This is a pro-prong collar on giant breed dogs story.
If you are on the fence about prong collars and want to learn more, stick around! If you hate prong collars no matter what anybody says, this post is likely not for you.
Meet Figaro, the subject of today’s deep dive into dog training, ethics, prong collars, and life with dogs that are in fact bigger and stronger than we are!
Why prong collars ROCK 101
Figaro is a Well-Trained Dog
I’m not trying to brag here, but this guy is a great dog.
He walks politely next to me on a flat collar through all sorts of distracting areas.
He checks in with me often, is gentle around people and other dogs, and can be off-leash almost anywhere that it’s safe and legal to do so.
Figaro was trained using a lot of positive reinforcement! He obtained his Canine Good Citizen and Novice Trick Dog title, and is working towards his Community Canine title now.
He is also a BIG, strong, intact male.
Dogs will be Dogs
I’m a 5’4″ strong, sturdy female.
I can move furniture, haul giant bags of dog food on my shoulders, and lift my 95 lb tripod female Dane out of the car without help. I’m far from weak.
But we failed. Figaro gave me a run for my money the other day, and I’m embarrassed.
On our walk a neighbor’s dog came out of nowhere, charging his fence line and zipping back and forth. He was barking and growling at us behind bushes and trees that rustled and shook as he moved.
Figaro LOST IT.
My sweet boy who is great on a leash, polite and friendly, literally lost it.
As a matter of fact, the ONLY thing that gave me the strength to hold onto his leash was that slow-motion picture in the back of my head of what might happen if I let go.
Figaro wasn’t trying to be a jerk. He wasn’t trying to overpower me with his flat collar, or pull me down.
At that moment, I didn’t exist. He lunged, he jumped, he bounced like Tigger. He made all kinds of noise and threw his body weight around.
His plan was to get to that fence and protect himself against what he perceived as a threat.
TRUTH: No amount of training can prepare you for moments like this and yes, even the most well-trained dogs can be caught off guard.
Things are going to happen. Dogs will come out of nowhere. Wildlife will bounce in front of you. People and things and sounds are lurking, waiting to prove to you that you still have more training to do.
What I Learned from this Mistake
I had believed for far too long that prong collars were aversive, punishing torture devices. Like many people, I fell for the negative marketing which implies that using a prong collar is a form of abuse.
But here is the thing.
A prong collar would have been the safest and most effective tool for him to be wearing at that moment. Allow me to explain.
Flat collar: with a traditional flat, martingale or choke collar not only do you have very little control, but the dog can injure its trachea. That made this lunging VERY dangerous and unsafe for both of us!
Harness: harnesses have their place in some situations and for some dogs, but it’s very easy for a large dog to pull through one and lunge straight out of your grasp. I believe that harnesses on giant breed dogs are often dangerous: if the dog does decide to lunge, the owner may not be able to recover.
Front Clip Harness: A front-clip harness may provide more control than another type, but similar to a flat collar a lunging dog may then damage itself by pulling into one. Front clip harnesses work by restricting the movement of the front shoulders and chest, and pulling a dog to the side when they lunge.
Head Collar: this is one of the most insidious, damaging, and aversive training tools available. While it would have allowed me to maintain at least some control, he likely would have also whipped his head and neck around. We all know how dangerous that can be for Great Danes!
The Best Collar for a Great Dane
Fig needed to be in a prong collar in that moment.
It can never be acceptable for a giant breed dog to lunge like that. He could have easily hurt me, himself, or anything in his path.
I’ve invested thousands of hours into his training. The fact that my well-trained polite dog did this means that it could have literally happened to anybody.
Prong collars look like stabby pokers that jab at the dog’s neck. What they look like and what they do are two different things.
Prong Collars don’t stab and poke. They take the pressure from pulling and distribute it evenly around the dog’s neck.
This makes it so the dog cannot injure itself while wearing one. It’s a simple matter of pressure on, pressure off.
The pressure is uncomfortable, but not painful. Unlike other tools, the sensation from a prong collar is a very deliberate YES and NO that dogs understand.
The dog is in control of that pressure. They can turn it off at any time.
Because prong collars are so effective, that also makes them one of the safest and most gentle options for Great Danes. Hear me out.
The prong collar quickly resolves pulling issues, thus minimizing the damage a dog can do to itself and others by continuing to lunge into collars, harnesses, and head collars.
Of course, I could just keep my dog at home in a ‘gentle’ harness and practice more so that he never does that again, but that’s not real life.
Real life is FULL of surprises. We cannot isolate our dogs as we attempt to practice responding to each one without error. It’s just not possible.
Giant breed dogs can and will throw their weight around. You are not hurting your dog when you say NO.
As a matter of fact, pairing an occasional and necessary NO with lots of YES is a truly holistic way to approach dog training and your relationship with your dog.
A prong collar is not an abusive torture device, especially when it becomes the difference between getting out in the world with your dog, and staying home because you don’t have safe and effective way to control them.
I know I learned my lesson. Figaro walks with me in a prong collar now so that we can practice NOT practicing that behavior again.
Someday I’ll trust him in his flat collar again, but until then, we’re having a great time together out and about.
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This is a heartbreaking post. I’m sitting here on a Sunday night and my newsfeed is flooded with this story about how moldy kibble killed 2 family pets.
A family chose what they thought was high-quality, nutritious dog food. As a matter of fact, they paid a premium price for it, because they wanted something to support the needs of their working dogs.
Hours later, one dog was dead. After a visit to the ER, the second dog couldn’t be saved, either.
How did this happen? Why did it happen?
I’m going to dig into the how and the why below, because I want you to protect your pet from this fate.
It’s important to note that the food looked completely normal when they fed it to their dogs.
It was only after the dogs were dead that they stirred the dog food and found the mold.
What you see above is horrifying, but the owners should not be blamed. Mold spores can be present in food even if you can’t see them!
To get started, I’m also sharing the original post from the owner of the two beautiful dogs that were lost. If you aren’t aware of this tragic story, you’ll want to start there first.
As long as the social media post on this topic is live, it will show up below:
Editor’s Note it is incredibly important to me that I share this story in honor of the two dogs that were lost. We do not blame the owners. Nobody should.
Their story should help save the lives of other dogs and we are sharing it for that purpose, not to shame the owners (as many of unfairly done).
The images below are from the original public Facebook post.
How Does Mold Get Into Dog Food?
There are three main ways that mold can get into your dog food (and potentially kill your pets, too).
Some of these avenues and the information in them may surprise you.
At this time we do not know what factors led to the deaths of these two beautiful dogs. It was likely a combination of factors, not any one single issue.
Unfortunately, these are risks we take just by owning dogs. Kibble is not inherently dangerous or unsafe! This is a rare situation.
Poor Quality Control & Food Science
There are 4 key things to look for in a dog food manufacturer. These things can help prevent formulation, food science, and control issues that lead to toxic food.
All four boxes must be checked below for a food company to be considered ethical, in my opinion:
Do they staff at least one board-certified veterinary nutritionist (DACVN), or a veterinarian with a PhD in animal nutrition?
Do they have an extensive and strict quality-control process, starting with hand-picked ingredient suppliers and strict policies for sourcing, transportation, and production?
Do they own and operate their facilities, thus having full control over the process from start to finish? Where is the food manufactured?
Do they participate in feeding trials and peer-reviewed research? Is the nutrient analysis substantiated in trials or just on paper?
Spoiler alert! I did a deep dive. The food brand that these dogs were being fed (Kinetic) could not check off a single one of those boxes, according to the information I was able to find.
“No recalls” may mean that the market share, quality control, and company standards are so low that the company just doesn’t know, or worse, doesn’t care when things go wrong.
The truth of the matter here is that there are 300-400 new dog food companies each year in the U.S. and only a handful of highly-qualified board-certified veterinary nutritionists, food scientists, and quality-control professionals to go around.
You do the math.
These are healthy, beautiful-looking dogs.
Poor Food Handling by Suppliers
Of course, it doesn’t matter how the ingredients and food were handled from manufacturing to shipped if the end supplier mishandles the food.
It could be a simple error; for example, a warehouse employee nicking a bag with a contaminated box cutter and then packing it to ship into a hot, humid area where it sits on a porch for a full day.
Or perhaps the pet food store doesn’t unload food off the back dock for hours and it sits in the heat after shipping from a company with so-so quality control protocols.
Of course, some things can go wrong from point A to point B, even when the food is made by the most diligent of manufacturers.
Choosing reliable and reputable food companies, in addition to sourcing your food from dedicated and professional retailers is key to minimizing these risks.
Poor Food Handling by Pet Owners
Another reason that mold can get into your dog’s food is improper handling at home.
One of the biggest mistakes that pet owners make is to dump their dog’s food directly into plastic or metal bins!
Here is a list of reasons why this common practice is dangerous:
If you dump new food on top of old food, the old food at the bottom of the bin may never be eaten (and will thus be festering)
Unless you are cleaning, sanitizing, and drying your bin between food bags, you risk contaminating your fresh bag of food with existing mold spores or parasites
Dog food companies put a lot of science into the bags, which are designed to keep the food fresh. Why throw that away?
Exposure to plastic may cause harmful chemicals in some plastic containers to leech into the food (especially when sitting in a warm garage, for example)
Plastic causes fats and oils to oxidize, which will expedite the process of the food going rancid
The residual and often then rancid fat and oils left inside of the plastic bin can cause all kinds of problems in new food dumped in later
In short, if you are going to use a plastic bin to store your dog food, do two things! Keep the food INSIDE of the bag it came in, and store the food in a cool, dry place.
What Food Brand Had Mold & Killed 2 Dogs?
It has become widely known that the owners of these two dogs were feeding Kinetic dog food.
Here is what we know about this company:
They promote Kinetic as a ‘working dog’ brand and spend a lot of time supporting hunting dogs, sport dogs, and police K-9s by attending events to market their food
The company does not staff a board-certified veterinary nutritionist; as a matter of fact, it’s unclear who formulates the food.
The owners may be formulating the food. Their self-given job titles include things such as ‘sales, distribution, marketing, and nutrition‘.
They have given k-9 nutrition talks but, as above, it’s unclear what (if any) legitimate credentials these guys have.
They claim that the nutrition research and formulations they’ve created are a collab between dog trainers, breeders, kennels, and ‘nutritionists’. Again, where are the credentials? Was this research scientific?
We cannot verify if Kinetic owns and operates its facilities. Chances are this food is co-packed.
We can find no peer-reviewed research or feeding trials associated with their food or the claims that they make regarding its benefits.
This company is very, very good at marketing.
We’re talking, health nut wrapped up in a multi-level marketing company kind of marketing.
Tips for Choosing Quality Dog Food
I’m a big fan of food that is backed by legitimate science and research, not marketing claims.
If you can avoid the trap of being sucked into marketing, it becomes VERY easy to pick a nutritious, high-quality, and safe food for your dog!
Marketing vs. Nutrition
Ethical pet food companies will have a full-time veterinary nutritionist or at minimum, a veterinarian with a Masters in nutrition on staff to formulate the food. If you aren’t sure, call and ask.
Keep in mind that small pet food companies don’t often (if at all) have the budget or resources to attract highly desired nutrition professionals, scientists, and quality control experts.
These companies must rely heavily on marketing to sell their food because it’s all they have.
A common practice of small manufacturers is to create a recipe on paper and then pay consultants (often marketed as a “team of nutrition professionals” to check a box indicating that the food, on paper, meets minimum requirements for keeping a dog alive.
In other words, your dog is their feeding trial.
Many common marketing terms are unregulated. These terms have no legal definition and can be used by any dog food company:
Holistic
Super-Premium
Wholesome
No Fillers
All-Natural
High Performance
Healthy
Species Appropriate
Biologically Appropriate
Of course, none of these things are ‘bad’. A holistic, wholesome, high-performance dog food sounds awesome. The problem comes with the fact that lacking a definition, those terms may be intentionally misleading.
Not to mention wild claims of longevity, or indicating that the food is anti-inflammatory or can prevent cancer.
If it’s hard to find out who is formulating your dog food and what their credentials are, where it’s manufactured, or what research has been done, ask more questions.
Look past the marketing and then choose something else.
I recommend storing your dog food in the original bag in a cool, dry place.
That could be inside of a plastic bin, as long as the food stays inside its bag.
Use bags of food up as quickly as possible, without overfeeding your dog, of course. The longer a bag is open, the more likely it is to go rancid or become toxic.
Buy smaller bags if your dog doesn’t eat them fast enough.
Grain-free options are all the rage at natural pet food stores. Is a grain-free diet for dogs healthier than something with rice, corn, oats, or wheat? Should you feed your dog grain-free? Does grain-free food resolve allergy symptoms such as itching, ear infections, and hot spots?
Feeding grain-free foods to dogs has gained significant popularity in recent years, driven by human diet trends of eliminating grains from the diet. Many pet owners are drawn to this trend, thinking it aligns with a more natural and ancestral canine diet. However, the decision to go grain-free should be made with careful consideration and an understanding of the potential implications.
In this article, we will dig into the concept of grain-free diets for dogs, exploring the reasons behind this dietary choice (including going grain-free for allergies), the pros and cons, and the essential factors to keep in mind when deciding if it’s the right choice for your pet.
Is Grain Free Dog Food Lower Carb?
Contrary to common belief, grain-free dog food is not necessarily low in carbohydrates.
While the term “grain-free” suggests the absence of grains like wheat, corn, or rice, it doesn’t guarantee a reduction in carbohydrate content. In many cases, grain-free dry dog foods replace grains (and often some of the meat, too) with alternative carbohydrate sources such as peas, lentils, or potatoes. These ingredients can be just as, if not more so, carbohydrate-rich.
(Authors note: we realize the DCM “debate” is a controversial one. We are a science-backed blog and cite resources, not propaganda on this topic).
This means that a grain-free diet might not be the solution for pet owners seeking to provide a low-carb or “keto” option for their dogs.
Not only that, but there is this misguided belief out there that grain free dog foods, in removing the grains, have more meat. This is a myth that could not be farther from the truth! Grain free dog foods have the same, or less meat content than kibbles that contain grains.
Understanding the ingredients and nutritional content of grain-free dog food, as well as how pet food formulation works, is essential to make informed choices that align with science, research, and your dog’s dietary needs.
Grain-Free Diet for Dogs 101
Grain-free dog food can come in many forms, and won’t contain common grains such as corn, oats, wheat, or rice:
Grain-free kibble
Freeze-dried raw
Grain-free canned food
Raw-coated grain-free kibble
Air-dried dog food
“Fresh” dog food
Home-cooked pet recipes
Prey-model raw
Grain-free kibble dog food diets became popular in the early 2000s. At that time, there was a lot of debate surrounding the benefits and drawbacks of grains for both animals and for people.
Canine health and dog food trends tend to closely follow human diet trends! For example, in 2022 we are seeing a huge rise in the popularity of “fresh”, “keto”, “paleo”, “vegan”, “cricket-based”, and “whole foods” dog food diets.
Oftentimes, our scientific understanding of these trends is way behind our actual use of them; which can be dangerous and devastating for a dog’s diet.
Remember when eggs and avocados were considered ‘unhealthy foods’? That’s a trend we now know was wildly incorrect and damaging. Just take a look at human diet trends and toxic diet culture in general!
Tread cautiously with trends.
What are common grains in dog food?
Common grains in dog food include:
Rice, brewers rice, brown rice
Corn
Wheat
Oats
Barley
Sorghum
Quinoa
Other “ancient grains” such as amaranth, millet, and rye
Grain-free foods will not contain those items. All kibbles require a starch of some kind to bind the ingredients together, whether the starch is grain-based (rice), or not (lentils). All dry kibbles contain carbohydrates, in other words.
It is a myth that ingredients such as corn or rice are “fillers”. This unfortunately misunderstanding is driven by profit driven social influencers, pet stores, and small food brands that make their money by generating fear and anxiety about pet food through misinformation.
Corn, often a subject of debate in pet food ingredients, is actually be a quality component in many pet food formulations. First and foremost, it is a highly digestible source of carbohydrates, which can provide a steady supply of energy for dogs and cats. It is more digestible than beef (truth!) and is a good source of essential nutrients such as protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals.
To respond to the “grain-free” trend, pet food manufacturers figured out how to replace common grains with grain-free carbohydrates such as lentils, garbanzo beans, peas, and potatoes. Many grain-free kibbles are literally loaded with these ingredients.
Unfortunately, the carbs included in grain free kibbles have much less data, research, and studies associated with them. On paper they seem to work from a ‘nutritional’ standpoint, but in practice there seems to be problems.
Biovailability and the complex interplay of nutrients in dog food make a big difference on whether or not a food is truly healthy for your pet.
Do dogs need grain in their diet?
There is a lot of conflicting information about whether or not dogs need grains in their diet at all.
If a dog is offered a whole prey animal to eat, it will rip into the meat, bone, cartilage, and organs (yes, the by-products!) and consume everything, including the contents of the stomach.
Dogs by nature are scavengers and opportunists: they can and will eat just about anything offered to them. Modern pets are FAR removed from their wild ancestors; their digestive system has actually evolved and changed to process foods more commonly seen in the human diet (grains, for example).
Grains provide energy in the form of carbohydrates, not to mention they fulfill important dietary needs such as omegas, fiber, vitamins, minerals, and amino acids.
Because kibble MUST contain some kind of starch or carbohydrate for binding, grains are a solid and nutritious choice.
Some people believe that their dog has grain or chicken allergies, however, this is rarely true.
Most of the time there are other factors at play and veterinary advice is recommend. In reality, true grain allergies in dogs are quite rare. Allergies in dogs are more commonly associated with proteins, such as those found in meat or poultry (though, chicken allergies are also a bit of a wild social media driven myth).
It’s essential to differentiate between true allergies and food sensitivities, where certain ingredients may cause gastrointestinal discomfort but are not true allergies involving the immune system. If you suspect your dog has a food allergy, it’s crucial to consult with a veterinarian to accurately diagnose the issue. While some grain-free diets may have their place for specific dogs with dietary sensitivities, it’s important to base feeding choices on individual dietary needs rather than assuming that grains are the primary culprit behind canine allergies.
It’s important to note that only a veterinarian-monitored food elimination diet can definitively diagnose food allergies in dogs. Scientific study shows that blood and saliva allergy tests are wildly inconsistent and inaccurate. Save your money.
For pets that have been scientifically diagnosed with a legitimate grain allergy, choosing a well-researched food or working with a board-certified veterinary nutritionist will be key.
I did a google search with two different search terms. Each one gave me WILDLY different results.
The first one was “Is grain-free dog food bad for dogs”. This phrase produced a slew of scientific articles and information from reliable sources, including articles and studies written by highly educated people in veterinary medicine.
Every single one stated that “grain-free kibbles can be dangerous for dogs to eat” and that dogs can digest grains without any problems at all.
So, because I like to look at science and evaluate both sides of the coin, I searched again.
The second term I tried was “Is grain an inflammatory ingredient in dog food”. This produced a bunch of inflammatory (catch my drift here?) and alarmist blog posts written by bloggers with no credentials, including ‘nutritionists’ who obtained their “certification” from online correspondence courses.
They all said grains are bad, of course. But does their unscientific opinion have merit?
I think not.
As above, grain allergies are exceptionally rare. It’s been scientifically proven that dogs are easily able to digest and obtain nutrients from grains.
This is one that confuses a LOT of dog owners! I’ve even seen self-proclaimed nutrition experts have absolutely no understanding regarding this topic.
So here it is: just because a food is labeled as ‘grain-free’ does NOT mean that it is low in carbohydrates.
Grain-free dog foods are, in theory gluten free, but they are not carb free! Gluten contamination is possible unless you choose a veterinary prescription diet.
Fact: many dog foods manufactured without grains are high in legumes, peas, beans, and potatoes; all of these things are high in carbs!
If a “nutritionist” or other “expert” is telling you that “dogs don’t need carbs, choose a holisticgrain-free dog food”, RUN far away.
I said what I said.
How Grain-Free Dog Food is Made
As you may have noticed above, I mentioned how kibbles must be manufactured with some kind of carbohydrate. This is how the the final kibbles are held together. Without it, the food would just turn to dust.
Certain diets such as air-dried and ‘fresh’ foods can be made without grain or carbohydrate sources, but these diets aren’t well-researched and may lack the full spectrum of nutrients and amino acids that pets need.
Ingredients in grain-free dog food
In grain-free kibble foods, rice, oats, wheat, or corn is replaced by peas, potatoes, garbanzo beans, lentils, and other similar plant-based proteins and carbohydrates.
Legumes, peas, and potatoes have very different amino acid and digestibility profiles than other more researched carbohydrates such as rice, corn, and oats. It’s not a cup-for-cup replacement.
Here are some examples of common inclusions in ‘fancy’, ’boutique’, grain-free or grain-inclusive dog foods:
Deboned meat. This can include things such as ‘fresh deboned chicken’, ‘roasted deboned lamb’, or ‘deboned fish’, which appeal to American dietary tastes. While these ingredients are not harmful and sound healthy, it’s important to keep in mind that dogs need bone, organ and cartilage in their diet.
Not just muscle meat, which contains only a small percentage of the actual nutrition dogs get from other parts of the animal (the ‘by-products’).
But wait, there is more!
Deboned fresh meats are 70% water. By law, companies must list ingredients by weight before extrusion.
So if you see that “fresh chicken is the first ingredient” on the label, you are likely being fooled. Especially when it comes to grain-free diets that use a lot of starchy carbs!
After extrusion, how much fresh deboned meat is really there? Around 70% less than you think.
PRO TIP: You want to see meat meals and meat by-product meals in the first ingredients. This dry, rendered product is heavy before and after extrusion, not to mention chock full of protein, vitamins, minerals, and amino acids.
What about veggies?
Pumpkin, Squash, Blueberries, etc. Ingredients like this are often considered to be nothing more than ‘fairy dust’ by board-certified veterinary nutritionists.
Like fresh meat, these ingredients are mostly water. By the time they are extruded there isn’t much left. Plus, they may displace room in the composition of the kibble for vitamins, minerals, and amino acids from better sources.
Why grain-free dog foods are not healthy
Because so many grain-free dog diets have replaced a significant amount of meat with peas, potatoes, lentils, and other pulses, the diet may be lacking in the correct balance of trace nutrients and amino acids.
These starchy ingredients contain protein and as a result can, in some ways, replace meat. The final kibble will still meet AAFCO nutrient profile minimums on paper.
Unfortunately, the pet food industry is a sketchy place, and not for the reasons that you think.
What is ingredient splitting?
Ingredient splitting is a common practice, for example!
This is when companies will take an ingredient such as peas and split it up on the ingredients list.
Peas, pea protein, pea fiber, pea flour, and pea starch are things you may notice. Or green lentils, red lentils, yellow peas, green peas.
This splitting allows manufacturers to trick you into believing the food has more meat in it than it actually does, and is a COMMON practice of boutique and grain-free dog food brands.
Some people believe that grain-free dog diets contain more meat than what is seen in grain-inclusive diets.
They believe this because of marketing, and because of the assumption that the grains taken out of the food are replaced with meat.
Oops! Grain free diets are actually quite often loaded with pulses and legumes to replace the grains, not meat.
Dogs need meat, bone, organ, tissue, fat, skin, and cartilage in their diet. Many of these things are considered ‘by-products’. By-products are great in a dog’s diet, but marketing has made them into a dirty word.
Grain-free dog foods are not, in fact, higher in meat nor are they necessarily healthier for your dog.
We believe that correctly balanced kibbles will have meat meal and meat by-product meal as a primary protein source, paired with well-researched healthy grains such as rice, corn, and oats for energy and nutrients.
Here is our list of grain-inclusive foods for large breed dogs:
This belief is backed by science coming from board-certified veterinary nutritionists and the top veterinary institutes and organizations in the Country.
Heart disease is just one proven complication of feeding a poorly formulated diet. You may have heard this from people and veterinarians who tell you to stay away from grain-free foods because of the risk of DCM!
The nutritional relationship to DCM is well documented. Many pet food manufacturers have had to adjust their formulas in the past.
For example, once veterinary nutritionists learned that cats couldn’t reliably synthesize their own taurine, an essential amino acid, it was added to food and the problem was solved.
Taurine deficiency causes heart disease in dogs and cats. However, the veterinary community does not currently see taurine deficiency as the primary cause of the current nutrition-DCM speculations.
Dog breeds genetically prone to canine dilated cardiomyopathy include Great Danes, Doberman Pinschers, Boxers, and Cocker Spaniels.
Secondary DCM can be caused by unbalanced nutrition, and as above, it is well documented.
Several board-certified veterinary cardiologists have reported an alarming increase in dogs with no known genetic predisposition to DCM showing up with the disease.
Many of these dogs diagnosed with dilated cardiomyopathy dcm presented with very few symptoms!
Dilated cardiomyopathy is often a silent killer and will take the lives of dogs who had been playing, eating and enjoying life normally just minutes before.
Adding grains or taurine does not fix this problem; as they say, you cannot supplement your way out of a bad diet!
It is believed that the consequences of feeding poorly balanced diets are grossly under-represented, and that many more dogs would have been diagnosed with heart disease had they lived long enough or had a post-mortem autopsy completed.
90% of the dogs reported with DCM, following scientific observation and diagnosis by a board certified veterinary cardiologist, were eating grain-free dog food, indicating a strong potential dietary link.
It doesn’t matter what you hear and from whom, there absolutely is a problem here. Heart disease is terrifying, and we believe that dog owners should be cautious and base their opinions here on the most up to date science.
An FDA investigation was launched, and since then the discussion has become hotbed of misinformation.
The FDA actually released a statement citing that grain-free diets may not specifically be the issue. People misinterpreted this statement as a resolution of what they believed to have been financially biased, corporate-driven data and ran with it.
This happened despite the fact that 1000’s of reports submitted by veterinarians and dog owners around the Country indicate that BEG diets (boutique, exotic, grain free) foods are causing health problems and heart failure.
Naysayers often cite that the “original studies were bonk” and that “grain free and BEG diets are safe and healthy” as a result, furthering the divide with statements that are not backed by facts or science.
That doesn’t mean there is no problem, however.
The correlation is now believed to be within dog foods where no on-staff board-certified veterinary nutritionists formulate the diet, and/or where a significant nutrient source includes peas, legumes, potatoes, beans, or pulses.
Both grain-free AND grain-inclusive diets are to blame, in other words!
Commonly implicated brands include:
Fromm
Victor
Orijen/Acana
Diamond (including Costco and Nutra-Nuggets)
Earthborn and Unrefined
4 Health
Taste of the Wild
Solid Gold
Rachel Ray
Nutrisource
Nutro
and many others
FACT: None of those brands have a qualified individual formulating, testing, and researching their diets.
Fromm, for example, has a chemical engineer creating recipes. Victor uses a guy with an online certification in dairy cattle nutrition. Diamond uses proprietary software to spit out a formula, and has the results checked off by a team of consultants.
That is where the problem ultimately lies.
Nutritional DCM is the direct result of ‘health’ food marketing and pet food shaming, which was designed to turn people away from the big-5 science-backed brands and promote the sales of poorly balanced, untested, and grossly under-researched boutique diets.
Think about this for a moment. We’ve all be scammed by the dog food industry.
Keep in mind that there is a difference between a ‘nutritionist’ and a ‘board certified veterinary nutritionist’.
The former are generally people who obtained certifications from online nutrition courses and smaller pet food manufacturers.
The later are veterinarians who obtained several years of additional study and then a board certification in small animal nutrition. Personally, I trust science and people who are highly educated.
Veterinary nutritionists recommend a grain-inclusive diet from a company that has a full-time veterinary nutritionist on staff to formulate, test, and research the diets, participate in peer-reviewed research, and prove their formulas in feeding trials.
As of this writing, only five manufacturers meet this standard.
We believe that the best food to prevent nutritional DCM based congestive heart failure is a grain-inclusive diet from an established, science-backed company. These foods have been proven to reduce and at times eliminate heart disease in dogs that had been diagnosed with nutritional DCM!
Here is our list of the best foods for giant breeds, including Great Danes.
Navigating behavior challenges with your Great Dane can feel like a big puzzle to solve! When it comes to training, our beloved dogs might seem like they have a mind of their own. Tackling Great Dane behavior problems like pulling, enthusiastic barking, and acrobatic fence-jumping can be an adventure for owners of these lovable behemoths.
But fear not! While the challenges may seem big, the rewards of overcoming them are even bigger. Let’s journey together to better understand and address the quirks that come with our colossal canine companions, turning potential problems into valuable lessons and shared laughs.
If you are having trouble with your Great Dane or Great Dane puppy, don’t worry – you are not alone!
#1 – My Great Dane Won’t Come When Called
Poor recall is one of the #1 complaints that Great Dane dog owners have about their dog’s behavior!
There are a few things that you can do to improve your dog’s recall and ensure they are a well-behaved off-leash citizen:
Use a long line or leash when first teaching your dog to come
Prevent mistakes! If your dog doesn’t come to you, they shouldn’t be off-leash
Make sure you are calling your dog to you in an excited and happy voice, and NEVER correct your dog for ignoring you.
Reward with high-value treats, praise, play, and affection
Practice in boring areas!
Recall games for Great Danes
These are some of our favorite Great Dane recall games for teaching rock-solid off-leash coming when called behavior!
The Amped Up Recall game: Have somebody hold your Great Dane by their chest or collar. While they are being held, RUN away from them and be super fun. Wave a toy around, whoop, holler, and be exciting! When you are several feet away, turn and say ‘COME!’ and then have the other person release your Great Dane. Your dog will RUN to you (proving that dogs will come to people who are worth coming to). Play this game often.
The slot machine jackpot recall game: Practice recall with high-value treats. Think of yourself like a slot machine. Sometimes, you give one treat. Sometimes you give 3 to 5 treats. Occasionally, you give a JACKPOT! The best jackpots will be a complete surprise and something even higher-value than what has been offered before.
The follow-me game: give your Great Dane a reward for looking at you. Turn your back. When your Great Dane comes to look at you, give another reward. Turn your back and walk a step. Reward again when your dog looks at you. This is a FUN game that involves you eventually being able to turn, walk farther away, zig-zag, and even hide behind things.
Your Great Dane should always WANT to come and find you!
Once your Great Danehas a rock-solid recall in low distraction areas (such as your backyard or on a long leash on a soccer field), it’s time to layer in an E-Collar so you can ditch the leash in places where doing so is safe and legal!
Using an E-Collar to Improve Recall
E-Collars are NOT a magic fix for poor recall! If your Great Dane doesn’t have a good recall in a low distraction area, do not expect an E-Collar to fix the problem.
An E-Collar can replace your long-leash, so that your Great Dane can zoomie, run, climb, swim, sniff, explore, and move naturally. There is nothing more positive than that!
Most Great Danes will benefit greatly from being allowed to exhibit these correct and species-appropriate behaviors.
Sniffing the ground on a long leash is NOT enough!
An E-Collar uses muscle stimulation that is non-aversive and works the same way that your cell phone does.
Your cell phone ringing does not hurt you, punish you, or scare you BUT it does make you take action. This is how modern E-Collars work for coming when called.
By replacing the feeling of a harness, collar, and pressure from a leash with virtual pressure, our Great Danes can be safely off-leash. This is especially true once they are trained to also ignore dogs and people.
Many Great Danes who are reactive towards dogs and people on a leash will be completely non-reactive when e-collar trained.
The truth is that leashes are restrictive and cause anxiety for many dogs.
E-Collars allow dogs to move naturally and because they are no longer ‘trapped’, they feel safe.
Another major plus about E-Collars is that they are the ONLY tool that uses no physical restraint. For giant breed dogs like Great Danes, this is an incredible benefit to their orthopedic health.
#2-How do I stop my Great Dane from Counter Surfing?
This is a hard one because it’s a natural thing for dogs to do! After all, counters are full of yummy smells and things to investigate.
The best way to stop your Great Dane dog from counter surfing is to make the counter a place they cannot access.
If this isn’t possible or practical, you’ll need to be diligent about teaching your dog that the counter is off-limits.
The easiest way to do this is to use a cue like “leave it” or “off”. As soon as your Great Dane jumps on the counter, say the cue and give them a treat for getting down.
Because counter surfing is also a very dangerous behavior (for example, if they were to get grapes or cooked chicken bones), it’s a behavior we feel very comfortable advising corrections on.
It must NEVER be acceptable for your Great Dane to steal food from the counter!
These corrections can include a sharp NO, ‘AH-AH’, clapping your hands, stomping the floor, leash pops, or even sticky tape on the counter (which sticks to their paws).
#3 – How do I stop my Great Dane from Pulling?
Leash pulling is a common and dangerous problem with Great Danes that may require professional help. Most Danes pull because doing so is fun and rewarding, and gets them where they want to go.
As your Great Dane understands this fun game, start adding distance and zig-zags.
Clip a leash to a wide, flat martingale collarand continue this game of checking in, watching, engaging, and walking next to you with rewards and praise.
Once your Great Dane is able to do this next to you in a low distraction environment, we recommend layering in a Herm Sprenger prong collar.
Teach your Great Dane that gentle pressure from the collar (which does not stab or pinch!) means to turn and engage with you. Reward this behavior with praise and rewards
Prong Collar Training
Here is a great video on how to properly introduce a prong collar to your Great Dane!
#4 – My Great Dane Keeps Digging Holes
It can be a huge problem if your Great Dane digs holes! Not only does this make a mess of your beautiful yard, but then they are dragging mud, dirt, and all the parasites that come with it into your home.
Mud and digging, in general, are actually very good for dogs! It’s natural for them to want to dig and it’s a great way for your Great Dane dog to relieve boredom, stress, and pent-up energy.
The key is to provide your Great Dane with an appropriate outlet for this behavior. If they are left alone with nothing to do, of course, they are going to take it out on your lawn! Many behavioral problems are actually the result of plain old boredom.
You can teach your Great Dane to only dig in one area of the yard by using positive reinforcement and being consistent with redirection.
If the digging absolutely must stop, you need to replace it with another form of enrichment. Off-leash exploration, puzzle toys, and scent tracking are fantastic substitutes.
#5-My Great Dane is Destroying My House
You know what they say, right? If you don’t give your Great Dane a job to do, they will give themselves a job. You will NOT like their choice of employment!
Bored and anxious Great Danes will destroy your house. Literally.
It’s not uncommon for us to hear from frantic Great Dane owners whose dog has just eaten an entire couch, destroyed drywall, or chewed through electrical wires.
The good news is that this behavior is 100% preventable with crate training, the right amount of exercise, mental stimulation, and training.
Step one requires that you prevent this behavior. Crate training 101 is a fantastic place to start!
Following that, a drastic increase in positive training and daily enrichment will make a huge difference.
Gentle exercise such as playing seek games or FitPaws
Socialize and train in a new environment: the brewery, a public park, or if your dog is confident and trained, a dog-friendly store such as Petsmart or Home Depot (call in advance to confirm)
What can I do to Stop Separation Anxiety?
Unfortunately, many Great Danes suffer from separation anxiety.
This can manifest in a number of ways, such as destructive behaviors, excessive barking or howling, pacing, panting, and more.
The key to helping your dog with separation anxiety is to make sure that they ultimately feel safe when they can’t see you.
This can mean addressing the anxiety from multiple angles, not just when you are away! Exercise, obedience, puzzles, and trick training sessions are great confidence builders for Great Danes.
You can also help build your dog’s confidence by exposing them to short periods of time away from you, and by teaching them that good things happen when you leave.
For some dogs, this may mean starting with only a 30-second gap and working up from there. For others, it may mean building up to longer periods of time by using a dog sitter or daycare.
The most important thing is to go at your dog’s pace and not to push them too hard, too fast. If you do, you will only end up making the anxiety worse.
It will be helpful to use a Kong stuffed with their favorite treats, or to buy a puzzle toy such as the Kong Wobbler.
The FURBO camera is another great way to interact with your Great Dane when you are not home, as it allows you to talk to them, see them, and give them a treat, all virtually!
You can also help your dog feel more secure by providing them with a lot of novel enrichment and training.
#6-How can I Stop my Great Dane from Jumping?
Jumping is a dangerous behavior that requires proper training from a young age, if possible. If you want your Great Dane to be a great family dog and be gentle around other dogs, the jumping must be addressed.
While I tend to be fairly positive in how I train my dogs, I will admit that I have absolutely had a moment with giant puppies that jumped.
My 5-month-old male Great Dane puppy caught me off guard one day, jumped up, and scraped my eye with his huge paw. Without even thinking I stepped into him and then shouted at him with a very loud, sharp tone.
I felt so bad after that, but it was a gut reaction. Thankfully, he’s never done it again! I can’t deny that this worked. However, it’s not the recommended approach for a number of reasons.
To correctly address this behavior, you need two pieces:
Reinforce good behavior with attention, praise, treats, and play. When working with an excitable puppy, calmness is key. It’s a great idea to have high-value treats on hand to reward your Great Dane pup.
Redirect attention away from the jumping and towards something else, such as sitting or lying down. This can be done with a cue such as ‘sit’ or ‘down’.
The second piece involves correcting the behavior. If teaching the alternate behavior isn’t enough, it’s fair to then implement a correction.
No-jump corrections might look like this, depending on the individual dog. Adult Great Danes will take more work, as they have already established a bad habit.
Turn your back and walk away (jumping = loss of attention)
Sharp leash pop, followed by reward when the Great Dane has all paws on the floor
Saying ‘uh-oh’ and removing your leashed dog to another room when they jump
Walking into the dog when they jump up
We do not recommend using physical force or shoving your dog with a knee or a hand. Not only can this be damaging, but it’s also very confusing!
Some dogs see this gesture as a form of roughhousing and will become more excited and jumpy.
Many dog owners find that working with a dog trainer helps them learn more about the timing of rewards and corrections, so that everybody can move on from it!
#7-My Great Dane Growls Over Food & Toys
Resource guarding is normal behavior that can be seen in any animal, including humans. It’s when an animal or even a puppy feels the need to protect a valuable resource, such as food, toys, or even you!
Dogs who guard resources may do so because they feel like they don’t have enough, or because they are afraid of losing what they have. It has nothing to do with dominance. It can be, however, genetic.
Resource guarding is a dangerous behavior, especially for a Great Dane!
Many cases of resource guarding are made worse by humans who unfairly fuss, punish, correct and take things from their dogs to ‘teach them who is boss’.
The best way to address resource guarding is with behavior modification and training, instead. This can be a long process, but it’s worth it to have a dog who feels confident around you and isn’t afraid of losing its things.
We recommend the book MINE by Jean Donaldson, and seek a professional trainer’s advice if you have a Great Dane that is resource guarding.
#8 – My Great Dane is Reactive
Reactivity is different than aggression. A reactive dog is one that over-stimulates easily and has a low threshold for arousal.
This can be due to genetics, environment, poor socialization, frustration, anxiety, or a combination of several factors.
Dogs who are reactive may lunge, bark, growl, snap, or bite when they feel overwhelmed. Other forms of reactivity include whining, fussing, and rolling over (often mistaken as ‘submission’).
It’s important to remember that these behaviors don’t necessarily mean that your Great Dane is aggressive and wishes to harm!
Lower arousal and frustration levels with thoughtful management, desensitize and counter-condition to trigger stimuli, provide outlets for your dog’s energy, and seek professional help if needed.
Many people believe that their Great Dane is being protective when really, their Great Dane is being reactive.
Reactive dogs can easily go over the threshold and will struggle to focus, listen, or settle. These dogs are insecure and are protecting themselves, not necessarily the home or the people.
Protective dogs, on the other hand, will alert, but can quickly become calm and confident on command, welcoming people into the home.
How do I Help my Aggressive Great Dane
Having an aggressive Great Dane dog can be frustrating and heartbreaking. It requires dedication, resources, and time that many owners just don’t have.
Many rescues cannot accept aggressive dogs because it requires them to have strict protocols, highly trained volunteers, and enhanced insurance coverage.
The different types of aggression
There are two types of aggression, passive and active.
Passive aggression is characterized by a dog who is growling, baring its teeth, or stiffening its body in order to make itself look bigger. This type of aggression is often seen in dogs who are guarding something, such as food or a toy.
Active aggression is characterized by biting or snapping. This type of aggression is dangerous and can result in injuries.
If a dog is willing to injure you or another dog, they are a liability and will require professional training to address behavioral problems and aggressive tendencies.
Great Dane aggression can be caused by a number of things, including:
Fear
Anxiety
Health problems, including thyroid disorders, UTI, pain, cancer, or otherwise, which can cause sudden aggression for no apparent reason
Painful orthopedic conditions
Genetics
Neurological disorders
Fear aggression is the most common type of aggression in Great Danes. For normally gentle dogs that become suddenly aggressive, a thorough veterinary check is warranted to rule out health problems.
Giant breeds should never display aggressive behaviors, and if they do, they are more dangerous than a small dog might be. This breed has large, powerful jaws and most Great Danes are stronger than many humans.
Contrary to popular belief, Great Danes are not supposed to be an aggressive breed. They are friendly dogs that make excellent family members.
Aggressive behavior always has an underlying root cause that must be addressed.
How to manage Great Dane aggression
Because Great Danes are such big dogs, it’s important that you manage aggression and prevent injury.
Crate training and muzzle training are important steps you can take toward keeping your Great Dane and others safe!
Do not expose your aggressive Great Dane dog to situations that trigger reactions, especially if your dog is explosive and making contact with his teeth.
Aggressive behavior is embarrassing and dangerous. This means no doggy parks, off-leash hiking, or other socialization opportunities.
You’ll need to provide plenty of structure and rules for your Great Dane so that he knows what is expected of him. This may include crate training, obedience training, and positive behavior modification.
Avoid using physical force and harsh handling on your Great Dane, which can make aggression worse. We recommend reaching out to an IABC Accredited dog trainer or a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist.
A touchy subject: behavioral euthanasia
Sometimes Great Danes just aren’t able to cope with the world, and they will respond with aggression to protect themselves.
Occasionally, tough decisions have to be made.
Behavioral euthanasia is reserved for Great Danes who experience significant and dangerous levels of aggression, reactivity, and fear that are not helped with training, behavior modification, management, and medication.
For some Great Danes and some owners, this is truly the most humane choice. It should not be taken lightly, nor should it be harshly judged. Most veterinarians will not euthanize healthy dogs.
A dog that is severely aggressive is likely suffering.
What causes Great Dane Behavior Problems?
If your Great Dane is out of control, many factors may be at play.
It rarely if ever has to do with ‘dominance’ or ‘stubborn’ behavior!
Here are some common causes of behavioral problems in Great Danes, plus information on correcting them.
Weak genetics
Temperament and behavior have a strong relationship to genetics.
If your dog’s parents were timid, snappy, unpredictable, anxious, pushy, fearful, or aggressive there is a good chance that your Great Dane will inherit some of those traits.
The final temperament and personality of a puppy is influenced by many factors, but this is perhaps the most important one.
Ideally, a Great Dane puppy should be friendly, social, and confident.
Poor socialization
Good breeders begin socialization at 3 days of age, through programs called ENS and Puppy Culture. If a breeder isn’t doing these things with their litter of Great Dane puppies, they may not be as dedicated or diligent as they should be.
Once your Great Dane puppy is home, the rest is up to you!
Poorly socialized dogs are more prone to anxiety, fearfulness, and aggression. Anxiety in Great Danes can be difficult to deal with and should be addressed as young as possible.
It’s important to start teaching and socialization on day one. Reward good behavior, confidence, and engagement with you with treats, praise, play, and fun!
Socialization should be positive and include exposure to a variety of sights, sounds, textures, experiences, things, and people.
Inadequate Enrichment & Exercise
Great Danes can have a surprising amount of energy – they were originally bred as hunting dogs, after all!
If you don’t give your Great Dane enough outlets for their energy, they may become destructive or even aggressive.
A short walk on pavement, a few toys, another dog, and a yard are rarely enough, especially for Danes that are left home all day.
We recommend that Great Danes receive plenty of off-leash time to move freely on varied terrain, in addition to basic obedience, scent work, and food puzzles to keep their mind busy.
Bad training methods and techniques
Unfortunately, bad techniques can actually cause and worsen behavior problems such as aggressive behavior, destruction, reactivity, and anxiety.
These things include:
Harsh punishment
Alpha/Dominance, including intimidation and ‘pack leader’
Forceful and punitive use of training tools of any kind
Restrictive methods that rely heavily on physical restraint, isolation, and constant micro-management
A lack of consistency and boundaries
Expecting too much
Not using enough positive reinforcement
Failure to address medical problems
When looking for a dog trainer for your Great Dane or Great Dane puppy, ask them three questions:
a. Are you licensed and insured? Do you have any certifications?
b. What do you do when my dog does something right?
c. What do you do when my dog does something wrong?
What is the Best Method for Training Great Danes?
The best method for training Great Danes is one that uses a lot of positivity and fun and is based on a strong foundation of trust, respect, and teamwork.
A thoughtful training program that includes a lot of YES with rewards paired with the occasional NO is incredibly effective.
We advocate for the use of positive reinforcement paired with modern tools such as E-Collars and prong collars.
Giant breed dogs should be diligently trained and socialized for their safety and the safety of those around them. They are never fully trained, though! Great Dane training should be ongoing, for life.
An out-of-control Great Dane dog wearing a harness or refusing to come when called is a dangerous animal.
Ideally, Great Dane puppies start training as soon as possible. But it’s never too late!
Great Danes make wonderful family pets for people who are willing to put the time into teaching, guiding, rewarding, and building a relationship with them.
We recommend working with a professional trainer, even if you think you know everything! There is always something new to learn, especially when it comes to handling large dogs.
Balanced Training vs. Positive Training
“Positive only” training relies heavily on behavioral management to prevent bad behavior, which can be frustrating to dogs and owners.
Management includes the use of physical restraint, crates, gates, and isolation from experiences, people, and dogs while a dog is learning without error. The goal with ‘positive’ or ‘force-free’ training is to never have to say ‘no’.
The ‘force-free’ method markets front-clip harnesses and head collars as ‘gentle’. We find these tools to be aversive, punishing, and potentially damaging to Great Danes orthopedic health.
We believe that modern balanced training is the most humane, fun, and positive way to train your gentle giants!
All exceptional “balanced” trainers use a lot of positive reinforcement and avoid harsh punishments, intimidation, pain, and fear. Balanced training is positive training with a more holistic approach to correcting dangerous or incorrect behaviors.
You should never see your Danes tail tucked, ears back, or lip licking during training; these are behaviors that are associated with fear, frustration, and anxiety.
Puppy fear periods can be confusing for any pet parent. A young dog usually starts off pretty confident, but as they start to learn and navigate, they can begin having puppy fear. A puppy fear period can occur in any puppy and dog owners should not fret if their puppy begins being suddenly scared.
There’s a lot of new things for puppies to experience as they grow up – new people, places, and things to smell and explore. One thing that can be quite confusing (and sometimes scary) for puppies is the fear period.
Photo credit to @BlamethedatePhoto credit to @Blamethedate
This is a time when your puppy may seem to have a bit of an attitude change – becoming more fearful or anxious than usual. In this blog post, we will discuss what puppy fear periods are, when you can expect them, and how you can help your puppy through them!
What are puppy fear periods?
Fear periods in dogs occur during different parts of a dog’s life. Puppy fear stages usually occur in puppy development in adolescent dogs who are between the ages of six and 14 months old.
There are three different types of puppy fear periods:
Neonatal: This is the first fear period and usually occurs between two and four weeks of age. At this stage, puppies are still adjusting to life outside of the womb and may be fearful of loud noises or sudden movements.
Transitional: The transitional fear period usually occurs between four and eight weeks of age. During this time, puppies are becoming more independent and may start to experience separation anxiety when away from their mother or littermates.
Juvenile: The juvenile fear period is the last stage and typically occurs between four and 14 months old. This is when puppies are going through adolescence and may be fearful of new people, animals, or experiences.
What causes puppy fear periods?
There is no one answer to this question as each puppy is different. The puppy fear stages are completely normal and sometimes have a sudden onset with sudden behavioral changes.
Many experts believe that the cause of fear periods in dogs is due to a combination of genetics and environment. For example, if a puppy’s parents were fearful of certain things, the puppy may be more likely to experience fear during their own fear periods. Contrastingly, some experts state that sometimes a puppy fear period coincides with a single scary event that can shape future behaviors in a dog.
Similarly, if a puppy is not exposed to different people, places, and experiences during their socialization period (between three and 16 weeks old), they may be more likely to experience fear during their juvenile fear period. This is sometimes called the fear imprint period.
What are the signs of a fear period?
There are a few different signs that you may notice if your puppy is going through a fear period:
Hiding or cowering when around new people, animals, or experiences
What are the most common things that puppies are afraid of?
Throughout a dog’s life fear stages can cause most puppies to have unusual or unexplained fears. Dog behavior can sometimes feel unpredictable, however pet parents can be aware of puppy fear stages before they begin in order to help their young dogs overcome their anxiety before the fear period occurs.
If your puppy is displaying any of the above signs and it is causing them distress, you should be proactive about increased positive socialization. Working hard to create positive associations with training sessions and early socialization can minimize fearful behaviors and increase positive behaviors.
Your veterinarian or a qualified trainer will be able to rule out any medical causes for the fear and may recommend a behavior modification plan or dog training classes to help your dog create positive experiences at their own pace.
Sometimes, dogs will exhibit fear one time. For example, if the vacuum cleaner falls in the kitchen and comes close to your puppy, the dog shows a startle and runs away.
This is a flight instinct and when your dog acts afraid, they are not actually demonstrating anxiety but rather a very normal reaction to having something loud and large fall in front of them.
In this instance, a completely healthy reaction from pet parents would be to walk past the puppy or dog and ignore the reaction. This teaches your dog that the loud and ‘scary’ vacuum cleaner falling in front of them actually is not a big deal.
If you, instead, quickly pick up your puppy and coddle them, you are providing positive reinforcement or positive association with their fear. In turn, this will likely increase their fearful behaviors around the vacuum cleaner in the future.
What can I do to help my puppy during a fear period?
There are many things that you can do to help your puppy during a fear stage.
Provide increased positive socialization opportunities: During this time, it is especially important to provide your puppy with increased positive socialization opportunities. This means exposing them to as many new people, places, and experiences as possible in a slow and controlled manner.
Use positive reinforcement: Reward your puppy with praise, treats, or petting when they display brave or confident behaviors around the things they are afraid of.
Avoid punishment: It is important to avoid punishing your puppy for being afraid as this will only make them more anxious and increase their fear. Practice force free behavior modification by using positive reinforcement to help your puppy learn new behaviors.
Be patient: It is important to be patient with your puppy and understand that they are going through a normal and natural process. Fear periods usually only last for a few weeks and with proper socialization, most puppies will outgrow their fears. If you have any concerns about
Make sure they have plenty of exercise: A tired puppy is a good puppy. Making sure that your puppy gets plenty of exercise will help to tire them out both mentally and physically.
Young dogs typically have two fear periods: one at around eight to ten weeks old and another at six to seven months old. The first fear period is often considered a ‘mini’ fear period and may not be as intense as the second.
The second fear period is often more pronounced and can last for several weeks. After the puppy goes through the second fear period, they will typically start to become less afraid of things and more confident in themselves.
Puppy fear periods usually only last for a few weeks but can occasionally last up to several months. Puppy owners can tackle fear behaviors by helping their dogs with confidence building tasks and socialization.
What should I do if my puppy is afraid of something?
If your puppy is afraid of something, the best thing you can do is to take advantage of the critical period with your adolescent dog and practice excellent puppy socialization.
Tips to practicing puppy socialization with an adolescent dog:
Make crate training fun: Dogs typically love their crates and see them as their own personal space, but only when puppy owners practice with positive training sessions.
Start with short car rides: A lot of dogs are afraid of car rides, so it is important to start slowly. Try taking your dog for short car rides around the block at first and gradually work up to longer car trips.
Visit different places: It is important to expose your adolescent dog to different types of places like the groomer, the vet, and different types of parks.
Enroll in a puppy class: A great way to socialize your adolescent dog is by enrolling them in a puppy class. This will help them become accustomed to being around other dogs and people.
The long-term effects of a fear period are typically not serious and most puppies will outgrow their fears with proper socialization. However, if not properly managed, a puppy’s fear can become more entrenched and turn into anxiety or phobias later in life.
Can a puppy fear stage be prevented?
Most dogs will experience some sort of puppy fear stage throughout their life. Dogs are born into a world with many new sights, sounds, and smells that can be overwhelming for them.
The best way to prevent a puppy fear stage is by socializing your puppy early on. This means exposing them to as many new people, places, and experiences as possible in a slow and controlled manner.
Puppy owners can also help their dog by never putting them in a position where they are forced to do things that the dog is uncomfortable with. To force interaction on a dog can create sudden onset of anxiety in the dog, which could have unnecesary implications later.
What age do dogs have fear periods?
Typically, a puppy might start their real, first fear period around the age of eight to ten weeks old. The second fear period usually begins around six to seven months old. The second fear period is the fear period that dog owners will typically notice more in puppy development.
However, it’s important to keep in mind that every dog is different and some might start their fear periods earlier or later than others. It all depends on the individual dog and their experiences.
Do dogs go through a second fear stage?
Puppy development is different for every dog. Typically, after about the age of 1 years old, fear periods have resided for the most part.
However, factors to consider are:
Is the dog spayed/neutered?
What was the dog’s early socialization like?
Did the dog have any traumatic experiences?
Is the dog health tested?
What are the genetics of the dog?
Can early spay or neuter hurt your dog? Check out our blog here.
These are all things that can play a role in whether or not your dog has a second fear stage.
How do I deal with my puppy’s fear phase?
A dog builds confidence every time they are able to feel successful in a situation. In a dog’s brain, when they are successful and have gone through a situation without being overwhelmed by fear, they are more likely to try again.
So, the best way to help your puppy through their fear phase is by socializing them in a slow and controlled manner. This means taking them to different places, exposing them to different people and animals, and letting them experience new things in a safe and positive environment. Using patience can help a dog overcome odd behaviors and help the dog build confidence.
TAKING BABY STEPS WITH YOUR DOG
For example, taking a dog to the veterinarian can be quite intimidating. There are scary/new hands, cold examination tables, and potentially frightening procedures. However, if the owner breaks the visit down into baby steps (i.e., going in for a minute or two to get used to the office, then coming back another day to sit on the table, etc.), it will help the puppy feel more comfortable and less overwhelmed each time they come in for vet visits.
Do puppies grow out of being scared?
Some dogs will have major anxiety issues as adults. An adult dog with a severe anxiety issue can be a real problem.
Fear periods in dogs should not last forever. Fear periods are meant to be just that, a period of time where your puppy or dog is exploring something unknown and figuring out that this ‘unknown’ is actually not scary at all.
Your dog should not have to live in fear all his life. If you notice fearful body language for an extended period of time, consider hiring a certified dog trainer to help your dog overcome their anxiety.
When you bring your puppy home is the best time to begin preventing fear periods in dogs. It is never too young to begin socializing in a safe and appropriate way.
Can a puppy go through a fear stage as old as 18 months?
A pronounced fear period can take place as old as 18 months. Fear periods are often most common during puppyhood and adolescence, but they can happen at any age. If you think your dog is going through a fear period, the best thing to do is consult with a certified dog trainer or behaviorist.
They will be able to help you assess the situation and come up with a plan to help your dogs fear.
How can I help my puppy stop being afraid of everything?
If you see fearful body language in your dog, the best thing you can do is to remain calm and avoid reacting in a way that might scare your dog even more. Dogs are very intuitive and can sense when their owners are feeling anxious or stressed. This will only amplify the fear your dog is feeling.
If you need to move your dog to a safer location, do so slowly and calmly. Avoid using forceful methods to try to get your dog to move, as this will only scare them more.
TIPS FOR HELPING YOUR DOGS OVERCOME THEIR FEARS
Use positive reinforcement to help your dog feel good about themselves in situations that scare them. This could include treats, petting, or verbal praise.
Create a safe space for your dog to retreat to if they are feeling overwhelmed. This could be a crate or a designated area in your home where they can go to relax and feel safe.
Make sure you are not inadvertently reinforcing your dog’s fear by giving them attention when they are displaying fearful behavior. This could include trying to soothe them or picking them up.
Fear periods in dogs are normal and usually nothing to worry about. The best thing you can do is to help your dog through these periods by socializing them in a slow and controlled way.
What tools can help my puppy when he is scared?
Some tools that can help your puppy when they are scared are:
A secure and comfortable crate or den that they can retreat to when they feel overwhelmed.
An interactive toy like a Kong or treat ball filled with their favorite treats to keep their mind occupied.
A calming supplement like CBD oil to help reduce their anxiety.
A bed that supports your puppy both physically and helps them feel safe.
Patience and positive reinforcement from you, their owner!
Remember, every dog is different and will cope with their fear in different ways. It’s important to be patient and understand that your puppy is going through a tough time. With a little bit of help from you, they’ll get through it in no time!
Puppy fear periods are a normal, and often necessary, part of your puppy’s development. By understanding what they are, when to expect them, and how to help your puppy through them, you can make the experience as positive and stress-free as possible for both you and your furry friend!
If you have any questions or concerns about your puppy’s fear period, don’t hesitate to reach out to a certified dog trainer or behaviorist for help.
In the meantime, check out our blog for more tips on raising a happy and healthy puppy!
Wishing you all the best during this exciting time in your puppy’s life!
This is a question that has troubled pet owners for years as many navigate nail trimming their dog’s nails.
But, the answer is yes! Dog’s nails have nerves in them. Thus, when a dog gets their nails cut, a dog owner should be aware of the anatomy of the nail and avoid cutting the part of the nail that contains the nerve endings.
DO DOGS HAVE NERVES IN THEIR NAILS?
Well, a dog has something called a ‘quick’ in its nail. When the nail is at the proper length, a dogs nails will not touch the ground. However, when the nails get too long, they will start to curve and touch the ground which can be painful for your dog. The quick is essentially the blood vessel that runs through the center of the nail.
If you were to cut into the quick, it would be painful for your dog and could start to bleed.
The quick is the area of the dog’s nails which contain the nerve endings. When trimming nails, you want to be careful not to cut into the quick as it will cause your dog pain. However, if you do accidentally cut the quick while you are getting your dog’s nails trimmed, it is not an emergency.
DO DOGS FEEL PAIN WHEN GETTING NAILS CUT?
Yes, dogs can feel pain when getting their nails cut. However, the amount of pain they feel depends on how long their nails are and if the quick gets cut during the nail trimming.
A nail trim, however, should NOT produce a negative reaction and a dog should not hurt or feel pain while getting their nails cut. Nail clipping for some dogs, creates extreme fear as they are not used to having their feet touched and they have possibly had their feet or nail trimmed too short before, which can create a fear of nail clipping.
THE REAL PAIN FOR DOGS
More so than having to cut his nails, the pain for your pet will come when you DO NOT cut their nails.
If the nails are too long, they will start to curve and touch the ground which can be painful for your dog.
If your dog has nails that are too long, it can cause so many issues with their health such as:
Arthritis
Joint problems
Infections
Nerve damage
Conformation issues in the feet
Paw issues
Paw pain
Feet pain
Fear of having their feet touched
All of these health concerns can be avoided by simply keeping your dog’s nails trimmed.
Instead of delaying nail trims, practice nail cutting by getting a good nail grinder or clipper, some high value treats, and gently touch the dog’s four paws until they feel comfortable with their trimming or clipping.
Our recommended clippers for dog nails:
WHY DO DOGS GET SCARED WHEN YOU CUT THEIR NAILS?
If your dog won’t let you file their nails, it is likely that they are afraid of having their paws touched with a clipper or trimmer.
Some dogs automatically associate a nail grinder or clipper with a negative process, as they have likely had their nails trimmed too short before. This can create a fear of nail clipping that some dogs never get over. Some dogs also may associate nail cutting with negative because many dogs have sensitive paws which they don’t like being touched. Lastly, some dogs are afraid of unique noises like that of a nail grinder.
REASONS THAT A DOG WON’T LET YOU CUT THEIR NAILS
It isn’t fun
The noise is scary
They have hurt their nails before during nail trimming
They don’t like their paws being touched
They are afraid of the clipper or trimmer
The best way to combat this is to start off slow, get your dog used to the idea of having his nails clipped by letting them sniff the clipper or grinder, and then offering treats while you sit quietly with the grooming tool.
This calm activity can help your dog’s fear dissipate and create a positive association.
HOW DO YOU CUT AN UNCOOPERATIVE DOG’S NAILS?
Nail trimming requires a lot of patience to get your dog relaxed during the process. Do not ever rush your dog into nail cutting.
Instead, try to create a positive association with nail cutting and nail trims.
HOW TO CREATE A POSITIVE ASSOCIATION WHILE NAIL TRIMMING
You can work on creating positivity with nail trimming.
Play with your dog during nail trims. Dog play is important for your dog to understand that nail clippers aren’t scary.
Provide high value treats. Touch their paws, and then reward with a treat.
Practice touching your dog’s nails with things that aren’t scary, like simple human nail files.
Start with just one toe at a time- and make sure not to expect to get all of them done.
Use desensitizing if you are using a Dremel by allowing your dog time to get used to the noise of the nail cutting tool.
HOW DO I SEDATE MY DOG TO CUT HIS NAILS?
Some dogs will need to be sedated to get their nails clipped.
Long nails are a danger to your dog, and therefore sometimes it is necessary to get your dog to a comfortable and sleepy place in order to perform healthy nail cutting.
First, try to sedate your dog at home with items such as :
A Thundershirt- This can help to calm your dog’s anxiety.
Pheromone diffusers- These can help to create a calming environment for your dog.
Calming supplements- There are many supplements on the market that can help to sedate your dog such as CBD, Rescue Remedy, etc.
Use Benadryl or prescription items from your Veterinarian
If these items don’t work, you will need to speak with your veterinarian about fully sedating your dog to help their nail stay short.
Nail cutting should not hurt your dog. The nail itself contains no nerve endings, so your dog will not feel pain when you cut their nails.
However, if you cut the quick of the nail- which is the pink part containing blood vessels and nerve endings- it will hurt your dog. The quick of the nail grows as the nail does, so it is important to only trim a small amount at
IS IT OKAY FOR MY DOG TO BITE THEIR OWN NAILS OFF?
Some dogs will start to bite their own nails or paws.
Typically, when a pet is biting their own nails, they are doing one of a few things:
Trying to trim their own nails down because they think they are too long
Attempting a process of calming themselves down (they might feel nervous or anxious), and sometimes it can calm them down to do something like bite at their nails or paws
Suffering from allergies or another issue that is bothering their paws
Just simply developed a habit of biting their own nails
If your dog is biting their own nails, you should evaluate whether your dog:
Needs a nail trimming
Has itchy paws due to skin inflammation or allergies
Is feeling uncomfortable or anxious
Has developed a habit that needs broken
WHY IS MY DOG TRYING TO PULL OUT HIS OWN NAIL?
If you think your dog is working at biting / pulling out their own nail, they may be experiencing some pain in their nail or paws.
There are several things that could be the cause of your dog’s pain, such as:
Allergies- If your dog is allergic to something, it could be causing them to lick or chew at their paws until they bleed.
Injuries- A cut, broken nail, or any other sort of injury can cause a dog to lick or chew at the area until it bleeds.
Nerve damage- If your pup has diabetes, they may experience nerve damage which can cause them to feel pain in their paws and nails.
The nails are too long and need a trimming or clipping.
Remember, that a dog or pup with nails that are too long will begin to have pain in their toes and feet. A dogs nails being too long can cause a knee injury, back pain, and their feet to be misaligned due to their toenails curling into their paws. All the nails of your dog should stay off the ground at all times. If you can hear the nails of your puppy or dog on the floor while they walk, ‘clicking’, their nails are too long and it is time to get the clippers out!
HOW LONG CAN DOGS GO WITHOUT CUTTING NAILS?
Every dog and pup is different and can wait a different amount of time between clipping.
However, as a rule of thumb, you should trim your dog every week.
If they are having a hard time with the frequency of this process, try to trim one paw per day. Once they get better with this paw, move to doing the back paws and then the front paws. Work so that their nails stay short.
Finding the right clippers and treats as well as having patience and remaining calm will help your dog know that getting their nails clipped is not a negative.
Every dog responds differently to different clippers. As a dog owner, it is important to try clipping with different clippers to see what type your pup responds best too.
There are two types of nail clippers: guillotine style and scissors style.
DIAGRAM OF NAILS THAT ARE WAY TOO LONG, A LITTLE BIT TOO LONG, AND NICELY TRIMMED
GUILLOTINE STYLE CLIPPERS
Guillotine style clippers have a circular cutting area that goes over the nail. The nail is then inserted into the cutting area and cut with a quick movement.
SCISSOR STYLE CLIPPERS
Scissors style clippers have two blades that come together to cut the nail. These type of clippers take a little longer to use, but some dogs respond better to them.
To find out what type of clipper your dog likes best, try both types and see which they respond better too. You can also ask your groomer or veterinarian.
THE BEST NAIL CLIPPERS FOR YOUR DOG
We have put together a list of the best dog nail clipper selections that might work for your dog. Each clipper has pros and cons.
The Millers Forge Nail Trimmers are known to be one of the best pair of clippers to trim your dog and their nails. They can work for a small dog but also work very well for a big dog. The blade is very sharp and can cut through the nails with ease.
Pros:
Very sharp blades Can be used on small and large dogs
Cons:
Some people find them difficult to use
Dremel Nail Grooming Tool
The Dremel Nail Grooming Tool is a great option if you are looking for an electric nail clipper that you can not only file the tip of your dog’s nails, but slowly get the quick to reside.
If your dog is afraid of the sound of this groomer, you will need to introduce it slowly and remain calm.
Pros:
You can use it to file your dog’s nails It slowly gets the quick to reside
Your dog requires regular nail trimmings if his nails touch the ground when he walks.
You will know that your dog’s nails are too long if you can hear them clicking on the floor when they walk. Additionally, their toenails may curl under and begin to grow into their paw pads, which is extremely painful.
If you are not certain if your dog needs their nails clipped or not, we always say to air on the side of pulling that clipper out and getting those treats ready and getting a good nail grooming in. It never hurts to go too short, but it does hurt to stay too long.
Giant breed dog toys can be hard to find! One minute you order a ‘giant size toy ball’, and the next it shows up the size of a ping pong ball. What just happened?! You thought you were ordering a durable dog toy, when in reality you just bought a choking hazard.
If you’re the proud owner of a giant breed dog, you know that they require a lot of exercise and stimulation. Toys are a great way to keep your pooch entertained and out of trouble.
But with such a big personality, it can be tough to find the right toy for them. That’s why we’ve put together this list of the best options for giant breed dogs!
What are the biggest giant breed dog toys?
Dog toys are hard enough to find in the first place. But big dog toys that are designed for big dogs are even harder to find!
We put together a few of the best big dog toys, rope toys, tennis balls and more for your large breed dog.
THE BIGGEST LARGE BREED DOG ROPE TOYS:
This chew toy is perfect for big dogs who love a sturdy toy that is made for large dogs.
The size of this rope was definitely designed for a large dog in mind. If your dog’s favorite toys include ropes and their favorite games include tug of war, be sure to check out this great toy for giant breeds:
THE WOBBLE WAG INTERACTIVE TOY FOR GIANT BREEDS OR LARGE DOGS
If your big dog loves interactive games but you can’t seem to find one their own size, this is the toy for you!
This giant breed dog toy is a great way to keep your pooch entertained and mentally stimulated. The Wobble Wag Giggle Ball features an internal maze that will keep your dog’s attention while they try to figure out how to get the ball to make noise.
It’s also durable and matches your pup’s play style AND size! Pet parents have reported that their dog LOVES this toy which is made from a durable nylon.
KONG TOYS FLYING DISK FOR GIANT BREEDS
This dog toy will serve not only to play fetch easily for larger dogs, but it is made from industrial strength rubber, keeping it protected from any aggressive chewer.
Larger breeds have larger mouths and with that comes more biting and even more drool. This disk is great for easy cleaning and dogs love to chase after it too.
What is the best chew toy for big dogs?
Superchewer (from Barkbox) makes a monthly subscription just for extra large dogs or hard chewers with strong jaws.
Power chewers are no joke! Smaller dogs can manage with the regular ‘Bark Box’ subscription, but extra large dogs, dogs weighing about 70 lbs or above, or dogs who just love to chew and destroy their toys should opt for the Super Chewer subscription.
Not only are they durable, but they are absolutely adorable and they occasionally send plush toys, squeaky toys, or treats all to keep your big pup busy. These are excellent for aggressive chewers and all of the toys are made from non toxic materials.
Bark Box offers Super Chewer monthly themed boxes delivered to your door with adorable toys and best of all- they are made for SUPER CHEWERS! Click here to check them out.
It has a unique shape that dogs love to chew on, making it one of the best toys for a large dog.
If you have a hard time getting your big dog to let you brush their teeth, try sticking some dental sticks inside of this toy- you’ll get their teeth clean all while they play!
What is the best toy for a large dog?
Each big dog has a different personality and loves to play with different types of toys. But, we’ve categorized toys into some of the many different, great toys and we’re going to give you the best of each category.
The categories we’re ranking are: The best rubber ball, the best tennis balls, the best plush toys, and the best dog chews.
THE BEST RUBBER BALL FOR BIG DOGS
Chuck-it is one of the best toys for large dogs. It has a durable rubber material and we consider it an ultra ball for a big dog.
Make sure to get the ‘Chuck it’ chucker that goes along with it if your big dog loves to run.
Large dogs hardly ever get to find something that is suitable for their own size. That is one reason pet owners love giant tennis balls.
These tennis balls are AWESOME for gentle giants who love to run and chase balls. Any big dog will get so excited at the thought of a tennis ball that is actually made for large breeds!
We love this octopus, squeaky toy for large breeds.
Not only does it have a unique shape that is intriguing for large dogs, but it also is durable for aggressive chewers.
If you have a big dog, always be sure to monitor them when they are playing with a plush toy. The natural cotton inside of any plush toy can be very dangerous for any dog, even if it is nontoxic.
Large dogs and giant breed dogs require lots of stimulation, exercise and engagement.
If you are having a busy day and don’t have the time to take your big dog outside for quite as long, it is helpful to have engagement toys on hand to keep them busy and happy.
TREAT DISPENSING PUZZLES
Some toys for large dogs dispense treats when your big dog presses a button.
Pet owners (and dog trainers) love these toys, because it can help to keep your gentle giant engaged and help them work hard mentally.
This one requires your dog to press a button before the treat will be dispensed. Large breed dogs are NOT always couch potatoes. By providing dog toys that help to stimulate your dog, they will be more of a gentle giant and less of a giant pain in the butt!
FEED YOUR DOG WITH A DOG TOY MADE FOR LARGE BREED DOGS
Some of the best big dog toys serve multiple purposes: having fun AND feeding your dog!
For dog’s who love brain games, providing a tough dog toy that not only allows them to work hard for their meal, but also engages their brain, is a win/win.
Food puzzles do just that. They are usually choking hazard free, but if you have aggressive chewers it is best to stay and monitor the dog toy as your dog uses it.
Check them out here:
What are the best outdoor toys for dogs?
From tug of war to chew toys, dog owners love it when their dogs play outside. It keeps the mess out of the kitchen and tires your doggo out!
But, what are the best toys for big puppers to play with outside?
Dog owners agree that there are some top contestants.
The Kong Extreme Dog Toy (found here) is one of the best big dog toys. Not only are Kong products able to be used as a dog chew toy (indestructible!) but they can serve as a fetch toy or war toy, depending on what kind of dog you have!
Dog owners will agree that if you are looking for big dog toys, the Kong extreme dog toy is one chew toy that you should invest in.
Shop here:
How do I keep my dog entertained outside?
Chew toys are not the only way that you can keep your dog entertained outside.
Did you know that sniffing is one of the best ways to tire your dog out?
Dogs have 220 million smell receptors in their noses, which is 40 times more than what humans have.
This means that dogs can smell up to one trillion different smells! When your dog is outside, they are constantly sniffing and trying to identify all of the different scents around them.
This uses a lot of energy and can tire your pup out quickly.
So, the next time you are looking for ways to keep your big dog entertained outside, try taking them on a walk or hike instead of just letting them in the backyard.
You may be surprised at how tired they become from all of the sniffing!
How do you keep a dog entertained in a small area?
If your dog is getting tired of their toys and you’re looking for ways to tire them out, try the ‘grass scavenger hunt’ game.
Just simply take your dog outside with their kibble, and throw their kibble into the grass. Make sure to scatter it all over the grass.
SIDENOTE: Make sure that there are no toxic pesticides in the grass prior to this activity. Dirt/etc are all nontoxic and it will be fine if your dog eats a little bit of grass and dirt, however the same is not true with pesticides!
Once you and your dog have scattered the kibble, simply let your dog ‘hunt’ for the food!
This activity will let your dog use their natural scavenging instincts, and will likely tire them out quickly.
SNUFFLE MAT LARGE DOG TOY FOR STIMULATION
Another way to keep your dog entertained in a small area is by using a ‘snuffle mat’.
A snuffle mat is basically a mat with fabric ‘strings’ attached to it. You can put your dog’s kibble/treats inside of these dog toys to help the dog have to work and engage their brain in order to find the food.
To find a snuffle mat or dog toys similar, click here:
Sometimes, dog toys are meant to be played with outside!
Dog owners need some space and even more so, dogs need to spend time outside getting some fresh air.
A good fetch toy is a must for dog owners who have the luxury of having a nice yard.
So, what are the best dog toys for spending time outside?
DOG TOYS TO GET YOUR BIG DOG RUNNING
The Chuckit! Ball Launcher (found here) is a great toy for dogs who love to fetch. This toy makes it easy for you to throw the ball far without having to put any extra effort in, and dogs love it!
This is a great way to keep your dog entertained while also getting some exercise.
CHEW TOYS FOR DOG’S TEETH
The Benebone dog chew toy is good for dog’s teeth because it helps to clean their teeth and massage their gums.
This dog toy is made out of durable nylon and has a ‘bone’ shape that dogs love. It’s also infused with bacon flavor to make it extra enticing for your pup!
Not all dog’s love the same large dog toy, tug of war, or playing fetch.
There are other toys available for dogs who are on the go or love to dig.
If you have a digger, sometimes it is best to set up a station or area that your dog can go to when they want to dig.
You can put some of their favorite toys in this spot, or even just bury their toy in the sand/dirt so that they have to work a little bit harder to get it out.
This will help to simulate their natural digging instincts while also giving them something to do that they won’t get in trouble for.
If your dog is destroying their toys, it may be a good idea to get them some tougher/more durable toys that will last longer. Or, you can try to engage their brain more by hiding their favorite toy around the house or yard so that they have to ‘hunt’ for it.
You can also try to work on some training with your dog so that they have something else to focus their energy on.
All dogs are different, so you may have to experiment a bit to find what works best for your pup! If all else fails, there’s always the option of exercise! Exercise usually works better than any dog toy at wearing your pup out.
HOW TO STOP MY DOG FROM DESTROYING A TOY
There are a few things that you can do to try and help your dog from destroying their toys.
First, try and get them some durable toys that are made specifically for dogs who like to destroy things. Kong makes a good line of these types of dog toys. Check out some of them here:
Second, try to rotate their toys so that they don’t get bored with the same toy. This will help to keep their interest in the toys and they are less likely to destroy something that they are still interested in.
And lastly, make sure that you give them plenty of chew toys and bones to help satisfy their need to chew!
IS IT POSSIBLE TO FIND A DOG TOY THAT IS MADE FOR A LARGE DOG?
Although most brands make dog toys that are smaller and not suitable for large dogs, it is definitely possible to find a dog toy that your big pup will love.
We hope that you have gotten some suggestions in this blog post on the best dog toys for large dogs. If you have any suggestions, please feel free to leave them in the comments below!
Learning how to use home remedies for arthritic dogs can be one of the best things you can do for your pet. Arthritis is a common condition in dogs, and it can be painful and debilitating. But with the right home remedies, you can help your dog feel better and ease his pain.
There are a number of home remedies for arthritic dogs that you can try that can help with joint pain associated with dog arthritis.
Do home remedies for arthritic dogs actually work?
Do you have an arthritic dog? If so, you know just how painful and debilitating the condition can be. Dogs with arthritis often have trouble getting around, climbing stairs, and playing fetch. Fortunately, there are a number of home remedies that can help ease your dog’s pain and improve his mobility.
How do I know if my dog has arthritis?
The most common signs of arthritis in dogs are:
Limping or lameness
Difficulty rising from a lying down position
Decreased activity level
Reluctance to jump, run or climb into the car
Stiffness or acting ‘sore’
Dogs have a keen ability to mask pain, so it is important to be aware of any changes in your dog’s activity level or mobility. If you notice any of the above signs, make an appointment with your veterinarian. They will be able to confirm whether or not your dog has arthritis and recommend a treatment plan.
There is no cure for arthritis, but there are a number of treatments that can help ease your dog’s pain.
What home remedies can I give my dog for arthritis?
Pain relief and pain management is something that pet parents always want to work on with their dog’s joints. If your dog has arthritis pain, there are natural remedies that can help provide pain relief at home.
YOUR DOG’S DIET
One of the most important things to help decrease pain and treat arthritis is a healthy diet.
A diet that is rich in omega-three fatty acids can help to decrease inflammation and pain. Foods like salmon, flaxseed, and pumpkin seeds are all great sources of omega-three fatty acids. You can also give your dog a fish oil supplement. Just be sure to talk to your vet before giving your dog any supplements.
Raw dog food has been known to provide aminos, nutrients and vitamins to ease pain associated with joint disease.
We recommend finding a balanced raw dog food like Raws Paws. Use code HELLODANES10 for 10% off your entire purchase.
Older dogs tend not to move as often or as much as younger, more spry dogs. Joint inflammation happens more in dog’s muscles when there is less movement, less blood flow, and less muscle.
In order to relieve pain, increase blood flow and help with chronic pain, work on stretches and movement as often as you can.
It is always better to move frequently and for small periods of time with large breed dogs struggling with joint pain, rather than once a day for a long time. A healthy joint needs blood flow to help with chronic pain and keep the area healthy.
WHAT BED IS BEST FOR A BIG DOG WITH ARTHRITIS?
The Big Barker bed is clinically proven to help support dog’s joints. Dogs should not ever rest their legs/joints/shoulders/elbows on the hard surface for extended periods of time.
This can create joint pain and issues like Hygromas.
Big dogs, especially, need a supportive sleeping surface.
We love the Big Barker bed for any dog predisposed to arthritis or joint problems.
Just like people, dogs need exercise to maintain their health, even if they have arthritis. Exercise is important for all dogs, but especially those with arthritis because it helps increase blood flow to the joints and muscles. It also helps maintain muscle mass and flexibility.
In order to reduce pain, you should always monitor your dog’s body weight. Aging dogs will have a slowing metabolism.
An overweight dog will have severe pain and pressure on their affected joints.
Relieving pain could be as easy as keeping your dog at a healthy weight. Finding a weight management plan is easy, but sticking with it to keep your dog at a healthy weight is not always easy. Choose a healthy diet and limit your dog’s food to the necessary amount.
Your dog’s health is in nobody’s control but yours.
Between a proper diet, acupuncture treatment, underwater treadmill, gentle massages, anti inflammatory drugs, herbal remedies, pet parents are flooded with ways to treat joint pain for their dog’s arthritis.
There is not one single best remedy to treat joint pain.
However, the best part is that many natural remedies are free or VERY affordable, which means that pet owners can try them out until they find what works for their dogs arthritis.
FREE OF COST NATURAL REMEDIES FOR DOG’S JOINTS:
Doing physical therapy at home
Managing their dog’s diet and weight
Choosing their dog’s food wisely
Providing massage therapy after a long day
Taking their dog for short, frequent walks on a variety of surfaces
Making homemade bone broth
Taking their dog swimming
Experiment with your dog’s joints and see what works to provide the best pain relief.
There are endless possibilities when it comes to treating your dog’s arthritis at home. With a little bit of creativity, you can come up with a plan that works for you and your dog. Just be sure to talk to your vet first before trying any new treatments.
What is the best thing to give an older dog for arthritis?
If you are trying to help increase joint function in a senior dog, the best thing to give them is pain medications in conjunction with any other natural remedy that your dog might take well to.
There are many different types of herbs and supplements on the market that have anti inflammatory properties, so it is important to talk to your veterinarian about which one would be best for your dog. However, for a senior dog, sometimes they need traditional veterinary medicine to help the pain.
Some joint supplements contain glucosamine and chondroitin, which can help to lubricate the joints and decrease developing arthritis.
Our favorites are here:
What natural supplement can I give my dog for arthritis?
Traditional Chinese medicine offers a variety of joint health options.
With traditional herbal medications, you will need to speak with a holistic veterinarian. There are cervical powders that can increase joint health and help joint mobility.
What can I give my dog for joint problems?
Great Dane looking back over his shoulder outdoors at the park in the fall.
If your dog is struggling with joint mobility, consider the following options:
Fish oil: This is a popular supplement for people and dogs. It can help to reduce inflammation in the body and improve joint health.
Glucosamine and chondroitin: These supplements are often used together to improve joint health. They can help to lubricate the joints and decrease developing arthritis.
Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM): This is a sulfur-containing compound that can help to reduce inflammation and pain.
CBD oil: This is a popular natural remedy for many different conditions, including joint pain. It can help to reduce inflammation and provide relief from pain.
Turmeric: This spice is known for its anti-inflammatory properties. It can be given to dogs in supplement form or added to their food.
Dog stairs: Dog’s bones bare up to 6x the weight of their body when the dog lands from an upward position, jumping downward. Include options for your dog’s treatment plan that help them not have to jump downward out of the car or off of beds/couches.
Rugs/Runners: Slippery floors are detrimental to dog arthritis pain.
There are many different options available when it comes to giving your dog joint supplements. Speak with your veterinarian about which one would be best for your dog based on their individual needs.
What diet can I give my dog for arthritis?
For dog arthritis pain relief, you should look for a diet that is going to improve joint mobility.
Nutrients that have been proven in dog’s meals to help dog arthritis pain:
Omegas: These are found in fish oil and can help to reduce inflammation in the body.
Glucosamine: This is a compound that can help to lubricate the joints and decrease developing arthritis.
Chondroitin: This is a compound that can help to lubricate the joints and decrease developing arthritis.
Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM): This is a sulfur-containing compound that can help to reduce inflammation and pain.
CBD oil: This is a popular natural remedy for many different conditions, including joint pain. It can help to reduce inflammation and provide relief from pain.
Turmeric: This spice is known for its anti-inflammatory properties.
Golden Paste: Golden paste is a combination of turmeric, black pepper, and coconut oil. It can be given to dogs in supplement form or added to their food.
Raw Foods: Raw foods contain enzymes that can help to reduce inflammation.
Vegetables and Greens: These are a great source of antioxidants and vitamins that can help to reduce inflammation.
Supplements: There are many different types of supplements on the market that have anti inflammatory properties, so it is important to talk to your veterinarian about which one would be best for your dog.
Dogs with arthritis pain should also be on a diet that helps them maintain a healthy weight.
Should you walk a dog with arthritis?
Many dog owners will notice that as their dog ages they begin to experience pain. In turn, they often LOWER the amount of quality exercise their dog receives.
However, this practice is actually counterintuitive because exercise is an excellent way to combat the effects of arthritis.
The benefits of exercise for a dog with arthritis include:
Weight management
Joint lubrication
Strengthening muscles around joints
Increased blood circulation and decreased inflammation.
So, yes – you should continue to walk your dog, even if they have canine arthritis! Dog arthritis is a common issue, and can be managed with remedies such as physical therapy, human massage therapy, and pain relief supplements and medications. Exercise is an important part of any dog arthritis treatment plan.
Arthritis in dogs is a common condition that can lead to pain and joint deterioration. While there is no cure for arthritis, there are ways to manage the pain and slow the progression of the disease. With proper management, dogs with arthritis can live long and happy lives.
What home remedy can I give my dog for arthritis pain?
One of the best things you can do for arthritis in dogs is weight management. If you see your dog develop arthritis or joint pain, it is crucial to eliminate any excessive weight that they may be carrying.
THE IMPORTANCE OF WEIGHT MANAGEMENT IN DOGS WHO DEVELOP ARTHRITIS
Overweight dogs are more likely to develop arthritis and other joint problems. Excess weight puts additional stress on the joints, which leads to pain and inflammation.
Not only does weight management help to prevent arthritis, but it can also help to relieve pain in dogs who already have the condition.
There are many different ways to help your dog lose weight, including:
Reducing the amount of food you feed them
Increasing the amount of exercise they get
Feeding them a weight-loss dog food
Adding supplements to their diet that help to boost metabolism or suppress appetite.
Feeding them the RIGHT amount of food and not giving excessive treats
Figure out what their ideal weight is so that you know what your goal is
Monitor all things that they eat, even if it’s just a treat or snack
Feed more vegetables
If you are unsure about how to best manage your dog’s weight, talk to your veterinarian. They can help!
What can I do for my dog for a natural pain reliever?
Natural remedies are in abundance to work to treat dog arthritis. Although dog arthritis is a prevalent problem, there are things you can do for your dog to help them not feel as much pain.
Laser therapy, acupuncture and other at-home treatment methods are all helpful.
Read more about laser therapy here.
Now, there are even laser therapy machines that can be used at home to help your pup feel their best.
If you are feeling as if your pup is in pain, do not think that you have to let them live that way forever. Talk to your veterinarian and find a pain management plan that works for you both!
How to cut black dog nails is a big problem! anybody with a dog who has black nails knows that getting nails trimmed is hard to begin with, let alone if the nails are black.
Do you have a dog with black nails? If so, you know that their nails can be a challenge to cut. They are black, so they are hard to see, and they tend to curl under, making them difficult to cut properly. In this blog post, we will discuss how to cut your black dog’s nails without hurting them. We will also provide tips on how to make the process easier for both you and your pet!
HOW TO CUT BLACK DOG NAILS
Trimming dogs nails can be a hard job to complete. Dog’s nails grow quickly and if not trimmed often, can pose health issues.
With white nails or clear nails, owners find the task easier as they don’t worry that they will accidentally cut the quick. However, with trimming black nails, it gets harder to safely trim, as the quick on a black dog is harder to identify.
Trimming black dog’s nails does not need to be impossible, however. With the proper tools and some patience, you can trim your black dog’s nails without harming them.
DOG’S NAILS AND THE QUICK
If you look closely at your pup’s nails, you can find something called the ‘quick’. The quick is the part of the nail that contains blood vessels and nerves.
You want to avoid cutting the quick as it will cause your dog pain and bleeding. When cutting black nails, it is harder to see where the quick begins. This is why extra care needs to be taken when trimming these types of nails. However, if you accidentally trim the dog’s quick, just know that accidents happen and it will not cause tremendous pain.
DIAGRAM OF NAILS THAT ARE WAY TOO LONG, A LITTLE BIT TOO LONG, AND NICELY TRIMMED
WHERE IS THE QUICK ON A DOG’S BLACK NAILS
Since it is harder to spot the quick on a dog with a black nail, you will want to become familiar with its location before attempting to cut it.
The quick is located in the center of the nail. It is a pinkish or tan colored area that extends from the bottom of the nail up about halfway.
When working on a dog’s black nails, you will also want to look closely at the difference in textures. Inside the nail you will see the actual nail, and you will see something a bit more of a ‘chalky’ texture. This is the area you will want to avoid as it is where the quick begins.
HOW TO TRIM A DOG’S BLACK NAILS
Now that you know where the quick is located, you can begin trimming your dog’s black nails. You will want to use a nail trimmer specifically designed for dogs. These can be found at most pet stores or on Amazon. We will link some of our favorites below.
When trimming, you will want to make sure that you only take a small amount off at a time. This is because it is harder to see the quick on black nails, and you don’t want to accidentally cut it.
You will also want to be extra careful when cutting the nails that are close to the quick. These nails can be more difficult to trim, so take your time and be patient.
After you have finished trimming your dog’s black nails, you will want to give them a treat! This will help them associate nail trims with something positive and make future trims easier.
SHOULD YOU USE STANDARD CLIPPERS FOR TRIMMING YOUR DOG’S BLACK NAILS?
Standard trimmers or clippers are a great option for your canine companion. Every dog is different and has a different level of comfort when it comes to nail care.
We recommend starting with standard trimmers and then moving up to a grinder if your dog is resistant to having their nails trimmed. A grinder will make the process quicker, but some dogs do not like the sound or vibration.
As a pet parent, you will also have a different level of comfort with each tool. Some dog owners prefer to use a dremel, as it feels more comfortable removing a tiny bit a a time, than having to know where to stop cutting to avoid the quick.
SHOULD YOU USE A DREMEL OR FILER FOR DOGS NAILS?
The Dremel power tool is an option for dog nail grooming. Dog groomers sometimes use this tool to avoid clipping the quick / nerve endings, and get the nail short.
See how your dog reacts to getting their nails done with the Dremel. If they are a bit nervous at first, that is completely okay. Dog nails is not something that can be perfected overnight. Like any new task, trimming your dog’s nails will need to be done gradually over time.
If you would like to use a Dremel on your pup’s nails, we have listed our favorite product below.
TRIMMING YOUR DOG’S NAILS
Some dogs are very hesitant or nervous to get their nails trimmed. Trimming black nails adds an even bigger challenge, as it is more difficult to see the quick.
Here are a few tips on how to make trimming your dog’s nails a positive experience:
Start by getting your dog used to you handling their paws. This can be done by gently massaging their paw pads and between their toes. Try to gently pressure their toes or nails daily so that they get used to their feet being touched.
Once your dog is okay with you handling their feet, you can start trimming with some safe clippers, a little bit at a time. It is important to go slowly and not try to do too much at once.
Be sure to give your dog lots of dog treats and praise during the process. This will help them associate getting their nails trimmed with something positive.
If you are unable to safely trim your black dog nails due to your dog resisting, take a step back. Nail cutting can take time to practice. Start with just one nail, and then gradually increase over time.
The quick on a black dog is difficult to see, but the texture does look different. If you accidentally cut the quick, it will bleed.
If this happens, do not panic. Apply gentle pressure to the nail with a clean cloth or bandage to stop the bleeding. Once the bleeding has stopped, apply a styptic powder or corn starch or baking soda to the area to help clot the blood.
Syptic powder is helpful for dog nails because it comes in a small tube and can be easily applied to the nail. It is important to only apply a small amount, as too much can cause pain for your dog.
If you do not have styptic powder on hand, corn starch can be used as a temporary measure until you are able to get some. (Which clippers to avoid)
THE BEST CLIPPERS FOR DOG NAILS
Dog nail trimming is a personal experience. Like human nails, every dog nail will have a different level of sensitivity to dog nail trimmers.
However, when using the correct dog nail trimmers, it can help a black dog or any dog have the most positive experience possible. The right nail clippers (reviewed here) can be the difference between a great experience when trimming black dog nails, and a negative one.
THE TYPES OF DOG NAIL CLIPPERS
There are two types of nail trimmers: guillotine clippers and scissors type clippers. (READ MORE HERE) Guillotine clippers have a circular blade that goes around the nail, while scissors type have two blades that come together like normal scissors. (Our favorites reviewed here)
We recommend the following dog nail clippers for trimming black dog nails:
THE BEST DOG TREATS FOR A GREAT EXPERIENCE TRIMMING BLACK DOG NAILS
Giving your dog a positive experience when nail clipping can be hard, but most dogs LOVE treats. During nail trimming, try to give rewards between each time you touch or trim your dog’s nail. This practice will help your canine friend understand that getting their nails trimmed is not a bad thing, but something they should look forward to.
Here are some of our favorite dog treats for the best experience when trimming black dog nails:
NAIL TRIMMING: THE IMPORTANCE OF NOT HAVING OVERGROWN NAILS
Long nails can cause a lot of problems for dogs. Not only can they be uncomfortable, but they can also lead to serious health issues. Overgrown nails can split and crack, which can be extremely painful for your dog.
If you allow your dog’s nails to grow too long, it can also cause joint pain and mobility problems. Long nails can also get caught on things, which can lead to ripped nails. In extreme cases, overgrown nails can cause a deformed foot or toe. This is because the weight of the nail pulls on the toe, causing it to bend out of shape. If you think your dog’s nails are getting too long, make an appointment with your veterinarian, vet tech or groomer as soon as possible.
Trimming black dog nails can be a difficult task, but it is important to make sure you do not hurt your dog in the process. With the right tools and treats, you can trim your black dog’s nails without causing them any pain. Working to get the nail quick shorter is a process that requires patience, but if you take your time, you can do it!
If you have any questions about trimming black dog nails, please feel free to contact us. We are always happy to help!
There is a lot of misinformation out there about Great Danes and chicken. Some people seem to think that Great Danes are susceptible to chicken intolerances. So what is the truth? Are Great Danes allergic to chicken?
Let’s put this to rest, once and for all. We’re covering the Great Dane dog food allergy debate today with a heavy dose of controversial information, paired with some real veterinary science!
In this blog post, we will take a look at the truth about dog food allergies, and we will also provide some information about what foods are safe and healthy for Great Danes to eat!
Are Great Danes Allergic to Chicken
The quick answer is no.
Despite what you may have heard, Great Danes are not often allergic or intolerant to chicken. A real poultry allergy is actually incredibly rare!
In fact, chicken is a common and well-researched ingredient in many dog food formulas, and it is generally considered to be a safe and healthy option for most dogs.
Among the list of common food allergens, chicken is not actually a prime suspect.
Many pet parents have diagnosed their dog at home with chicken allergies based on anecdotal evidence, speculation, and information they heard from other dog owners.
They believe their Great Dane has a food allergy based on this alone!
Many will then change their dog’s diet without recognizing that there are many other factors at play.
Social media groups have perpetuated the myth that Great Danes are sensitive to chicken!
It’s not that so many dogs are intolerant or allergic to chicken, it’s that so many dogs have been subjected to assumptions and misunderstandings about allergies.
Anytime a dog is itching or has a loose stool, people immediately jump to the food. Because most dog foods contain chicken in some form, it takes the blame.
Managing a dog’s food allergies can appear particularly daunting to people who believe, based on poor health, social media, marketing, and questionable allergy tests (more on this below), that their Great Dane is allergic to chicken, beef, oats, rice, and barley, lentils, corn, or otherwise!
Here are some common reasons why a dog may appear to have a chicken allergy:
The dog has not often been exposed to chicken before and is suddenly introduced to a new food that happens to contain it. This sudden change in diet can cause an upset stomach or diarrhea, which is often mistaken for an allergic reaction to chicken.
The dog is being fed poorly balanced food and is suffering from nutritional imbalances that cause dry coats, itching, and chronic loose stools.
The owner is adding a lot of toppers and/or switching foods often, trying to “find something that works” and resolve allergy symptoms, destroying gut health in the process
The dog is suffering from environmental allergens that cause itchy skin, ear infections, goopy eyes, and other skin issues.
Medical causes for chronic loose stools or skin problems can also include:
Parasites
Mites
Mange
Cushing’s
Addison’s
Poor gut health
None of these have anything to do with chicken and yet, time and time again, chicken in dog food is what takes the blame!
To summarize, most dogs with ‘chicken allergies’ are actually suffering from nutritional imbalances, poor gut health, medical problems, or environmental allergies.
How are chicken allergies diagnosed in dogs?
The only way to definitively diagnose a chicken food allergy is through food trials using an elimination diet and allergy testing, both of which should be done under the care of a veterinarian.
A food trial involves switching your dog to a new diet that does not contain any chicken or other common allergens for at least 12 weeks. This means avoiding all treats, toppers, and counter surfing which may skew the results of the testing.
Participating in a food trial requires dedication and attention to detail.
Hydrolyzed protein diets are often used for food trials because they contain proteins that have been broken down into such small pieces that they are unlikely to cause an allergic reaction.
If the dog’s symptoms improve on the new diet, then it is likely that they were caused by a food allergy. It could have been chicken OR another ingredient in their old food, and additional tests are warranted.
Food trial elimination diets are a lot of work, but they are the gold standard for diagnosing food allergies!
Allergy testing involves a blood test or taking a saliva sample from your dog and sending it to a laboratory that will test for antibodies to common allergens, including chicken.
These allergy tests can often be done at home or through your veterinarian.
However, most blood and saliva allergy tests are a waste of money as they are wildly inaccurate in dogs! So much so that some dogs will receive different test results from the same sample.
A more accurate and scientific option looks for reactions to common allergens by introducing them to the sub-dermal layer of your dog’s skin.
This is helpful when ruling out environmental allergies, which are MUCH more common than food allergies.
This is called an intradermal allergy test and, while it is more accurate than blood or saliva tests, it still isn’t perfect.
These tests can be painful for your dog and may be expensive, so they are not usually recommended as the first line of testing.
The best way to diagnose a chicken allergy is through a comprehensive plan that includes food trials and allergy testing, all of which should be done under the care of a veterinarian.
Not by diagnosing your dog at home.
If your dog has allergy symptoms or symptoms that make you suspicious of food intolerance, it’s important to work with your veterinarian.
Try to recognize that there may be much more to the story than a simple intolerance of chicken.
The Truth about Chicken in Dog Food
Chicken is one of the most common ingredients in dog food, and for good reason!
It’s an excellent source of protein that is easily digestible for most dogs, especially when presented as chicken meal or chicken by-product meal.
In fact, chicken is often used as the main protein source in many hypoallergenic diets because it is so unlikely to cause an allergic reaction.
Have you ever seen people give their sick dogs chicken and rice? There is a reason for this practice (even though it’s now considered dated advice). Chicken is a gentle, quality form of protein.
The fact that so many people believe that chicken allergies are common is a direct result of social media, speculation, and anecdotal evidence.
When one person claims that their dog’s chronic loose stools or itching firmed up by switching to a food that didn’t contain chicken, people eat it up.
However, nine times out of ten the dog had been switched to a more appropriate diet, or one that had a better fiber content or didn’t contain something else the dog was actually intolerant of, and chicken had literally nothing to do with it.
A veterinary-prescribed elimination diet is the only way to definitively find food allergies.
Many dogs that have been diagnosed at home with a chicken allergy are actually allergic to things in the environment!
Their immune system may be struggling as a result of too much food switching or because of genetics and environmental factors.
Switching foods often as a means to ‘diagnose the problem’ and resolve allergy symptoms can actually cause things to be worse.
Some of the most common causes of adverse reactions such as itchy skin and goopy eyes are, you guessed it, good old pollen, grass, weeds, and dander in your home.
When this happens, food intolerance is often blamed! The truth is that these dogs need support to help their gut and digestive system heal.
Symptoms of allergies in dogs
If you are concerned about your dog’s overall health and believe they may be suffering from environmental or food allergies, here is a list of common symptoms:
Severe allergic reactions including difficulty breathing, hives, and swelling
Skin rashes and redness
Digestive issues including loose stools and diarrhea
Goopy eyes
Chewing on paws
Ear infections
Secondary skin infections such as hotspots that often result from chewing, licking, rubbing, and redness
Turning off essential oil and scented diffusers, scent warmers, and plug-ins
Reducing the use of irritating cleansers such as bleach, scented laundry detergents, or carpet sprinkles which can irritate skin, eyes, and paws
Rinsing the dog off daily using a damp towel to wipe dander and allergens from the face, paws, and body
Occasional baths using a gentle itch-relief shampoo. Don’t bathe your dog too much, as it can dry the skin out and make it more susceptible to irritation
Seeing the vet to rule out mites, fleas, mange, parasites, and other common skin irritants
Apoquel and prescription foods for dogs with serious, verified allergies
Many people whose dogs are sensitive and suffering from itching and chronic loose stools will turn to grain-free diets.
This is one of the worst choices that can be made.
How grain-free dog foods are made
All kibble dog foods require starch of some kind to bind the meat and other ingredients together. This is why you often see things such as brewers’ rice, brown rice, or oatmeal in dog food.
Grain-free dog foods replace those ingredients with other starchy foods such as potatoes, peas, or lentils. These items sound healthy to the consumer, and also contain protein.
As a result, they become an easy way for dog food companies to reduce their reliance on real meat to meet AAFCO nutrition minimums.
Many grain-free kibbles are nothing more than meat-flavored legumes. This is true even if you see “meat as the 1st ingredient”, because most ‘fresh’ or ‘deboned meats’ are 70% water.
Fresh meat will weigh a lot at first, but once it is turned into kibble there isn’t much left.
Dogs need meat, bone, organ, and cartilage in their diet, which they cannot get from a grain-free diet that is formulated with fresh muscle meat and peas or lentils.
As a result of nutritional imbalance, many dogs are needlessly suffering from an enlarged heart, digestive upset, low energy, and other health problems.
Are you noticing a trend here, yet? These health problems are often blamed on ‘chicken’.
Certain amino acids, proteins, and nutrients will be missing in poorly formulated diets.
This is why we recommend feeding a grain-inclusive foodwith meat meals and meat by-product meals making up the bulk of the finished kibble.
Read on…
Grain-free diets and DCM
Grain-free and other poorly-formulated food brands have been implicated, on repeat, for causing DCM (enlarged heart) and sudden death in otherwise healthy dogs.
Many of these dogs’ conditions are reversed through a diet change.
The FDA has released multiple warnings about the connection between certain diets and DCM.
They have not, however, been able to pinpoint a specific ingredient, brand, or formulation that is causing this condition. Doing so will take years of research.
The DCM – Food link is thought to be a combination of factors such as high legume content and poorly formulated foods from companies with no board-certified veterinary nutritionist on staff.
Nutritional DCM has been seen in dogs being fed both grain-free and grain-inclusive diets, so it stands to reason that this is a formulation problem more than anything else.
Dogs need organ meats, bone, fat, and cartilage tissue in their diet.
Despite this, a lot of expensive “natural” food companies will choose fresh meat (such as ‘roasted lamb’ or ‘deboned chicken’) for their product because it makes the label seem more appealing to dog owners who are spending their money.
Nutritional DCM is essentially the result of serious marketing problems in dog food.
If a food company is trying to appeal to your human taste, instead of what your Great Dane actually needs, you need to ask more questions.
The best food for a Great Dane is going to be a large or giant breed formula that is well-researched, backed by peer-reviewed science, and formulated by a board-certified veterinary nutritionist.
Rendered meat meals (such as beef meal or chicken by-product meal) were shown to reduce the risk of bloat!
This nutrient-dense rendered meat ingredient is biologically appropriate and exactly what you want to see in a Great Dane’s diet. Meal meal of some kind should be in the first ingredients.
We also like to see balanced calcium and phosphorus ratios.
What is the best kibble with no chicken?
If you do have a Great Dane that is suffering from allergies, the best kibble with no chicken is going to be Pro Plan Large Breed Sensitive Skin & Stomach Salmon Flavor.
When choosing food for Great Dane puppies under 24 months, choose from our puppy list.
