website showing how their food is manufactured.
It starts with sweeping views of a factory, where a computer-generated version of their logo appears on the signage and distribution trucks. This would be believable to the untrained eye, but once you realize what is happening, it is clear that they are attempting to white-label the factory.
The video takes us inside the facility where this dog food is made, and we can see employees wearing “Consumers Supply” polo shirts.
Gentle Giants do NOT manufacture their food; they contract it out. While this is an acceptable albeit sub-standard practice (it’s better to choose pet foods coming from owned manufacturing facilities with strict quality control and dedication to the safety and bioavailability of the final product), it’s so much worse that they attempt to lie about it!
Consumers Supply manufactures and distributes several products that service the pet, wildlife, and livestock industries including food, minerals, salts, bird seed, and even rope and twine. They are commissioned by companies to make and distribute products and have no affiliation otherwise with the mission or branding of the product being sold.
Is Gentle Giants dog food made in China?
No, it is made in the U.S. However, most, if not all dog food companies (even ‘natural’ ones) source vitamins and minerals from other countries (including China).
Many people believe that their dog has grain allergies, however, this condition is exceedingly rare. Grains provide important nutrients and energy that dogs need to thrive.
Unfortunately, many grain-free dry dog foods have been associated with a preventable and deadly form of heart disease. We do not recommend feeding grain-free dry diets to dogs.
Is Gentle Giants dog food holistic?
The term ‘holistic’ is a marketing term that is not regulated. It’s made up!
Anybody can claim that the food they make and sell is “holistic”. It’s a catchy term that encourages well-meaning pet parents to make a purchase.
Holistic should imply that a food is formulated to treat the “whole body”.
Any good science-backed food would thus, actually be holistic. Comprehensive veterinary care including prevention is thus, holistic.
Gentle Giants dog food does claim to be “holistic”. Take that with a grain of salt. It doesn’t mean anything.
Gentle Giants is an “All Life Stages” food, meaning that it’s formulated for puppies and adults.
All Life Stages foods are essentially puppy foods. This can be okay in some cases, but in others, it’s simply a way for companies to minimize the need for different formulations, bags, and feeding trials.
When evaluating whether a food is appropriate for a large or giant breed puppy, it is critical to assess the calcium and phosphorus levels.
An appropriate food for a big puppy will have 1.2% or less calcium, a CA/PH ratio of as close to 1:1 as possible, and 3.5g or less calcium per 1000 kCal. It will also have the AAFCO large breed growth statement.
Ideally, the food will have also undergone feeding trials, extensive lab testing, and research, proving the availability of other important bone-growth nutrients such as Vitamin D, zinc, and phosphorus. From what we can tell, Gentle Giant’s food has not been subjected to rigorous and thorough testing.
Gentle Giants Chicken and Rice does have the AAFCO Large Breed Growth statement, indicating that the calcium level is expected to be 1.8% or less.
However, it is impossible to find calcium and phosphorus levels for this food. Without this information published and easy to find, we cannot verify that the food is 1.2% or less (the value recommended for giant breed puppies in particular). Additionally, we can not calculate how much calcium is in 1000 kCal of Gentle Giants puppy food.
As above, the food is co-packed in a massive manufacturing facility that makes many other brands and labels. This facility is probably responsible for the nutritional formulation as well, yet there is no indication of the qualifications of the individuals overseeing this process.
Tread cautiously when choosing to feed this food to a large or giant breed dog under the age of 2.
Incorrect nutritional values in puppyhood can increase the risk of dysplasia, bone damage, painful growth disorders, and even osteosarcoma bone cancer or wobblers disease!
Behind the Gentle Giants Food Brand
Our Gentle Giants dog food review would be incomplete without some information about what goes on behind the brand.
Not only does this food come with bold, in-your-face marketing geared toward pet owners with gentle giants, but it also has some interesting stories behind it. Read on, friends.
The Gentle Giants Rescue
Burt Ward (the owner of this brand) has been rescuing dogs with his wife in California for decades.
This unusual rescue makes wild claims about the longevity of the dogs (20+ years in some cases) living on their “all-natural dog food“, and says they have rescued over 14,000 pets.
Meanwhile, as of this writing, they have no animals available for adoption.
Many of the ‘available’ breeds they offer via this rescue are unusual and rare, including Staghounds, Xolo, “woodles”, and Saluki. They have had many, many litters of puppies, too.
Many people, including us, believe that this ‘rescue’ operation is nothing more than a glorified puppy mill.
They claim that 30-40 dogs live with them in “peace and harmony” on their property and that all are seniors exceeding their normal lifespan because of their “world-classfood and training program”.
There are many verifiable reports of neglect, poor living conditions, and uncontrolled dogs breeding at will in the unsupervised ‘Gentle Giants’ pack.
People seem to associate ‘celebrity’ with ‘trustworthy’.
Burt Ward played Robin in the 1960s Batman TV series.
That doesn’t make him a nutrition expert, last we checked…
Is Gentle Giants Dog Food Good?
We don’t stand behind any dry dog food that doesn’t stand with science. It’s that simple. The people behind Gentle Giants dog food do not participate in research, studies, or food trials.
The only “proof” they have of the efficacy and safety of their food is the claims made that their pack of “rescue” dogs are all over the age of 10.
A cursory glance at dog food reviews of this product indicates that some people have had no trouble feeding this food and swear by it while others experienced blood in the urine, inflammation, loose stools, and itching.
Has Gentle Giants Food Ever Been Recalled?
As of this writing, it appears that Gentle Giants food has never been recalled.
We see this as a red flag. Why?
A company that will recall its food is a company that wants to control the quality and the consistency, even if the problem that led to the recall is minor.
When a company has never issued a recall, voluntary or otherwise, you can pretty much bet that they are casually overlooking some things so that they can continue to say ‘no recalls’ in their marketing.
Boutique Dog Foods vs. Science
Boutique ‘feel good’ dog foods, including Gentle Giants, rely on careful marketing to sell the brand.
They tend to use buzzwords such as “human grade”, “all-natural”, “no recalls”, “super-premium”, or “holistic”. This can lead consumers to feel that they are purchasing something healthier for their pet (even if no actual health benefits have been proven by any legitimate science).
Even the word “farm-raised chicken” is meant to evoke a certain feeling or emotion about the food. All chickens are raised on farms!
Common ’boutique’ companies that you may have heard of or seen include Fromm, Orijen, 4Health, Halo, Solid Gold, Nulo, Nutro, Zignature, The Farmer’s Dog, Muenster, and Life’s Abundance.
What’s interesting about boutique dog food is that, despite the health claims they make, there is very little science going into the food itself.
Many people are shocked to learn that very few (if any) boutique food companies have a legitimate nutritionist formulating their foods. In many cases, the person making the recipe is even less qualified than a veterinarian.
For example, Fromm (who relies on the ‘ family-owned’ mantra to sell food) is formulated by a chemical engineer.
Victor Foods are formulated by somebody with a master in science and an online certificate in dairy cattle nutrition.
Diamond brand foods (including Taste of the Wild, Costco/Kirkland, Diamond, and Nutra Nuggets) are formulated by a computer and packaged in different bags to appeal to different markets.
Boutique brands also don’t participate in nutrition research and science. In many cases, the pet foods they make are only “formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by AAFCO”, on paper.
This sounds great, but all that means is that on paper they’ve added enough nutrients to satisfy a minimum legal guideline. It doesn’t mean that they’ve tested and proven the formulation itself.
So when a brand is telling you they are “super-premium” and “holistic”, ask yourself if you are being sold to, or if that food has legitimate science backing its claims of being “healthier”.
Want to see how YOUR current dog food stacks up? Visit the Pet Nutrition Alliance and look your brand up.
Each food company was asked to provide information about just a few key things, including who formulates their food.
You’ll notice that many boutique dog food brands refused to share the requested information because it is damning to their brand.
We smell something fishy here, folks, and it’s not the fish meal in your bag of kibble.
The Great Grain-Free Debate
So what is inherently wrong with a “super-premium”, “natural” dog food from a boutique company, anyways? Let’s talk for a moment about the great grain-free pet food debate.
Many otherwise ‘healthy’ shiny dogs ‘with good poop’ who randomly die while playing or after going for a walk have been diagnosed with, or even passed from DCM, and the owners never knew something was wrong.
No official pre-death diagnosis means that very little data is collected on the dogs who die this way. The devastated owners move on with their lives, assuming that their dog had a genetic problem. Veterinarians around the country are seeing it happen over and over again.
While genetics do play a role in primary DCM, secondary DCM is believed to be caused by unbalanced nutrition. These dogs are essentially starved for certain amino acids and micro-nutrients: the heart enlarges and eventually gives out.
This brings us back to the fact that a sound majority of boutique dog food brands do not employ a board-certified veterinary nutritionist to formulate their food. This includes Gentle Giants.
As a Great Dane owner, you could not PAY me to feed Gentle Giants dog food.
Nutritional levels established by AAFCO
AAFCO is a non-profit agency that works in tandem with government regulatory agencies. Regulatory agencies moderate and enforce nutrition and food safety, and AAFCO was established to help with definitions and requirements.
The AAFCO label on every dog food bag is there to help you establish if the formula is correct for your dog.
All of this canine nutrition information can be frustrating and alarming to Great Dane owners who want to choose the best foods for their giant dogs!
We recommend picking a highly-researched, truly science-backed brand that employs highly qualified professionals (Veterinary Nutritionists) to formulate their food.
Find out if the formulations from those brands are substantiated in actual food tests, or if they just look correct on paper.
Ask if the brand has made any contributions to widely accepted canine nutrition science (the very science that has also now made it possible to feed Great Danes puppy food instead of adult food, YAY!).
Contrary to what small boutique brands want you to believe, the blueberries and spinach they have added in minuscule amounts to make you ‘feel good’ are doing nothing but lining their pockets.
If you want your dog to have blueberries, toss a few whole ones into their food, instead! Serving a balanced meal is important, however, so no matter what, make sure that toppers make up less than 10% of your dog’s overall dry dog food diet.
We recommend Large Breed Purina Pro Plan (puppy or adult, salmon recipe) or Royal Canin Giant Breed foods as the gold standard in healthy, highly researched dog foods for your gentle giant. However, Eukanuba and Iams have solid choices for you as well, at all price points!
Picky dogs hate their food after a short time. If you have a picky gentle giant, we recommend sticking with the same food, avoiding bribery, and making food FUN by offering it in puzzles or for training.
Senior dogs may eat less, too. Don’t mistake this natural behavior for ‘pickiness’.
The Dog Food Advisor Blog
Many people turn to the Dog Food Advisor blog for information about choosing pet food. It’s one of the top blogs to show up on a Google search when looking for dog food reviews!
The Dog Food Advisor rates the Gentle Giants brand as 4/5 stars and considers it an ‘above average dry product’ with a ‘moderate amount of meat’.
Here is the thing about the Dog Food Advisor. That blog was created by a human dentist with absolutely no credentials at all in veterinary nutrition. The rating system is made up.
Of course, we aren’t veterinary nutritionists either. But unlike the Dog Food Advisor, we aren’t making up a ratings system. Our evaluation of food is based purely on nutrition science and company manufacturing practices and ethics.
We align ourselves with veterinarians and veterinary nutritionists, for a reason. Our recommendations may not “look pretty” and “feel good” like the ones on the Dog Food Advisor, but we can confidently state that our information is based on science, NOT what results in more clicks and traffic.
That said, the Dog Food Advisor does rate Pro Plan as a top pick on its ‘recommended foods list’, and states that it is one of the only brands highly tested and formulated by a team of veterinary nutritionists. They are correct about that.
Our Rating of Gentle Giants Dog Food
This is one food we think you should skip.
No science.
Wild and questionable marketing claims about longevity (“Your dog can live longer!”).
Affiliated with a sketchy ‘giant breed rescue’ (very likely a puppy mill, but at the least nothing more than a wild pack of dogs that are fed out of trash cans and left to their own devices).
Unclear calcium/phosphorus levels.
Co-packed in a random factory.
Higher carb content than “low quality” Purina Dog Chow.
Electronic collar training, often referred to as “e-collar” training, is a modern method used to train dogs. Unfortunately, it is riddled with myths and misconceptions that can cloud the understanding of this tool’s actual purpose and effectiveness. In this article, we will debunk some of the common E-collar training myths and shed light on the responsible and humane use of electronic collars in dog training.
It’s essential to separate fact from fiction to make informed decisions about this training technique!
What is an E-Collar?
An electronic collar, commonly known as an e-collar or shock collar, is a device designed for dog training and behavior modification. It consists of a collar that fits around a dog’s neck and a handheld remote control.
The primary function of an e-collar is to deliver electronic stimulation. This tactile sensation is a powerful way to communicate with a dog from afar, and it doesn’t have to be painful or unfair.
While the term “shock collar” may sound harsh, it’s important to note that modern e-collars have evolved significantly and offer adjustable levels of stimulation, allowing trainers to use them in a more humane and controlled manner. These devices are not meant to harm or punish the dog but rather to provide clear and consistent communication during training sessions.
When used responsibly, e-collars can be effective tools for teaching dogs to obey commands, prevent certain behaviors, and enhance their overall safety and well-being. However, it’s crucial to emphasize that e-collar training should always be carried out by knowledgeable and experienced trainers who prioritize the dog’s comfort and safety.
Think of it as a wireless leash, but without the physical restraint of a flat collar or harness that can be dangerous or damaging to you or your Great Dane. Today we are going to share 6 E-Collar Training myths that you MUST know about!
Modern Day E-Collars vs. Shock Collars
Many people are confused about the difference between a shock collar and an E-Collar. The difference is HUGE!
A shock collar will deliver a sharp zapping sensation that is meant to be aversive and painful. They are often inexpensive and may lack reliability.
Many people who resort to shock training are at their “wit’s end” with their pet’s behavior, and looking to get their attention with a beep, vibrate, or shock. Negative body language (cowering, running away, yelping, avoidance) is often seen!
E-Collars are different. Also known as “remote electric training collars”, they use electricity to stimulate the muscle. The sensation from a modern E-Collar is a touch sensation that is not meant to be aversive or painful
At low levels, where most pets are responsive, the sensation is imperceptible to humans. At higher levels, it can feel like tiny ants crawling around or a twitch or tickle, not a shock. At the highest levels, it is uncomfortable, but not sharp.
E-Collars offer a versatile, humane, gentle tactile communication that dogs respond to with enthusiasm and positivity!
The exchange of occasional, low-level muscle stimulation, that the dog knows how to turn off, is such an incredible, elegant, and simple trade-off for having absolutely NO leash pressure, no restrictions to movement, and the ability to run, jump, zoom, circle, sniff and explore naturally.
Why are dog E-Collars controversial?
E-Collars are controversial because people don’t understand them.
‘Positive only’ and ‘Force-free’ trainers use a lot of poorly done studies and emotional marketing to promote the idea that electronic training collars are abusive, no matter what.
They believe that shock collar training and e-collar training are the same things (they aren’t!) and that both tools are used deliberately and unfairly to hurt, scare, punish and confuse dogs.
The truth is that incorrect use of poor shock devices can and do cause pain and behavioral problems. No legitimate, ethical and professional dog trainer will recommend a shock collar, especially not to harshly punish aggression and reactivity.
The studies and case studies that people often cite in reference to electric training collars and similar tools (such as prongs) are typically based on harsh or punitive training and other incorrect use scenarios.
E-Collars are very different than shock collars. Many balanced trainers use and recommend high-quality E-Collars for off-leash reliability. The controversial part is that people just don’t know or understand the difference between correct use and abuse.
E-Collars are a communication tool that provides clarity and guidance, not confusion. Using this training tool correctly is all about providing information.
The end goal of proper e-collar training is to give your pet more autonomy, choice, and enrichment, without relying on physical restraint or harsh corrections.
Despite the controversy surrounding remote collar training, the truth is that dogs correctly and thoughtfully taught with this method are confident, balanced, obedient, and have more freedom and autonomy than others can only dream of.
We believe that reward-based training paired with thoughtfully balanced techniques (including e-collars and prong collars) can keep thousands (if not millions) of bored, ‘stubborn’ dogs out of shelters, too.
Myth #1: E-Collars make your dog afraid of you
We highly recommend watching Larry Krohn e collar training videos on his Youtube channel. He has an insane library of content where you can see videos of pets being trained with E-collars who are confident, friendly, and not afraid of Larry Krohn at all.
One mistake many pet owners make when training their dogs with a shock collar is that they rely on it as a punishment tool. Many feel guilty about that so they begin waving the remote as a threat, hoping to stop an act before resorting to zap corrections.
With the aforementioned approach, the pet quickly learns that the remote means they are in trouble. They don’t often know why, only that they should run away. This can make it appear that a remote collar-wearing dog is afraid of its owner!
What’s worse is that teaching an animal to fear the remote and the collar means teaching them run away from the owner, rather than to recall, check-in, and engage.
Correct modern e-collar training relies on both parties involved having mutual respect for each other, and that includes a recall (coming when called) foundation that is rock solid. The remote tool becomes a cell phone, not a big stick that you beat your dog with.
The remote tool and the collar should not be used as threats or for punitive punishments, and if you watch videos of animals being thoughtfully and correctly E-Collar trained you will see positive body language, mutual respect, and enthusiasm.
Train your companion with communication, not fear.
Myth #2: E-Collars burn dog’s necks
While a cheap shock collar can cause damage to the neck, it is impossible for an E-Collar to burn skin. This is another wild myth often promoted by people who have never even felt the stimulation from an E-Collar themselves.
We are a science-based blog, so let’s dig into this!
Cheap shock training devices from Amazon can malfunction, run hot, and shock your dog at the wrong time. Those collars can absolutely cause damage.
An E-Collar from a reputable, high-quality company such as Educator Technologies will cost $175 or more to purchase, and with good reason. Reliability and modern tech are huge when it comes to training ethically and humanely with any kind of remote collar.
The technology that uses electric currents for muscle stimulation (from an E-Collar) is more advanced than the technology required to deliver a sharp static zap (from a cheap shock device).
It’s the difference between buying an old used Samsung s3 and buying an iPhone 13, only this is used to train your dog (not flip through Tik Tok).
Because the electric output of modern electronic collars is less than .01amp at the highest level, it is impossible for this training tool to burn a dog’s skin.
Remember, this modern version uses electrical currents to stimulate the muscle, not cause pain.
Incorrect use of ANY remote collar, however, CAN lead to pressure sores. The contact points are made of metal and can be an irritant when they aren’t rotated and kept clean. This is not unlike a poorly fit harness or head collar, which can cause rubbing and sores too.
User error is a problem resolved only by education and dedication (hence the reason we are here)!
To eliminate the chance of irritation and pressure sores, the collar must be fit correctly (snug, preferably with a bungee collar), the contact points must be kept clean, and the collar must be rotated or removed every few hours.
Electric training collars should never be worn overnight or unsupervised. For pets with sensitive skin, contact points made of different materials are available to try.
This is true of shock devices, for which the only purpose is to punish, scare, and correct.
A properly used E-Collar on the other hand can provide guidance that will improve your relationship and provide your pet with enrichment and opportunities that only a well-behaved dog can have.
With E-Collar training, it’s important that your pup understands what the stimulation sensation means. Through a fun training process using basic obedience commands and conditioning, your dog learns how to respond to and be in control of the sensation.
The dog becomes a willing and active participant in the training.
This pressure becomes a communication, not a punishment, and the pup knows that it means good things to them. Training starts with a good foundation and lots of fun, not harsh punishment or ‘trigger happy’ corrections.
The application of E-Collar pressure is no more “inhumane” than the pressure from a leash and harness; the only difference is that there is no longer a reliance on physical restraint and thus, no damage to the neck, head, or shoulders. The pressure is ‘virtual’, in other words!
Your pet will be able to make choices and move freely, all in exchange for communication from their ‘wireless device’. With this method, the dog dictates every move, free of restraint and you can communicate using a language they understand.
A dog on a long line does not behave the same way as a dog off-leash using a modern wireless tool.
A dog on a long line cannot zoom, spin circles, safely play or climb on, around, or under trees.
Sniffing is great and awesome for dogs, calming, and extremely beneficial for helping them settle and lower their heart rates, but that should not be the only goal! The proper use of modern tools can offer both the “sniffari” and much-needed off-leash enrichment.
The proper fit of a comfortable E-Collar bungee strap: snug with two fingers of room.
The long line should be a backup, when required to satisfy leash laws. When possible, however, it should not be the only way that your Dane gets all of its enrichment and ‘free movement’.
A Dane getting tangled up in a long line is dangerous to you and to themselves.
The E-Collar training method is extremely effective, and those being trained correctly on modern, high-quality remote collars show positive body language and excitement. They can easily be redirected away from incorrect activities, too.
Can an E-collar be used at aversive levels to punish or correct a dog? Absolutely.
But there is a huge difference between punitive corrections and thoughtfully balancing ‘yes and no’ with rewards and the occasional use of an E-Collar correction.
A harlequin Great Dane wearing a remote electric wireless collar and enjoying a creek!
Myth #4: E-Collar training is not ‘science-based’
Well, where do we start! Buckle up, this is a big one.
Many ‘positive-only’ trainers claim to be ‘science-based’. This statement they use in their marketing comes from studies that have shown how positive reinforcement, aka “R+” (the quadrant, not the training method) is the most humane and effective technique for training new behaviors.
We LOVE using R+ to instill tricks, obedience, and confidence!
Positive reinforcement is not the same thing as ‘positive-only’ training, however.
One is a key piece of operant conditioning and a huge part of any good training program. The latter (positive-only or force-free training) is a training method.
The training method of ‘positive-only’ uses a lot of R+ to reward behaviors.
So does balanced training, actually.
The best trainers use a lot of R+ in their techniques, no matter where they fall on the positive to balanced spectrum (and yes, there is a spectrum! No wonder dog training is so confusing to people).
R+ is not some magical or exclusive gem that only “science-based positive trainers” use and live by. All good trainers use positive reinforcement whether they market themselves as ‘force-free’ or ‘balanced’.
Catch our drift, yet? ‘Science-based’ has been diluted to a marketing term in this case, and as a truly science-based blog, that makes us uncomfortable!
To better understand how canine learning science works, and why ‘balanced’ training is not abusive or inhumane as some people may have led you to believe, here is a little lesson for you!
There are four quadrants of operant conditioning, and people (including ‘professionals’) misunderstand them often. We get it, these can be confusing. BUT, in the interest of science, we’re going to dig in!
Here they are in layman’s terms!
Dictionary, for the purpose of understanding the four quadrants of operant conditioning in dog training:
POSITIVE = To add something NEGATIVE = To take something away REINFORCEMENT = To increase a behavior PUNISHMENT = To reduce a behavior
Positive Reinforcement (R+) = The dog gets a treat for sitting
Positive Punishment (P+) = The dog is hit in the face for barking
Negative Reinforcement (R-) = A barrier is removed when the dog waits calmly to go outside
Negative Punishment (P-) = Freedom is removed so the dog can’t run away
R+ should always be used to reward and encourage the repetition of all new skills!
This includes the obedience commands sit, down, wait, leave it, come, heel and place.
However, all dogs, even “good” ones, do things they shouldn’t do.
That includes pulling, barking, lunging, bolting out the door, chasing cats, stealing food, jumping the fence, and running away.
As a Great Dane owner, you have likely experienced some of this!
Many of these things are unsafe and even life-threatening, however, they are all normal dog behaviors!
The first step to combat this is, of course, using R+ to train the dog on what they should be doing instead. You cannot combat shenanigans unless you are willing to teach the dog with rewards, fun, praise and play what it should know!
Pulling: teach heel with high-value treats Stealing: teach “leave-it” with a toy and some kibble Door Dashing: teach the dog to turn away from open doors
Despite this training, however, many dogs will still unsafely bolt out a door, jump on somebody, pull on the lead after a squirrel, or blow off a recall…no matter how many treats you offer.
You know, because…DOGS are DOGS and they are going to do doggie things!
Did we mention this other scientific tidbit? For many dogs, chasing a squirrel or experiencing the freedom offered by door dashing is infinitely MORE rewarding than any treat you can offer.
This leaves all dog lovers, even those who believe ONLY using ‘R+’, with two options to fix the problem:
a. Negative Punishment: Remove choice, freedom, and access to things as a means to decrease something the dog does or is doing. This is essentially “management” to prevent behaviors and may need to be implemented for the life of the dog.
AND / OR
b. Positive Punishment: Add a correction (NO!) so the dog understands they cannot do something. A correction could be anything from a simple ‘ah ah’ to flat out hitting the dog in the face.
Not all corrections have to be painful or abusive. If the bank give you a $35 fine (bummer!) for bouncing a check, they’ve used positive punishment. It didn’t hurt you, but it will make you think twice about forgetting to balance your checkbook again!
Punishment abounds in dog training whether people admit it or not. Here are some examples:
Keeping a dog on a tether in a fenced yard because they escape (negative punishment)
Putting a dog behind a gate because they jump on guests (negative punishment)
A no-pull harness pulls the dog to the side if they lunge forward (positive punishment)
Science-based fact: even ‘positive only’ and ‘force free’ people use punishment in their training. This includes the use of training tools that punish and reduce behaviors, despite their promotion that ‘all punishment is abusive‘. ?
Another interesting science-based fact: modern E-Collar use relies primarily on negative reinforcement to reward and strengthen behaviors. Yay science!
Good, thoughtful balanced E-Collar trainers rarely use their E-Collar for corrections (“positive punishment“). If they do, it’s most often as communication to immediately stop a dangerous or unsafe behavior in dogs that know what they should be doing instead.
Unlike traditional punishment, this is one correction that a properly conditioned and trained dog knows how to respond to and control!
There is nothing wrong with thoughtfully implemented corrections, including behavior management.
Run from any “professional” trainer who tells you that all “balanced” professionals abuse, hurt and punish animals all day. This is misguided, uneducated, and inflammatory language.
Run further if a professional will claim to “never use punishment, corrections, or ‘negative reinforcement’ of any kind“. That is a clear sign that they don’t actually understand science or how tools and techniques, including the tools that they use, actually work.
Run just as far if the details they share indicate that you should shock, choke, kick, alpha-roll or hit to treat your dog’s reactivity. Remember, extremes are bad news!
Dogs have no clue why they are always on a long leash or never get to go on walks.
Isolation, physical restraint, and restrictions are sometimes necessary, but they are not actually clear or fair communication when you really search and start to think about it.
Strict behavioral management in the name of ‘errorless learning’ is the basis of ‘force-free’ training programs. Training dogs is so much more complicated than just ‘R+’, as you can see.
The marketing of “force-free” dog training and its overwhelming reliance on management to avoid corrections can be just as inhumane and unfair to a dog as harsh and punitive shock punishments.
It’s time we talk about that, folks!!!!
Good trainers will recognize that it requires skill to thoughtfully manage dog behavior, and will make the most ethical and humane choice for a dog between management and fair corrections.
In other words, while behavior management is an important piece of the training puzzle, there are times when it’s more humane, ethical, and fair to use a correction (and communicate, fully) than it is to rely on confinement and restrictions.
For example, just because a dolphin in captivity can be taught using ‘R+ only’, it doesn’t mean that keeping the dolphin in strict captivity is fair.
A captive marine animal cannot exhibit natural behaviors such as hunting and freely swimming long distances. These are behaviors for which “R+” on its own would be wildly ineffective in reducing.
These natural behaviors don’t have to be reduced because the animal is too confined to do them in the first place. It’s easy to avoid mistakes that happen with natural behavior when you don’t have the opportunity to act naturally in the first place.
Millions of dogs are living the life of the captive dolphin because so many owners and dog professionals market the misguided idea that you should just further manage (restrict) your dog instead of correcting and communicating with them. It’s devastating.
We are seeing an entirely new decade of methodology that believes pets must be babied and spoiled and never told ‘NO’.
Many of these dogs are not going on walks, cannot be safely off-leash, have to be in a crate when guests come over, are not trusted around an open front door, have to be gated away from the kitchen and definitely do not get to go on so much as a picnic with their owner.
We are seeing endemic levels of frustration-based anxiety and reactivity that have never been seen before in pet dogs.
We think there is a problem here, and what’s ironic is that it takes behavior science (yes, science!) to fix it. When we are working with our dogs, it’s important to give them the information they need to make the right decisions. That means saying a LOT of ‘YES’ and also being ok with saying ‘NO’!
Thoughtfully balanced training and e-collar use are, you guessed it, based on science. You can, in fact, say NO and hold your pet accountable without hurting, scaring, or abusing them.
Myth #5: E-Collar training will make your dog aggressive
This goes with our science-based training information above.
Aggression typically has roots in the following things: genetics, hormones, habit, poor socialization, past experiences, frustration, and fear.
You can cause frustration and fear in a dog by alpha rolling them. You can also cause it by shocking or punishing your dog for reacting, especially without addressing the underlying root cause. You can even cause aggressive reactivity with poor leash handling, even if the dog is in a ‘harness’ and being fed piles of treats.
Incorrect training of all types can cause aggression, modern positive E-Collar methods does not.
Myth #6: E-Collars are for lazy people
Balanced training using an E-Collar requires more time, more diligence, more educated ownership, and more attention to detail than people seem to be aware of.
There is no such thing as a good, fair, humane, or truly effective training program that is “quick and easy”.
Taking a dog off-leash, understanding dog interactions, training the dog what the language of their E-Collar means, using lots of praise, play, rewards, treats, freedom and toys, and giving a dog enrichment, opportunities, and experiences that most dogs never experience?
We think that is far from lazy. Don’t fall for the negative marketing!
Why should I use an E-Collar?
We believe that all Great Danes should be E-Collar trained because it’s the most humane way to remove the reliance on physical restraints (including head collars, harnesses, and collars) that can cause harm, frustration, injury, and damage.
Giant breed dogs are strong and powerful; if you are relying solely on your ability to physically overpower and restrain your dog with some kind of physical device such as a collar or harness, you are setting both you and your dog up for failure.
Off-leash freedom is just one benefit; having an amazing relationship with your dog and being able to control your giant anywhere at any time, even on a flat collar alone, are key reasons to choose modern, positive balanced low-stim E-Collar training.
When your dog understands what is expected of them, and what they can and cannot do, you’ll be giving them a precious gift that will help them thrive.
You can train your dog to walk politely on a leash using an E-Collar or a humane Herm Sprenger prong collar. Leash walking can be a tough skill to work on when your Dane can overpower you without even trying!
These tools will give you a gentle and effective way to communicate so that actual living and enjoying every moment of life can begin.
How long does it take to train with an E-Collar?
It depends on how good of a trainer you are, and how much of a foundation you’ve already installed using positive training techniques.
A dog that has 60% recall can be safely off-leash with 100% recall in their E-Collar within weeks, following the positive conditioning process.
A dog that is wild, frustrated, lunging, destructive, shut down, anxious, and even aggressive will require more time. We recommend working with a highly qualified positive-balanced trainer to address the root cause of these behaviors.
How do you train with an E-Collar?
When you teach your dog with an E-Collar, you start by using positive R+ training to teach basic commands such as sit, down, leave it, place and COME!
Then you find your dog’s “working-level”. This is the lowest level of stimulation that they respond to.
Most dogs are responsive and enthusiastic to learn on a Mini-Educator at between a level 3 and 7. Humans typically cannot even feel the same sensation until the remote has been dialed up to a level 12 or even 20.
They always report surprise that the stimulation, once they do feel it, is both nearly imperceptible and non-aversive!
This response is paired with treats, so the dog learns that when they feel that, good things happen.
Through a process of conditioning from that point forward, the dog learns to control when the stimulation is on or off and learns that they can turn it off themselves.
By using the continuous button instead of the tap button, the stimulation can then be applied as a constant sensation paired with a command such as ‘come’, and then immediately removed when the dog begins to recall.
This is also known as ‘negative reinforcement’ and is a very simple and rewarding ‘pressure on, pressure off’ communication that mirrors leash pressure, just without the leash.
This allows you to communicate with your dog by ‘touching’ them, which can be insanely helpful for deaf dogs, dogs with ‘selective hearing’ or when you are in noisy environments such as the beach.
Higher levels are used in higher-distraction environments, just like your friend might have to speak louder to communicate with you in a noisy bar vs. when you are at home. Higher levels aren’t necessarily more aversive!
The stimulation from a modern E-Collar replaces prong, head halter, long line and harness pressure so that you and your pet can enjoy safe movement free of restraint.
Does this gentle simulation annoy the dog? Sure. That’s one reason it works. Just like your ringing cell phone makes you pick it up and answer. The timer on your oven makes you get up and take the cookies out. Your pants getting too tight makes you undo the button. All of these activities are first annoying and second, inherently rewarding!
Pressure does not have to hurt or be painful to be effective at changing your behavior.
Is Larry Krohn a good dog trainer?
Larry Krohn is our recommendation for learning about positive E-Collar dog training.
You can watch some of our favorite videos from his YouTube channel below! YouTube is a great resource for both good and bad methods, so here are some trainer channels that we do and don’t recommend as well.
NO: Jeff Gellman (too much compulsion and flooding) Cesar Milan (outdated intimidation ‘dominance’ method) Most franchise-based trainer companies (unreliable, tend to be heavily punishment-based)
What kind of E-Collar does Larry Krohn use?
Larry Krohn uses and recommends the same collars that we do, by Educator technologies! You can purchase them from us below, with free U.S. Shipping and email support during training.
When it comes to using an e collar on your dog, there is a right and wrong way to do it.
Do you feel like giving up using e collars to train your dog? Is it just not working. Well, we have one last thing for you to try before you call it quits with your training.
Pet owners who gear up to use a training collar often find themselves frustrated, stating that their training goals aren’t going as planned.
Improper placement of the e collar is one of the BIGGEST problems with your dogs training. A proper fit on your dog’s neck should be the FIRST STEP in e collar training.
You seem to think ‘I have no idea if this thing is working’ often
If you notice any of these problems- you might have missed an important e collar detail: proper contact and a snug fit.
HOW DO I MAKE SURE THAT THE COLLAR FITS MY DOG?
The way that e collar dog training works is from the communication between the remote and the points that rest on your Great Dane’s skin.
When you push the button on the remote, you should rely on your dog’s collar to send stimulation to their skin, alerting them that you are attempting to communicate with them.
If these contacts do not fit snugly on your dog’s neck, they will not send proper stimulation, or any at all for that matter.
Even if just one of the contact points touches your dog’s neck, but not both, your dog will receive NO sign or indication from the collar.
Therefore, if you do not make sure that the collar is extremely snug on your dog, making contact with its skin and not just it’s hair, it will feel ABSOLUTELY NOTHING at all.
CONTACT POINTS ON YOUR GREAT DANE’S SKIN
Contact points are the two metal pieces that come in touch with your Great Dane’s skin when you are using the e collar.
They should fit snug on your dog’s neck, right behind their ears.
You will want to make sure that these contact points have direct contact with your Great Dane’s skin and not just their fur.
If they do not have direct and physical touch to the skin, your dog will not feel the stimulation and it will be as if you never even pushed the button on the remote.
MY DOG IS YELPING WHEN WEARING ITS COLLAR
If you notice that your Great Dane is yelping when wearing the e collar, you should question the position in which you have the collar.
If your dog leans downward, for example, it creates space between the collar and the neck. But when it leans back up right, the position of the collar is altered.
Therefore, when using a level, let’s say 20, your dog will not feel the stim at all while leaning downward, but will be taken completely off guard when leaning upward.
The yelping is probably a result of incorrect position of the collar: a complete surprise at the sudden sensation upon finally feeling the point.
MY DOG HAS PRESSURE SORES UNDERNEATH ITS FUR / ON ITS NECK
If you notice your dog has developed pressure sores, it is likely from the e collar being too loose on their neck or you are wearing the wrong points.
PROPERLY FIT E COLLARS WILL NOT CREATE IRRITATION
As we stated before, the points must have direct contact with the skin and feel almost uncomfortably (to you) tight in order for proper stimulation to be felt.
A loose fit will cause the metal pieces to slide around on your dog’s neck. If the collar constantly rubs through your dog’s coat and hair- it can cause extreme skin irritation.
Work to tighten your collar strap until you can just fit two fingers underneath of the collar strap and the neck.
The collar should feel very tight and have no ‘wiggle room’.
ARE YOU USING THE RIGHT LENGTH OF CONTACT POINT?
There are different lengths of points which should be chosen wisely for good contact on skin.
For example: Short-haired dogs will need the shortest points so that the metal has direct contact with their skin.
On the other hand, long-haired dogs will need longer metal pieces to make sure the stim is not being lost in all of the fur.
Great Danes have very short / thin hair, and therefore usually the point that works best for them is the ¼ inch.
The next size up would be the ½ inch and so on. The longest point is usually no longer than one inch in length and would be for a pet with long hair, whereas the shortest contact points are 1/4 inch.
Comfort Pads
Comfort pads can be the answer to a lot of problems. Comfort pads are small, rubber discs that go in-between the points and your Great Dane’s body.
This provides a buffer between the metal piece and your dog’s body. It also helps with making sure the contact points do not get lost in all of the fur (as we discussed before).
If you have a pup with very sensitive skin, a short coat, or you are just trying to avoid any irritation, comfort pads may be the way to go.
WHERE DOES THE E COLLAR GO ON MY DOGS NECK?
The e collar should be positioned with the strap snug around your dog’s head, right behind their ears.
You will want to make sure that the contact points have direct contact with your dog’s skin and not just their fur.
If they do not have direct contact, your Great Dane will not feel the stimulation and it will be as if you never even pushed the button on the remote.
The best place to keep the collar is on it’s head, right behind one of the ears. If the collar hangs in the front of the neck, skin can become easily irritated.
SHOULD MY GREAT DANE WEAR THE COLLAR ALL THE TIME?
The answer to this question is usually no. You should only put the e collar on your Great Dane when you are actively training them or if they are in a situation where they may need a communication (i.e. if they are about to run into the street) or you’d like them to recall.
You should remove the collar every few hours to ensure that your dog’s skin does not become irritated.
It is also a good idea to remove the collar when your dog is eating or drinking so that they do not get food or water on the contact points (which can cause irritation) and so that they can have full range of their body.
THE FINAL STEP
After you have double-checked that the contact points are properly fitted that the strap is snug but not too tight, and that you are using the correct length of contact point- it’s time to put the e collar on your dog and start training!
Check out our guide for more detail on how to begin working with an e collar!
Need help with modern e collar training? Check out our guide.
My road to the e collar was definitely not clear cut: I had absolutely no idea how to use an e collar. Heck, I didn’t even know what an e collar was.
What I did know was that I had two Great Dane puppies who were 8 weeks old. They were supposed to be sweet, charming, and adorable. But instead, all they were doing was ripping up my carpet, eating my bedroom walls, peeing EVERYWHERE, and destroying my house.
Meet Banks and Roo:
Yes- I ripped out my carpet within a few months and opted for Pergo (Thanks Home Depot!)
To say I had a bad day was an understatement.
These puppies were quickly turning into horses. What the heck was I going to do with them when they were in complete control over me- and not the other way around.
First, my sweet female Great Dane, named Banks, decided to eat my carpet.
She thought it was fun.
‘Other dogs don’t do this’, I thought. Dog training is supposed to be about sitting, laying, basic things- everyday life. Not how to stop eating carpet!
I was horrified.
My Immediate and Irrational Use of a Shock Collar
In my horror, I immediately did what many, many dog owners do.
I resorted to Amazon.
‘Training collar’, ‘Electronic Collars’, ‘Shock Collar‘- I begin frantically tapping faster than my fingers could even type.
Before I could barely throw away the bubble wrap, the collar was on the dog’s neck.
‘Zap!’ I thought as I begin tapping and pushed the button.
The dogs looked at me with a hurt and betrayed look in their eyes. They had no idea what they did wrong, but they knew mommy was mad. And that’s all that mattered to them.
Banksy curled under my legs, even though I wanted her to sit. Roo ran upstairs, even though in my mind he was going to lay down.
Where was their perfect behavior?
Learning that Shock Collars are NOT It
I started to sweat. My dog was stressing. I was stressing.
My dog was not giving me any behavior or indication that they were about to listen… WHY! WHY. What is it going to take to get these dogs to drop the undesirable behavior and actually start to listen?
The Reality Sinks In
As my dog sat and stared at me, I stop tapping the handheld remote.
This animal in front of me has absolutely NO idea what I’m saying- I think.
How do I speak ‘dog’? Frantic panic sets in. I looked down at the shock collar. Well, I know electric shock collars are NOT working. Positive reinforcement, by itself, is NOT working. I’m losing control, and it’s happening fast.
With this feeling of losing control of my dogs behavior…. I start to search for answers.
In my search- I realized that the shock collar didn’t work because it wasn’t paired with anything else.
I didn’t know how to use the collar, when to use it, or what it was for.
To them, the shock collar was just a terrible sensation on their neck with absolutely NO meaning. My dog’s sensitivity was more important to me than anything else.
I had to find a better training program, and I had to do it quickly!
Discovering The E Collar Training Process
Back to the drawing board, I needed to find something my dogs would actually respond to.
I had to get creative.
The answer?
Although it took months to find, I found what works best for me and my dogs: combination of an e collar and positive reinforcement.
This is called balanced training, and you can find many professional dog training companies or an individual trainer who are willing to help you through balanced training for your dog.
I began to research e collar training and discovered that the remote training collar (shock collar) that I had purchased was VERY different than an e collar.
I had ZERO idea that there was a difference- but the difference in collars was MONUMENTAL.
It all started to make sense, and I knew it was right for both my dogs and for me.
What is an Electronic Collar?
An e collar is a remote training collar that does NOT use shock.
Additionally, unlike the use of a shock collar, trainers who use an e collar encourage you to use the collar CORRECTLY.
I noticed an immediate shift in training discussions around e collar dog training vs. shock collar dog training.
More on that soon, but first: WHAT IS IT AND WHY IS IT SO DIFFERENT?
WHAT IS INSIDE OF AN E COLLAR?
The e collar has a receiver and a transmitter.
The receiver is the portion of the e collar that goes on your dog’s neck, and the transmitter is the handheld device that you, the owner or trainer, will use.
Some e collars have one button while others may have multiple buttons for different stimulation types (we’ll get to that in a bit).
THE RECEIVER
The receiver has two main parts: the prongs and the contact points.
THE PRONGS
The prongs are what touch your dog’s skin and deliver the stimulation. The contact points are what make contact with your dog’s skin.
There are three different types of e collar prongs on these training collars: short, medium, and long.
SHORT PRONGS: These are best for dogs with short coats because they make direct contact with the skin.
MEDIUM PRONGS: These are best for dogs with medium-length coats because they still make direct contact with the skin but are not as likely to irritate.
LONG PRONGS: These are best for dogs with long coats because they make indirect contact from the contact points with the skin and are less likely to irritate.
ELECTRIC STIMULATION: Most importantly, the receiver delivers the electric stimulation to your dog. Stimulation is NOT the same as shock, which was in the original collars I had bought for my dogs.
The stimulation is a very low-level electrical impulse that feels similar to a static shock that you would feel if you touched something and then touched someone else.
The sensation is not painful, but it is noticeable.
A VARIETY OF LEVELS IN YOUR DOG COLLAR (1-100)
Some e collars have multiple levels of stimulation while others only have one. (You should look for remote training collars that offer 100 levels of stimulation). The level in which one dog might feel the stimulation differs from dog to dog. One dog might feel the stimulation at a level 4, whereas another dog might feel the stimulation at a level 20. This is called the working level of a dog and is one reason why it is important that your collar offers so many varying levels.
The level of stimulation that you use is dependent on your dog’s size, age, and sensitivity.
THE TRANSMITTER OTHERWISE KNOWN AS THE HANDHELD REMOTE
The transmitter is the handheld device that you will use to deliver the electric stimulation to your dog.
As I mentioned before, some transmitters have one button while others may have multiple.
The e collar technology device has a different amount of buttons, depending on which unit you purchase.
Typically- your e collar device will have a stimulation button, a noise / beep button, and a ‘vibrate’ button.
YOUR COLLAR HAS A STIMULATION BUTTON
The stimulation button is, by far, the most talked about button by owners and ethical trainers in dog training.
Stimulation (e stim) is the same exact unit found in a ‘tens’ machine at the chiropractor. In other words, it’s actually HEALTHY for your dogs neck!
Why not receive some healthy boosts to your neck WHILE training? It all made sense to me.
YOUR COLLAR HAS A VIBRATE BUTTON
The vibrate button on the transmitter is used to deliver a ‘warning’ to your dog before any stimulation is even delivered.
Hypothetically, dog owners believe that the vibrate is a feature that you can “train your dog without ever having to use the stimulation”, somewhat of a ‘warning’.
I, however, have found the vibration MUCH more aversive to getting my dog’s attention than typical stim e collar use.
Every dog’s behaviors are different, and while some dogs might thrive with the use of the vibrate feature in different situations, the vibrate causes unnecessary stress to my own dogs.
YOUR COLLAR HAS A BEEP / NOSE BUTTON
The beep / noise button on the transmitter is used to deliver a ‘warning’ to your dog before any stimulation is even delivered.
Additionally, the beep can be used to target a specific behavior in your dog. For example, if your dog understands that the beep means you want them to demonstrate the behavior of ‘sit’, then you can use the beep as a marker for that specific behavior.
The beep is also used in e collar training to ‘mark’ a desired behavior. For example, if your dog is running towards you and you want him to stop, you can press the button on the transmitter which will emit a beeping noise, prompting them to sit.
All in all, the buttons mean what YOU want them to mean.
Each behavior of your dog can be depicted with any button: as long as you have given your dog clear instructions and communication as to WHAT that sensation or noise actually means.
If you’d like the beep to mean sit, then train your dog that the beep means sit.
If you want the vibration to mean ‘watch me’, then train your dog that the vibration means ‘watch me’.
The beauty of these devices is that they are versatile and can be used for a variety of different behaviors.
It is simply up to you, as the owner and trainer, to be clear in your communication with your dog surrounding that particular behavior.
E COLLAR FITTING & PLACEMENT
When you are beginning dog training with e collars, one important step that many dog owners forget, is how to fit the collar on your dog.
Trainers will point out that this is one of the MOST important parts of using these collars.
HOW SHOULD PROPERLY FITTED E COLLARS FIT ON MY DOG’S NECK?
The answer is VERY tight!
Uncomfortably tight- in your eyes!
Your dog has hair, and A LOT of it! Remember all of that shedding? YEAH…
That’s a lot of hair.
All that hair can actually act as an insulator between the probes on the collar and your dog’s skin, making the electric stimulation much less effective.
A properly fitted e collar should be so tight that you cannot fit more than ONE FINGER underneath it. That’s it! Just one finger.
You want the probes on the e collar to be touching your dog’s skin at all times in order for the electric current to flow properly.
If you can fit more than one finger under the strap, it is too loose and needs to be adjusted.
You can also use something called comfort pads, underneath the prongs, which helps keep the collar snug and in place.
WHERE SHOULD MY DOGS COLLAR BE PLACED AROUND THEIR NECK?
A professional trainer skilled in using e collars will tell you to place the e collars directly behind your dogs ear, tightly enough that you can only fit one finger in between the strap and your dog’s neck at any point.
We’ve all seen those dogs who have the large, dangling e collar straps- and that is NOT how it should be!
Tight and snug right on the neck of your dog, behind one ear or the other of your dog- is the best place for canine stimulation to happen and where you will find the most success with getting your dog to respond.
HIRING A PROFESSIONAL TRAINER WHO WORKS WITH E COLLARS
Hiring a trainer who has experience using a remote collar, prides themselves in positive reinforcement and is eager to help you work with your dog on correcting behaviors as well as rewarding behaviors is DEFINITELY nothing to be ashamed of.
You want to be able to trust the person you are working with, and if that means finding someone who is experienced and passionate about helping dog owners- then do it!
The best part about finding great trainers in your area, is that they will not only be able to show you how to use the equipment but can also help you troubleshoot any issues you may have along the way.
A good trainer will be able to teach you how to properly fit the collar on your dog, how to effectively use the buttons on the transmitter and can give you tips and tricks for different behaviors that you may want to work on with your dog.
Remote training collars / e collars are a great tool for dog owners- when used correctly. And furthermore, training your dog with the eyes of other people, trainers included, is ALWAYS a positive.
Remember to be clear in your communication with your dog, take the time to find a trainer who can help you if needed and make sure that the collar is fitted snugly and behind your dogs ears!
WHERE TO START USING A REMOTE COLLAR AT HOME?
If you are confident that you’d like to begin using a training collar to work on getting your dog e collar trained, first of all CONGRATULATIONS!
There are some exciting things ahead for both you and your dogs.
STEP 1: WORK WITH YOUR DOG ON BASIC COMMANDS
You absolutely need to train your dogs basic commands before beginning working to get them trained on e collars.
This was one of the major mistakes that I made- and a huge pain point for me and my dogs.
Impulse control- waiting at doors/thresholds, not jumping up on people
Potty training (any animal should be potty trained before beginning higher level commands or being asked to have the ability to learn training with training collars)
Their name- Teaching your dog their name is an ABSOLUTE MUST.
You need to be able to have a clear understanding and communication with your dog before you begin using any type of electronic collar.
STEP 2: FIND YOUR DOG’S WORKING LEVEL
A ‘working level’ is the level of stimulation that your dog will respond to without hesitation.
The goal is NOT to get your dog to yelp or cry out in pain, the goal is to find a level where your dog takes notice and responds accordingly.
This may take some time and you may have to experiment with different levels before you find what works best for your dog.
A good tip is to start at a lower level than you think- it is always easier to go up in levels of stimulation than it is to come back down.
Typically, a normal canine working level is below a level 10.
Begin tapping on the stim button, at a level 1. If you notice that your dog moves any part of it’s neck / shoulder or looks in your direction- STOP TAPPING- you have found its working level.
If you do not notice any sense of them feeling it, do the same thing on level 2. Continue to increase in level until you’ve seen any indication that your pet feels the stim. That is when you have found the working level.
If at ANY time you feel like your dog is in pain- stop all training and lower the stim immediately. E collar training is NOT supposed to cause pain!
STEP 3: INTRODUCE YOUR DOG TO THE E COLLARS BY USING THEIR NAME
Like mentioned, your dog MUST have the ability to know their name.
If they do not respond to their name, back up- and begin working with them to target behavior of gaining eye contact when you say their name.
Otherwise, get ready to teach your dog what the e collar MEANS by using their ability to know and respond to their name.
First, you will want to put the e collar on your dog.
I like to do this while they are eating their kibble or a treat so that they make an association with the collar being put on = good things happening.
Once the e collar is on, you will take a few steps away from your dog and say their name in a happy voice.
When they look at you, immediately press the button on the transmitter (at their working level- the lowest possible level) so that they feel static stimulation on their neck.
Do this a few times until your dog begins to turn their head towards you when you say their name.
This routine training period should be repeated daily for about a week- as your canine buddy learns to associate their name with the e collar stim and also- best of all- with YOUR EYES.
STEP 2: BEGIN WORKING ON A LONG LEASH / LEAD WITH YOUR DOG
Using a long lead to teach your canine positive learned behaviors with a leash and electronic training collars is a huge skill.
Using a long lead, find a safe area like your backyard (away from other dogs).
Attach the long lead to your dogs e collar- making sure that there is plenty of room for your dog to walk around on the lead.
You should be able to feel the leash moving with your dog as they move.
I like to use a six-foot lead for this so that I have some room to work, but you can start with whatever length / distance you find most comfortable.
PLAYING THE ‘HOT AND COLD’ GAME
Begin holding down the continuous stim (at their working level and at the same time, call your dogs name from a distance and say ‘come’.
If your dog follows this command and immediately comes towards you, start dropping the stim level lower (going ‘colder’).
If they do NOT follow this command, begin to slowly increase the stim (going ‘hotter’) until your dog begins lowering the distance between you and them.
As soon as their body moves CLOSER in distance towards you (an act that they are beginning to follow the ‘come’ command, you should say ‘YES’ and begin lowering (colder).
Continue this pattern until your dog is coming towards you quickly, at which point you can start to decrease the length of the leash.
I like to do this training in baby steps- so if my dog is on a six-foot lead, I will lower it down to a five-foot lead and work with them there for a few days before going down to a four-foot lead, and so forth.
The goal is for your dog to be able to respond quickly on a verbal command with little to no stim needed (from you).
This will take some time and patience, but it is SO worth it in the end!
LEASH TRAINING YOUR DOG USING TRAINING COLLARS
The great thing about using e collars for leash training is that you can get your dog used to the feel of the collar around their neck as well as begin working on getting them used to wearing a leash- all while staying in the safety and comfort of your own home!
Start by putting the e collar on your dog and attaching the leash or long slip lead. This period of training works best with a long leash- here are a few of my favorites:
I like to do this while they are eating their kibble or a treat so that they make an association with the collar being put on = good things happening.
Once the e collar is on and the leash is attached, you will begin training them to walk on leash with their learned behaviors of the e collar.
Allow your Great Dane to have a loose leash- leash tension is a sign of your pet pulling, and will want to tackle that with training.
Target behavior of walking calmly next to your side by continuing to play the ‘hot and cold’ game with your dog. As your pup walks next to you, if they begin to walk in front of you, dial up/hot, as they walk back into stride next to you, dial down/cold.
This form of communication in training will let your dog know that they are doing what you want them to do- without having to use any physical corrections.
Remember, the goal is for your dog to be able to walk on a loose leash by your side with little to no stim needed from you!
STEP 3: DEVELOP A FOOD REWARD SYSTEM
Balanced training means to not only use corrections but also to reward your dog when they are doing what you want them to do.
I like to keep things simple and use kibble for rewards during training sessions, but not ALL the time. Using kibble as your ONLY means of reward has the POSSIBILITY of your dog beginning to rely on the yummy item, rather than falling back onto their obedience training.
When using treats, a bag can be a sweet way to maintain control over the leash and dog, while also keeping something yummy around your waist.
That does NOT mean that you should only reward your dog sometimes!
Rewards come in MANY different forms such as :
Treats
Kibble
Praise
Verbal commands followed by an energetic hug or excited ‘good job’
An excited pet
Simply taking a break to rest, sit and lather attention on your pup
You can (and should) use a combination of ALL these forms of rewards during your dog’s training! This will help to keep things fun and interesting for both you AND your pup!
Remember, the goal is to find what motivates YOUR dog, mix things up with every command / reward, and to make training fun!
THE PROCESS TAKES PATIENCE AND PERSISTENCE
I’ve come a LONG way in my training process with my pups.
I had to really search for what worked best for us, and that took time, patience and consistency.
But it was SO worth it in the end!
I hope this guide has helped you to learn a little bit more about e collars and how to use them during your dog’s training journey! If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to check out our e collar training guide! I love hearing from you all!
Happy Training! 🙂
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