The modern E-Collar is the only tool on the market that allows your dog complete freedom of movement without physical restraint. This is great for joint health and enrichment. With proper training, it is used for communication, not punishment. Learn more about E-Collars with our growing collection of topics below.
E-collars are often seen as a controversial dog training tool, and I’ve realized that it’s largely because people don’t understand them. There are a lot of misconceptions about dog training methods, and this blog post aims to clear up the distinct difference between shock collars and e-collars! Today I’m writing about 5 dog E-Collar training benefits that all dog owners should know about.
So grab your favorite treat pouch, a long leash, and you’re happy dog to embark on this journey with us!
My Journey to Dog E-Collar Training
Once upon a time, I staunchly adhered to the “Force Free” approach to dog training, advocating solely for positive reinforcement methods. The mere thought of employing an electric collar on my beloved canines was unthinkable, and I admittedly cast judgment on those who did.
My perception of E-Collars was clouded by the misconception that they were instruments of punishment, inflicting shocks and discomfort on dogs simply for behaving naturally.
However, I gradually realized this was a narrow view influenced by common misconceptions. While it’s true that some individuals misuse cheap shock collars, subjecting dogs to unnecessary punishment, an entirely different realm of modern E-Collar training methods prioritizes freedom, enjoyment, and effective communication for dogs.
My perspective shifted dramatically when confronted with owning a fence-jumping Great Dane.
While my Dane’s sibling, who underwent e-collar training, reveled in off-leash freedom, displaying happiness, confidence, and responsiveness, my dog was frustrated being stuck on a long leash in his yard.
Witnessing this stark contrast between the two siblings compelled me to reconsider my stance and explore the potential benefits of modern E-Collar training methods.
When I opened my perspective to it, our whole world changed!
#1 – Ditch the Long Leash
The most powerful benefit of E-Collar training is that you and your pet can eliminate the obstructive, annoying, and potentially dangerous long leash.
Of course, using a leash in areas where being off-leash violates your local ordinances and laws is important.
The E-Collar should be the tool of choice for places where being off-leash could be done legally and safely. Because a physical leash does not restrain them, nothing obstructs their movement.
Long leashes, while seemingly providing freedom for dogs, can pose various risks and dangers if not used cautiously.
Firstly, long leashes increase the risk of entanglement, where the dog may become tangled around objects or even people, leading to potential injury or accidents.
The extended length of the leash can diminish the owner’s control over the dog, especially in situations requiring quick intervention or recall, potentially leading to dangerous situations or the inability to prevent conflicts with other dogs or people.
While long leashes have their place, they are NOT a replacement for training a solid recall.
Furthermore, long leashes can inadvertently encourage undesirable behaviors, such as pulling or bolting, as the dog may perceive the extended length as a license for unrestrained behavior.
Advocates for the “force-free” dog training method will rely heavily on long leashes as a solution for dogs that will run away, even after years of positive-only training. This is where E-Collars should enter the conversation.
#2 – Freedom to Explore
There are many places to explore where your pet could be safely off-leash if they are E-Collar trained! Imagine trekking through a field, down a hiking path, or camping with your dog safely nearby, responsive to you, and free to explore without physical restraint.
With modern E-Collar training, dogs can learn to ignore and avoid distractions, including other dogs, wildlife, bikes, and people. They come when called 100% of the time.
Even your front yard could be an incredible place for your pet to be off-leash if only you had a gentle, effective, and positive communication method.
Off-leash time fosters natural behaviors, such as running, sniffing, and exploring, which are vital for a dog’s physical and mental well-being. It strengthens the bond between owner and dog as they navigate their surroundings, fostering trust and communication.
Enter the modern E-Collar!
#3 – Precise Communication
An e-collar facilitates precise communication between the owner and the dog through its ability to deliver immediate and specific feedback, even from a distance.
It’s important to understand that this feedback doesn’t have to be harsh or unfair! Modern E-Collars use stimulation, not shock, to create a tactile sensation that can be used positively.
The long leash provides tactile feedback to the dog, too. E-Collars replace that sensation with a different one that doesn’t require physical restraint.
Unlike traditional training methods where timing and distance can be challenging to control, e-collars allow owners to deliver corrections or reinforcements with pinpoint accuracy, ensuring that the dog associates the feedback directly with their behavior.
The remote control feature of e-collars enables owners to adjust the intensity of the stimulation or deliver other forms of feedback at the exact moment when the behavior occurs, eliminating any confusion or delay in communication.
This precision in timing and delivery ensures that the dog receives consistent and clear signals, enhancing their understanding of desired behaviors and expediting the training process.
#4 – More Gentle Than a “Gentle Leader”
Gentle Leader head collars are advertised as a gentle solution for pet owners seeking to curb pulling and other leash-related nuisances. Despite this portrayal, these training tools are anything but gentle.
They exert continuous pressure on the dog’s face and eyes, potentially causing discomfort or distress. Additionally, if the dog lunges or pulls, the design of the Gentle Leader can forcibly redirect its head to the side, potentially causing discomfort or injury.
These inherent issues highlight the significant drawbacks of using Gentle Leader head collars.
Interestingly, advocates for such tools often oppose e-collars due to the misconception that they are solely used to administer shocks and intimidate dogs, further illustrating the complexity of the debate surrounding training methodologies.
When employed appropriately, modern e-collars prove remarkably gentle in their approach.
The tactile sensation they deliver is often imperceptible to most humans until it reaches levels far beyond what the average dog requires to respond positively.
It’s crucial to distinguish between shock collar and e-collar training—they are not synonymous methodologies.
#5 – The Dog Makes Their Own Choices
E-collar training empowers dogs to make their own choices by providing them with clear boundaries and consequences for their actions. Through consistent and well-timed feedback delivered via the e-collar, dogs learn to associate their behaviors with specific outcomes.
This allows them to understand the consequences of their actions and make informed decisions accordingly. It gives them control of their situation, which long leashes cannot do.
For example, if a dog learns that ignoring a recall command results in pressure from the e-collar, they may respond because they know that doing so makes the pressure go away.
The sensation generated by the e-collar is not painful or shocking to dogs; rather, it can be likened to the annoyance of the reminder sound your car emits when the seatbelt remains unbuckled. Just as that gentle pressure prompts you to buckle up, the collar’s sensation serves as a gentle reminder or prompt for the dog to heed a command or adjust their behavior.
Much like the car reminder, it doesn’t startle, harm, or hurt the dog; rather, it encourages them to respond appropriately without causing distress.
By allowing dogs to experience the direct consequences of their choices, e-collar training encourages them to make choices that lead to positive outcomes and reinforce desired behaviors.
When implemented correctly, modern E-Collar training is empowering and freeing for dogs. It’s that simple.
What Are the Best E-Collars for Dogs?
I recommend only two brands.
Do not buy a cheap e-collar from Amazon! Stick to name brands and work with a trainer to learn how to use them. Larry Krohn on YouTube is a phenomenal resource for training tricks!
Mini-Educator
This basic system is perfect for most pet owners, especially those new to E-Collar off-leash training!
At Hello Danes, we are HUGE believers in teaching Great Danes how to come when called. This is an important skill that is necessary for their safety and our sanity! Recall is the ability to command a dog to return promptly upon hearing its name or a specific cue. If you are ready to teach recall to a stubborn Great Dane in your life, this is where it’s at.
Between the two of us, we have 5 Great Danes that regularly get together to play…off-leash. We can ask them to calmly wait while others walk by. They can noodle around and explore the forest or the water, and we know they will come when we ask them to.
Our dogs are not special or smarter or less stubborn than any other Great Dane! But they are well trained, and we are here to help you achieve the same.
Why is Recall Important for Great Danes?
A reliable recall skill not only ensures the safety of the dog and those around it but also fosters a deeper connection between the owner and their Great Dane.
Here are some great reasons to train your dog to come when called, no matter what!
Safety: One of the primary reasons for training a dog to come when called is to ensure their safety. Being able to call your dog back in potentially dangerous situations, such as traffic or around other animals, can prevent accidents and injuries.
Off-Leash Freedom: A well-trained recall allows dogs to enjoy off-leash activities, providing them with more freedom during walks, playtime, and in secure, designated areas.
Emergency Situations: In emergencies, a reliable recall can be a lifesaver. Whether it’s a sudden threat or a need to evacuate, being able to call your dog quickly and reliably is crucial.
Social Interaction: A dog that comes when called is generally more socially adaptable. This is important for interactions with other dogs, people, and in various environments where you want your dog to be well-behaved and responsive.
Compliance with Regulations: In many places, there are leash laws that mandate dogs to be under control in public spaces. A strong recall allows you to comply with these regulations, avoiding potential fines and ensuring a positive experience for others.
Building Trust: Teaching your dog to come when called strengthens the bond between you and your pet. Trust is the foundation of a healthy relationship, and a reliable recall demonstrates your dog’s trust in your guidance.
Ease of Veterinary Care: A dog that comes when called makes veterinary visits and routine care much easier. This cooperative behavior reduces stress for both the dog and the owner during medical examinations or treatments.
Preventing Unwanted Behavior: A quick recall is an effective tool for preventing or interrupting undesirable behaviors, such as digging, chewing, or chasing after wildlife. It allows you to redirect your dog’s attention and reinforce positive behaviors.
Enhanced Training Opportunities: Dogs that respond well to recall open up additional training opportunities. Whether it’s participating in agility courses, advanced obedience training, or simply enjoying more varied activities, a reliable recall is a prerequisite.
Peace of Mind: Knowing that you can call your dog back in any situation provides peace of mind for dog owners. It allows for a more enjoyable and stress-free experience when spending time with your furry companion in various environments.
To put it simply, teaching your stubborn Great Dane to come when called is a valuable and necessary process. It’s worth the time you put into it!
5 Things You Need to Teach Coming When Called
We recommend the following items in your toolkit:
Martingale collar.These are escape-proof, so your pet cannot make a mistake
Long biothane leash. These give your pet a sense of freedom so you can safely practice coming when called
Step 1: Build the Recall Foundation with Positive Reinforcement
The first step in teaching a stubborn dog to recall is establishing a solid foundation built on positive reinforcement.
Begin in a controlled environment with minimal distractions. Use your dog’s name or a specific recall cue, followed by a treat or praise when they come to you. Repeat this process!
“Fido, COME!” then offer a small treat. Do this randomly, all day long. Make it fun. Never lure your dog by showing them the treat! Always hide it until they respond to your recall cue.
For some dogs, you may have to start with them being only a foot away from you. That’s ok!
Consistency is key—reward every successful recall promptly. Positive reinforcement creates an association between coming when called and positive outcomes, making it more likely that your dog will repeat the behavior willingly.
Don’t make this mistake when training your stubborn dog to come:
Never, EVER scold your dog when they come to you! If your dog has a habit of blowing you off when you recall them, don’t punish them for it when you finally catch them.
If you find yourself correcting your pet and letting them know how unhappy you are that they weren’t listening, you are teaching the dog that coming back to you sucks. Be better than this.
Ready to get serious? Here are our recommended items for training stubborn dogs to recall!
Martingale collar.These are escape-proof, so your pet cannot make a mistake
Long biothane leash. These give your pet a sense of freedom so you can safely practice coming when called
As your dog becomes more comfortable with basic recall in your home and around your house, gradually introduce distractions to mimic real-life scenarios.
Start with the basics and increase the difficulty over time. Use your long leash and treats to start exploring new environments and bigger distances!
Some examples might include:
Asking your dog to come to you from 5 feet away in a new location such as your front yard
Visiting a quiet park and practicing recall there
Going on a hike and asking your dog to recall to you from a short distance away
Never ask your pet to recall if you aren’t positive they will comply.
If you are unsure that your pet will respond, you’re asking too much for their current education level. It’s not that they are stubborn, it’s that you just haven’t built enough value yet around recalling in higher distraction environments. That’s ok, keep working on it!
Fun Games that Teach Recall
Coming to you must be fun and rewarding! You must be more interesting and more engaging than any distraction in the environment. Here are some fun games that teach recall, to help build drive and enthusiasm in your stubborn dog!
Use Toys and Play
Tug-of-war, fetch, or incorporating favorite toys can make the training process fun for your dog. When your dog comes, instead of a treat immediately chuck a ball or a tug at them and play!
Game #1 – Hide and Seek
Introducing a game of hide and seek into your dog’s training routine can be a playful and effective way to cultivate enthusiastic recall. Tuck yourself behind a wall or door and encourage your pet to find you. When they do, shower them with praise and treats.
As you progress, extend the hiding locations and increase the difficulty, encouraging your dog’s natural instincts to search and find. Hide and seek not only strengthens the recall behavior but also adds an element of joy to the training, fostering a strong connection between you and your canine companion.
Game #2 – Hold Them Back
For this game, you need a friend to hold your dog and prevent them from coming to you.
While they hold your pet back, you RUN away. Use a squeaking toy to make sounds, wave your arms, act silly, and roll on the ground. Have FUN!
Your dog will be ANTSY to get to you. Take advantage of this and say “Fido, COME!”. Your friend can release your dog on this cue, and they will bolt to you. Reward this behavior!
Step 3: Modern E-Collar Training for Teaching Recall
At some point, you’ll be ready to ditch the long leash. But is that truly the safest and most responsible thing to do?
Let’s dig into what I call the replacement for the long leash.
This final recall trick is how we safely and confidently can have 5 Great Danes off leash!
All leashes and collars provide tactile feedback to your pet. This feedback is a communication to them. E-collars work the same way (we’re not talking about cheap shock collars here. Those are different). Gentle, tactile sensations in the form of muscle stimulation can be used to effectively replace the sensation of leash tension from getting to the end of a long leash.
E-Collar training can start once the dog has a solid foundation of recall. This means that you’ve followed the steps above, your dog knows what COME means, and can recall to you from short distances among reasonable distractions.
I will cover purchasing the right E-collar below. Let’s start with how to train with an E-collar first!
Martingale collar.These are escape-proof, so your pet cannot make a mistake
Long biothane leash. These give your pet a sense of freedom so you can safely practice coming when called
Larry Krohn is a dog trainer known for his positive reinforcement-based approach, including e-collar training. Keep in mind that using an e-collar requires careful consideration and should be approached with a commitment to ethical and humane training practices. Below is a step-by-step guide based on a positive reinforcement approach inspired by Larry Krohn’s methods:
Step 1: Introduce the E-Collar as a Neutral Object Allow your dog to become familiar with the e-collar as a neutral object. Let them sniff and inspect it while associating this experience with positive reinforcement, such as treats or playtime. This helps create a positive association with seeing and wearing the e-collar.
Step 2: Find your Dog’s Working Level To find the working level, start by placing the e-collar on your dog and selecting the lowest intensity setting. Observe your dog’s reaction, looking for subtle signs like a twitch of the ear or a change in expression. Gradually increase the intensity until you notice a noticeable response, such as a slight head movement or acknowledgment of the collar. The working level is the lowest setting where you see a clear but mild reaction. It’s essential to conduct this process in a calm environment, free from distractions, and always prioritize your dog’s comfort and well-being.
Step 3: Gradual Introduction of Low-Level Stimulation Once your dog is comfortable with the collar’s sensation at the lowest level they notice, start pairing the sensation with treats. Most dogs learn very quickly that the sensation = treats. This sensation can ultimately replace the word “COME”!
Step 4: Practice Recall in Controlled Environments Initiate recall training in controlled environments with minimal distractions. Use the collar’s stimulation feature when giving the recall command, rewarding your dog for a prompt and positive response. Apply stimulation, say COME, and immediately remove the stimulation when your dog turns to run towards you. Gradually increase the level of distraction as your dog becomes more proficient.
Step 5: Gradual Exposure to Different Environments Expand recall training to different environments, exposing your dog to varying levels of distractions. This helps generalize the recall behavior across diverse settings. Ensure the e-collar is used as a tool to reinforce positive behaviors rather than as a punishment.
Step 6: Monitor and Adjust as Needed Continuously observe your dog’s reactions and adjust the e-collar settings accordingly. If your dog shows signs of stress or discomfort, reassess the training approach, and seek professional guidance if necessary.
Step 7: Utilize Continuous and Escalating Stimulation as Needed to Communicate from Afar Once your dog understands that stimulation = come to you, you can utilize slightly higher levels of stimulation and increasing pressure to reinforce the behavior in high distraction areas. For example, if your dog is chasing a squirrel or about to run into the road, you can quickly implement a higher level of communication from the collar.
Step 8: Seek Professional Guidance if Needed If you’re unsure about any aspect of e-collar training or if you encounter challenges, consider seeking guidance from a professional dog trainer experienced in positive reinforcement methods with e-collar use.
Remember, the goal is to create a positive association between the e-collar and desired behaviors, ensuring a reliable recall without causing stress or fear for your dog.
When it comes to training stubborn dogs, selecting the right e-collar can make a significant difference in the training experience. We never, ever recommend purchasing cheap shock collars!
The best e-collars for stubborn dogs are those that offer adjustable stimulation levels, ensuring a tailored approach to the individual dog’s sensitivity. Models with a wide range of settings provide flexibility, allowing trainers to find the ideal intensity that effectively communicates without causing distress.
Additionally, e-collars with features like vibration or tone options offer alternatives to stimulation, providing a more versatile training experience.
Reputable brands like SportDOG, Garmin, and E-Collar Technologies are often recommended for their reliability, durability, and commitment to ethical training practices.
Our favorite brands and models are listed below:
Martingale collar.These are escape-proof, so your pet cannot make a mistake
Long biothane leash. These give your pet a sense of freedom so you can safely practice coming when called
What I put on my dog’s collar isn’t just a style statement; it’s a full-on toolkit for their safety, ID, training, and even location tracking. Stick around as I spill the tea on what’s hanging around my pups’ necks and why it’s a game-changer.
What I Put On My Dog’s Collar Priority #1: Safety
Safety is the most important thing for our dogs, so it is important to me that I keep my dogs safe with the use of their collar.
What you put on your dog’s collar should be a matter of safety
Safety matters!!!
E-Collar training keeps my dogs safe, so I use an e-collar as their ‘primary’ collar
When it comes to keeping my pups out of trouble, e-collar training is the unsung hero. It’s not just about behavior; it’s a safety net. The seamless integration of e-collar features ensures that my dogs not only learn the ropes but stay out of harm’s way. These e-collar safety features are a game-changer in responsible pet parenting, providing a balance between training and protection.
While going on a standard leash walk, my dogs will wear their regular leash collar as well as their ‘decked out’ e collar. The leash is attached to their regular collar. Never attach a leash to an e collar.
My dogs cannot be safe unless I know where they are! Therefore, I use GPS (Apple Tag) as a digital guardian
Enter the GPS revolution with the Apple AirTag – my digital guardian for those unpredictable adventures. With GPS tracking for pets, I can breathe easy knowing that even if my psycho dogs decide to embark on an impromptu adventure, I can swiftly locate them. This technology isn’t just a convenience; it’s a peace of mind for any dog parent who’s had a moment of panic when their pup went off the grid.
See more later on which air-tag holders I use and which I do NOT recommend using.
Keeping identification on your dog can keep them safe in the long run
Identification is a cornerstone of safety, and my dog’s collar is a walking ID card. With multiple contact numbers on the tags, engraved details, and crucial medical information, it’s like a fail-safe system. Should my adventurous pup find themselves in a tricky situation, anyone who lends a helping hand has all the necessary info to reunite us.
Using the Quick Snap for Emergency Situations
And here’s the ace up my sleeve – the quick snap on the e-collar band. This nifty feature isn’t just about easy on-and-off during training sessions; it’s a potential lifesaver. If my dog ever gets stuck or faces a choking hazard, that quick snap allows me to free them in seconds. It’s a small detail with a big impact, adding an extra layer to the safety dance of responsible dog ownership.
The quick snap collar from e-collar technology looks like this:
What I Put On My Dog’s Collar Priority #2: Identification
Identification is an obviously important part of your dog’s collar. I have personally found several lost dogs and the very first thing I do is look for an identification tag so that I can try to get ahold of the dog’s owner! There are several different ways of adding an identification tag onto the dog’s collar and none of these are necessarily ‘right’ or ‘wrong… But, here is what my opinions are!
Always put multiple phone numbers on the dog’s identification tag
Having multiple contact numbers on their tags is a golden rule. It’s like a backup plan – just in case one of us is unreachable, there’s always another lifeline. These dog collar safety features go beyond just looking good; they’re a practical way to make sure someone can reach us if our pups decide to embark on an unplanned adventure.
Jangling or sound proof, do you care if your dog’s identification tag makes noise?
Now, let’s talk about the tag jangle – some pups don’t mind it, while others act like they’re auditioning for a percussion band. It’s all about personal preference. Likewise, some owners don’t seem to mind it, while the ‘jangling’ noise tends to drive me crazy!
If you’re on Team “Silence is Golden,” you might want to consider a soundproof tag. Balancing stylish and functional dog collars means taking into account the little details that make a big difference in your pup’s comfort and your sanity.
The worst ‘soundproof’ tag
Getting a tag for your dog that is soundproof is useless if that said tag breaks within 1 day. Then you really won’t be able to hear it! These are the ‘soundproof’ dog collar tags that I have personally tried and found useless because they break off within a few weeks and I never see them again.
DO NOT BUY THESE TAGS!!!
The best ‘soundproof’ tag
The best soundproof tag I have ever used, and the one I personally use, is made from metal and not sillicone. Maybe your dogs do not wrestle or roughhouse, but the second mine do the sillicone ones fall off. So, I look for a tag that does NOT hang, but also will NOT break. This tag has never fallen off and always remains secure around my e collar band.
Put medical information on your dog’s tag, if they need medicine or have any conditions
For those extra layers of safety, tossing in some medical information on the tag is a smart move. If your furball has any special needs or conditions, having it right there on the collar is like a note to anyone who lends a helping hand. It’s one of those dog collar identification tips that can make all the difference in a crucial moment.
Put a return address on your dog’s collar – home sweet home
And of course, let’s not forget the good old return address. If our mischievous pals decide to go on a solo mission, having an address on their collar ensures they find their way back home. It’s not just about safety; it’s about peace of mind, knowing that if they get lost, someone kind will guide them back to us.
What I Put On My Dog’s Collar Priority #3: Training
Being able to train my dogs and communicate with them with the use of their collar is huge. Their collar is not just ‘dead-weight’ but its actually a tool that we can use to bond and grow closer in our relationship. They get to explore the world because of the tools on their collar!
Which band do I use? Quick Snap Mini Bungee Collar
Let’s get down to the nitty-gritty of my doggy training arsenal.
The star of the show? The 3/4″ Quick Snap Mini Bungee Collar – an absolute game-changer for convenient e-collar training. Why? The Quick Snap Mini Bungee Collar has an easy-on, easy-off design, thanks to the quick snap feature which helps so much for off-leash dog safety. No more wrestling with collars; it’s a breeze.
Plus, the fashion-forward part – it comes in Black, Blue, Brown, Green, Orange, Pink, Purple, Red, Teal, and Yellow. Stylish and functional – my kind of combo.
Each button on the remote (and there are four: red, yellow, orange, and red again) corresponds to one of my dogs’ colors. It’s like a high-tech doggy rainbow, making remote control dog training a walk in the park.
Here are some resources from my website that are about training with an e collar and without an e collar that you may find helpful.
Now, let’s talk about the real magic – e-collar training. It’s not just about teaching your pup to sit and stay; it’s a lifeline for off-leash adventures. Off-leash dog safety is paramount, and e-collar training gives me the confidence that my dogs will come running back when I call. It’s like having a conversation with them, a silent understanding that keeps them safe and happy. While you’re at it, check out these hilarious (not really that funny) off leash fails….
Here are some more e-collar resources if you are interested!
What I Put On My Dog’s Collar Priority #4: GPS Location
If you have off leash dogs, lets face it you need to have some form of GPS tracking device on their collar. It’s for peace of mind but also hugely important for that ‘what if’ of them getting lost or you losing track of them momentarily. Let’s chat about GPS tracking and how it might just be the game-changer we didn’t know we needed for our chaos-makers. I have tried MANY and have also LOST many…. so I know the pain.
Using an Apple AirTag to Track My Dogs Location
There are hundreds (probably) of fancy tracking devices out there for our dogs, but my favorite is the Apple Airtag. (call me boring!)
When it comes to ensuring the safety and whereabouts of my off-leash adventurers, the Apple AirTag emerges as a cornerstone of dog collar safety features. The airtag does not faulty in its ability to track my dogs, and it works basically the exact same as the fancy expensive ones that require a subscription, although it does NOT do the fun/fancy thingsl ike track their health/sleep, steps.
Functioning like a digital leash, this ingenious device provides the peace of mind that, even in their wanderlust moments, I can effortlessly track down my pups with just a few taps on my phone.
Plus, air-tags are pretty affordable. They are about $90 for 4 of them and you don’t have to have a subscription. You can look at the listing on amazon here:
Major downside of using an apple air-tag: I lose them all the time
One major downside of using an apple airtag to help me not lose my dogs is… well, I lose my apple airtags. My dogs play hard and I noticed the airtag holders continually fell off, broke, and we’d lose the airtags. Although you may be asking ‘why can’t you just track the airtag and go find it?’… We did! However, in open fields with tall grass, the airtag would be leading me to the general location of my DOG but it can be tough to trace down a tiny airtag. Also, the airtags DO die after awhile. Once, someone also STOLE a lost airtag of mine (so that was fun)…
In other words, if you are using an apple airtag, take it from me, and do NOT buy the following airtag-holders because they will break and fall off of your dog’s collar and you may never recover them.
Do not use the following airtag holders – they will break!!!
This ultra-durable accessory not only fits snugly on all widths of collars but also comes in a convenient 4-pack. (Well, for us crazy people who have 4 dogs)
Seamlessly attaching to the e-collar band is easy because the e collar bands have pre-made holes for easy installation. And better than that, you won’t lose it and have to buy new holders/air-tags every few weeks/months. You can find it here.
What I Put On My Dogs Collar – Summary
In a nutshell, what I put on my dogs’ collars goes beyond just a simple collar. I have the band from e-collar tech, the device from e-collar tech, a soundproof and reliable form of identification, the apple airtag with the reliable means of holding it (which won’t fall off) and have thought through the inclusion of safety features like the quick snap on the e-collar band ensures swift removal in potential choking hazards.
While GPS tracking, notably through the Apple AirTag, provides an extra layer of security for off-leash adventures, the identification game is strong with multiple contact numbers, medical information, and a return address on their tags.
Training is a breeze with the easy-on, easy-off design of the 3/4″ Quick Snap Mini Bungee Collar, coupled with the convenience of color-coded remote control for multiple dogs. Finally, the waterproof and secure IPX8 AirTag holder takes the worry out of losing tags during aquatic escapades. It’s a comprehensive approach, blending style and functionality for a well-rounded canine care strategy.
Great Danes are giant breed dogs and if you’ve spent any time around them, you know they are both “Gentle Giant” and “Giant train-wreck!” If you know, you know. Here are 5 obedience commands every Great Dane should know.
Today’s post is part tongue-in-cheek, part reality, and 100% necessary if you live with a dog that is larger than life!
Great Dane Nicknames
Because living with a giant-breed dog has its moments, many people lovingly find themselves degrading their dog’s names into a series of nicknames.
Beau = Bozo
Moose – Mooove it
Duke – Doofus Face
Bella – Big Bella
Wren – Wreck it Wren
And so on. Us Dane owners mean well, we really do! So in order to avoid shouting a constant stream of frustrated expletives, it’s important that our big dogs are well-trained. Here are my 5 top obedience commands all Great Dane dogs should know.
Get Out of There!
Remember, Great Danes are NOSY. They want to know what is going on, why it’s happening, and how they can help.
They will slam open doors, stick half their body into the open fridge, jump into the car (hopeful for a ride somewhere), and be the first ones to greet your guests.
That’s why teaching a solid “OUT” or “WALK AWAY” command to your Great Dane is so important.
“OUT” or “WALK AWAY” means, “get the flip out of there“.
Keep in mind that some people use the term “OUT” to command a dog to drop something or stop in bite work sports, so if that’s you, choose a different word.
By using a calm voice, you can help keep Bozo or Jackass from getting into places they shouldn’t – like the neighbor’s trash cans.
How to teach this:
With your dog on a leash, encourage them to explore something interesting and novel such as a box or toy.
Then say “WALK AWAY” and apply a small amount of leash tension. As soon as your dog turns towards you, say YES and then toss a few treats on the ground. The treats should be behind you so that your dog has to literally walk away from the object to get to them.
Repeat this several times, then practice again another time or day. With time and practice, your Great Dane will understand the command and you’ll be able to give it when needed. For example, when Doofus Face is nosing into the bathroom while you are taking a shower.
Get Off of That!
Jumping is for trampoline parks, and coffee tables are for…coffee.
The “OFF” command literally means “get off”. That could mean anything from “Get off of our guests” and “stop jumping” to “get off of the back of the couch!” or “why are you on the table, again!”.
Many a jumping Great Dane has landed a human in the ER with bumps, bruises, and breaks. Not to mention the fact these so-called “majestic” creatures are nothing more than giant, clumsy cats.
They believe they fit on laps, love to give kisses, and are likely to have no hesitation about getting on top of crates, tables, or counters.
Great Danes do NOT KNOW HOW BIG THEY ARE.
I repeat. They have no clue and they don’t care, either.
You have to teach OFF. For Great Danes, this particular obedience command is more important than “SIT”. Prove me wrong! If you are ready to learn how to train a great dane not to jump, get on top of things, or hop the fence, read on.
How to teach this:
The trick with this particular command is that to truly practice it, your dog may have to be doing something we don’t want them doing. However, because we don’t want Big Bella practicing the behavior of sitting on top of the counters, it’s best to avoid that situation.
You can replicate it, however, with a towel.
Keep your dog on a leash. Put a towel on the ground and ask your dog to be on it (it’s helpful if your dog knows the “PLACE” command, which we cover below).
Say “OFF” and toss a treat away from the towel. If your dog won’t leave the towel, add a little leash pressure as a tactile communication.
Rinse and repeat. Several times, because dogs need repetition!
With time, you’ll be able to apply the “OFF” obedience command to several things (for example, jumping on a guest or the fence, which should be first practiced while your dog is on a leash. As soon as your dog goes to jump, say “OFF” and toss a treat away from the person or thing that they are jumping on).
Quit Pulling, We’re Not in a Sled Race!
Great Danes that pull, lunge, or display reactivity on a leash are actually pretty dangerous animals. I’m not talking dangerous like a shark, I’m talking dangerous like a FREIGHT TRAIN.
Yes, even sweet Moose, who wouldn’t hurt a fly, can take you for a ride if he sees a squirrel he wants!
Enter the following commands “HEEL”, “WITH ME”, “EASY”, “TOUCH”, and “LOOK”.
I know what you are saying here. “But Hello Danes people, that’s 5 commands for just this one thing!!!”
Hear me out. All of those sub-commands are how you will be able to safely and gently control a young, powerful, 140 lb intact male dog on a loose leash. But they have to be taught.
Heel – Walk neatly by my side
With Me – Walk nicely near me
Easy – Cool your jets
Touch – Touch your nose to my palm
Look – Make eye contact with me
How to teach this:
Because this is SUCH a broad topic, here are some of our favorite articles. There are many theories out there on how to control a Great Dane; we wouldn’t be Hello Danes if we didn’t share our favorites (and our gripes, too).
As before, good training uses a lot of treats. Here are some of our dog’s favorites:
Stay Put!
Sometimes we want our Great Danes to walk by our side. Occasionally, we may even welcome them throwing their entire bodies onto our laps or jumping up onto our shoulders for loving. Other times, we want to watch them run and zoomie all over the place.
That is, of course, until they become an elephant in an antique store.
To put this bluntly, there are times when you just need Wreck-it-Wren to stay in one place. Stop moving, stop knocking things over, stop stepping on toes, stop begging at the dinner table, stop rushing the door when guests enter the home…shall I go on?
Enter the “PLACE” command. Think of it like your dog’s charging device. Occasionally, they need to go back on their chargers to rest and stay out of your way.
How to Teach This
Use a mat, towel, elevated cot, or dog bed.
Throw a treat on the mat and say “PLACE”. Your dog will go onto the mat, at which point you will also praise your dog. Then say “FREE” and toss a treat off of the mat.
Gradually add time between your “PLACE” and “FREE” commands, and with practice, you’ll even be able to walk away. Start by taking one step back, then 5, then 10, and so on until you can go out of sight, open the front door, or eat a meal and have your dog stay on the mat until you say the magic word (FREE).
You don’t need to use corrections, pressure, or frustration to teach this! Just be patient and take baby steps.
Hey You, Get Back Here!
I don’t know about you, but I don’t want my giant freight train of a dog running amok off-leash and refusing to come when called.
Don’t believe me? Here is my list of ways that people sabotage their dog’s recall before they even get started. For fun, give yourself one point for every failure:
Allowing a dog off-leash that isn’t 100% reliable off-leash
Scolding a dog who ran off, when they finally do return
Use the long line and the treats to teach and reward recall (“COME”) several times in several different places. Your dog should be able to come back for a treat, praise, or fun game from 1 foot away or 20 feet away in several environments.
Now, if you did an OOOPS and scolded your dog, even once, for ignoring the word “COME”, I suggest changing that word to something that you can build a fresh positive association with. Examples include “HERE” or “JOIN ME”.
Coming back should ALWAYS be a party and a good time.
At that point, you can layer in an E-Collar, which uses gentle muscle stimulation to replace leash pressure (making it an exceptional backup device for off-leash exploration anywhere you go).
When I met my friend Natalie (we have littermates and started this blog together), I was a noisy card-carrying member of the ‘force-free’ dog training club. Both of us were anti-Purina and hated ‘big kibble’, too. I disliked breeders and believed only in rescue. Prong collars and E-Collars? NEVER.
Together, we wanted our blog to be rooted in ethics, not to mention current research, science, and methods.
What surprised me was learning just how much my mind began to change as I researched and shared information from legitimate scientific sources. The more studies I read and the more I learned, the farther I strayed from those original ideas I had about training, food, and breeding.
I have since revoked my membership to the force-free, kibble-hating, breeder-hating dog club.
As a science-backed blogger and dog advocate, here are 5 CONTROVERSIAL ways I raise my Danes. From nutrition to training, to E-Collars, I’m sharing it all!
We Don’t Rest After Meals
In the Great Dane community, it’s long been cited that resting before or after meals would prevent bloat.
(Bloat is a deadly condition in large and giant breed dogs where their stomach fills up with gas, fluid, or air. If the stomach flips, the prognosis is grim. This condition is often sudden and may result in death, quickly. There is no known trigger. However, there are known risk factors including genetics, unstable temperaments, and poor gut health).
However, during THIS STUDY at Tufts University, researchers found absolutely no correlation between exercise and bloat. The study indicated that most cases of bloat happen to dogs that are resting, not moving!
There was no correlation of bloat risk to exercise before or after eating, as most dogs bloated in the middle of the night with an empty, gas-filled stomach.
Tufts University Bloat Study
This is not to say that rest will kill a Great Dane. But we need to stop villifying movement and food, too.
There has never been a single study proving that movement caused bloat in dogs or that rest was a legitimate way to keep it from happening. As a matter of fact, bloat rates have increased dramatically in the last 30+ years despite ‘resting’ being cited as a preventative.
I hate to break it to you, but it’s not working.
While it may be smart to take it easy after meals to prevent indigestion or stretching the stomach ligaments out (which CAN lead to an increased risk of bloat over time), movement itself is not likely to be a trigger.
I don’t believe in the false sense of security that this old-school, outdated advice provides.
I Use a Prong Collar
Prong collars look awful. They are metal and pokey, which makes people assume that they work by being extremely painful.
Here is the actual reality:
A properly fit, high-quality Herm Sprenger prong collar is less aversive, less frustrating, and more humane than a front clip harness, “Gentle Leader”, or never getting to go out because of dangerous pulling and lunging behavior.
Why is this? Prong collars are built to distribute pressure evenly around the neck. This pressure does not hurt or pinch, but it is uncomfortable.
Coincidentally, the pressure from front-clip “no-pull” harnesses and “gentle leaders” is uncomfortable too. That’s why they work. The difference here is that the prong collar doesn’t rely on restricting movement.
“No-Pull” harnesses restrict shoulder movement and alter the dog’s gait, causing potential damage and pain to the front assembly and joints. “Gentle Leader” type head collars restrict neck and head movement and can potentially damage the eyes, nose, jaw, and spine.
Watch THIS video on YouTube to learn more. ⬅ One of the best parts about this video is that the dog’s body language immediately improves when the trainer removes the harness from her! The harness was causing suppression of her emotion and behavior; a common problem that people don’t notice or care to admit.
Prong collars do not harm dogs, suppress, or restrict them. The amount of pressure needed to communicate with one can be applied with a single finger. With proper training, the dog learns to remove this pressure by turning back to you for a reward.
The prong collar offers a simple, painless, on-off sensation that solves a LOT of problems for millions of people struggling with their dogs.
Look, these are GIANT breed dogs. Even the most well trained animal is stronger than most humans. Lunging, pulling, and reactivity are dangerous behaviors in Great Danes, and it’s not fair to lock them up for life because we cannot trust them to be polite, calm, and gentle on a leash.
As I mentioned above, I revoked my card to the anti-Purina club. I used to be a rabid hater of all things Purina. As far as I was concerned, Royal Canin was trash, and Hill’s Science Diet? Don’t get me started.
So how did I go from that negative mentality about the ‘Big 5 Foods’ to telling people who feed kibble that those brands are actually among only a small handful of acceptable choices?
All three of my dogs were struggling in some way or another. Chronic loose stools, swollen paws, itching, heat intolerance. Then one of my dogs became very, very sick. She was lethargic, had become weak, had no muscle tone, and had developed some concerning health problems.
My veterinarian implored me to put her on Hill’s Science Diet or Purina, a suggestion that I thought was appalling and gross. I thought, “She is literally dying, why would I put her on that food and make it worse?”
So I took her bloodwork into Chuck & Don’s and asked a pet store employee to look it over and give me advice.
Read that again. I asked a pet store employee, with no qualifications, to tell me how to treat my dog.
He told me to choose a “high-quality” diet from their shelves, and “steer clear of that nasty Hill’s Science Diet trash“.
In telling me this, he validated my own misguided beliefs, and generated sales. ?
It made ME feel good to buy that $90 bag of ‘Holistic Super-Premium” kibble, but it did not make my dog feel good. As a matter of fact, it did nothing for her.
Do you know what did make her feel good and ultimately saved her life? PURINA PRO PLAN.
Within weeks of feeding Purina, she was developing muscle tone again. All of her symptoms reversed completely and her energy level skyrocketed. My other dogs were suddenly thriving, too. It was nothing like I had been told.
Many dog food brands use sneaky tricks and marketing tactics including ‘Ingredient Splitting’ to make you think the food has a higher meat content or is healthier. Everything they say is to get you to make a purchase.
The more ‘holistic, natural, and premium’ the kibble seems, the more likely it is that they are better at marketing than they are at making truly nutritious and balanced food.
READ MORE at the Tufts University Petfoodolgy blog. This is the most scientific, modern source for nutrition information and is run by veterinarians with board certifications in nutrition. One of the veterinary nutritionists is even a consultant for BalanceIt, where you can create safe, balanced homemade food recipes for your dog. Everything they say is backed by actual research, and you won’t find an ad, affiliate link, or financial motivation in sight.
My Dogs are E-Collar Trained
Yup. That’s me. Former “Force-Free” dog training fanatic.
All three of my dogs are now E-Collar trained. The “force-free / R+ / Positive ” dog training community HATES E-Collars, and with good reason.
Too many frustrated people buy cheap shock collars on Amazon and zap the crap out of their unsuspecting, poorly-trained pets. This is not humane and it’s not fair.
E-Collars are different. They first require that the dog has a good foundation in basic positive obedience.
Then, they use a gentle muscle stimulation that is not aversive or painful. This stimulation is often imperceptible to humans and replaces leash pressure. By replacing leash pressure, we can effectively and safely eliminate physical restraint. This is an incredible innovation for giant breed dogs who are strong and powerful!
By eliminating physical restraint, we eliminate the frustration, safety problems, physical power struggles, and potential damage to the head, neck, and shoulders that can be caused by collars, head collars, harnesses, and long lines.
Because I trained my dogs to respond to very low levels of muscle stimulation, they can be off-leash anywhere that it is safe and legal to do so. They don’t have to drag long lines around, I can trust them to be in my front yard, and they would never, ever dream of bolting, jumping a fence, or leaving our property. If they did, the pressure (not shocks! Pressure, like hitting the end of a long leash) from their E-Collar will remind them to turn around.
When they turn around, the pressure is gone; they are 100% in control of their collars and the sensation that comes from them.
Run from any dog trainer who tells you that an E-Collar is always aversive and a harness and life on a long leash are not. They do not understand how behavior science, modern E-Collar training, or how physical restraints of all kinds utilize pressure and punishment in different ways.
Since E-Collar training my dogs, they have more freedom, more choice, and more enrichment than ever before.
I Let My Dogs be Dogs
What does it mean to let a dog be a dog?
It means letting them get dirty. Allowing them to roll in mud pits, dig holes, crawl through the grass, and explore the world around them to their heart’s content.
Letting a dog be a dog means treating them like dogs, not people or children. Giving them boundaries and saying NO to keep them safe, so that I can tell them YES as much as possible.
It means letting them sniff the ground on walks, or better yet, be allowed to run naturally and freely off-leash as much as possible. That off-leash privilege begins with training, lots of boundaries, and yes, an E-Collar.
All three of my dogs have orthopedic issues related to injuries from before I got them. Two are missing legs, one has a very deformed foot. I do not coddle them. They are allowed to run, play, tumble, struggle, fall, and get up again like any other dog. I take them to training classes. We go hiking. We walk. We play.
With Boundaries, of Course…
Educated dog ownership means never humanizing their emotions.
Dogs are not spiteful or jealous or ‘dominant’, they are however often insecure, pushy, or rude and desperately need our guidance and understanding, not our assumptions and judgments.
I have a no-tolerance policy when it comes to teeth, nails, and baths. My dogs get their spa treatments on a regular basis whether they like it or not. This is one place where I don’t let them just ‘be dogs’, because if I did, I would be neglecting needs that aren’t met naturally in the typical suburban home.
We see the veterinarian regularly. I don’t coddle them there but we do make it a good experience – so much so that even my more timid rescue girl will willingly go with the veterinarian and lay down politely for her exams. They step onto the scales because I made it clear that it was not-negotiable.
To some extent, I believe that the ‘force-free’ and ‘fear-free’ movement is harmful. Dogs who never face stress don’t learn to cope with it either, and it’s not uncommon for frustration, reactivity and fear to increase with those methods.
As a reformed ‘force-free’ person, I now realize just how much science is cherry picked to fit that belief system.
Dogs are not babies. We don’t have to coddle them or remove every single stress from their lives. Being isolated and restrained in the name of avoiding all forms of stress is no life for a dog at all. That said, we don’t have to be jerks to them, either! Force and harsh physical handling are not cool. Find some middle ground.
Because I have high expectations of them, they are happier, calmer, friendlier, and stronger as a result!
Bonus: I Keep My Dogs LEAN
If I had a dollar for every person who asked me if my dogs were starving, I’d be rich. They are not starving. They are covered in muscle and have tons of energy. Starving dogs can’t say the same.
We are SO used to seeing overweight dogs, that a healthy-weight dog covered in muscle can appear alarmingly thin. Our perception has been skewed.
Truth time: overweight dogs have shorter lifespans (2 years, on average). They are more likely to suffer from arthritis, joint problems, cancer, heart problems, and complications related to anesthesia, among other things.
Danes are a lean breed. They take forever to mature, too. This photo is of my intact male at around age 2. He still has some filling out to do here, but not in terms of fat! His head, chest, and hips continued to broaden from this point on.
If you want to reduce cancer risk, keep your dog lean! That’s step one.
I really could add a 7th item to this list about spaying and neutering, but I’ll stop here and save it for another day 🙂
Great Danes are often seen as couch potato dogs that don’t need a lot of exercise. This is a bit of a myth! Of course, every dog is different, so considering their age, health, and energy levels is key. But Great Danes can be a surprisingly athletic and agile dog!
We believe in allowing Great Danes freedom to run, play, and explore. Too many people allow their big dogs to become obese, which can shorten their lifespan by two years on average. All too often we’ve noticed that obesity and the outdated belief that resting after meals will “prevent bloat” go hand in hand (read more about the resting myth here).
The truth is that most Great Danes are not getting enough enrichment OR movement, and it’s causing health issues, anxiety, destructive behaviors, and boredom.
Today we’re going to dig into this and discover:
How much exercise do Great Danes need
If Great Danes are a high energy dog or a couch potato
How to keep a Great Dane fit and healthy
Alleviating boredom, “stubbornness”, and destructive behaviors with exercise and enrichment
What is it Like to Live with a Great Dane?
Great Danes are giant breed dogs that weigh anywhere from 120 to 200 pounds. They are one of the tallest breeds of dogs, and they are also one of the heaviest.
Despite their large size, Great Danes are gentle giants who are known for being loving and affectionate with their families. Great Danes thrive on human interaction and many enjoy guests in your home and will happily meet people in public, too.
Well-bred, well-trained, and properly socialized Great Danes are a joy to live with.
Many Danes, unfortunately, suffer from anxiety and stress, which can also increase their risk of bloat.
Make sure that your Great Dane is well-socialized and give your dog plenty of opportunities to build confidence and positive associations with the world.
Do Great Danes Need a Big House?
Contrary to popular belief, Great Danes don’t need a huge house or yard! Unlike higher-energy working breeds (such as poodles or shepherds), many Great Danes have an excellent off-switch.
This means that when they are provided with enough enrichment and exercise, they are perfectly content to lounge (so long as there is a couch with their name on it).
Even the calmest and most docile Dane can become destructive when bored, anxious, or under-stimulated.
Many people believe that some toys, other pets, and a yard are enough. They are then surprised when their huge dog eats the house!
All big dogs, but especially Great Danes who live in smaller homes or in homes with no yard benefit greatly from off-leash training.
This will allow them natural freedom of movement and opportunities to explore the environment without frustrating physical restraints.
You don’t need a big house, as long as you are willing to give your Great Dane access to the big world.
Do Great Danes Need a Fenced Yard?
A fenced yard is a wonderful thing to have, but we know that many people who live in apartments or in homes with no fencing would love to own a Great Dane!
If you live in an apartment, we recommend that you get involved in some form of dog sports such as rally obedience, scent work, off-leash hiking, or even just basic obedience classes.
This will give your dog the physical and mental stimulation that they need to be happy and well-adjusted.
Are Great Danes High-Energy Dogs?
There is a misconception that Great Danes are couch potatoes.
Many Dane owners are surprised to find that their dog needs a good amount of exercise!
While Great Danes are not as high-energy as some other breeds, they do need daily exercise to stay happy and healthy.
Some dogs will respond to a lack of enrichment by becoming depressed and having low energy.
Others will be difficult to control, noisy, and frustrating.
A bored or under-enriched Great Dane can, AND WILL, destroy your home. That’s not fair to you or to the dog who felt the need to do it in the first place.
Unlike a small herding dog, a Great Dane has large teeth and can eat entire couches, tear up the carpet, and shred drywall in a matter of minutes.
Some people mistake these behaviors as ‘defiance’ or ‘spite’. The truth is that the dog is simply bored and needs an outlet for its energy.
Providing your Great Dane with daily exercise, both mental and physical, is the best way to prevent them from becoming destructive.
Can Great Danes Stay Home Alone?
Great Danes are not the best breed for people who work long hours or are gone frequently.
Like all dogs, they require regular exercise, which may be difficult to provide if the schedule is too busy to provide much more than a few short walks.
While they can stay home alone for short periods, they do much better in homes where someone is around more often. Great Danes thrive on social contact with humans and other dogs, so daily isolation can be hard on them.
Read on to learn more about Great Dane enrichment and exercise!
Great Dane Puppies Exercise
We recommend that the majority of enrichment your puppy receives comes from off-leash play and positive socialization.
Walks are, quite frankly, overrated! A growing puppy does not make a great running partner, either.
Large breeds (and giants especially) should be fully mature before engaging in running or long walks on pavement.
Our socialization guide covers several activities that build strength and confidence, including fun puppy playgrounds, exploration, and early training tips. We’ve included alternatives to traditional ‘walks’ that are more fun, engaging, and enriching!
Many people believe that their puppy should “go on walks”, but we don’t consider that an important form of exercise for most dogs, especially Dane puppies.
Walks, if used, should be for socialization and training purposes, or to get from point a to point b. Good leash skills are important and all Great Danes must be taught to walk politely from a young age.
However, a daily walk is the most over-rated form of exercise we can think of. Walking on pavement does little for muscle development and mental enrichment, especially when you compare this activity to a more natural form of exercise (off-leash exploration).
Puppies need a LOT of sleep. Make sure your Great Dane puppy is resting and napping often. When your puppy is awake, work on socialization and basic positive reinforcement training!
The more time you can spend exposing your puppy to different textures, sights, and sounds, the better.
15 minutes in a small kiddie pool filled with some water and floating toys is much better enrichment for a puppy than a walk.
As above, keep in mind that your puppies’ joints require care. Avoid slick floors, jumping, and excessive playing or running on asphalt and pavement.
Health problems related to joints are a common problem with Great Danes, and a little care when they are young will go a long ways!
Crates are important for keeping your Great Dane safe when it has to be left alone, however, too much crate time can lead to weak feet and poor development.
Keep this in mind when evaluating if a Great Dane puppy is the right fit for your family.
You can provide a secure area with a lot of space for your puppy to move (such as an empty room) as an alternative to excessive crate times, and hire a dog walker to help.
We recommend limiting crate time to no more than one hour per month of life, and no more than 8 hours from 8 months of age up.
This will ensure that their bones and muscles are receiving the correct balance of nutrients to thrive. See our most popular nutrition articles below for more information!
Great Dane adult exercise
Adult Great Danes should receive at least 30 minutes of off-leash exercise per day.
This can be in the form of swimming, playing with another dog friend, or going for a hike.
They should also receive at least 30 minutes of enrichment. These can be things such as obedience training, food puzzles, trick training, or visiting a novel place.
Short on time? Use the food puzzles during meal times!
If you have more time and your giant dog is well-trained, visit a brewery!
If training issues are a problem, enroll in a weekly obedience class with a positive reinforcement balanced dog trainer and work towards a Canine Good Citizen Title.
Many people believe that Great Danes should be lazy and slow because of their giant size. This is a common misconception of the breed that simply isn’t true. Great Dane dogs should be lean, athletic, and fit.
A well-kept, healthy-weight Great Dane will be muscular, agile, shiny, energetic, friendly, confident, and healthy. Not slow, cumbersome, heavy, or weak. Giant dogs can do incredible things when we keep them fit!
What happens when dogs don’t get enough exercise?
Danes that do not get enough exercise are often destructive, anxious, and difficult. They can also suffer from health problems such as weakness and flat feet, resulting from a lack of muscle development and unrestricted movement.v
Some dogs need more than just 30 minutes, too!
All of that pent-up energy has to go somewhere, and chances are that you are not going to like where your big dog puts that energy. (Goodbye, couch!).
We say this often and we will say it again; for most dogs, a daily leashed walk and some toys are just not enough.
Think about how many dogs lived before vast urban environments and busy suburban lifestyles became normal.
They were free to run, play, nap, explore and sniff around. Many of them were never on a leash. A lot of dogs worked by chasing rats, herding livestock, retrieving things, or hunting.
Dogs would run, play in the water, pick up sticks, nap in the grass, and then run some more. Aggression and anxiety were minimal at best.
Destructive, anxious, frustrated, reactive, and difficult dogs are a modern concept that has come with the belief that dogs should stay indoors most of the day and live their life restrained by leashes, harnesses, and collars.
Modern dogs are all too often coddled, humanized, and isolated.
We all want to spoil and love on our pets, but we should never forget that they are still, in fact, dogs.
We believe that whenever possible, dogs need to be able to run and play freely without being restricted by a leash. This is how they relieve stress, build confidence, and stay mentally and physically fit.
Not to mention the fact that Great Danes are prone to several orthopedic health issues, which can be made worse by the overuse of physical restraint. This is especially true when relying heavily on training tools such as front-clip harnesses or head collars.
All dogs must learn to walk politely on a leash, however, given the chance, being off-leash as much as possible is a much more humane and healthy choice.
Off-leash training comes with responsibility, though! You should only let your Dane off-leash if they have excellent recall, an appropriate temperament, and only in places where doing so is safe, appropriate, and legal.
Prioritize this training. We recommend E-Collar training for all Great Danes. If your Dane cannot be off-leash or is dangerous to people or dogs, work with a trainer! They may be able to help.
If you live in an urban area, many dog parks provide a great opportunity for your friendly and social Great Dane to play and move.
We are covering dog parks in more depth below; they can be good OR bad, depending on the situation!
How do I Keep my Great Dane Healthy?
Great Danes are prone to several health issues that can shorten their lifespan.
Some of these issues are genetic, and some are environmental. Unfortunately, because Great Danes are so unusually large, they are more susceptible to environmental factors than other dogs.
Great Dane joint health
Great Danes grow extremely fast as puppies. The wrong nutrition and too much of the wrong kind of exercise can do a number on their joint health, which will affect them into adulthood.
Not only that but Great Danes are plagued by unethical breeders who are carelessly passing on structural faults, which are damaging and painful to our gentle giants.
Roached backs, weak hips, cow hocks, dysplasia, flat feet, and poor angulation all play a role in how a Great Dane moves and functions in its body.
Dogs with poor structure will especially benefit from strength-building and natural movement on soft, varied terrain.
Make sure you are choosing diligent breeders who are proving their dog’s structure before breeding them.
Good nutrition will contain natural joint support (such as glucosamine chondroitin) from cartilage (look for a meat meal and/or a meat by-product meal in your pet food).
Great Dane weight
Keeping your dog at a healthy body weight is one of the most important things you can do to keep them healthy!
Great Danes are especially prone to obesity, which puts a lot of strain on their joints and internal organs.
On average, dogs that are kept lean and fit will live 2 years longer than if they are allowed to become overweight!
You should be able to feel your dog’s ribs without too much effort. If you can’t, they are likely overweight and could benefit from a change in diet and an increase in exercise.
Obesity in Great Danes can lead to heart problems, diabetes, arthritis, and more.
Great Dane nutrition and food
Nutrition plays a key role in the health of any dog, but it’s especially important for Great Danes.
As we mentioned before, they grow very quickly and their bones and joints are under a lot of strain. Young dogs are particularly susceptible to joint injury, bone growth problems, and the development of health problems such as brittle bones and knuckling.
A diet that is too high in calcium or not balanced correctly can cause problems down the road. Your dog’s diet can greatly impact their health, and the best foods for Great Danes may not be what you think!
DCM (heart failure) is a problem associated with poorly formulated and poorly researched foods.
Many pet foods have excellent marketing departments but have people with questionable credentials formulating the food that your dog eats every single day. They market these foods with unregulated terms such as ‘holistic’, ‘human grade’, and ‘super-premium’.
We recommend feeding your Great Dane the following brands (see our list below, all are clickable).
Nothing else compares when it comes to research, science, nutrition, quality, and dedication to correct formulations.
Puppies, including giant breeds such as Danes, should receive puppy foods until 18-24 months. Use manufacturer guidelines and the recommendation of your veterinarian as a guide for this.
What are the Best Forms of Exercise for Great Danes?
Not all exercise is created equal! Here are some of the best ways to provide movement and enrichment to your dog.
Off-Leash Enrichment and Free-Play
As above, we believe that off-leash enrichment and free play are ideal activities for Great Danes.
Use a long leash until your dog has a rock-solid recall, and be mindful of when and where you let your dog off-leash (especially if there are children, wildlife, or traffic nearby).
E-Collar training is a gentle and positive way to ditch the leash! The sensation from an e-collar replaces leash pressure, and dogs respond enthusiastically to this communication.
If you want to learn more about getting your dog off the leash once and for all, our famous Great Dane E-Collar Training Guide will get you, and your dog, off to a fantastic start!
Puzzles & brain games
Slow eating is an excellent way to reduce bloat risk in Great Danes. Bloat is a deadly condition and dogs who eat quickly are at a higher risk of experiencing it.
Puzzle feeders and slow feeders are a great way to turn mealtime into enrichment time!
Your dog will have to use their brain to figure out how to get the food out of the toy, and they’ll be getting a little bit of exercise in the process. Here are some of our favorites!
Dog parks are not for every dog, and they are not always good.
It depends on the individual dog, the other dogs at the park, the type of park, and how well-supervised the play is.
We never want to see a bunch of overwhelmed, over-excited dogs in a small boring fenced area with owners who aren’t paying attention.
The best dog parks are large (multiple acres), have varied terrain (including hills and different textures such as water, grass, sand, gravel, wood, etc.), and the dogs there can easily choose to interact with or avoid other dogs.
When taking your dog to a dog park, evaluate whether or not your dog has the temperament for it. Dogs that are fearful, nippy, pushy, or aggressive need to be working with a trainer, not visiting the dog park.
Training your Great Dane
Dog training classes are a fun way to provide enrichment for you and your dog! Obedience classes don’t have to stop with Puppy Class 101 graduation.
Many great trainers offer weekly drop-in classes where you can work on your Canine Good Citizen title, scent work, confidence building, and more.
As a Great Dane owner, you must be willing to put the time into training.
A Great Dane is such a large dog that pulling, nipping, running away, fence hopping, and jumping on guests can be dangerous.
Attending training classes is a solid win-win for both enrichment and sanity reasons!
There are many reasons to e-collar train your dog.
Some people may be hesitant to use this type of training because they think it is cruel or inhumane. However, nothing could be further from the truth!
When used correctly, e-collar training can provide a variety of benefits for both you and your dog. In this blog post, we will discuss five of the top reasons to e-collar train your dog.
1 – Off Leash Enrichment
One of the great benefits of e-collar training is that it allows you to have your dog off-leash in a safe and controlled manner.
This type of training provides your dog with the opportunity to explore and sniff things that they would not be able to if they were on a leash!
Off-leash dogs run, walk, circle, speed up, slow down, zig-zag, climb on things, go under things, play in the water, play chase with other dogs, and bounce through fields.
This kind of enrichment simply does not happen for dogs who are kept on a long leash. As a matter of fact, allowing a dog to move naturally like that, while on a long leash, is dangerous!
Being off-leash allows them to get much-needed freedom of movement, which can greatly benefit their mental and orthopedic health, too.
When working with training your dog to be off-leash, we recommend using a long line (30-50 feet) in addition to the e-collar, but only at first.
The long line is for your dog’s safety and will give you peace of mind while they are exploring and learning how to respond to their collar.
Only take your dog fully off leash when you are confident in their training, and when you are in a safe area where it is legal to allow your dog to be free of restraint.
2 – Reduce Stress & Anxiety
Modern E-Collar training is fun and positive! It should not be associated with punishment or negativity in any way.
You can use the e-collar to help give your dog a positive association with the things they may find scary or overwhelming. Because they are able to move freely in an E-Collar and aren’t trapped by a leash, many dogs who are fearful and reactive naturally become calmer and more confident!
When we reduce stress, anxiety, and reactivity by giving our dogs choice and freedom, we are also helping to improve their immune system and overall health.
Stress is one of the proven factors in bloat risk; so it’s important that we use positive, fun training methods that reduce anxiety! Modern e-collar training is FUN and positive!
E-Collar training should always be conducted in a positive manner, with the goal of helping your dog feel happy, confident, and safe.
If you have a dog who is fearful or anxious, we recommend working with a professional trainer who can help you create a positive training environment.
A key reason to E-Collar train your dog is the simple fact that, unlike harnesses, collars, head collars, or leashes, the E-Collar does not put any physical restraints on the dog’s body.
This is important for two reasons: first because it allows the dog to move freely without any risk of injury; and second, because pulling and lunging simply cannot happen in an E-Collar.
The gentle stimulation from a modern remote training device (e collar) replaces leash pressure. It works just like a cell phone; when your cell phone rings, you answer it. Your dog will learn to ‘answer their phone’.
Because there is no physical pressure or restraint, many timid and reactive dogs become more balanced and well-rounded!
Large and giant breed dogs are plagued with a number of orthopedic health conditions that can make traditional training tools such as ‘no-pull harnesses’ and head collars dangerous.
E-Collar training is a great way to provide your dog with the freedom they need and crave, while still keeping them safe and under your control.
Never again will your large or giant breed dog drag you down the street, and hurt themselves (or you) in the process!
There are many different types of e-collars on the market, so it’s important to do your research and find one that is right for you and your dog.
One of the most important benefits of E-Collar training is the safety it provides for both you and your dog.
An e-collar can be used as a ‘virtual fence’, preventing your dog from running into traffic, chasing wildlife, or getting lost.
A dog that jumps the fence, runs out of the door, or is running around uncontrollably off-leash with nothing on is a liability to itself and to others.
When you choose to e-collar train your dog, you are choosing safety for your pet!
An e-collar-trained dog is amazing reliable off-leash, which gives you peace of mind knowing that your dog will come back to you when called, no matter what.
The added safety an e-collar provides is one of the main reasons we recommend remote collar training for all dogs!
5 – Responsible Dog Ownership
Being a responsible dog owner means making sure your dog is well-behaved and under control at all times.
An e-collar can help you do just that!
E-Collar training provides you with a positive, gentle, modern way to keep your dog safe and under control in any situation, whether you’re out on a hike, at the beach, or even just in your own yard.
By training your dog to be responsive to you off-leash, you reduce the need for physical restraint and increase the chances that you have a calm, friendly canine citizen who can be with you anywhere you go.
Other Reasons to E-Collar Train
Here are just some additional benefits:
Simple way to communicate accurately and quickly from a distance
No more tangled up long leashes
Gentle & positive training method
Pulling, lunging and leash reactivity become a thing of the past
You may never have to worry again about about a door left open, broken fence or your dog running away
Go hiking, explore the beach, visit a friend or hang out in your front yard with no worries at all
Incredible solution for deaf dogs that will give them freedom!
Do you have questions about modern e-collar training?
We are happy to answer any questions you have, give you more reasons to e-collar train, and help you get started on the path to responsible dog ownership!
E-Collar Technologies has a wide variety of e-collars and training resources to fit your needs. Visit our shop to see more!
Electronic collar training, often referred to as “e-collar” training, is a modern method used to train dogs. Unfortunately, it is riddled with myths and misconceptions that can cloud the understanding of this tool’s actual purpose and effectiveness. In this article, we will debunk some of the common E-collar training myths and shed light on the responsible and humane use of electronic collars in dog training.
It’s essential to separate fact from fiction to make informed decisions about this training technique!
What is an E-Collar?
An electronic collar, commonly known as an e-collar or shock collar, is a device designed for dog training and behavior modification. It consists of a collar that fits around a dog’s neck and a handheld remote control.
The primary function of an e-collar is to deliver electronic stimulation. This tactile sensation is a powerful way to communicate with a dog from afar, and it doesn’t have to be painful or unfair.
While the term “shock collar” may sound harsh, it’s important to note that modern e-collars have evolved significantly and offer adjustable levels of stimulation, allowing trainers to use them in a more humane and controlled manner. These devices are not meant to harm or punish the dog but rather to provide clear and consistent communication during training sessions.
When used responsibly, e-collars can be effective tools for teaching dogs to obey commands, prevent certain behaviors, and enhance their overall safety and well-being. However, it’s crucial to emphasize that e-collar training should always be carried out by knowledgeable and experienced trainers who prioritize the dog’s comfort and safety.
Think of it as a wireless leash, but without the physical restraint of a flat collar or harness that can be dangerous or damaging to you or your Great Dane. Today we are going to share 6 E-Collar Training myths that you MUST know about!
Modern Day E-Collars vs. Shock Collars
Many people are confused about the difference between a shock collar and an E-Collar. The difference is HUGE!
A shock collar will deliver a sharp zapping sensation that is meant to be aversive and painful. They are often inexpensive and may lack reliability.
Many people who resort to shock training are at their “wit’s end” with their pet’s behavior, and looking to get their attention with a beep, vibrate, or shock. Negative body language (cowering, running away, yelping, avoidance) is often seen!
E-Collars are different. Also known as “remote electric training collars”, they use electricity to stimulate the muscle. The sensation from a modern E-Collar is a touch sensation that is not meant to be aversive or painful
At low levels, where most pets are responsive, the sensation is imperceptible to humans. At higher levels, it can feel like tiny ants crawling around or a twitch or tickle, not a shock. At the highest levels, it is uncomfortable, but not sharp.
E-Collars offer a versatile, humane, gentle tactile communication that dogs respond to with enthusiasm and positivity!
The exchange of occasional, low-level muscle stimulation, that the dog knows how to turn off, is such an incredible, elegant, and simple trade-off for having absolutely NO leash pressure, no restrictions to movement, and the ability to run, jump, zoom, circle, sniff and explore naturally.
Why are dog E-Collars controversial?
E-Collars are controversial because people don’t understand them.
‘Positive only’ and ‘Force-free’ trainers use a lot of poorly done studies and emotional marketing to promote the idea that electronic training collars are abusive, no matter what.
They believe that shock collar training and e-collar training are the same things (they aren’t!) and that both tools are used deliberately and unfairly to hurt, scare, punish and confuse dogs.
The truth is that incorrect use of poor shock devices can and do cause pain and behavioral problems. No legitimate, ethical and professional dog trainer will recommend a shock collar, especially not to harshly punish aggression and reactivity.
The studies and case studies that people often cite in reference to electric training collars and similar tools (such as prongs) are typically based on harsh or punitive training and other incorrect use scenarios.
E-Collars are very different than shock collars. Many balanced trainers use and recommend high-quality E-Collars for off-leash reliability. The controversial part is that people just don’t know or understand the difference between correct use and abuse.
E-Collars are a communication tool that provides clarity and guidance, not confusion. Using this training tool correctly is all about providing information.
The end goal of proper e-collar training is to give your pet more autonomy, choice, and enrichment, without relying on physical restraint or harsh corrections.
Despite the controversy surrounding remote collar training, the truth is that dogs correctly and thoughtfully taught with this method are confident, balanced, obedient, and have more freedom and autonomy than others can only dream of.
We believe that reward-based training paired with thoughtfully balanced techniques (including e-collars and prong collars) can keep thousands (if not millions) of bored, ‘stubborn’ dogs out of shelters, too.
Myth #1: E-Collars make your dog afraid of you
We highly recommend watching Larry Krohn e collar training videos on his Youtube channel. He has an insane library of content where you can see videos of pets being trained with E-collars who are confident, friendly, and not afraid of Larry Krohn at all.
One mistake many pet owners make when training their dogs with a shock collar is that they rely on it as a punishment tool. Many feel guilty about that so they begin waving the remote as a threat, hoping to stop an act before resorting to zap corrections.
With the aforementioned approach, the pet quickly learns that the remote means they are in trouble. They don’t often know why, only that they should run away. This can make it appear that a remote collar-wearing dog is afraid of its owner!
What’s worse is that teaching an animal to fear the remote and the collar means teaching them run away from the owner, rather than to recall, check-in, and engage.
Correct modern e-collar training relies on both parties involved having mutual respect for each other, and that includes a recall (coming when called) foundation that is rock solid. The remote tool becomes a cell phone, not a big stick that you beat your dog with.
The remote tool and the collar should not be used as threats or for punitive punishments, and if you watch videos of animals being thoughtfully and correctly E-Collar trained you will see positive body language, mutual respect, and enthusiasm.
Train your companion with communication, not fear.
Myth #2: E-Collars burn dog’s necks
While a cheap shock collar can cause damage to the neck, it is impossible for an E-Collar to burn skin. This is another wild myth often promoted by people who have never even felt the stimulation from an E-Collar themselves.
We are a science-based blog, so let’s dig into this!
Cheap shock training devices from Amazon can malfunction, run hot, and shock your dog at the wrong time. Those collars can absolutely cause damage.
An E-Collar from a reputable, high-quality company such as Educator Technologies will cost $175 or more to purchase, and with good reason. Reliability and modern tech are huge when it comes to training ethically and humanely with any kind of remote collar.
The technology that uses electric currents for muscle stimulation (from an E-Collar) is more advanced than the technology required to deliver a sharp static zap (from a cheap shock device).
It’s the difference between buying an old used Samsung s3 and buying an iPhone 13, only this is used to train your dog (not flip through Tik Tok).
Because the electric output of modern electronic collars is less than .01amp at the highest level, it is impossible for this training tool to burn a dog’s skin.
Remember, this modern version uses electrical currents to stimulate the muscle, not cause pain.
Incorrect use of ANY remote collar, however, CAN lead to pressure sores. The contact points are made of metal and can be an irritant when they aren’t rotated and kept clean. This is not unlike a poorly fit harness or head collar, which can cause rubbing and sores too.
User error is a problem resolved only by education and dedication (hence the reason we are here)!
To eliminate the chance of irritation and pressure sores, the collar must be fit correctly (snug, preferably with a bungee collar), the contact points must be kept clean, and the collar must be rotated or removed every few hours.
Electric training collars should never be worn overnight or unsupervised. For pets with sensitive skin, contact points made of different materials are available to try.
This is true of shock devices, for which the only purpose is to punish, scare, and correct.
A properly used E-Collar on the other hand can provide guidance that will improve your relationship and provide your pet with enrichment and opportunities that only a well-behaved dog can have.
With E-Collar training, it’s important that your pup understands what the stimulation sensation means. Through a fun training process using basic obedience commands and conditioning, your dog learns how to respond to and be in control of the sensation.
The dog becomes a willing and active participant in the training.
This pressure becomes a communication, not a punishment, and the pup knows that it means good things to them. Training starts with a good foundation and lots of fun, not harsh punishment or ‘trigger happy’ corrections.
The application of E-Collar pressure is no more “inhumane” than the pressure from a leash and harness; the only difference is that there is no longer a reliance on physical restraint and thus, no damage to the neck, head, or shoulders. The pressure is ‘virtual’, in other words!
Your pet will be able to make choices and move freely, all in exchange for communication from their ‘wireless device’. With this method, the dog dictates every move, free of restraint and you can communicate using a language they understand.
A dog on a long line does not behave the same way as a dog off-leash using a modern wireless tool.
A dog on a long line cannot zoom, spin circles, safely play or climb on, around, or under trees.
Sniffing is great and awesome for dogs, calming, and extremely beneficial for helping them settle and lower their heart rates, but that should not be the only goal! The proper use of modern tools can offer both the “sniffari” and much-needed off-leash enrichment.
The proper fit of a comfortable E-Collar bungee strap: snug with two fingers of room.
The long line should be a backup, when required to satisfy leash laws. When possible, however, it should not be the only way that your Dane gets all of its enrichment and ‘free movement’.
A Dane getting tangled up in a long line is dangerous to you and to themselves.
The E-Collar training method is extremely effective, and those being trained correctly on modern, high-quality remote collars show positive body language and excitement. They can easily be redirected away from incorrect activities, too.
Can an E-collar be used at aversive levels to punish or correct a dog? Absolutely.
But there is a huge difference between punitive corrections and thoughtfully balancing ‘yes and no’ with rewards and the occasional use of an E-Collar correction.
A harlequin Great Dane wearing a remote electric wireless collar and enjoying a creek!
Myth #4: E-Collar training is not ‘science-based’
Well, where do we start! Buckle up, this is a big one.
Many ‘positive-only’ trainers claim to be ‘science-based’. This statement they use in their marketing comes from studies that have shown how positive reinforcement, aka “R+” (the quadrant, not the training method) is the most humane and effective technique for training new behaviors.
We LOVE using R+ to instill tricks, obedience, and confidence!
Positive reinforcement is not the same thing as ‘positive-only’ training, however.
One is a key piece of operant conditioning and a huge part of any good training program. The latter (positive-only or force-free training) is a training method.
The training method of ‘positive-only’ uses a lot of R+ to reward behaviors.
So does balanced training, actually.
The best trainers use a lot of R+ in their techniques, no matter where they fall on the positive to balanced spectrum (and yes, there is a spectrum! No wonder dog training is so confusing to people).
R+ is not some magical or exclusive gem that only “science-based positive trainers” use and live by. All good trainers use positive reinforcement whether they market themselves as ‘force-free’ or ‘balanced’.
Catch our drift, yet? ‘Science-based’ has been diluted to a marketing term in this case, and as a truly science-based blog, that makes us uncomfortable!
To better understand how canine learning science works, and why ‘balanced’ training is not abusive or inhumane as some people may have led you to believe, here is a little lesson for you!
There are four quadrants of operant conditioning, and people (including ‘professionals’) misunderstand them often. We get it, these can be confusing. BUT, in the interest of science, we’re going to dig in!
Here they are in layman’s terms!
Dictionary, for the purpose of understanding the four quadrants of operant conditioning in dog training:
POSITIVE = To add something NEGATIVE = To take something away REINFORCEMENT = To increase a behavior PUNISHMENT = To reduce a behavior
Positive Reinforcement (R+) = The dog gets a treat for sitting
Positive Punishment (P+) = The dog is hit in the face for barking
Negative Reinforcement (R-) = A barrier is removed when the dog waits calmly to go outside
Negative Punishment (P-) = Freedom is removed so the dog can’t run away
R+ should always be used to reward and encourage the repetition of all new skills!
This includes the obedience commands sit, down, wait, leave it, come, heel and place.
However, all dogs, even “good” ones, do things they shouldn’t do.
That includes pulling, barking, lunging, bolting out the door, chasing cats, stealing food, jumping the fence, and running away.
As a Great Dane owner, you have likely experienced some of this!
Many of these things are unsafe and even life-threatening, however, they are all normal dog behaviors!
The first step to combat this is, of course, using R+ to train the dog on what they should be doing instead. You cannot combat shenanigans unless you are willing to teach the dog with rewards, fun, praise and play what it should know!
Pulling: teach heel with high-value treats Stealing: teach “leave-it” with a toy and some kibble Door Dashing: teach the dog to turn away from open doors
Despite this training, however, many dogs will still unsafely bolt out a door, jump on somebody, pull on the lead after a squirrel, or blow off a recall…no matter how many treats you offer.
You know, because…DOGS are DOGS and they are going to do doggie things!
Did we mention this other scientific tidbit? For many dogs, chasing a squirrel or experiencing the freedom offered by door dashing is infinitely MORE rewarding than any treat you can offer.
This leaves all dog lovers, even those who believe ONLY using ‘R+’, with two options to fix the problem:
a. Negative Punishment: Remove choice, freedom, and access to things as a means to decrease something the dog does or is doing. This is essentially “management” to prevent behaviors and may need to be implemented for the life of the dog.
AND / OR
b. Positive Punishment: Add a correction (NO!) so the dog understands they cannot do something. A correction could be anything from a simple ‘ah ah’ to flat out hitting the dog in the face.
Not all corrections have to be painful or abusive. If the bank give you a $35 fine (bummer!) for bouncing a check, they’ve used positive punishment. It didn’t hurt you, but it will make you think twice about forgetting to balance your checkbook again!
Punishment abounds in dog training whether people admit it or not. Here are some examples:
Keeping a dog on a tether in a fenced yard because they escape (negative punishment)
Putting a dog behind a gate because they jump on guests (negative punishment)
A no-pull harness pulls the dog to the side if they lunge forward (positive punishment)
Science-based fact: even ‘positive only’ and ‘force free’ people use punishment in their training. This includes the use of training tools that punish and reduce behaviors, despite their promotion that ‘all punishment is abusive‘. ?
Another interesting science-based fact: modern E-Collar use relies primarily on negative reinforcement to reward and strengthen behaviors. Yay science!
Good, thoughtful balanced E-Collar trainers rarely use their E-Collar for corrections (“positive punishment“). If they do, it’s most often as communication to immediately stop a dangerous or unsafe behavior in dogs that know what they should be doing instead.
Unlike traditional punishment, this is one correction that a properly conditioned and trained dog knows how to respond to and control!
There is nothing wrong with thoughtfully implemented corrections, including behavior management.
Run from any “professional” trainer who tells you that all “balanced” professionals abuse, hurt and punish animals all day. This is misguided, uneducated, and inflammatory language.
Run further if a professional will claim to “never use punishment, corrections, or ‘negative reinforcement’ of any kind“. That is a clear sign that they don’t actually understand science or how tools and techniques, including the tools that they use, actually work.
Run just as far if the details they share indicate that you should shock, choke, kick, alpha-roll or hit to treat your dog’s reactivity. Remember, extremes are bad news!
Dogs have no clue why they are always on a long leash or never get to go on walks.
Isolation, physical restraint, and restrictions are sometimes necessary, but they are not actually clear or fair communication when you really search and start to think about it.
Strict behavioral management in the name of ‘errorless learning’ is the basis of ‘force-free’ training programs. Training dogs is so much more complicated than just ‘R+’, as you can see.
The marketing of “force-free” dog training and its overwhelming reliance on management to avoid corrections can be just as inhumane and unfair to a dog as harsh and punitive shock punishments.
It’s time we talk about that, folks!!!!
Good trainers will recognize that it requires skill to thoughtfully manage dog behavior, and will make the most ethical and humane choice for a dog between management and fair corrections.
In other words, while behavior management is an important piece of the training puzzle, there are times when it’s more humane, ethical, and fair to use a correction (and communicate, fully) than it is to rely on confinement and restrictions.
For example, just because a dolphin in captivity can be taught using ‘R+ only’, it doesn’t mean that keeping the dolphin in strict captivity is fair.
A captive marine animal cannot exhibit natural behaviors such as hunting and freely swimming long distances. These are behaviors for which “R+” on its own would be wildly ineffective in reducing.
These natural behaviors don’t have to be reduced because the animal is too confined to do them in the first place. It’s easy to avoid mistakes that happen with natural behavior when you don’t have the opportunity to act naturally in the first place.
Millions of dogs are living the life of the captive dolphin because so many owners and dog professionals market the misguided idea that you should just further manage (restrict) your dog instead of correcting and communicating with them. It’s devastating.
We are seeing an entirely new decade of methodology that believes pets must be babied and spoiled and never told ‘NO’.
Many of these dogs are not going on walks, cannot be safely off-leash, have to be in a crate when guests come over, are not trusted around an open front door, have to be gated away from the kitchen and definitely do not get to go on so much as a picnic with their owner.
We are seeing endemic levels of frustration-based anxiety and reactivity that have never been seen before in pet dogs.
We think there is a problem here, and what’s ironic is that it takes behavior science (yes, science!) to fix it. When we are working with our dogs, it’s important to give them the information they need to make the right decisions. That means saying a LOT of ‘YES’ and also being ok with saying ‘NO’!
Thoughtfully balanced training and e-collar use are, you guessed it, based on science. You can, in fact, say NO and hold your pet accountable without hurting, scaring, or abusing them.
Myth #5: E-Collar training will make your dog aggressive
This goes with our science-based training information above.
Aggression typically has roots in the following things: genetics, hormones, habit, poor socialization, past experiences, frustration, and fear.
You can cause frustration and fear in a dog by alpha rolling them. You can also cause it by shocking or punishing your dog for reacting, especially without addressing the underlying root cause. You can even cause aggressive reactivity with poor leash handling, even if the dog is in a ‘harness’ and being fed piles of treats.
Incorrect training of all types can cause aggression, modern positive E-Collar methods does not.
Myth #6: E-Collars are for lazy people
Balanced training using an E-Collar requires more time, more diligence, more educated ownership, and more attention to detail than people seem to be aware of.
There is no such thing as a good, fair, humane, or truly effective training program that is “quick and easy”.
Taking a dog off-leash, understanding dog interactions, training the dog what the language of their E-Collar means, using lots of praise, play, rewards, treats, freedom and toys, and giving a dog enrichment, opportunities, and experiences that most dogs never experience?
We think that is far from lazy. Don’t fall for the negative marketing!
Why should I use an E-Collar?
We believe that all Great Danes should be E-Collar trained because it’s the most humane way to remove the reliance on physical restraints (including head collars, harnesses, and collars) that can cause harm, frustration, injury, and damage.
Giant breed dogs are strong and powerful; if you are relying solely on your ability to physically overpower and restrain your dog with some kind of physical device such as a collar or harness, you are setting both you and your dog up for failure.
Off-leash freedom is just one benefit; having an amazing relationship with your dog and being able to control your giant anywhere at any time, even on a flat collar alone, are key reasons to choose modern, positive balanced low-stim E-Collar training.
When your dog understands what is expected of them, and what they can and cannot do, you’ll be giving them a precious gift that will help them thrive.
You can train your dog to walk politely on a leash using an E-Collar or a humane Herm Sprenger prong collar. Leash walking can be a tough skill to work on when your Dane can overpower you without even trying!
These tools will give you a gentle and effective way to communicate so that actual living and enjoying every moment of life can begin.
How long does it take to train with an E-Collar?
It depends on how good of a trainer you are, and how much of a foundation you’ve already installed using positive training techniques.
A dog that has 60% recall can be safely off-leash with 100% recall in their E-Collar within weeks, following the positive conditioning process.
A dog that is wild, frustrated, lunging, destructive, shut down, anxious, and even aggressive will require more time. We recommend working with a highly qualified positive-balanced trainer to address the root cause of these behaviors.
How do you train with an E-Collar?
When you teach your dog with an E-Collar, you start by using positive R+ training to teach basic commands such as sit, down, leave it, place and COME!
Then you find your dog’s “working-level”. This is the lowest level of stimulation that they respond to.
Most dogs are responsive and enthusiastic to learn on a Mini-Educator at between a level 3 and 7. Humans typically cannot even feel the same sensation until the remote has been dialed up to a level 12 or even 20.
They always report surprise that the stimulation, once they do feel it, is both nearly imperceptible and non-aversive!
This response is paired with treats, so the dog learns that when they feel that, good things happen.
Through a process of conditioning from that point forward, the dog learns to control when the stimulation is on or off and learns that they can turn it off themselves.
By using the continuous button instead of the tap button, the stimulation can then be applied as a constant sensation paired with a command such as ‘come’, and then immediately removed when the dog begins to recall.
This is also known as ‘negative reinforcement’ and is a very simple and rewarding ‘pressure on, pressure off’ communication that mirrors leash pressure, just without the leash.
This allows you to communicate with your dog by ‘touching’ them, which can be insanely helpful for deaf dogs, dogs with ‘selective hearing’ or when you are in noisy environments such as the beach.
Higher levels are used in higher-distraction environments, just like your friend might have to speak louder to communicate with you in a noisy bar vs. when you are at home. Higher levels aren’t necessarily more aversive!
The stimulation from a modern E-Collar replaces prong, head halter, long line and harness pressure so that you and your pet can enjoy safe movement free of restraint.
Does this gentle simulation annoy the dog? Sure. That’s one reason it works. Just like your ringing cell phone makes you pick it up and answer. The timer on your oven makes you get up and take the cookies out. Your pants getting too tight makes you undo the button. All of these activities are first annoying and second, inherently rewarding!
Pressure does not have to hurt or be painful to be effective at changing your behavior.
Is Larry Krohn a good dog trainer?
Larry Krohn is our recommendation for learning about positive E-Collar dog training.
You can watch some of our favorite videos from his YouTube channel below! YouTube is a great resource for both good and bad methods, so here are some trainer channels that we do and don’t recommend as well.
NO: Jeff Gellman (too much compulsion and flooding) Cesar Milan (outdated intimidation ‘dominance’ method) Most franchise-based trainer companies (unreliable, tend to be heavily punishment-based)
What kind of E-Collar does Larry Krohn use?
Larry Krohn uses and recommends the same collars that we do, by Educator technologies! You can purchase them from us below, with free U.S. Shipping and email support during training.
When it comes to using an e collar on your dog, there is a right and wrong way to do it.
Do you feel like giving up using e collars to train your dog? Is it just not working. Well, we have one last thing for you to try before you call it quits with your training.
Pet owners who gear up to use a training collar often find themselves frustrated, stating that their training goals aren’t going as planned.
Improper placement of the e collar is one of the BIGGEST problems with your dogs training. A proper fit on your dog’s neck should be the FIRST STEP in e collar training.
You seem to think ‘I have no idea if this thing is working’ often
If you notice any of these problems- you might have missed an important e collar detail: proper contact and a snug fit.
HOW DO I MAKE SURE THAT THE COLLAR FITS MY DOG?
The way that e collar dog training works is from the communication between the remote and the points that rest on your Great Dane’s skin.
When you push the button on the remote, you should rely on your dog’s collar to send stimulation to their skin, alerting them that you are attempting to communicate with them.
If these contacts do not fit snugly on your dog’s neck, they will not send proper stimulation, or any at all for that matter.
Even if just one of the contact points touches your dog’s neck, but not both, your dog will receive NO sign or indication from the collar.
Therefore, if you do not make sure that the collar is extremely snug on your dog, making contact with its skin and not just it’s hair, it will feel ABSOLUTELY NOTHING at all.
CONTACT POINTS ON YOUR GREAT DANE’S SKIN
Contact points are the two metal pieces that come in touch with your Great Dane’s skin when you are using the e collar.
They should fit snug on your dog’s neck, right behind their ears.
You will want to make sure that these contact points have direct contact with your Great Dane’s skin and not just their fur.
If they do not have direct and physical touch to the skin, your dog will not feel the stimulation and it will be as if you never even pushed the button on the remote.
MY DOG IS YELPING WHEN WEARING ITS COLLAR
If you notice that your Great Dane is yelping when wearing the e collar, you should question the position in which you have the collar.
If your dog leans downward, for example, it creates space between the collar and the neck. But when it leans back up right, the position of the collar is altered.
Therefore, when using a level, let’s say 20, your dog will not feel the stim at all while leaning downward, but will be taken completely off guard when leaning upward.
The yelping is probably a result of incorrect position of the collar: a complete surprise at the sudden sensation upon finally feeling the point.
MY DOG HAS PRESSURE SORES UNDERNEATH ITS FUR / ON ITS NECK
If you notice your dog has developed pressure sores, it is likely from the e collar being too loose on their neck or you are wearing the wrong points.
PROPERLY FIT E COLLARS WILL NOT CREATE IRRITATION
As we stated before, the points must have direct contact with the skin and feel almost uncomfortably (to you) tight in order for proper stimulation to be felt.
A loose fit will cause the metal pieces to slide around on your dog’s neck. If the collar constantly rubs through your dog’s coat and hair- it can cause extreme skin irritation.
Work to tighten your collar strap until you can just fit two fingers underneath of the collar strap and the neck.
The collar should feel very tight and have no ‘wiggle room’.
ARE YOU USING THE RIGHT LENGTH OF CONTACT POINT?
There are different lengths of points which should be chosen wisely for good contact on skin.
For example: Short-haired dogs will need the shortest points so that the metal has direct contact with their skin.
On the other hand, long-haired dogs will need longer metal pieces to make sure the stim is not being lost in all of the fur.
Great Danes have very short / thin hair, and therefore usually the point that works best for them is the ¼ inch.
The next size up would be the ½ inch and so on. The longest point is usually no longer than one inch in length and would be for a pet with long hair, whereas the shortest contact points are 1/4 inch.
Comfort Pads
Comfort pads can be the answer to a lot of problems. Comfort pads are small, rubber discs that go in-between the points and your Great Dane’s body.
This provides a buffer between the metal piece and your dog’s body. It also helps with making sure the contact points do not get lost in all of the fur (as we discussed before).
If you have a pup with very sensitive skin, a short coat, or you are just trying to avoid any irritation, comfort pads may be the way to go.
WHERE DOES THE E COLLAR GO ON MY DOGS NECK?
The e collar should be positioned with the strap snug around your dog’s head, right behind their ears.
You will want to make sure that the contact points have direct contact with your dog’s skin and not just their fur.
If they do not have direct contact, your Great Dane will not feel the stimulation and it will be as if you never even pushed the button on the remote.
The best place to keep the collar is on it’s head, right behind one of the ears. If the collar hangs in the front of the neck, skin can become easily irritated.
SHOULD MY GREAT DANE WEAR THE COLLAR ALL THE TIME?
The answer to this question is usually no. You should only put the e collar on your Great Dane when you are actively training them or if they are in a situation where they may need a communication (i.e. if they are about to run into the street) or you’d like them to recall.
You should remove the collar every few hours to ensure that your dog’s skin does not become irritated.
It is also a good idea to remove the collar when your dog is eating or drinking so that they do not get food or water on the contact points (which can cause irritation) and so that they can have full range of their body.
THE FINAL STEP
After you have double-checked that the contact points are properly fitted that the strap is snug but not too tight, and that you are using the correct length of contact point- it’s time to put the e collar on your dog and start training!
Check out our guide for more detail on how to begin working with an e collar!
Need help with modern e collar training? Check out our guide.
My road to the e collar was definitely not clear cut: I had absolutely no idea how to use an e collar. Heck, I didn’t even know what an e collar was.
What I did know was that I had two Great Dane puppies who were 8 weeks old. They were supposed to be sweet, charming, and adorable. But instead, all they were doing was ripping up my carpet, eating my bedroom walls, peeing EVERYWHERE, and destroying my house.
Meet Banks and Roo:
Yes- I ripped out my carpet within a few months and opted for Pergo (Thanks Home Depot!)
To say I had a bad day was an understatement.
These puppies were quickly turning into horses. What the heck was I going to do with them when they were in complete control over me- and not the other way around.
First, my sweet female Great Dane, named Banks, decided to eat my carpet.
She thought it was fun.
‘Other dogs don’t do this’, I thought. Dog training is supposed to be about sitting, laying, basic things- everyday life. Not how to stop eating carpet!
I was horrified.
My Immediate and Irrational Use of a Shock Collar
In my horror, I immediately did what many, many dog owners do.
I resorted to Amazon.
‘Training collar’, ‘Electronic Collars’, ‘Shock Collar‘- I begin frantically tapping faster than my fingers could even type.
Before I could barely throw away the bubble wrap, the collar was on the dog’s neck.
‘Zap!’ I thought as I begin tapping and pushed the button.
The dogs looked at me with a hurt and betrayed look in their eyes. They had no idea what they did wrong, but they knew mommy was mad. And that’s all that mattered to them.
Banksy curled under my legs, even though I wanted her to sit. Roo ran upstairs, even though in my mind he was going to lay down.
Where was their perfect behavior?
Learning that Shock Collars are NOT It
I started to sweat. My dog was stressing. I was stressing.
My dog was not giving me any behavior or indication that they were about to listen… WHY! WHY. What is it going to take to get these dogs to drop the undesirable behavior and actually start to listen?
The Reality Sinks In
As my dog sat and stared at me, I stop tapping the handheld remote.
This animal in front of me has absolutely NO idea what I’m saying- I think.
How do I speak ‘dog’? Frantic panic sets in. I looked down at the shock collar. Well, I know electric shock collars are NOT working. Positive reinforcement, by itself, is NOT working. I’m losing control, and it’s happening fast.
With this feeling of losing control of my dogs behavior…. I start to search for answers.
In my search- I realized that the shock collar didn’t work because it wasn’t paired with anything else.
I didn’t know how to use the collar, when to use it, or what it was for.
To them, the shock collar was just a terrible sensation on their neck with absolutely NO meaning. My dog’s sensitivity was more important to me than anything else.
I had to find a better training program, and I had to do it quickly!
Discovering The E Collar Training Process
Back to the drawing board, I needed to find something my dogs would actually respond to.
I had to get creative.
The answer?
Although it took months to find, I found what works best for me and my dogs: combination of an e collar and positive reinforcement.
This is called balanced training, and you can find many professional dog training companies or an individual trainer who are willing to help you through balanced training for your dog.
I began to research e collar training and discovered that the remote training collar (shock collar) that I had purchased was VERY different than an e collar.
I had ZERO idea that there was a difference- but the difference in collars was MONUMENTAL.
It all started to make sense, and I knew it was right for both my dogs and for me.
What is an Electronic Collar?
An e collar is a remote training collar that does NOT use shock.
Additionally, unlike the use of a shock collar, trainers who use an e collar encourage you to use the collar CORRECTLY.
I noticed an immediate shift in training discussions around e collar dog training vs. shock collar dog training.
More on that soon, but first: WHAT IS IT AND WHY IS IT SO DIFFERENT?
WHAT IS INSIDE OF AN E COLLAR?
The e collar has a receiver and a transmitter.
The receiver is the portion of the e collar that goes on your dog’s neck, and the transmitter is the handheld device that you, the owner or trainer, will use.
Some e collars have one button while others may have multiple buttons for different stimulation types (we’ll get to that in a bit).
THE RECEIVER
The receiver has two main parts: the prongs and the contact points.
THE PRONGS
The prongs are what touch your dog’s skin and deliver the stimulation. The contact points are what make contact with your dog’s skin.
There are three different types of e collar prongs on these training collars: short, medium, and long.
SHORT PRONGS: These are best for dogs with short coats because they make direct contact with the skin.
MEDIUM PRONGS: These are best for dogs with medium-length coats because they still make direct contact with the skin but are not as likely to irritate.
LONG PRONGS: These are best for dogs with long coats because they make indirect contact from the contact points with the skin and are less likely to irritate.
ELECTRIC STIMULATION: Most importantly, the receiver delivers the electric stimulation to your dog. Stimulation is NOT the same as shock, which was in the original collars I had bought for my dogs.
The stimulation is a very low-level electrical impulse that feels similar to a static shock that you would feel if you touched something and then touched someone else.
The sensation is not painful, but it is noticeable.
A VARIETY OF LEVELS IN YOUR DOG COLLAR (1-100)
Some e collars have multiple levels of stimulation while others only have one. (You should look for remote training collars that offer 100 levels of stimulation). The level in which one dog might feel the stimulation differs from dog to dog. One dog might feel the stimulation at a level 4, whereas another dog might feel the stimulation at a level 20. This is called the working level of a dog and is one reason why it is important that your collar offers so many varying levels.
The level of stimulation that you use is dependent on your dog’s size, age, and sensitivity.
THE TRANSMITTER OTHERWISE KNOWN AS THE HANDHELD REMOTE
The transmitter is the handheld device that you will use to deliver the electric stimulation to your dog.
As I mentioned before, some transmitters have one button while others may have multiple.
The e collar technology device has a different amount of buttons, depending on which unit you purchase.
Typically- your e collar device will have a stimulation button, a noise / beep button, and a ‘vibrate’ button.
YOUR COLLAR HAS A STIMULATION BUTTON
The stimulation button is, by far, the most talked about button by owners and ethical trainers in dog training.
Stimulation (e stim) is the same exact unit found in a ‘tens’ machine at the chiropractor. In other words, it’s actually HEALTHY for your dogs neck!
Why not receive some healthy boosts to your neck WHILE training? It all made sense to me.
YOUR COLLAR HAS A VIBRATE BUTTON
The vibrate button on the transmitter is used to deliver a ‘warning’ to your dog before any stimulation is even delivered.
Hypothetically, dog owners believe that the vibrate is a feature that you can “train your dog without ever having to use the stimulation”, somewhat of a ‘warning’.
I, however, have found the vibration MUCH more aversive to getting my dog’s attention than typical stim e collar use.
Every dog’s behaviors are different, and while some dogs might thrive with the use of the vibrate feature in different situations, the vibrate causes unnecessary stress to my own dogs.
YOUR COLLAR HAS A BEEP / NOSE BUTTON
The beep / noise button on the transmitter is used to deliver a ‘warning’ to your dog before any stimulation is even delivered.
Additionally, the beep can be used to target a specific behavior in your dog. For example, if your dog understands that the beep means you want them to demonstrate the behavior of ‘sit’, then you can use the beep as a marker for that specific behavior.
The beep is also used in e collar training to ‘mark’ a desired behavior. For example, if your dog is running towards you and you want him to stop, you can press the button on the transmitter which will emit a beeping noise, prompting them to sit.
All in all, the buttons mean what YOU want them to mean.
Each behavior of your dog can be depicted with any button: as long as you have given your dog clear instructions and communication as to WHAT that sensation or noise actually means.
If you’d like the beep to mean sit, then train your dog that the beep means sit.
If you want the vibration to mean ‘watch me’, then train your dog that the vibration means ‘watch me’.
The beauty of these devices is that they are versatile and can be used for a variety of different behaviors.
It is simply up to you, as the owner and trainer, to be clear in your communication with your dog surrounding that particular behavior.
E COLLAR FITTING & PLACEMENT
When you are beginning dog training with e collars, one important step that many dog owners forget, is how to fit the collar on your dog.
Trainers will point out that this is one of the MOST important parts of using these collars.
HOW SHOULD PROPERLY FITTED E COLLARS FIT ON MY DOG’S NECK?
The answer is VERY tight!
Uncomfortably tight- in your eyes!
Your dog has hair, and A LOT of it! Remember all of that shedding? YEAH…
That’s a lot of hair.
All that hair can actually act as an insulator between the probes on the collar and your dog’s skin, making the electric stimulation much less effective.
A properly fitted e collar should be so tight that you cannot fit more than ONE FINGER underneath it. That’s it! Just one finger.
You want the probes on the e collar to be touching your dog’s skin at all times in order for the electric current to flow properly.
If you can fit more than one finger under the strap, it is too loose and needs to be adjusted.
You can also use something called comfort pads, underneath the prongs, which helps keep the collar snug and in place.
WHERE SHOULD MY DOGS COLLAR BE PLACED AROUND THEIR NECK?
A professional trainer skilled in using e collars will tell you to place the e collars directly behind your dogs ear, tightly enough that you can only fit one finger in between the strap and your dog’s neck at any point.
We’ve all seen those dogs who have the large, dangling e collar straps- and that is NOT how it should be!
Tight and snug right on the neck of your dog, behind one ear or the other of your dog- is the best place for canine stimulation to happen and where you will find the most success with getting your dog to respond.
HIRING A PROFESSIONAL TRAINER WHO WORKS WITH E COLLARS
Hiring a trainer who has experience using a remote collar, prides themselves in positive reinforcement and is eager to help you work with your dog on correcting behaviors as well as rewarding behaviors is DEFINITELY nothing to be ashamed of.
You want to be able to trust the person you are working with, and if that means finding someone who is experienced and passionate about helping dog owners- then do it!
The best part about finding great trainers in your area, is that they will not only be able to show you how to use the equipment but can also help you troubleshoot any issues you may have along the way.
A good trainer will be able to teach you how to properly fit the collar on your dog, how to effectively use the buttons on the transmitter and can give you tips and tricks for different behaviors that you may want to work on with your dog.
Remote training collars / e collars are a great tool for dog owners- when used correctly. And furthermore, training your dog with the eyes of other people, trainers included, is ALWAYS a positive.
Remember to be clear in your communication with your dog, take the time to find a trainer who can help you if needed and make sure that the collar is fitted snugly and behind your dogs ears!
WHERE TO START USING A REMOTE COLLAR AT HOME?
If you are confident that you’d like to begin using a training collar to work on getting your dog e collar trained, first of all CONGRATULATIONS!
There are some exciting things ahead for both you and your dogs.
STEP 1: WORK WITH YOUR DOG ON BASIC COMMANDS
You absolutely need to train your dogs basic commands before beginning working to get them trained on e collars.
This was one of the major mistakes that I made- and a huge pain point for me and my dogs.
Impulse control- waiting at doors/thresholds, not jumping up on people
Potty training (any animal should be potty trained before beginning higher level commands or being asked to have the ability to learn training with training collars)
Their name- Teaching your dog their name is an ABSOLUTE MUST.
You need to be able to have a clear understanding and communication with your dog before you begin using any type of electronic collar.
STEP 2: FIND YOUR DOG’S WORKING LEVEL
A ‘working level’ is the level of stimulation that your dog will respond to without hesitation.
The goal is NOT to get your dog to yelp or cry out in pain, the goal is to find a level where your dog takes notice and responds accordingly.
This may take some time and you may have to experiment with different levels before you find what works best for your dog.
A good tip is to start at a lower level than you think- it is always easier to go up in levels of stimulation than it is to come back down.
Typically, a normal canine working level is below a level 10.
Begin tapping on the stim button, at a level 1. If you notice that your dog moves any part of it’s neck / shoulder or looks in your direction- STOP TAPPING- you have found its working level.
If you do not notice any sense of them feeling it, do the same thing on level 2. Continue to increase in level until you’ve seen any indication that your pet feels the stim. That is when you have found the working level.
If at ANY time you feel like your dog is in pain- stop all training and lower the stim immediately. E collar training is NOT supposed to cause pain!
STEP 3: INTRODUCE YOUR DOG TO THE E COLLARS BY USING THEIR NAME
Like mentioned, your dog MUST have the ability to know their name.
If they do not respond to their name, back up- and begin working with them to target behavior of gaining eye contact when you say their name.
Otherwise, get ready to teach your dog what the e collar MEANS by using their ability to know and respond to their name.
First, you will want to put the e collar on your dog.
I like to do this while they are eating their kibble or a treat so that they make an association with the collar being put on = good things happening.
Once the e collar is on, you will take a few steps away from your dog and say their name in a happy voice.
When they look at you, immediately press the button on the transmitter (at their working level- the lowest possible level) so that they feel static stimulation on their neck.
Do this a few times until your dog begins to turn their head towards you when you say their name.
This routine training period should be repeated daily for about a week- as your canine buddy learns to associate their name with the e collar stim and also- best of all- with YOUR EYES.
STEP 2: BEGIN WORKING ON A LONG LEASH / LEAD WITH YOUR DOG
Using a long lead to teach your canine positive learned behaviors with a leash and electronic training collars is a huge skill.
Using a long lead, find a safe area like your backyard (away from other dogs).
Attach the long lead to your dogs e collar- making sure that there is plenty of room for your dog to walk around on the lead.
You should be able to feel the leash moving with your dog as they move.
I like to use a six-foot lead for this so that I have some room to work, but you can start with whatever length / distance you find most comfortable.
PLAYING THE ‘HOT AND COLD’ GAME
Begin holding down the continuous stim (at their working level and at the same time, call your dogs name from a distance and say ‘come’.
If your dog follows this command and immediately comes towards you, start dropping the stim level lower (going ‘colder’).
If they do NOT follow this command, begin to slowly increase the stim (going ‘hotter’) until your dog begins lowering the distance between you and them.
As soon as their body moves CLOSER in distance towards you (an act that they are beginning to follow the ‘come’ command, you should say ‘YES’ and begin lowering (colder).
Continue this pattern until your dog is coming towards you quickly, at which point you can start to decrease the length of the leash.
I like to do this training in baby steps- so if my dog is on a six-foot lead, I will lower it down to a five-foot lead and work with them there for a few days before going down to a four-foot lead, and so forth.
The goal is for your dog to be able to respond quickly on a verbal command with little to no stim needed (from you).
This will take some time and patience, but it is SO worth it in the end!
LEASH TRAINING YOUR DOG USING TRAINING COLLARS
The great thing about using e collars for leash training is that you can get your dog used to the feel of the collar around their neck as well as begin working on getting them used to wearing a leash- all while staying in the safety and comfort of your own home!
Start by putting the e collar on your dog and attaching the leash or long slip lead. This period of training works best with a long leash- here are a few of my favorites:
I like to do this while they are eating their kibble or a treat so that they make an association with the collar being put on = good things happening.
Once the e collar is on and the leash is attached, you will begin training them to walk on leash with their learned behaviors of the e collar.
Allow your Great Dane to have a loose leash- leash tension is a sign of your pet pulling, and will want to tackle that with training.
Target behavior of walking calmly next to your side by continuing to play the ‘hot and cold’ game with your dog. As your pup walks next to you, if they begin to walk in front of you, dial up/hot, as they walk back into stride next to you, dial down/cold.
This form of communication in training will let your dog know that they are doing what you want them to do- without having to use any physical corrections.
Remember, the goal is for your dog to be able to walk on a loose leash by your side with little to no stim needed from you!
STEP 3: DEVELOP A FOOD REWARD SYSTEM
Balanced training means to not only use corrections but also to reward your dog when they are doing what you want them to do.
I like to keep things simple and use kibble for rewards during training sessions, but not ALL the time. Using kibble as your ONLY means of reward has the POSSIBILITY of your dog beginning to rely on the yummy item, rather than falling back onto their obedience training.
When using treats, a bag can be a sweet way to maintain control over the leash and dog, while also keeping something yummy around your waist.
That does NOT mean that you should only reward your dog sometimes!
Rewards come in MANY different forms such as :
Treats
Kibble
Praise
Verbal commands followed by an energetic hug or excited ‘good job’
An excited pet
Simply taking a break to rest, sit and lather attention on your pup
You can (and should) use a combination of ALL these forms of rewards during your dog’s training! This will help to keep things fun and interesting for both you AND your pup!
Remember, the goal is to find what motivates YOUR dog, mix things up with every command / reward, and to make training fun!
THE PROCESS TAKES PATIENCE AND PERSISTENCE
I’ve come a LONG way in my training process with my pups.
I had to really search for what worked best for us, and that took time, patience and consistency.
But it was SO worth it in the end!
I hope this guide has helped you to learn a little bit more about e collars and how to use them during your dog’s training journey! If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to check out our e collar training guide! I love hearing from you all!
Happy Training! 🙂
Need help with modern e collar training? Check out our guide.
