Category: Training

  • 5 Big Dog Myths You Need to Know About

    5 Big Dog Myths You Need to Know About

    The large and giant breed dog communities are a literal stew of opinions, advice and ideas.

    Heavy-handed dog training, resting after meals, and ‘Euro’ dogs are just some of the common big dog myths that I want to cover today!

    Come sort through the stew with us!

    cute pictures great danes

    You Must Rest Your Big Dog Before & After Meals

    You’ve definitely heard this one.

    “You MUST rest your dog before and after meals so they don’t bloat!”

    You and your dog may be looking at a schedule like this:

    AM Walk
    Rest
    Food
    Rest
    PM Walk
    Rest
    Food
    Rest
    Bed

    That’s a lot of um…shall we say, sitting?

    Bloat is a painful, dangerous, and DEADLY condition that plagues large and giant breed dogs. Great Danes tend to be the most susceptible! Bloat is scary, and ‘preventatives’ make us feel better about it.

    Let’s bust this myth. Studies have found absolutely NO correlation between BLOAT and EXERCISE!

    Not only that, but most dogs who bloat do so while resting and on an empty stomach.

    Bloat incidence has increased by 1500% in the last 30+ years, despite this common ‘advice’ to rest dogs before and after meals.

    It’s time to let go of this old, unsubstantiated old wives’ tale. Rest your dog if it makes you feel better, but don’t encourage your dog to spend its entire life sitting around. If your dog is going to bloat, it won’t matter if they are moving or being a couch potato.

    Don’t freak out. There are other science-backed ways to reduce bloat risk.

    photograph of a woman playing with her dog

    Big Dogs Have a Short Lifespan

    You’re walking down the street with your Great Dane by your side when you are stopped by somebody gushing over how beautiful your dog is.

    (Because it’s true, your dog is gorgeous).

    Then she says “I just could never own one. They don’t live long”.

    STOP. IT.

    We are so over this myth. Sure, large and giant breed dogs are plagued by a number of health problems that shorten their life span…but it doesn’t mean that all large and giant breed dogs will be dead by age 7.

    A solid majority of these dogs come from breeders who are NOT actively seeking to better the breed.

    Minimal health testing, questionable pedigrees, and profit-driven practices are literally ruining these dogs and their genetics for generations to come.

    If you want a robust, long-lived large or giant breed dog, choose an ethical, reputable breeder who is beyond diligent with the pedigree and actively seeks to eliminate common ‘early death’ problems.

    This includes heart failure, bloat, fearful temperaments, poor structure, cancer, and arthritis which all have a genetic link.

    man holding a husky dog while standing outside in winter

    Everything ‘EURO’ Dogs

    “He’s not overweight, he’s EURO”

    Buckle up, this is a fun one!

    Any dog being labeled as ‘EURO’ is a dog that is being labeled with an unregulated marketing term.

    EURO does not necessarily mean ‘EUROPEAN’.


    It’s important to note that actual well-bred European dogs are not, in fact, meant to be larger, stockier, or droopier than American dogs!

    Each Country will have a written standard for its breed. When you compare the legitimate, real written standard for the breed from each individual Country, you will notice that the standards are nearly identical!

    The ‘EURO’ term plagues Great Danes, Mastiff’s, Rottweilers, and Dobermans in particular.

    EURO nearly always just means one thing: out of standard.

    Droopy eyes, blocky heads, and stocky, oversized bodies are considered significant faults in the breed standard for Great Danes in both countries.

    The appeal of a larger, beefier dog with an exotic title (‘Euro’) is popular and persistent, however.

    It’s fine to wish for a slightly larger dog, but NEVER at the expense of the health, comfort, and robust and proven genetics of the breed.

    Want to know more about the TRUTH behind ‘Euro’ dogs? Read HERE.

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    Giant Dogs need Heavy-Handed Training

    Reality television has taught us that we need to ‘pSSHHhhTTT’, intimidate, pin down, and harshly correct dogs, especially when they are large or giant breeds like Great Dane or St. Bernard.

    People believe that big dogs need bigger shock collars, bigger corrections, and more forceful training methods overall.

    Big dogs CAN and WILL destroy your house and take you for a walk if you don’t train them. Small dogs can try, but they don’t have the mass to make it happen. That’s the only difference.

    It’s NOT that big dogs are more stubborn or defiant! They are just…bigger.

    Being bigger doesn’t justify the use of fear, pain, and harsh punitive training.

    Training must start on day one. With large and giant breed dogs you definitely have to teach ‘off’, ‘heel’, ‘down’, and ‘come’. These things are easy to teach with positive reinforcement!

    We recommend that owners consider taking a class with an AKC ‘Canine Good Citizen’ instructor to learn how to teach, guide (and yes, correct when appropriate) their large and giant breed dogs.


    (Don’t be THIS dog owner!)

    The reality here is that forceful, harsh training methods (including the incorrect use of E-Collars) can lead to fear, anxiety, and aggression.

    Danes and other giant breed dogs are not dumb. They learn the same way that all other dogs do. Applying more ‘force’ just serves our egos, not the dog or the relationships we have with it.

    This is one big dog myth we can put to rest, once and for all.

    Big Dog Myths

    Adult Food Only, Never Puppy Food!

    This common belief is rampant in the large and giant breed dog community.

    For years, many giant breed dogs have been fed adult formula dry dog food from their first solid meal.

    10+ years ago, this was acceptable and recommended because adult formulas were literally the only acceptable option for maintaining slow growth.

    Thankfully, we have science, research, food trials, and updated large-breed puppy foods!

    ‘Adult food only’ is dated and dangerous advice for large and giant breed dogs. They should now be fed an appropriate, science-backed LARGE or GIANT breed PUPPY formula.

    Make sure you choose a science-backed food brand. Boutique foods have not participated in the same level of diligent research and may not be correctly formulated for the growth of your large breed dog! For more information about choosing puppy food for your big dog, read here.

    Knuckling, flat feet, low energy, HOD, or Panosteitis are just some of what you may experience if you choose the wrong food. Many large and giant breed dogs that are fed ‘adult food only’ will also struggle to develop lean, strong muscle and maintain an appropriate weight. Adult foods simply don’t have enough nutrition to support their growth.

    We recommend:

    Check out THE GIANT DOG FOOD PROJECT to compare brands and values.

    What other big dog myths can we bust for you?

    Leave a comment below! We’d love to hear from you, or you can also join our helpful, friendly and open-minded community on Facebook.

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    JOIN OUR COMMUNITY

    Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?

    Join our growing Facebook group!

  • How to Find and Choose the Best Dog Trainer for Your Great Dane

    How to Find and Choose the Best Dog Trainer for Your Great Dane

    It can be stressful to find and choose the best dog trainer for your Great Dane or giant breed dog!

    Training is so important, especially with these big dogs. An untrained, under-socialized giant dog may be destructive and can be a danger to you and to the people around you. Good training starts on day one and never stops; all big dogs should be taught that pulling, lunging, jumping and running away are never acceptable.

    The confusing part, however, is that there are many schools of thought when it comes to how to train dogs and teach them these important skills.

    When it comes to training your Great Dane, you want to be sure that you find and choose the right dog trainer to help you. You want somebody who is thoughtful, educated, up-to-date, humane and driven by real behavior science!

    We are here today with some GREAT info, including our honest take on different training methods, tools and more.

    Best Dog Trainer

    Dog Training Methodologies

    Many trainers use methods that are unfair to dogs, ineffective, frustrating, or punitive.

    It doesn’t matter if they label themselves ‘positive’, ‘balanced’, or ‘natural’, you’re going to run into people who are not operating as ethically or humanely as they should.

    The primary core training methods run a spectrum and include:

    Force Free / Purely Positive

    Balanced

    Natural / Dominance / Alpha

    Compulsion / Koehler / Old School

    Here are a few tips on how to find and choose a humane dog trainer for your Great Dane!

    Best Dog Trainer
    A merle Great Dane puppy being trained

    Force-Free & Purely Positive Dog Training

    Positive reinforcement and ‘force-free’ dog training seek to utilize treats, praise, and play without corrections to teach all behaviors. This sounds amazing and has its merits, however, this method is also highly restrictive for many dogs.

    In ‘positive-only’ dog training, the use of corrections and most tools is prohibited, leaving dog owners with only one other choice when it comes to reducing unwanted behaviors.

    Restrictions to freedom, movement, and autonomy that often last a lifetime are key principles in this method.

    With all unwanted behaviors, you either have to either correct them or manage them. Management is a form of punishment that can be needlessly restrictive, confusing, and inhumane for some dogs.

    REAL LIFE EXAMPLE:

    In force-free/positive training, if a dog jumps a fence, positive reinforcement (to increase the value of staying in the yard) will be paired with a loss of freedom (to decrease the chance of recurrence). A long leash may be used, and no corrections are allowed. The fence may also be made more secure.

    To put it simply, ‘Force-free’ trainers will only use management and physical restraint, often ongoing, to address unwanted or dangerous behaviors.

    Positive reinforcement itself is wonderful and backed by science; you should always use positive reinforcement to teach new behaviors such as leave it, wait, heel, sit, down, and come.

    When it comes to addressing behaviors such as lunging, barking, running away, or jumping the fence however, you can see how the method of ‘positive-only’ may fall short and can even be dangerous.

    Many extreme force-free and positive-only trainers will adhere to self-made guidelines and refuse to make humane, common sense accommodations for certain dogs.

    Examples include:

    • Refusing to use a gentle, modern E-Collar on a deaf dog for recall
    • Requiring a harness on all dogs, even a 3-legged dog whose body doesn’t fit naturally in one
    • Not allowing the use of bitter apple spray to deter a dog from chewing itself
    • Putting fence jumpers on a restrictive long leash for life instead of considering a wireless fence or E-Collar system
    • Keeping cat-chasers, tire-chasers, jumpers, humpers, barkers, runners, rough players, and chicken killers isolated from freedom, family life, socialization, and the yard to avoid having to use corrections
    • Will prescribe behavioral euthanasia before allowing you to seek a second opinion from a balanced dog trainer

    Force-Free and Purely Positive red flags

    Run from any force-free or positive trainer who shows any of the following red flags:

    • Claims to be ‘science based’ (this is an unregulated marketing term, often contradictory in this context as it is scientifically impossible to ONLY use ‘positive reinforcement’)
    • Spends a lot of time bashing other trainers, tools, and techniques (MAJOR red flag!)
    • Encourages you to always take a long-haul ‘positive-only’ approach, even if doing so seems to be extremely restrictive, confusing, and frustrating to you and your dog
    • Won’t allow you to use any kind of correction, corrective action or appropriate tool, even if the dog is doing something dangerous, damaging, rude, or destructive to himself, to you or to others
    • Encourages you to ignore professional veterinary advice when it comes to things such as nutrition, wound care and medications
    • Relies heavily on front-clip harnesses or head collars (often while still claiming to be ‘force-free’ and ‘science based’)
    • Blindly promotes the idea that all ‘balanced’ training, prong collars, flat collars, and modern E-Collars are ‘aversive’ and ‘abusive’
    • Are unable to make a notable, reliable, lifelong, positive difference in dogs who have difficult unwanted, dangerous or rude behaviors, especially when the end recommendation is to add additional restrictive management or seek behavioral euthanasia
    • The dogs they train are over-excitable, unable to ever be off-leash, anxious/frustrated, and/or have to be managed to prevent jumping, leash reactivity, chasing or otherwise

    If you want to work with a force-free or positive dog trainer, ask lots of questions! There are some amazing positive trainers out there, but you must do your research and avoid the extreme version of this training method.

    3180 black great dane dog

    Balanced Dog Training

    Balanced training means to use positive reinforcement, corrections and management as needed. Balanced training is positive reinforcement training with more options.

    REAL LIFE EXAMPLE:

    In balanced training, if a dog jumps a fence, positive reinforcement (to increase the value of staying in the yard) will be paired with a correction (to decrease the value of jumping out of the yard) or wireless fence system. The fence may also be made more secure.

    Hence the word ‘balance’.

    Like positive-only training, balanced training runs a spectrum from trainers who are mostly positive but utilize spare corrections as needed, to trainers who rely heavily on strict boundaries, routine, structure and corrections.

    This makes it that much more difficult to find an ethical trainer! Ideally, you want to stick with balanced trainers who fall clearly on the ‘positive’ side of things.

    Properly used prong collars and modern E-Collars are NOT abuse. Do not fall for inflammatory marketing from people who don’t know how to use those tools correctly.

    Balanced dog trainers are more likely to choose prong collars and E-Collars, though they may also use head collars at times. The best balanced trainers use a training method that relies heavily on positive reinforcement, and will utilize modern E-Collars to release dogs from constant physical restraint.

    We recommend modern balanced training for all dogs. All large and giant breed dogs should ideally be trained to at least CGC level (Canine Good Citizen) and have excellent off-leash obedience skills using a modern E-Collar.

    Large and giant breed dogs are prone to orthopedic issues. The Modern E-Collar is the only training tool available that unlike a harness or flat collar can cause absolutely no physical damage to your dog’s physical structure, gait, neck or trachea.

    Balanced Dog Trainer Red Flags

    Run from any balanced dog trainer who shows these red flags:

    • Wants to put an E-Collar or Prong collar on your dog so they can use harsh punitive ‘yank and crank’ training methods
    • Uses any training technique that clearly makes your dog fearful, scared, or distressed
    • Tells you to dominant, intimidate, alpha roll, pin, scold, kick, or roughly handle your dog
    • Spends more time saying NO than saying YES
    • Forces your dog into extended down-stay position and may use a shock collar at aversive levels to force compliance
    • Uses penny cans or bags of chains to scare or startle your dog
    • Floods dogs by deliberately exposing them to triggers
    • Quotes Cesar Milan or Jeff Gellman
    • Is constantly tugging, pulling and snapping a slip lead around your dogs neck
    • Doesn’t use treats and/or claims that treats are ‘bribery’
    • Tells you that all bad behavior and reactivity is the result of defiance, dominance or stubbornness
    • Encourages you to ignore veterinary advice related to nutrition
    • The dogs they train appear shut down, fearful, short-tempered, or nervous

    We recommend searching the IACP certified trainer database to find a safe, humane and professional qualified balanced E-Collar trainer for your Great Dane or giant breed dog.

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    Natural/Dominance/Alpha Dog Training

    Alpha dog training (often called ‘Natural’ or ‘Dominance’) is an outdated training method that has very little scientific backing to it.

    This training method was made popular by Cesar Milan, and involves a lot of hovering, intimidations, corrections and forward body language.

    REAL LIFE EXAMPLE:

    In alpha training, if a dog jumps a fence, the dog will be harshly corrected at the fence line with neck jabs and leash pops. Additionally, steps will be taken to ‘lower the dog’s status’ through other forms of intimidation and force.

    ‘Be the Boss’, ‘Be the Alpha’, and ‘Be the Pack Leader’ are common phrases, based on incorrect observations that were made of a captive wolf pack.

    Trainers who subscribe to this method generally believe that treats and positive reinforcement are forms of bribery that should be used sparingly, and that a well trained obedient dog is always in a state of ‘calm submission’. For many dogs, ‘calm submission’ is actually a form of behavior suppression, fear and anxiety.

    Additionally, they believe that behavior problems are easily solved by putting the dog into a lower pack position, and may teach you to use ‘woo’ training techniques such as:

    • Walking through doors before your dog
    • Keeping your dogs eye level below yours
    • Eating food first, in front of your dog before serving your dog his food
    • Pretending to eat your dogs food
    • Biting your dogs ear or neck
    • Neck jabs (‘Alpha dog corrections’)

    Alpha theory is considered laughable in the science of modern dog behavior.

    Alpha Dog Training Red Flags

    Run from any ‘alpha’, ‘natural’ or ‘dominance’ dog trainer who:

    • Says that aggression is the result of a lack of leadership
    • Tells you to stick your hands in your dogs food bowl to show them that you are ‘the boss’
    • Uses intimidation to make your dog appear ‘calm and submissive’
    • Tells you to choke, jab, neck jab, scruff, shake, hit, kick or roughly handle your dog or puppy
    • Shows you how to use an ‘alpha roll’ to pin your dog down until they give up
    • Uses physical pressure and force to keep your dog in a sit, down or stay
    • Says ‘PSSHhhhhTTTTT’
    • Uses a lot of leash pops, scolding and harsh corrections
    • Uses flooding techniques until your dog ‘gives up’ and is no longer ‘dominant’
    • Shows ‘quick fix’ videos
    • Tells you to ignore the advice of your veterinarian

    Dog training techniques that rely on outdated notions of being the “alpha” and use confusing, punitive tactics may harm your bond with your dog.

    Best Dog Trainer

    Compulsion / Koehler / Old School Dog Training

    Finally, this method of dog training goes back to the days where a lot of compulsion and force was used.

    REAL LIFE EXAMPLE:

    In compulsion training, if a dog jumps a fence, the dog will be harshly corrected at the fence line, and the use of a livestock hot wire may be prescribed. The dog may also then be put on a leash or chain (not unlike we see in ‘force-free’ training).

    A compulsion dog trainer will teach ‘sit’ by pushing down on the dog’s rear end until they submit by sitting. They will teach ‘heel’ by using pressure into a slip lead to force the dog by their side.

    Forced compliance is the name of the game with this method. The use of slip leads and choke chains are common. You are most likely to happen upon Koehler method trainers in the hunting dog community or when seeking the help of trainers that have ’30 years of experience’.

    Compulsion Trainer Red Flags

    • Tells you that they can fix all behavior problems quickly
    • Uses a slip lead or chain to pop, pull, tug, and move your dog around
    • May keep a sharp tack in one hand and use it to pinch the ear when forcing compliance
    • Doesn’t want you to talk to your dog or show affection
    • Encourages the use of physical handling and manipulation
    • Implies that modern dog training and ‘positive reinforcement’ is a scam
    • Has dogs that appear robotically obedient and that may lack enthusiasm and spark
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    How to find a trainer for your Great Dane

    We highly recommend hiring a modern balanced dog trainer who uses a lot of positive reinforcement.

    This type of trainer will use management to avoid needless punishment, but they’re not afraid to use appropriate corrections when necessary. Balanced dog training avoids the extremes, which can be harmful and frustrating to your pet.

    A qualified balanced trainer will also show you how to humanely and properly use a modern E-Collar for off-leash training, which is the necessary to protect your dogs orthopedic health.

    We recommend searching the IACP database for a humane, positive balanced trainer in your area.

    Questions to ask your dog trainer

    Here are some questions to ask potential trainers:

    • What happens when my dog does something right?
    • When my dog does something wrong, what do you do?
    • Can you tell me about the tools you often recommend, how they work and why you use them?
    • Are you able to share legitimate references with me?
    • What are your goals for the dogs you train?
    • Do you offer CGC testing, scent work, Snake Avoidance, Fitpaws or any other enrichment classes?
    Best Dog Trainer

    Great Dane training should be fun!

    When it comes to finding a trainer for your Great Dane, be sure to do your research.

    There are a lot of trainers and franchise training companies out there who claim to be experts, but not all of them will be a good fit for you and your dog.

    If you have questions about balanced dog training, E-Collars, prong collars, or more we are here for you!

  • My Review of the Gentle Lead Head Harness

    My Review of the Gentle Lead Head Harness

    Pet parents, of course, LOVE the word ‘gentle’. I mean- who wouldn’t? As a Great Dane owner, I’m always looking for new ways to train my dogs, and that’s what brought about this review of the Gentle Lead Head Harness.

    Everyday walks are supposed to be fun and humane! Dog owners are supposed to be kind, ethical and patient. Every training tool is supposed to be safe, effective and gentle.

    It’s no wonder that the Gentle Leader head harness is so popular; we can see from a quick search on social media that it is very effective at stopping dogs from pulling.

    Gentle Lead

    Is a Gentle Leader Head Harness Actually Gentle?

    But there’s one giant elephant in the room that no one likes to talk about…

    I don’t believe that a Gentle Leader is gentle…at ALL.

    I purchased a Gentle Leader Headcollar to see what all the hype was about. Many Great Dane owners swear that it immediately transformed their pulling, lunging, wild dog into one they could easily and safely walk.

    That’s when I found the mess that Gentle Leader is hiding behind their ‘gentle’ marketing scheme.

    Follow along as I prepare my 3-year-old Great Dane, Banks, for her walk with the Gentle Leader Head Collar. I’ll explain EVERYTHING…

    I chose to purchase the Petsafe brand Gentle Leader Head Collar because it is extremely popular with over 50,000 reviews on Amazon and almost a complete 5 star rating.

    It stated that it came with a training dvd, but mine did not. My order only had the Petsafe Gentle Leader – no training DVD

    🙁 womp womp.

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    Myth: The Gentle Leader Head Collar Will Solve All of Your Problems

    Red flag.

    You will not and should not be given any promises of a ‘new dog’ after using ANY tool. The Gentle Leader is marketed as a fast, gentle way to transform your pet.

    The Petsafe brand itself states that you will be able to fix poor leash manners and discourage excessive jumping or lunging.

    10 Dog Jumping Fence Solutions That Will Solve Your Fence Jumping Problems
    How to Stop a Great Dane Jumping Up
    Great Dane Fail: Off-Leash & Out of Control

    Gentle Lead

    Petsafe brand also states that there is “NO MORE COUGHING AND CHOKING: A padded neoprene nose loop puts pressure on the back of the neck instead of your dog’s throat, which prevents choking and gagging”.

    The directions say to, “use the adjustable nose loop and quick-snap neck strap to properly fit the head collar on your furry friend in minutes.”

    Well, let’s get started.

    I’ve never been one to believe in training dogs in ‘minutes’, but miracles are miracles, right? And who isn’t down for an easy leashed walk with their canine companion.

    Gentle Lead

    Following the Gentle Leader Head Collar Directions

    I am no no scientist, but I nearly needed to be one in order to follow the directions that Gentle Leader provided. Nonetheless, I was VERY determined to follow them step by step in order to make sure I really used this head halter correctly.

    Let’s dive in.

    Step 1: Put the Head Collar around the neck

    My very well mannered, 3 year old Great Dane stared at me as I read through the first steps:

    Gentle Lead

    Position the neck strap as high up on the dog’s neck as possible. Neck strap must be so snug only one finger can fit under it, and it cannot rotate around the neck. (Per Petsafe brand directions found above).

    We were able to successfully accomplish steps 2 and 3 on my pup’s neck.

    Gentle Lead

    I tried placing gentle pressure underneath the collar to make sure one finger could fit through. We were good, besides the fact that I couldn’t believe it was correct that the collar sits high on her trachea like this.

    Oh well, I’m no vet.

    Gentle Lead

    Step 2: Fit the Nose Loop

    Next, Petsafe brand recommends that you remove what you’ve just done so that you can condition your dog to the nose loop.

    Conditioning dogs to their training tools is VERY important, and the nose loop is aversive to most dogs.

    Keep the nose loop open while luring your dog through it by ‘offering a treat’. You will want to ‘be ready with tasty treats’ for this part.

    Step 3: Use Treats To Lure the Dog

    Honest truth, your dog will HATE this thing.

    Most dogs probably don’t want something putting pressure and removing full range of their mouth, nose, breathing and face- that’s just my thoughts anyways.

    Gentle Lead

    Nonetheless, we survived stages 4 and 5 of the Petsafe brand directions. We survived the nose loop fitting and we managed to get it around my dog’s neck and dog’s nose. (Not, I will say, without concern for the amount of intense pressure on my dog’s nose).

    It is VERY common for dogs to paw, whine, fight, roll, and rub trying to get a head collar off of their face. That’s a sign that this tool is NOT as ‘gentle’ as the company wants you to believe.

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    Step 4 – Adjust the Straps for Proper Fit

    Steps 3 and 4 of the Petsafe brand directions directed me to make sure that the strap was high and tight on my dog’s head, and tight enough that it does not fall off of the dog’s head, but not too tight that it can’t be pulled slightly down the nose of my dog. (Call Customer Care Center for our short nosed dogs or furry friends).

    Gentle Lead

    As shown, I gave it a good gentle tug against my dog’s desire and we were still up to par with the fitting

    instructions.

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    So far so good. 5 stars on the thorough instructions thus far- apart from the fact that my dog was coughing and could barely open her mouth.

    Step 5: Make sure that the Petsafe forms a “V”

    Next, you want to make sure your tool is actually on correct, since you may have missed a step somewhere along the way.

    When properly fitted, Gentle Leaders should resemble a ‘V’ from the side, and the center bar will rest ‘just above’ the tracheal area. (Brand’s words not mine).

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    Taking a look at my dog- I think we have the V mastered.

    I can ALREADY tell we’re going to have greater control now that I can slash her delicate throat with this durable nylon whenever I want!

    Gentle Lead

    We were ready to embark on our first walk. I was really impressed with my dog’s focus.

    Or maybe it was just that she couldn’t breathe. Either way, she was being super quiet, and that’s all that mattered.

    Is Gagging and Coughing Normal with a Head Harness?

    Before we left, I made sure to read the big, bold ‘CAUTION’ at the bottom of the Petsafe Gentle Leader Head Collar Directions.

    Incase you can’t read it, here’s what it says: “Follow instructions carefully when fitting and using on bulldogs and other breeds with genetically limited airways or flat noses. It is typical for these dogs to frequently experience breathing difficulties when exercising or under stress because of their physically limited airways. If their breathing difficulties increase when wearing the headcollar, immediately discontinue use and consult your veterinarian.”

    Gentle Lead

    Phew, good thing my dog is a Great Dane. I feel bad for other dogs that have to worry about not breathing in this great training tool! Off we go!

    Video Fitting of the Gentle Leader Head Collar on a Great Dane

    Incase you’re like me, and have an attention span of 0, here’s a video from start to finish of me fitting the Gentle Leader onto my girl.

    Attach the Leash to the Gentle Leader

    The Gentle leader is not like traditional collars. Unlike traditional collars that you typically find the leash attached behind your dog’s head, the Gentle Leader requires you to attach the collar underneath the dog’s neck.

    Gentle Lead

    Intrigued about the placement of the leash and the fact that the collar sits high against her neck (and tight), I did a few google searches of the anatomy of a dog’s face.

    Of course, I wasn’t at all worried about making sure the Gentle Leader didn’t paralyze my dog… I just, you know, have always been interested in the nerves my dog carries in her head… Regular, everyday research here people.

    DOG FACE ANATOMY

    This image shows where the dog’s nerves are located, including (orange) the Trigeminal Nerve and (yellow) the Facial Nerve. The “trigeminal nerve is the part of the nervous system responsible for sending pain, touch and temperature sensations from your face to your brain”.

    Gentle Lead

    Hmm… It seems like, it feels like, no… it couldn’t be that the Gentle Leader Head Collars is smashing directly over the two main nerves in my dog’s face… No way- the company itself says they are GENTLE!!!!

    KEEP IGNORING THE RISK AND KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE PRIZE

    Eyes on the prize, people. Remember the goal. Basic obedience is WAY more important than your dog having function of its face.

    Do not fret- putting pressure of this astronomical weight MIGHT damage their Trigeminal Nerve, BUT, it really will make SUCH A DIFFERENCE when your dog pulls.

    Finally: Take Your Dog for a Walk

    Next, you guessed it, begin to take your dog for an easy walk. Using the front clip harness and Petsafe GENTLE Leader, venture out to see your new dog in action.

    Off we went!

    Gentle Lead

    My Dog Banks

    A little bit of background- since you probably don’t care.

    My dog is just a really good girl, always carries a loose leash and makes for an easy walk.

    She never demonstrates ‘unwanted behaviors’. But I can relate to the frustrations that other dog owners feel when choosing a tool like this. Untrained Great Danes are big, strong dogs that can be dangerous!

    Walk Your Dog Like Normal in a Head Collar

    Next, just walk your dog like normal while they wear the gentle leader headcollar.

    I encourage you to take a video while your dog walks, turns, and moves in the easy walk harness.

    Taking a video will help you notice what happens when the nose loop ‘redirects’ your dog as they turn or move or when they see a rabbit and take off or when you drop your phone and yank that leash on accident.

    So yeah, your dog won’t pull on leash with the gentle leader harness.

    Because THEY CAN’T. Because they are trapped. As the quick snap buckles choke your dog, the Gentle leader ‘gently’ moves to trap their face, making it physically impossible for them to NOT behave.

    I believe that your dog deserves better than the Gentle Leader.

    TAKE NOTICE OF WHEN YOUR DOG MOVES / PULLS OR TURNS

    If they pull forward, the nose loop ‘redirects’ them.

    Screenshot 2022 11 03 at 1.34.43 PM

    Every single ‘redirect’, is attached to your dog’s head, which is attached to your dog’s neck, which not only is attached to your dog’s face but rather plastered onto their facial nervous system.

    Out for a nice walk?

    You see a friend and pull your arm upward to wave hello- nerve pain.

    Your dog stops to smell the roses- neck crank.

    You forgot your phone and turn suddenly to go inside unbeknown to your dog- neck / spinal issues.

    Your dog sees other dogs up ahead and gets excited and begins to pull on leash- major no no buddy- you know better than that- here’s some chronic face pain due to damage on your Facial Nerve.

    ANSWER THIS QUESTION

    Do you want your dog to listen to you because you want a dog who has a great life, is happy and healthy and a functioning citizen of society?

    Or, do you want your dog to listen to you simply so that you can prove that your daily walks are easy, manageable, and you’re the boss?

    The Gentle Leader is a Control Device, not a Gentle Device

    The Gentle Leader Headcollar is not gentle.

    Actually, in my opinion, it’s one of the most dangerous tools on the market for dogs.

    It is not gentle on your dog’s neck, their spine, their trachea, their throat, or their face.

    The Gentle Leader Headcollar is a control statement.

    A way to show the world that you are in charge and your dog will do as you say- no matter what.

    Video of My Dog Walk With the Gentle Leader

    The Gentle Leader Head Collar is Dangerous

    The Gentle Leader is a marketing scam.

    How foolish of pet parents to think that they can correct excessive barking safely by sewing their dog’s mouths shut.

    How dangerous of pet parents to think their is an easy fix to leash pulling- all at their dog’s muscular skeletal and nervous system’s disadvantage.

    The Gentle Leader Head Collar is Lazy

    Not only is the Gentle Leader absolutely dangerous and dog’s hate it- but it’s SO LAZY.

    You are telling your dog “Do as I say or else”.

    You are not teaching your dog anything about how to behave on a leash, you are not creating a relationship with mutual respect, and you are not showing your dog that walks can be fun.

    A dog in a head collar cannot comfortably move, sniff, or explore like they can in a harness, collar, or off-leash.

    Active Dogs Deserve Daily Walks and Freedom of Movement

    Your dog should be allowed to stop and smell the roses.

    Your dog should stop and sniff the neighbor dog’s pee from earlier.

    Dog’s live their entire lives enclosed in the house. They don’t go to work and they don’t have social lives the same way that humans do.

    Allowing dogs the freedom to safely explore on their leashed walks is a gift for both parents and dog.

    Restricting their every single movement down to the flinch by garnishing their face is a strip of their complete freedom- one that I will not ever stand for with my own dogs.

    The Gentle Leader is One of the Most Aversive Tools I’ve Seen

    Overall, it was fascinating for me, as an avid e collar user, to test out a tool that I consistently see positive trainers rave about.

    The Gentle Leader is spoken so highly about in the world of positive training.

    Respect Training Tips: How to Train Your Puppy Great Dane
    What is a Dog E Collar? 99 Reasons Why They’re Great & Shock Ain’t One

    But, would you rather have a tool that communicates with your dog (whether aversive or not!) WITH or WITHOUT potentially PERMANENTLY damaging their entire structure, muscles, nerves, or worse.

    The Gentle Leader is Not Appropriate for Many Dogs

    The Gentle Leader scared me for many reasons:

    1. It is SO easy to put on incorrectly
    2. It can be permanently damaging if your dog pulls or turns wrong
    3. It is SO tight that it DEFINITELY restricts air flow- my dog was coughing the second she got it removed
    4. It is a ‘control’ tool- pet parents can yank when their dog is not listening and ‘snap’ them into better behavior
    5. It is being advertised to prevent other unwanted behaviors such as barking- which implies it DOES NOT allow dog’s to open their mouths to achieve a full pant/bark
    6. The immense pressure on the face can irreversible damage
    7. Dogs hate them!

    There are better options out there that don’t damage your dog’s face, neck, or spine.

    I would not recommend the Gentle Leader to anyone. The only thing gentle about this tool, is the name: Gentle Leader.

    Opt for an E collar.

  • OllyDog Backcountry Day Pack Treat Pouch Review

    OllyDog Backcountry Day Pack Treat Pouch Review

    Our OllyDog Backcountry Day Pack treat pouch review was written just for you.

    After years of searching, trial and error I think I’ve found a near-perfect treat training pouch.

    A bait bag like the OllyDog Backcountry is made to carry treats for your dog during luring, training, sports, and activities.

    Having a great treat training pouch that is easy to use, rugged and simple to wear is so important. At Hello Danes we believe in positive reinforcement (and modern balanced) dog training, and treats are a HUGE piece of that puzzle!

    Ollydog Backcountry Day Pack Treat Pouch Review

    OllyDog Backcountry Day Pack Treat Pouch Review

    I ordered my OllyDog treat pouch directly from Amazon. What really caught my eye was the fact that they had several colors to choose from, including CUTE patterns like the one I chose (with pine trees and hearts. I’m obsessed!).

    (SEE IT ON AMAZON HERE).

    It came fast with one-day shipping (YAY! I needed it for a training class after my old treat pouch bit the dust).

    Some of the colors were out of stock or took longer to arrive, so be aware of that before you fall in love with a color or pattern they have!

    IMG 2426

    OllyDog Treat Pouch First Impressions

    I LOVE this pattern so much, it’s adorable. I’d be lying if I didn’t mention that I was worried about the white getting dirty (because you know, dogs) but it’s worth the risk.

    The pattern part with the white background does appear to be a high quality, possibly waxed canvas material. I suspect like similar products from that fabric that it’s going to hold up VERY well.

    This bag is well-made and sturdy, from heavy canvas, zippers and linings. It’s actually much nicer in quality and build than other treat pouches I’ve had (and believe me, I’ve had several).

    I personally like that this dog treat pouch is substantial in size. Many of the smaller ones will spill treats out if you bend over, but this one is deep and wide.

    IMG 2424

    OllyDog Backcountry Treat Pouch Features

    This treat pouch offers:

    • Sturdy construction
    • Beautiful decorative details
    • A LARGE deep pouch with a zipper closure, for holding your favorite dog treats
    • A zipper pouch for your keys and cell phone (keep them secure!)
    • A pouch with a dispenser hole for doo-doo bags (we prefer the biodegradable or compostable kind)
    • A stretchy side-pocket made of webbing, may be useful for clickers and small toys

    Two of the biggest complaints that people (including me) have about treat pouches (in general) is that they are NOT deep enough OR that their hand doesn’t easily fit into the pouch.
    OllyDog has solved both of these problems.

    IMG 2434

    How to wear (and use) a dog treat pouch

    You can attach your new OllyDog Treat Pouch to your body with the included (removable) belt OR the metal clip. Your choice!

    We recommend using positive reinforcement to teach your dog new behaviors. These include things such as:

    • Sit, Down, Stand
    • Stay
    • Wait
    • Leave it
    • Let’s Go!
    • Look
    • Touch
    • Place
    • Heel
    • Back up
    • COME!

    Positive reinforcement means to add something to reinforce (increase) a behavior.

    Professional dog trainers use treats and dog food to motivate and reward dogs.

    When using treats for positive reinforcement, HIDE the treat until your dog completes the behavior!

    When you hide the treats (in an OllyDog or similar treat pouch), the treats become a surprise reward.

    The goal with all treat training is to fade out the reliance on treats, so don’t spend too much time luring!

    Keep your hands off the treats until your dog shows the behavior you want. Storing the goodies in a treat pouch, but still easily accessible, is the professional way of doing things.

    A good treat pouch is a must-have for training classes, rewarding good behavior around the house (especially for puppies!), hiking, and more.

    IMG 2435

    Is the OllyDog Treat Bag missing anything?

    If I had ONE piece of feedback for the makers of this beautiful treat pouch, it’s that I wish it had a small clip for an E-Collar remote.

    A simple clip on the outside front would have made it so that the remote could be attached to this bag, and you could also have the treats within reach. E-Collar training should always be taught with lots of positive reinforcement, and the Mini-Educator (low stim, feels like a touch sensation) paired with treats = magic for you and your dog.

    Until I figure out how to fashion my own clip for this, I’ll continue to wear my E-Collar remotes around my neck.

    OllyDog Styles

    The OllyDog Treat pouch comes in two versions: the Backcountry (my personal favorite, as we walk and hike off-leash often), or the smaller goodie bag with magnetic closure.

    The smaller version is perfect for dog owners who want something more compact with fewer features.

    Like the Backcountry treat pouch, it comes in a range of gorgeous designer colors and patterns.

    Figaro approves!

    IMG 2440

    Choose Your Treat Pouch

    Fill Your Treat Pouch UP!

    Screen Shot 2022 03 30 at 2.11.34 PM

    JOIN OUR COMMUNITY

    Do you like modern positive+balanced off-leash dog training, science-based information, life with Danes, educated ownership and chatting with other like-minded people?

    Join our growing Facebook group!

  • Why is Leash Training Dogs So Dang Hard? 8 Things I Learned About Leash Training

    Why is Leash Training Dogs So Dang Hard? 8 Things I Learned About Leash Training

    It’s no secret that leash training dogs can be a huge pain.

    In fact, according to yours truly: me, it has been proven as one of the most challenging things about owning a dog.

    Leash Training Dogs

    Why is it so difficult?

    I really will admit when I got my first puppies (yes- that’s right, I got two 8 week old dogs at once), I thought that daily walks would be fun, and we could start walking right away.

    Peaceful, nice, enjoyable.

    NOT.

    My dogs were terrible. It’s one thing to have your dog pulling on the leash and killing your back (you can just pretend it doesn’t hurt, wave kindly to people passing by, and act like you have everything put together), but when your puppy is rapidly gaining weight (Great Danes) and becoming stronger than you- the pull becomes a problem: physically, mentally AND emotionally.

    I was really stressed. Matter of fact, I was doomed.

    LEASH TRAINING DOGS STINKS

    I said it. Leash training dogs is NOT FUN!!!

    It is SO much work.

    Why are all these people walking all of their perfectly behaved dogs around the neighborhood?

    Meanwhile, me: My dog’s leash is tangled around my entire body like a trap, my dog starts pulling and I do everything I can to pretend it isn’t about to trip me to the concrete. I’m trying to walk nicely- wait, aren’t the dogs supposed to be the ones who are walking nicely? Don’t even BEGIN to think about carrying a COFFEE on this walk. I need BOTH hands.

    Dog walks are no freaking joke.

    LOOSE LEASH: MORE LIKE A FOREIGN LANGUAGE

    One day, I took one puppy on a walk (que the pulling) with a friend.

    She said, ‘you should really teach loose leash walking with her’.

    Great Dane Leash

    Gulp. I am pretty sure you could see the sweat beads on my forehead. WHAT THE HECK IS LOOSE LEASH WALKING? I think my friend could probably HEAR my panic.

    ‘Of course I am practicing loose leash skills with her… We practice loose leash walking ALL the time’…. I could barely muster the words.

    We walk forward a few steps- my puppy pulling on both her collar and leash as I pretend to know what I’ve gotten myself into.

    GOOGLE QUERY: LOOSE LEASH WALKING TIPS

    Panic sets in and I set to the googling.

    Loose leash walking. Dog training. Dog walks that don’t create anxiety attacks.

    Google dings back with 1 billion results.

    “Loose leash walking in dog training: it means that the dog walks on a loose leash, without pulling ahead of or behind the person holding the end of the leash. In order to train your dog to walk on a loose leash, you’ll need patience and consistency.”

    Well that’s just great.

    I’m going to need more than just patience and consistency- I’m going to need a MIRACLE.

    Wish me luck. Slam computer shut.

    LEARNING TO LOVE LEASH TRAINING

    Well, my dogs new how to grow fast, but they did not know how to walk nicely even though we continued to practice walking.

    But, I knew I needed to keep practicing leash training or else we would literally never be able to leave the house.

    I started my quest for teaching loose leash walking.

    THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT TO LEASH TRAIN

    I quickly learned that in order to get these two demons, I mean puppies, leash trained- we were going to need the right stuff.

    All I had was a flat collar, and it felt like every time we went to practice leash training it was more like a ‘choke your puppy’ training session.

    No, really. Both dogs would end up coughing from the amount of pulling and strain on their throats.

    I’m no professional- but I knew that was not healthy. So, I investigated which items are healthiest for dogs to walk on a leash.

    Here is what I found:

    FLAT COLLAR OTHERWISE KNOWN AS A ‘REGULAR’ COLLAR FOR NOOBS LIKE ME

    Your dog’s collar might be adorable but if it is hurting your dog, what’s the point?

    I found that a flat collar was actually really uncomfortable for my puppy and it constricted her breathing. (Yes- every dog DOES need a regular collar for multiple reasons, including tags/identification, but is it best for training? Not really.)

    Heres a cute one… because it’s cute…

    Anyways, I knew I needed to find something different if we were going to make any progress with leash training.

    Using a regular collar can put strain on your dogs throat and neck, ESPECIALLY when they pull or if they are regularly pulling on the leash.

    MARTINGALE COLLAR

    A martingale collar is a type of dog collar that provides more control over the animal without the choking effect of a slip collar.

    A martingale collar is often used on dogs who pull on their leash.

    The martingale collar was specifically designed for sighthounds, which have necks that are larger than their heads and can easily slip out of standard collars.

    Martingale collars have become popular with dog owners.

    SLIP COLLAR OR CHOKE COLLAR

    A slip collar (also called a choke chain or check chain) is a type of dog collar that consists of a loop of material that tightens when pulled, and is loosened when the lead is slackened.

    Slip collars are used to train dogs to not pull on their leash, as the tightening of the collar around the neck punishes the dog for pulling.

    At first, I thought that training your dog to walk on a choke collar or slip collar seemed cruel. But, as I looked into it, I learned that it is actually WAY better for the dog and their entire body to use a slip/choke collar rather than constantly yanking their neck around on a regular collar and leash.

    GENTLE LEADER

    The Gentle Leader is one that really got me angry.

    The marketing of the ‘gentle’ leader is brilliant- and EVERYONE falls for it- it’s gentle of course, right?

    WRONG.

    The gentle leader is actually a head halter that puts pressure on your dog’s muzzle- not their neck like a regular collar.

    This type of leash is used by putting the loop around your dog’s muzzle and clipping the leash to the ring on the back of the head.

    I’m sure you can imagine how this would feel, being yanked or even pulled by the muzzle.

    I can’t imagine anything less gentle.

    LEASH

    Since my puppy was pulling incessantly on the leash, I opted for a short, tight one that was within my control. I didn’t want them to pull me over or hurt themselves, so I went with a sturdy, comfortable leash.

    I also got a long leash, which is very helpful in the training process.

    PRONG COLLARS

    Prong collars are another one of those items that are scrutinized by pet owners but used nicely by a good professional trainer.

    A prong collar is a type of dog collar that has metal “prongs” that point inwards, towards the dog’s neck. Prong collars are NOT cruel.

    Prong collars are used to train dogs not to pull on their leash, as the prongs will pinch the skin if the dog tries to pull away from the owner.

    RETRACTABLE LEASH

    I quickly learned that most dogs will be extremely dangerous on a retractable leash.

    They can get tangled up in it, or worse- run out into the street without you knowing and get hit by a car.

    I decided against using one for my own safety and the safety of my dogs during training.

    E COLLAR

    E collars were intriguing to me! An e collar is NOT a shock collar. An e collar is a collar that helps you COMMUNICATE with your dog.

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    The collar you choose to buy REALLY matters. Click to see the devices we vouch for.

    Inside of the e collar is a receiver and a transmitter. The receiver goes on the dog’s collar and the transmitter stays with you, usually around your neck.

    The e collar is used to leash train, and teach your dog what is right from wrong.

    MY CHOICES FOR TRAINING SESSIONS AND EQUIPMENT

    I REALLY loved the fundamentals behind the e collar methods to training your dog with both positive reinforcement as well as correcting when the dog is wrong- so I opted for using an e collar, a regular collar, and a standard leash. I also got a long leash for using inside the house or backyard to begin to start leash training.

    Now that I had all the right equipment, it was time to start training!

    TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL LOOSE LEASH WALKING

    Start in a distraction free area- like your backyard.

    Put the long leash on your dog, and let them walk around without you doing anything.

    This is called “getting used to the feel of the leash.”

    Offer treats when your dog is walking nicely, keep your sessions short, and

    Once you regularly see good behavior you can gradually increase to spending more time on the lead and add in some distractions.

    ADD IN DISTRACTIONS

    Have a family member or friend stand about 20 feet away from you, holding your dog’s favorite treat.

    If your dog pulls ahead and creates leash tension, ask them to stop pulling by saying “stop” and “sit”.

    Keep practicing this until your dog is really good at it, then move on to other distractions like another person or animal walking by.

    Remember- baby steps! Rome wasn’t built in a day.

    INCORPORATING TREATS

    In my opinion, treats are an essential part of training your dog.

    I made sure to include a treat every few minutes or even seconds during short periods of training. I got a treat pouch and kept the treats close by at all times!

    Here are the treats that my puppy absolutely LOVES!

    Now it’s time to start walking!

    As you walk, keep the slack in the leash- don’t let your dog get ahead of you or lag behind.

    If they start to pull, stop walking and make them sit until the slack is back in the leash.

    PRACTICING PATIENCE (WHILE YOUR DOG PULLS ON THE LEASH)

    One of the most important things to remember while leash training is to be patient!

    Your dog has probably been pulling on the leash their whole life, so it’s going to take some time for them to adjust.

    Be consistent with your commands and using treats as rewards, and eventually you’ll see results!

    WALKING YOUR DOG: ENJOYMENT VS. SURVIVAL MODE

    If you are as desperate as I am to teach your dog to walk on a leash, you probably understand that there are times that your dog really might not listen, might pull constantly and walking might not be fun.

    SPOILER ALERT: sometimes your dog just needs to go for a quick walk to potty and it might not be the right time to train your dog.

    Set aside collar and leash time daily if you can, be intentional about correcting behavioral issues, but do not be a perfectionist.

    Walking with your dog is a process that sometimes comes in waves of ups and downs. Be sure to really recognize when your dog is ‘off duty’ and can have some ‘free time’ to stop and smell the roses.

    DOG WALKS: THEY CAN BE FUN! (I PROMISE)

    I started off thinking that getting a dog to walk appropriately was absolutely miserable.

    But as I continue walking my dog every single day, I have learned that every walk is different.

    Sometimes, I will have my dog’s attention completely, and sometimes I won’t.

    But, EVERY single walk does teach me something new about them, and I have learned that in order to train your dog you have to dig inside of yourself as well.

    Some of my most cherished memories and moments are just me and my dog out for a walk. I promise, it does get better!

    LEASH TRAINING: THE FINAL VERDICT? WORTH IT. YES. A MILLION TIMES OVER.

    Although training a puppy or older dog is NEVER easy- when you get a dog you have to start leash training.

    Over time, with a million of hours of practice, blood, sweat and tears, my dog has become reliable both on leash and off leash.

    I trust my dog with my life- something I NEVER would have guessed I would have been able to say about the floppy/clumsy/terribly behaved puppy I brought home.

    Teaching your dog to walk nicely is a civic duty of pet parents- and I promise, it is so worth it.

  • What is a Dog E Collar? 99 Reasons Why They’re Great & Shock Ain’t One

    What is a Dog E Collar? 99 Reasons Why They’re Great & Shock Ain’t One

    What is a dog e collar?

    What is a Dog E Collar

    Is it abusive? Is it a shock collar? Does it cause pain?

    Or do e collars help build strong, confident dogs, while removing undesirable behaviors and creating a bond between pets and pet owners?

    What is a dog e collar?

    E collars are a form of remote training collar.

    But – do they work? And even more-so- what the heck are they?

    THE FOUNDATIONS: WHAT IS A DOG E COLLAR?

    what is a dog e collar?

    An e collar is a training tool for dogs. But more importantly, it is a way for dog owners to communicate the rules and ‘norms’ of life with their pet, set strong boundaries, and help them to be successful in life.

    WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A SHOCK COLLAR AND AN E COLLAR?

    Most people think that e collar use is the same thing as shock collars.

    This is simply NOT true. E collar training is VERY different than training with shock collars.

    Shock collars are known to create painful skin burns, cause extreme harm to the neck / skin, and can actually CAUSE negative behavior. Shock collars are made with the intention to punish a dog for bad behavior – and are NOT an effective way to train your pet.

    Additionally, one of the main difference between shock collars and e collars is on the inside. On the inside of a shock collar is a shock unit- when you push the button on the remote control your dog will get shocked. The shock collar can be VERY unreliable- sometimes it will shock and sometimes it will not. A ‘cheap’ shock collar from Amazon or something of the like is known to create pressure sores and thus, negative associations with your dog.

    Do not get sucked into thinking that a shock collar is the training tool that you should use to perfect your dog’s behavior. It will simply cause harm, pain and unnecessary behaviors or new behavioral issues over time.

    ARE ELECTRIC COLLARS CRUEL?

    If you are using a shock collar to train dogs, it can be considered cruel. Using a shock collar on your dog for any form of behavior modification can create confusion.

    However, e collars work entirely different than a shock collar, and therefore the training sessions associated with these collars are also very different. In result- your dog will FEEL very different physically, emotionally, and their behavior will be very different when working with this effective training tool.

    Not all collars for dogs are the same. E collars work with positive reinforcement AND negative reinforcement (YES- negative reinforcement IS a good thing- ALL dogs need correction in order to correct behavior when training).

    So- when deciding if remote training collars are cruel- you need to know the difference between all the different types of collars for dogs. Bark collars, shock collar, or stimulation collars for dogs.

    Choose a stimulation collar! We call these e-collars. This is the most ethical form of training collar for your pup and is NOT cruel.

    WHAT IS ON THE INSIDE OF AN E COLLAR?

    On the inside of ethical, modern e collars is what makes them an effective training tool.

    Have you ever been to the chiropractor?

    The chiropractor uses a tool called ‘stim‘. In humans, stim is used for muscle therapy, rehabilitation, long-term injury care, pain management, and sports recovery.

    218102006 159973869533988 2344798461813887346 n

    The collar you choose to buy REALLY matters. Click to see the devices we vouch for.

    What BETTER item to use on your dog’s neck than electronic collars with electronic stimulation that not only helps with their training but provides healthy muscular benefits as well?

    WHAT DOES THE ‘E’ IN ‘E COLLAR’ MEAN?

    The ‘e’ in e collar means ‘electronic’.

    But what does that mean?

    It means that there is a small stimulation box on the inside of the collar that sends out a electric charge to two metal contact points on either side of your dog’s neck. The electric charge is not harmful- and actually feels similar to a ‘tingle’ or ‘buzz’ that you might feel if you were to touch your tongue to a battery.

    The charge is not harmful, and is actually very low level. The level of stimulation can be increased or decreased depending on what training stage your dog is in, as well as their individual personality and needs.

    Any collar that does not include Electrical Muscle Stimulation is considered a ‘shock collar’, and should be treaded easily. Stim will train your dog what is right and wrong and allow them to understand your communication whereas shock collars will condition your dogs to the idea that you are going to harm them and cause pain when they are not responding correctly.

    WHAT DOES AN E COLLAR DO FOR DOGS?

    An e collar is used by dog owners or a professional dog trainer to help dogs succeed in ALL aspects of life.

    Because e collars are ‘communication’ devices, rather than ‘corrective’ devices, they are used not to control your pet, but to help as your dog learns right from wrong.

    Additionally, e collars teach dogs how to be safe, avoid dangerous situations while off leash, and gain strong recall.

    E collars can also be used for maintaining positive obedience skills like walking on a leash, not jumping on people, avoiding counter surfing, and being able to gain the freedom to live their best lives while also being safe and healthy.

    WHAT DOES AN E COLLAR FEEL LIKE?

    E collars, unlike shock collars, DO NOT hurt or cause pain.

    The level of stimulation can be increased or decreased- but should always start at the lowest setting.

    The electronic e collar that we highly recommend has a ‘momentary’ and a ‘continuous’ setting.

    The momentary is a quick stimulation that’s purpose is to get your dog’s attention or remind them of a certain behavior. It is similar to what you might feel if you were to briefly have your hand fall asleep, for 1 second.

    The continuous stim is where the owner has control over the electronic collar with the remote, and can dial the volume of the e collar up and down, depending on the dogs behavior.

    For example: if you are wanting your pup to recall while off leash from 100 yards away, you can begin to dial up on the continuous stim. As your dog returns to you, you will begin to dial down. This is a strategy that I like to call the ‘hot and cold’ game.

    Either way, when using e collars with stim inside of them, the e collar feels like a slight buzzing- and does not hurt.

    Most dog owners will try the collar on themselves before trying it on their dog to train.

    DO E COLLARS TRAUMATIZE DOGS?

    E collars and e collar training does NOT traumatize dogs.

    In fact, the opposite is true.

    E collars provide a way for dog owners to have clear communication with their dogs- and help them learn how to be safe and make good decisions.

    Without e collars, many dogs would never be able to experience all the joys that life has to offer- like being off leash hiking in the woods, running and playing on the beach, or even just being able to have a safe walk around the neighborhood.

    E collars provide dogs with a way to have freedom- while also keeping them safe.

    However, having said that, using a low quality collar with your dog will put you at risk for contact burns, random harsh shock, and in turn: unexplainable behaviors.

    HOW DO YOU USE AN E COLLAR?

    E collars are meant to communicate with your dog.

    First and foremost, before you begin dog training with e collars on any behavior, your dog should know the basic verbal commands.

    For example, if you are wanting to train your dog to associate the use of ecollars in their dog training to the ‘sit’ command, they should ALREADY be able to perform the sit command.

    If you are hoping to strengthen your dog’s leash skills- they should already have a foundation of training on leash skills in which you maintain control over your dog on leash.

    WHERE DO I START WITH USING AN E COLLAR?

    The first place to start using e collars on your dog is with their name.

    Your dog should know their name already.

    If they don’t- that is the first place to start.

    You will want to get your dog’s attention before using any type of stimulation with the e collar.

    The way that you do this is by saying their name in a happy, excited voice and then immediately following with a treat. Our favs here:

    IDENTIFY THE WORKING LEVEL OF YOUR DOG

    After you have done this a few times, you will then want to begin using the e collar.

    Start with the lowest level of stimulation and work your way up as needed.

    I like to start on the lowest level and then increase the level if my dog is not responding.

    Once you find the lowest level of the collar that works for your dog you are ready to begin training them to associate their name with the collar.

    TEACH YOUR DOG TO ASSOCIATE THEIR NAME WITH THE COLLARS

    Next, you will want to put the collar on your dog.

    You will then want to say your dog’s name in a happy voice and immediately follow it with a treat.

    Repeat this process several times until your dog is responding consistently.

    Now you are ready to begin adding in the stimulation with the e collar.

    Start with the lowest level of stimulation.

    Remember to always start with verbal praise first and then follow it with a treat as well as a ‘marker word’. A marker word means that you are telling your dog that they have done something correct.

    I like to use the word ‘yes’ as my marker word.

    So, when I say my dog’s name and they look at me I would then say ‘yes’ and immediately follow it with a treat.

    Once your dog is responding consistently, you can begin to add one extra step with your wireless remote.

    1. Say your dogs name
    2. Wait for them to look at you
    3. Press the stim button
    4. Simultaneously provide a treat (positive reinforcement) as well as a marker word ‘YES’!

    SHOULD YOU TRAIN YOUR DOG WITH AN E COLLAR?

    In short, we LOVE seeing healthy training of dogs using an e collar! Feel free to check out our guide below:

    If you feel uncomfortable getting started, get some help from a professional trainer who can help you get started. With proper techniques, using an e collar can significantly help most dogs thrive and be confident members of society.

    READ MORE:

    Is My Puppy Too Skinny?
    Scam Breeders: What to Look For
    Breeders: Shady Business
    What is the Difference Between an E Collar and a Shock Collar?
    9 Reasons to E Collar Train Your Great Dane Puppy
    Is the Gentle Leader an Abusive Tool?

  • E Collar with Puppy Training: 9 Exciting Reasons You Should Use an E Collar With Your Puppy

    E Collar with Puppy Training: 9 Exciting Reasons You Should Use an E Collar With Your Puppy

    You might be shocked to see me suggest using an e collar on a puppy.

    E Collar with Puppy

    However, I’ve got some news for dog owners: Great Dane puppies don’t stay little for long.

    One day, you’ve got this new puppy who is snuggly and sweet… but if you blink for just 1 second and open your eyes: you’ve got a puppy the size of an adult dog.

    It can be detrimental not to begin training positive behavior into your dog from a young age.

    But really- electronic collar training? On a puppy?

    Let me explain. I’ve got some reasons why I believe that incorporating an electronic, stim collar into your training sessions with yes- even young puppies– will benefit both you and your dog.

    WHEN SHOULD YOU USE AN E COLLAR WITH PUPPY TRAINING?

    One of the most common questions new dog owners ask is when to start using a stim collar during puppy training.

    E Collar with Puppy

    The answer, of course, depends on a variety of factors, including the methods of which you plan to use the collar, the collar you buy itself, and temperament of your dog.

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    The collar you choose to buy REALLY matters. Click to see the devices we vouch for.

    However, there are a few general guidelines that can help you decide when it’s time to introduce a stim collar into your pup’s training regimen.

    First, you’ll need to use stim conditioning with your dog, which means teaching them that the collar is not a punishment.

    Collar conditioning protocols will help the Great Dane owner equip the Great Dane with the ability to understand the training method as a form of communication and not as a punishment for undesired behaviors.

    WHAT IS A SHOCK COLLAR AND IS IT THE SAME AS A STIM COLLAR?

    A shock collar is a device that is worn around the neck of a Great Dane and delivers an electric shock to the dog when it is triggered by a remote control.

    Shock collar training is NOT the same as using an ethical training collar.

    Shock collars are controversial, and their use is banned in some countries.

    Supporters of shock collars argue that they are a safe and effective way to train dogs, while opponents argue that they are cruel and can cause behavior problems.

    LET ME REPEAT: WE THINK THEY ARE VERY DANGEROUS!

    The use of shock collars is regulated in some countries, and only approved collars may be used. In the United States, there are no federal laws governing the use of shock collars, but some states have laws that restrict their use.

    We stand by the belief that you should never use a puppy shock collar to prevent puppies from certain behaviors.

    ARE SHOCK COLLARS SAFE?

    Modern shock collars and shock training is NOT safe. Shock training requires the use of a shock collar that delivers an electrostatic shock to eliminate unwanted behaviors. With each shock administered, you are telling your dog that you are in control and will/can physically harm them if they are misbehaving.

    Shock collar training is NOT a safe method of training- and shock collars are known to frequently cause painful burns. Great Dane owners should not use a shock collar or puppy shock collar to get a dog’s attention.

    TEN REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD USE AN ETHICAL TRAINING COLLAR WITH YOUR DOGS

    Now that we have talked about the reasons NOT to use a shock collar, let’s jump into the many reasons why you should start collar training with your puppy.

    ONE: OUT OF ALL TRAINING METHODS, AN E COLLAR TRAINING DEVICE IS SAFEST

    When it comes to training methods, there’s a lot of debate over which one is the best. Some people swear by using a positive only approach, deeming the use of stimulation collars as cruel or abusive.

    But when it comes to safety, health and the LEAST ABUSIVE METHOD, there’s really only one winner: a collar with stimulation: NOT a dog shock collar.

    When pet parents think of tools that are ‘painful’ they often think of prong collars, electric collars, and choke collars.

    What Great Dane parents do NOT realize is that the most aversive and dangerous items of all often look the least harmful. Harnesses, flat collars, gentle leaders, and

    Check out this review of the ‘gentle’ leader. Spoiler alert: It is NOT gentle!

    It is important to note that electronic stim collars are much less aversive than other tools such as choke chains or prong collars. Matter of fact, Great Danes actually LOVE them!

    And unlike those devices, the e collar does not cause any lasting physical harm such as joint pain, joint damage or neck issues.

    TWO: THERE IS NO ‘APPROPRIATE AGE’ FOR A SAFE TRAINING COLLAR

    Your Great Dane has a small window of opportunity where their learning curve is huge and they are growing fast and learning quickly. This window is called puppyhood!

    You should seize this as a learning opportunity for you and your dog!

    There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ answer on what age you should begin using a dog collar on your dog.

    However: it is crucial that your dog learn the basic command INDEPENDENT of the collar, before incorporating the collar into the regiment. If your dog responds to the ‘sit’ command, you can begin including the collar into their ‘sit’ routine.

    THREE: E COLLAR TRAINING IS THE SAME AS REWARD BASED TRAINING

    ‘But using an electric collar on my dog removes the process of positive reinforcement…”

    No… no it does not.

    Using e collar conditioning with your dog is one of the most positive training methods you can use!

    The e collar is a remote training tool that can be used to deliver positive or negative reinforcement. It is simply a device that helps you to more effectively communicate with your dog.

    Like all training tools, the e collar should be used in conjunction with positive reinforcement such as treats, toys, and praise. Matter of fact- get ready to load up on treats! Here’s our favs:

    When you start e collar training, you are going to have a reserved pup who has NO idea what is right and what is wrong!

    Incorporating different training methods, treats/verbal commands/leash training/etc, is exactly what your Great Dane needs.

    Most of all, your Great Dane is RELYING on you to communicate with them to help them navigate what is right and what is wrong.

    FOUR: BUT…PUPPIES NEED BOTH POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT AND NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT

    Every single dog and puppy needs boundaries.

    Positive only training is NOT going to work! You will create a dog who consistently relies on the use of treats, rewards, and other incentives in order to do what they should just do as a citizen of this world: the right thing.

    In life, humans and dogs alike need to know right from wrong. There should be positive praise and communication and reward when we do the right thing. And likewise, there should be negative reinforcement for unwanted behavior. This method of combined positive training as well as providing explanation for wrongs is called balanced training.

    FIVE: E COLLAR TRAINING CAN HELP PROTECT FROM UNSAFE BEHAVIOR

    Dogs are unsafe. That is just the truth of the matter.

    Dogs like to run randomly into the street. (Que the lack of recall)

    Dogs like to eat things they shouldn’t.

    Dogs like to jump on small children.

    All of these behaviors can be prevented with proper boundary training and proper collar training.

    An e collar can provide a safe and effective way to protect your dog from engaging in unsafe behavior.

    The single most important part about dog training is helping your dog learn to avoid negative or unsafe actions. After all, it is YOUR job to keep them safe.

    SIX: SET UP YOUR DOG FOR POSITIVE ADVENTURES WHILE THEY ARE LITTLE

    When you first get a dog, you imagine your life with them being full of wild adventures.

    You want to visit lakes.

    You want to go on long hikes.

    You want to take them camping with you.

    But the reality is that most dogs are NOT ready for those things when they are a small, still learning, puppy.

    They need time to learn how to be a dog and how to behave in different situations.

    Work to set up your dog for off leash adventures right from the start. Eliminate their desire to participate in negative or unsafe behavior by communicating with them from puppyhood.

    The adventures will be worth it.

    SEVEN: PREPARE YOUR PUPPY FOR EMOTIONAL STRESS OF LIFE

    Life is stressful.

    One day you’re on a walk and everything seems fine, and then suddenly your puppy starts barking.

    You have NO idea why your dog begins this unwanted behavior, and you have NO idea how to stop it.

    What you don’t realize is the HUNDREDS of stressors that are bombarding your dog during every single walk, every single moment.

    The squirrel.

    The cat.

    The car that drives by.

    All of these things can be stressful for your pup, and can cause them to behave in ways that are unwanted.

    E collar training can help your dog to learn how to cope with the emotional stress of life. By using positive communication between yourself and your dog, you can help your dog to learn how to cope in a busy and stressful life.

    EIGHT: PREVENT AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR BEFORE IT BEGINS

    E collar with puppy

    A confident dog is a happy dog.

    An anxious dog is a stressed dog.

    A stressed dog is a dog that is more likely to lash out in aggression.

    E collar training can help your puppy to become a confident and happy dog.

    Aggressive behaviors typically stem from fear. Your dog’s temperament is NOT (typically) normally aggressive.

    Helping your Great Dane overcome fear will help them remain even-keeled, confident, calm, and composed throughout their lives.

    If you, as their dog owner, begin consistently implementing collar communication with your dogs while they are little sponges, you can help mold their temperaments into healthy, strong dogs.

    NINE: STIMULATE YOUR DOG’S MENTAL ENDURANCE WITH MORE THAN BASIC CONCEPTS

    It is very important that your dog knows basic manners.

    Most Great Dane owners will have practice sessions with their pups on things like sit, down, stay, come, etc.

    BUT- it is just as important to keep your dog’s mind active and challenged with more than the basics.

    Stim collar training can provide a way for you to challenge your dog mentally, while also providing physical activity.

    HOW DOES USING A STIMULATION COLLAR PROVIDE MORE FREEDOM?

    Using an e collar during activities such as activities, adventures, hikes, camping, and even just everyday life, will help you and your dogs find the most freedom possible.

    1. Hunting dogs are often trained on electronic stim collars, as many find huge success working to train hunting dogs with the powerful form of communication.
    2. Sports dogs can also benefit from training with a stim collar.
    3. Off leash adventures will be much more enjoyable and safe for both you and your dog if they have a good foundation in recall.
    4. Hiking on pet friendly trails will become more exciting as your Great Dane is able to sniff/smell like they are biologically designed to do.
    5. Eliminate stress while camping/adventuring as you can be relieved and stress free knowing that your Great Dane is not going to run away.

    TEN: THERE ARE HEALTH REASONS FOR USING A STIMULATION COLLAR

    Believe it or not, stimulation devices are the single healthiest form of training for our pets (in my opinion).

    You may be shocked to hear that some popular forms of training are actually very dangerous.

    1. The use of a dog shock collar: Shock collars can cause contact burns, irregular communication, and skin issues.
    2. Harnesses: Harnesses are proven to create joint issues, spinal problems, and soft tissue damage.
    3. Gentle leader: The ‘gentle’ leader is not so gentle after all. Known for pulling your dog’s neck in the direction that you want it to walk, the gentle leader is also known for causing soft tissue damage, neck injuries, and tracheal collapse.
    4. Anti Bark Collars: Use with discretion. Many anti bark collars actually deliver a very high level of stimulation that can cause your dog to be in pain.
    5. Flat Collars: Even flat collars can be harmful if your pet is not trained in loose leash training.

    USING A PUPPY E COLLAR: IN CONCLUSION

    Your Great Dane deserves your best.

    It is your job to provide them with safety, socialization, life skills and training.

    An e collar is an amazing tool that, when used correctly, can provide your dog with everything they need and more.

    Don’t be afraid to give it a try with a Great Dane of many ages!

    Happy training! 🙂

  • 6 E-Collar Training Myths Busted!

    6 E-Collar Training Myths Busted!

    Electronic collar training, often referred to as “e-collar” training, is a modern method used to train dogs. Unfortunately, it is riddled with myths and misconceptions that can cloud the understanding of this tool’s actual purpose and effectiveness. In this article, we will debunk some of the common E-collar training myths and shed light on the responsible and humane use of electronic collars in dog training.

    It’s essential to separate fact from fiction to make informed decisions about this training technique!

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    What is an E-Collar?

    An electronic collar, commonly known as an e-collar or shock collar, is a device designed for dog training and behavior modification. It consists of a collar that fits around a dog’s neck and a handheld remote control.

    The primary function of an e-collar is to deliver electronic stimulation. This tactile sensation is a powerful way to communicate with a dog from afar, and it doesn’t have to be painful or unfair.

    While the term “shock collar” may sound harsh, it’s important to note that modern e-collars have evolved significantly and offer adjustable levels of stimulation, allowing trainers to use them in a more humane and controlled manner. These devices are not meant to harm or punish the dog but rather to provide clear and consistent communication during training sessions.

    When used responsibly, e-collars can be effective tools for teaching dogs to obey commands, prevent certain behaviors, and enhance their overall safety and well-being. However, it’s crucial to emphasize that e-collar training should always be carried out by knowledgeable and experienced trainers who prioritize the dog’s comfort and safety.

    E Collar Training Guide
    What is an E Collar?

    Think of it as a wireless leash, but without the physical restraint of a flat collar or harness that can be dangerous or damaging to you or your Great Dane. Today we are going to share 6 E-Collar Training myths that you MUST know about!

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    Modern Day E-Collars vs. Shock Collars

    Many people are confused about the difference between a shock collar and an E-Collar. The difference is HUGE!

    What is the Difference Between an E Collar and a Shock Collar?

    A shock collar will deliver a sharp zapping sensation that is meant to be aversive and painful. They are often inexpensive and may lack reliability.

    Many people who resort to shock training are at their “wit’s end” with their pet’s behavior, and looking to get their attention with a beep, vibrate, or shock. Negative body language (cowering, running away, yelping, avoidance) is often seen!

    E-Collars are different.
    Also known as “remote electric training collars”, they use electricity to stimulate the muscle.
    The sensation from a modern E-Collar is a touch sensation that is not meant to be aversive or painful

    At low levels, where most pets are responsive, the sensation is imperceptible to humans. At higher levels, it can feel like tiny ants crawling around or a twitch or tickle, not a shock. At the highest levels, it is uncomfortable, but not sharp.

    E-Collars offer a versatile, humane, gentle tactile communication that dogs respond to with enthusiasm and positivity!

    The exchange of occasional, low-level muscle stimulation, that the dog knows how to turn off, is such an incredible, elegant, and simple trade-off for having absolutely NO leash pressure, no restrictions to movement, and the ability to run, jump, zoom, circle, sniff and explore naturally.

    Why are dog E-Collars controversial?

    E-Collars are controversial because people don’t understand them.

    ‘Positive only’ and ‘Force-free’ trainers use a lot of poorly done studies and emotional marketing to promote the idea that electronic training collars are abusive, no matter what.

    They believe that shock collar training and e-collar training are the same things (they aren’t!) and that both tools are used deliberately and unfairly to hurt, scare, punish and confuse dogs.

    The truth is that incorrect use of poor shock devices can and do cause pain and behavioral problems. No legitimate, ethical and professional dog trainer will recommend a shock collar, especially not to harshly punish aggression and reactivity.

    The studies and case studies that people often cite in reference to electric training collars and similar tools (such as prongs) are typically based on harsh or punitive training and other incorrect use scenarios.

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    E-Collars are very different than shock collars. Many balanced trainers use and recommend high-quality E-Collars for off-leash reliability. The controversial part is that people just don’t know or understand the difference between correct use and abuse.

    E-Collars are a communication tool that provides clarity and guidance, not confusion. Using this training tool correctly is all about providing information.

    The end goal of proper e-collar training is to give your pet more autonomy, choice, and enrichment, without relying on physical restraint or harsh corrections.

    Despite the controversy surrounding remote collar training, the truth is that dogs correctly and thoughtfully taught with this method are confident, balanced, obedient, and have more freedom and autonomy than others can only dream of.

    We believe that reward-based training paired with thoughtfully balanced techniques (including e-collars and prong collars) can keep thousands (if not millions) of bored, ‘stubborn’ dogs out of shelters, too.

    Myth #1: E-Collars make your dog afraid of you

    We highly recommend watching Larry Krohn e collar training videos on his Youtube channel. He has an insane library of content where you can see videos of pets being trained with E-collars who are confident, friendly, and not afraid of Larry Krohn at all.

    One mistake many pet owners make when training their dogs with a shock collar is that they rely on it as a punishment tool. Many feel guilty about that so they begin waving the remote as a threat, hoping to stop an act before resorting to zap corrections.

    With the aforementioned approach, the pet quickly learns that the remote means they are in trouble. They don’t often know why, only that they should run away. This can make it appear that a remote collar-wearing dog is afraid of its owner!

    What’s worse is that teaching an animal to fear the remote and the collar means teaching them run away from the owner, rather than to recall, check-in, and engage.

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    Correct modern e-collar training relies on both parties involved having mutual respect for each other, and that includes a recall (coming when called) foundation that is rock solid. The remote tool becomes a cell phone, not a big stick that you beat your dog with.

    Why is Leash Training so Hard?
    5 Leash Training Tips
    Puppy Training: 5 Mistakes in Training
    What is Balanced Training?

    The remote tool and the collar should not be used as threats or for punitive punishments, and if you watch videos of animals being thoughtfully and correctly E-Collar trained you will see positive body language, mutual respect, and enthusiasm.

    Train your companion with communication, not fear.

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    Myth #2: E-Collars burn dog’s necks

    While a cheap shock collar can cause damage to the neck, it is impossible for an E-Collar to burn skin. This is another wild myth often promoted by people who have never even felt the stimulation from an E-Collar themselves.

    We are a science-based blog, so let’s dig into this!

    Cheap shock training devices from Amazon can malfunction, run hot, and shock your dog at the wrong time. Those collars can absolutely cause damage.

    An E-Collar from a reputable, high-quality company such as Educator Technologies will cost $175 or more to purchase, and with good reason. Reliability and modern tech are huge when it comes to training ethically and humanely with any kind of remote collar.

    The technology that uses electric currents for muscle stimulation (from an E-Collar) is more advanced than the technology required to deliver a sharp static zap (from a cheap shock device).

    It’s the difference between buying an old used Samsung s3 and buying an iPhone 13, only this is used to train your dog (not flip through Tik Tok).

    Because the electric output of modern electronic collars is less than .01amp at the highest level, it is impossible for this training tool to burn a dog’s skin.

    Remember, this modern version uses electrical currents to stimulate the muscle, not cause pain.

    Incorrect use of ANY remote collar, however, CAN lead to pressure sores. The contact points are made of metal and can be an irritant when they aren’t rotated and kept clean. This is not unlike a poorly fit harness or head collar, which can cause rubbing and sores too.

    User error is a problem resolved only by education and dedication (hence the reason we are here)!

    To eliminate the chance of irritation and pressure sores, the collar must be fit correctly (snug, preferably with a bungee collar), the contact points must be kept clean, and the collar must be rotated or removed every few hours.

    Proper Placement of the E Collar

    Electric training collars should never be worn overnight or unsupervised. For pets with sensitive skin, contact points made of different materials are available to try.

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    A mantle Great Dane on a long line learning recall with an E-Collar

    Myth #3: E-Collars are used to punish dogs

    This is true of shock devices, for which the only purpose is to punish, scare, and correct.

    A properly used E-Collar on the other hand can provide guidance that will improve your relationship and provide your pet with enrichment and opportunities that only a well-behaved dog can have.

    With E-Collar training, it’s important that your pup understands what the stimulation sensation means. Through a fun training process using basic obedience commands and conditioning, your dog learns how to respond to and be in control of the sensation.

    What is Balanced Training?
    What is Great Dane Dominance Training?

    The dog becomes a willing and active participant in the training.

    This pressure becomes a communication, not a punishment, and the pup knows that it means good things to them. Training starts with a good foundation and lots of fun, not harsh punishment or ‘trigger happy’ corrections.

    The application of E-Collar pressure is no more “inhumane” than the pressure from a leash and harness; the only difference is that there is no longer a reliance on physical restraint and thus, no damage to the neck, head, or shoulders.
    The pressure is ‘virtual’, in other words!

    Your pet will be able to make choices and move freely, all in exchange for communication from their ‘wireless device’. With this method, the dog dictates every move, free of restraint and you can communicate using a language they understand.

    A dog on a long line does not behave the same way as a dog off-leash using a modern wireless tool.

    A dog on a long line cannot zoom, spin circles, safely play or climb on, around, or under trees.

    Sniffing is great and awesome for dogs, calming, and extremely beneficial for helping them settle and lower their heart rates, but that should not be the only goal! The proper use of modern tools can offer both the “sniffari” and much-needed off-leash enrichment.

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    The proper fit of a comfortable E-Collar bungee strap: snug with two fingers of room.

    The long line should be a backup, when required to satisfy leash laws. When possible, however, it should not be the only way that your Dane gets all of its enrichment and ‘free movement’.

    A Dane getting tangled up in a long line is dangerous to you and to themselves.

    The E-Collar training method is extremely effective, and those being trained correctly on modern, high-quality remote collars show positive body language and excitement. They can easily be redirected away from incorrect activities, too.

    Can an E-collar be used at aversive levels to punish or correct a dog? Absolutely.

    Things that are More Aversive Than an E Collar in Training

    But there is a huge difference between punitive corrections and thoughtfully balancing ‘yes and no’ with rewards and the occasional use of an E-Collar correction.

    e collar myths busted
    A harlequin Great Dane wearing a remote electric wireless collar and enjoying a creek!

    Myth #4: E-Collar training is not ‘science-based’

    Well, where do we start! Buckle up, this is a big one.

    Many ‘positive-only’ trainers claim to be ‘science-based’. This statement they use in their marketing comes from studies that have shown how positive reinforcement, aka “R+” (the quadrant, not the training method) is the most humane and effective technique for training new behaviors.

    We LOVE using R+ to instill tricks, obedience, and confidence!

    9 Tips to Having a Trained Great Dane with Balanced Training

    Positive reinforcement is not the same thing as ‘positive-only’ training, however.

    One is a key piece of operant conditioning and a huge part of any good training program. The latter (positive-only or force-free training) is a training method.

    e collar myths busted

    The training method of ‘positive-only’ uses a lot of R+ to reward behaviors.

    So does balanced training, actually.

    The best trainers use a lot of R+ in their techniques, no matter where they fall on the positive to balanced spectrum (and yes, there is a spectrum! No wonder dog training is so confusing to people).

    R+ is not some magical or exclusive gem that only “science-based positive trainers” use and live by.
    All good trainers use positive reinforcement whether they market themselves as ‘force-free’ or ‘balanced’.

    Catch our drift, yet? ‘Science-based’ has been diluted to a marketing term in this case, and as a truly science-based blog, that makes us uncomfortable!

    To better understand how canine learning science works, and why ‘balanced’ training is not abusive or inhumane as some people may have led you to believe, here is a little lesson for you!

    There are four quadrants of operant conditioning, and people (including ‘professionals’) misunderstand them often. We get it, these can be confusing. BUT, in the interest of science, we’re going to dig in!

    Here they are in layman’s terms!

    Dictionary, for the purpose of understanding the four quadrants of operant conditioning in dog training:

    POSITIVE = To add something
    NEGATIVE = To take something away
    REINFORCEMENT = To increase a behavior
    PUNISHMENT = To reduce a behavior

    Positive Reinforcement (R+) = The dog gets a treat for sitting

    Positive Punishment (P+) = The dog is hit in the face for barking

    Negative Reinforcement (R-) = A barrier is removed when the dog waits calmly to go outside

    Negative Punishment (P-) = Freedom is removed so the dog can’t run away

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    R+ should always be used to reward and encourage the repetition of all new skills!

    This includes the obedience commands sit, down, wait, leave it, come, heel and place.

    However, all dogs, even “good” ones, do things they shouldn’t do.

    That includes pulling, barking, lunging, bolting out the door, chasing cats, stealing food, jumping the fence, and running away.

    As a Great Dane owner, you have likely experienced some of this!

    Many of these things are unsafe and even life-threatening, however, they are all normal dog behaviors!

    The first step to combat this is, of course, using R+ to train the dog on what they should be doing instead. You cannot combat shenanigans unless you are willing to teach the dog with rewards, fun, praise and play what it should know!

    Pulling: teach heel with high-value treats
    Stealing: teach “leave-it” with a toy and some kibble
    Door Dashing: teach the dog to turn away from open doors

    Despite this training, however, many dogs will still unsafely bolt out a door, jump on somebody, pull on the lead after a squirrel, or blow off a recall…no matter how many treats you offer.

    You know, because…DOGS are DOGS and they are going to do doggie things!

    Did we mention this other scientific tidbit?
    For many dogs, chasing a squirrel or experiencing the freedom offered by door dashing is infinitely MORE rewarding than any treat you can offer.

    This leaves all dog lovers, even those who believe ONLY using ‘R+’, with two options to fix the problem:

    a. Negative Punishment: Remove choice, freedom, and access to things as a means to decrease something the dog does or is doing. This is essentially “management” to prevent behaviors and may need to be implemented for the life of the dog.

    AND / OR

    b. Positive Punishment: Add a correction (NO!) so the dog understands they cannot do something. A correction could be anything from a simple ‘ah ah’ to flat out hitting the dog in the face.

    Not all corrections have to be painful or abusive. If the bank give you a $35 fine (bummer!) for bouncing a check, they’ve used positive punishment. It didn’t hurt you, but it will make you think twice about forgetting to balance your checkbook again!

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    Punishment abounds in dog training whether people admit it or not. Here are some examples:

    Keeping a dog on a tether in a fenced yard because they escape (negative punishment)

    Putting a dog behind a gate because they jump on guests (negative punishment)

    A no-pull harness pulls the dog to the side if they lunge forward (positive punishment)

    Science-based fact: even ‘positive only’ and ‘force free’ people use punishment in their training. This includes the use of training tools that punish and reduce behaviors, despite their promotion that ‘all punishment is abusive‘. ?

    Another interesting science-based fact: modern E-Collar use relies primarily on negative reinforcement to reward and strengthen behaviors. Yay science!

    Good, thoughtful balanced E-Collar trainers rarely use their E-Collar for corrections (“positive punishment“). If they do, it’s most often as communication to immediately stop a dangerous or unsafe behavior in dogs that know what they should be doing instead.

    Unlike traditional punishment, this is one correction that a properly conditioned and trained dog knows how to respond to and control!

    There is nothing wrong with thoughtfully implemented corrections, including behavior management.

    Run from any “professional” trainer who tells you that all “balanced” professionals abuse, hurt and punish animals all day. This is misguided, uneducated, and inflammatory language.

    Run further if a professional will claim to “never use punishment, corrections, or ‘negative reinforcement’ of any kind“. That is a clear sign that they don’t actually understand science or how tools and techniques, including the tools that they use, actually work.

    Run just as far if the details they share indicate that you should shock, choke, kick, alpha-roll or hit to treat your dog’s reactivity. Remember, extremes are bad news!

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    Dogs have no clue why they are always on a long leash or never get to go on walks.

    Isolation, physical restraint, and restrictions are sometimes necessary, but they are not actually clear or fair communication when you really search and start to think about it.

    Strict behavioral management in the name of ‘errorless learning’ is the basis of ‘force-free’ training programs. Training dogs is so much more complicated than just ‘R+’, as you can see.

    The marketing of “force-free” dog training and its overwhelming reliance on management to avoid corrections can be just as inhumane and unfair to a dog as harsh and punitive shock punishments.

    It’s time we talk about that, folks!!!!

    18

    Good trainers will recognize that it requires skill to thoughtfully manage dog behavior, and will make the most ethical and humane choice for a dog between management and fair corrections.

    In other words, while behavior management is an important piece of the training puzzle, there are times when it’s more humane, ethical, and fair to use a correction (and communicate, fully) than it is to rely on confinement and restrictions.

    For example, just because a dolphin in captivity can be taught using ‘R+ only’, it doesn’t mean that keeping the dolphin in strict captivity is fair.

    A captive marine animal cannot exhibit natural behaviors such as hunting and freely swimming long distances. These are behaviors for which “R+” on its own would be wildly ineffective in reducing.

    These natural behaviors don’t have to be reduced because the animal is too confined to do them in the first place. It’s easy to avoid mistakes that happen with natural behavior when you don’t have the opportunity to act naturally in the first place.

    Millions of dogs are living the life of the captive dolphin because so many owners and dog professionals market the misguided idea that you should just further manage (restrict) your dog instead of correcting and communicating with them. It’s devastating.

    We are seeing an entirely new decade of methodology that believes pets must be babied and spoiled and never told ‘NO’.

    Many of these dogs are not going on walks, cannot be safely off-leash, have to be in a crate when guests come over, are not trusted around an open front door, have to be gated away from the kitchen and definitely do not get to go on so much as a picnic with their owner.

    We are seeing endemic levels of frustration-based anxiety and reactivity that have never been seen before in pet dogs.

    We think there is a problem here, and what’s ironic is that it takes behavior science (yes, science!) to fix it. When we are working with our dogs, it’s important to give them the information they need to make the right decisions. That means saying a LOT of ‘YES’ and also being ok with saying ‘NO’!

    Thoughtfully balanced training and e-collar use are, you guessed it, based on science.
    You can, in fact, say NO and hold your pet accountable without hurting, scaring, or abusing them.

    5

    Myth #5: E-Collar training will make your dog aggressive

    This goes with our science-based training information above.

    Aggression typically has roots in the following things: genetics, hormones, habit, poor socialization, past experiences, frustration, and fear.

    You can cause frustration and fear in a dog by alpha rolling them. You can also cause it by shocking or punishing your dog for reacting, especially without addressing the underlying root cause. You can even cause aggressive reactivity with poor leash handling, even if the dog is in a ‘harness’ and being fed piles of treats.

    Incorrect training of all types can cause aggression, modern positive E-Collar methods does not.

    Myth #6: E-Collars are for lazy people

    Balanced training using an E-Collar requires more time, more diligence, more educated ownership, and more attention to detail than people seem to be aware of.

    There is no such thing as a good, fair, humane, or truly effective training program that is “quick and easy”.

    Taking a dog off-leash, understanding dog interactions, training the dog what the language of their E-Collar means, using lots of praise, play, rewards, treats, freedom and toys, and giving a dog enrichment, opportunities, and experiences that most dogs never experience?

    We think that is far from lazy. Don’t fall for the negative marketing!

    Why should I use an E-Collar?

    We believe that all Great Danes should be E-Collar trained because it’s the most humane way to remove the reliance on physical restraints (including head collars, harnesses, and collars) that can cause harm, frustration, injury, and damage.

    Giant breed dogs are strong and powerful; if you are relying solely on your ability to physically overpower and restrain your dog with some kind of physical device such as a collar or harness, you are setting both you and your dog up for failure.

    Off-leash freedom is just one benefit; having an amazing relationship with your dog and being able to control your giant anywhere at any time, even on a flat collar alone, are key reasons to choose modern, positive balanced low-stim E-Collar training.

    When your dog understands what is expected of them, and what they can and cannot do, you’ll be giving them a precious gift that will help them thrive.

    You can train your dog to walk politely on a leash using an E-Collar or a humane Herm Sprenger prong collar. Leash walking can be a tough skill to work on when your Dane can overpower you without even trying!

    These tools will give you a gentle and effective way to communicate so that actual living and enjoying every moment of life can begin.

    How long does it take to train with an E-Collar?

    It depends on how good of a trainer you are, and how much of a foundation you’ve already installed using positive training techniques.

    A dog that has 60% recall can be safely off-leash with 100% recall in their E-Collar within weeks, following the positive conditioning process.

    A dog that is wild, frustrated, lunging, destructive, shut down, anxious, and even aggressive will require more time. We recommend working with a highly qualified positive-balanced trainer to address the root cause of these behaviors.

    How do you train with an E-Collar?

    When you teach your dog with an E-Collar, you start by using positive R+ training to teach basic commands such as sit, down, leave it, place and COME!

    Then you find your dog’s “working-level”. This is the lowest level of stimulation that they respond to.

    Most dogs are responsive and enthusiastic to learn on a Mini-Educator at between a level 3 and 7.
    Humans typically cannot even feel the same sensation until the remote has been dialed up to a level 12 or even 20.

    They always report surprise that the stimulation, once they do feel it, is both nearly imperceptible and non-aversive!

    This response is paired with treats, so the dog learns that when they feel that, good things happen.

    Through a process of conditioning from that point forward, the dog learns to control when the stimulation is on or off and learns that they can turn it off themselves.

    By using the continuous button instead of the tap button, the stimulation can then be applied as a constant sensation paired with a command such as ‘come’, and then immediately removed when the dog begins to recall.

    This is also known as ‘negative reinforcement’ and is a very simple and rewarding ‘pressure on, pressure off’ communication that mirrors leash pressure, just without the leash.

    This allows you to communicate with your dog by ‘touching’ them, which can be insanely helpful for deaf dogs, dogs with ‘selective hearing’ or when you are in noisy environments such as the beach.

    Higher levels are used in higher-distraction environments, just like your friend might have to speak louder to communicate with you in a noisy bar vs. when you are at home. Higher levels aren’t necessarily more aversive!

    The stimulation from a modern E-Collar replaces prong, head halter, long line and harness pressure so that you and your pet can enjoy safe movement free of restraint.

    Does this gentle simulation annoy the dog? Sure. That’s one reason it works. Just like your ringing cell phone makes you pick it up and answer. The timer on your oven makes you get up and take the cookies out. Your pants getting too tight makes you undo the button. All of these activities are first annoying and second, inherently rewarding!

    Pressure does not have to hurt or be painful to be effective at changing your behavior.

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    Is Larry Krohn a good dog trainer?

    Larry Krohn is our recommendation for learning about positive E-Collar dog training.

    You can watch some of our favorite videos from his YouTube channel below! YouTube is a great resource for both good and bad methods, so here are some trainer channels that we do and don’t recommend as well.

    YES:
    Larry Krohn
    Tom Davis
    Leerburg


    NO:
    Jeff Gellman (too much compulsion and flooding)
    Cesar Milan (outdated intimidation ‘dominance’ method)
    Most franchise-based trainer companies (unreliable, tend to be heavily punishment-based)

    What kind of E-Collar does Larry Krohn use?

    Larry Krohn uses and recommends the same collars that we do, by Educator technologies! You can purchase them from us below, with free U.S. Shipping and email support during training.

  • Proper E Collar Placement on Your Dog: Are You Failing With This Simple Trick?

    Proper E Collar Placement on Your Dog: Are You Failing With This Simple Trick?

    When it comes to using an e collar on your dog, there is a right and wrong way to do it.

    Do you feel like giving up using e collars to train your dog? Is it just not working. Well, we have one last thing for you to try before you call it quits with your training.

    Pet owners who gear up to use a training collar often find themselves frustrated, stating that their training goals aren’t going as planned.

    Improper placement of the e collar is one of the BIGGEST problems with your dogs training. A proper fit on your dog’s neck should be the FIRST STEP in e collar training.

    Let’s get started.

    IS THERE A PROPER E COLLAR PLACEMENT ON DOGS?

    Absolutely. All collars should have a good fit, but when using a collar for dog training it is even more important to have a proper fit.

    What problems can you encounter if you have your dog wear their e collar improperly?

    1. You notice your dog regularly act non-responsive when you are using stimulation
    2. You realize that sometimes your dog responds and sometimes they do not
    3. Your dog is losing interest in the training collar
    4. Your dog has zero recall
    5. Your dog is yelping
    6. You seem to think ‘I have no idea if this thing is working’ often

    If you notice any of these problems- you might have missed an important e collar detail: proper contact and a snug fit.

    e collar placement

    HOW DO I MAKE SURE THAT THE COLLAR FITS MY DOG?

    The way that e collar dog training works is from the communication between the remote and the points that rest on your Great Dane’s skin.

    e collar placement

    When you push the button on the remote, you should rely on your dog’s collar to send stimulation to their skin, alerting them that you are attempting to communicate with them.

    If these contacts do not fit snugly on your dog’s neck, they will not send proper stimulation, or any at all for that matter.

    Even if just one of the contact points touches your dog’s neck, but not both, your dog will receive NO sign or indication from the collar.

    Therefore, if you do not make sure that the collar is extremely snug on your dog, making contact with its skin and not just it’s hair, it will feel ABSOLUTELY NOTHING at all.

    CONTACT POINTS ON YOUR GREAT DANE’S SKIN

    Contact points are the two metal pieces that come in touch with your Great Dane’s skin when you are using the e collar.

    They should fit snug on your dog’s neck, right behind their ears.

    You will want to make sure that these contact points have direct contact with your Great Dane’s skin and not just their fur.

    If they do not have direct and physical touch to the skin, your dog will not feel the stimulation and it will be as if you never even pushed the button on the remote.

    MY DOG IS YELPING WHEN WEARING ITS COLLAR

    If you notice that your Great Dane is yelping when wearing the e collar, you should question the position in which you have the collar.

    If your dog leans downward, for example, it creates space between the collar and the neck. But when it leans back up right, the position of the collar is altered.

    Therefore, when using a level, let’s say 20, your dog will not feel the stim at all while leaning downward, but will be taken completely off guard when leaning upward.

    The yelping is probably a result of incorrect position of the collar: a complete surprise at the sudden sensation upon finally feeling the point.

    MY DOG HAS PRESSURE SORES UNDERNEATH ITS FUR / ON ITS NECK

    If you notice your dog has developed pressure sores, it is likely from the e collar being too loose on their neck or you are wearing the wrong points.

    PROPERLY FIT E COLLARS WILL NOT CREATE IRRITATION

    As we stated before, the points must have direct contact with the skin and feel almost uncomfortably (to you) tight in order for proper stimulation to be felt.

    A loose fit will cause the metal pieces to slide around on your dog’s neck. If the collar constantly rubs through your dog’s coat and hair- it can cause extreme skin irritation.

    Work to tighten your collar strap until you can just fit two fingers underneath of the collar strap and the neck.

    The collar should feel very tight and have no ‘wiggle room’.

    ARE YOU USING THE RIGHT LENGTH OF CONTACT POINT?

    There are different lengths of points which should be chosen wisely for good contact on skin.

    1. For example: Short-haired dogs will need the shortest points so that the metal has direct contact with their skin.
    2. On the other hand, long-haired dogs will need longer metal pieces to make sure the stim is not being lost in all of the fur.

    Great Danes have very short / thin hair, and therefore usually the point that works best for them is the ¼ inch.

    The next size up would be the ½ inch and so on. The longest point is usually no longer than one inch in length and would be for a pet with long hair, whereas the shortest contact points are 1/4 inch.

    Comfort Pads

    Comfort pads can be the answer to a lot of problems. Comfort pads are small, rubber discs that go in-between the points and your Great Dane’s body.

    This provides a buffer between the metal piece and your dog’s body. It also helps with making sure the contact points do not get lost in all of the fur (as we discussed before).

    If you have a pup with very sensitive skin, a short coat, or you are just trying to avoid any irritation, comfort pads may be the way to go.

    WHERE DOES THE E COLLAR GO ON MY DOGS NECK?

    The e collar should be positioned with the strap snug around your dog’s head, right behind their ears.

    You will want to make sure that the contact points have direct contact with your dog’s skin and not just their fur.

    If they do not have direct contact, your Great Dane will not feel the stimulation and it will be as if you never even pushed the button on the remote.

    The best place to keep the collar is on it’s head, right behind one of the ears. If the collar hangs in the front of the neck, skin can become easily irritated.

    SHOULD MY GREAT DANE WEAR THE COLLAR ALL THE TIME?

    The answer to this question is usually no. You should only put the e collar on your Great Dane when you are actively training them or if they are in a situation where they may need a communication (i.e. if they are about to run into the street) or you’d like them to recall.

    You should remove the collar every few hours to ensure that your dog’s skin does not become irritated.

    It is also a good idea to remove the collar when your dog is eating or drinking so that they do not get food or water on the contact points (which can cause irritation) and so that they can have full range of their body.

    THE FINAL STEP

    After you have double-checked that the contact points are properly fitted that the strap is snug but not too tight, and that you are using the correct length of contact point- it’s time to put the e collar on your dog and start training!

    Check out our guide for more detail on how to begin working with an e collar!

  • How to Use an E Collar: A Personal Memoir to the Shock Collar and My Path to Finding the E Collar

    How to Use an E Collar: A Personal Memoir to the Shock Collar and My Path to Finding the E Collar

    My road to the e collar was definitely not clear cut: I had absolutely no idea how to use an e collar. Heck, I didn’t even know what an e collar was.

    What I did know was that I had two Great Dane puppies who were 8 weeks old. They were supposed to be sweet, charming, and adorable. But instead, all they were doing was ripping up my carpet, eating my bedroom walls, peeing EVERYWHERE, and destroying my house.

    Meet Banks and Roo:

    HOW TO USE AN E COLLAR

    Yes- I ripped out my carpet within a few months and opted for Pergo (Thanks Home Depot!)

    To say I had a bad day was an understatement.

    These puppies were quickly turning into horses. What the heck was I going to do with them when they were in complete control over me- and not the other way around.

    4

    My Journey to Learning How to Use an E Collar

    I had no idea what e collar training was.

    I didn’t even know how, when, or what to feed these dogs.

    Give them a treat and they should listen right? All the rest should fall into place?

    Wrong.

    Their behavior was getting worse.

    My Dog Ate My Carpet

    First, my sweet female Great Dane, named Banks, decided to eat my carpet.

    She thought it was fun.

    ‘Other dogs don’t do this’, I thought. Dog training is supposed to be about sitting, laying, basic things- everyday life. Not how to stop eating carpet!

    I was horrified.

    My Immediate and Irrational Use of a Shock Collar

    In my horror, I immediately did what many, many dog owners do.

    I resorted to Amazon.

    ‘Training collar’, ‘Electronic Collars’, ‘Shock Collar‘- I begin frantically tapping faster than my fingers could even type.

    And up popped a ‘perfect’ remote training collar- only $25! Since I was buying 2, I KNEW they had to be affordable.

    Amazon prime? Even better-

    Order placed! Soon my dogs will be wearing this electronic collar EVERYWHERE they go- and they will be perfectly behaved because of it.

    Why Their Shock Collars Did Not Work

    I couldn’t wait to open up their new shock collars.

    Before I could barely throw away the bubble wrap, the collar was on the dog’s neck.

    ‘Zap!’ I thought as I begin tapping and pushed the button.

    The dogs looked at me with a hurt and betrayed look in their eyes. They had no idea what they did wrong, but they knew mommy was mad. And that’s all that mattered to them.

    Banksy curled under my legs, even though I wanted her to sit. Roo ran upstairs, even though in my mind he was going to lay down.

    Where was their perfect behavior?

    Learning that Shock Collars are NOT It

    I started to sweat. My dog was stressing. I was stressing.

    My dog was not giving me any behavior or indication that they were about to listen… WHY! WHY. What is it going to take to get these dogs to drop the undesirable behavior and actually start to listen?

    The Reality Sinks In

    As my dog sat and stared at me, I stop tapping the handheld remote.

    This animal in front of me has absolutely NO idea what I’m saying- I think.

    How do I speak ‘dog’? Frantic panic sets in. I looked down at the shock collar. Well, I know electric shock collars are NOT working. Positive reinforcement, by itself, is NOT working. I’m losing control, and it’s happening fast.

    With this feeling of losing control of my dogs behavior…. I start to search for answers.

    In my search- I realized that the shock collar didn’t work because it wasn’t paired with anything else.

    I didn’t know how to use the collar, when to use it, or what it was for.

    To them, the shock collar was just a terrible sensation on their neck with absolutely NO meaning. My dog’s sensitivity was more important to me than anything else.

    I had to find a better training program, and I had to do it quickly!

    Discovering The E Collar Training Process

    Back to the drawing board, I needed to find something my dogs would actually respond to.

    I had to get creative.

    The answer?

    Although it took months to find, I found what works best for me and my dogs: combination of an e collar and positive reinforcement.

    This is called balanced training, and you can find many professional dog training companies or an individual trainer who are willing to help you through balanced training for your dog.

    I began to research e collar training and discovered that the remote training collar (shock collar) that I had purchased was VERY different than an e collar.

    I had ZERO idea that there was a difference- but the difference in collars was MONUMENTAL.

    It all started to make sense, and I knew it was right for both my dogs and for me.

    What is an Electronic Collar?

    An e collar is a remote training collar that does NOT use shock.

    Additionally, unlike the use of a shock collar, trainers who use an e collar encourage you to use the collar CORRECTLY.

    I noticed an immediate shift in training discussions around e collar dog training vs. shock collar dog training.

    More on that soon, but first: WHAT IS IT AND WHY IS IT SO DIFFERENT?

    WHAT IS INSIDE OF AN E COLLAR?

    The e collar has a receiver and a transmitter.

    The receiver is the portion of the e collar that goes on your dog’s neck, and the transmitter is the handheld device that you, the owner or trainer, will use.

    Some e collars have one button while others may have multiple buttons for different stimulation types (we’ll get to that in a bit).

    THE RECEIVER

    The receiver has two main parts: the prongs and the contact points.

    THE PRONGS

    The prongs are what touch your dog’s skin and deliver the stimulation. The contact points are what make contact with your dog’s skin.

    There are three different types of e collar prongs on these training collars: short, medium, and long.

    The type of prong that you will use is dependent on your dog’s coat type.

    SHORT PRONGS: These are best for dogs with short coats because they make direct contact with the skin.

    MEDIUM PRONGS: These are best for dogs with medium-length coats because they still make direct contact with the skin but are not as likely to irritate.

    LONG PRONGS: These are best for dogs with long coats because they make indirect contact from the contact points with the skin and are less likely to irritate.

    ELECTRIC STIMULATION: Most importantly, the receiver delivers the electric stimulation to your dog. Stimulation is NOT the same as shock, which was in the original collars I had bought for my dogs.

    The stimulation is a very low-level electrical impulse that feels similar to a static shock that you would feel if you touched something and then touched someone else.

    The sensation is not painful, but it is noticeable.

    A VARIETY OF LEVELS IN YOUR DOG COLLAR (1-100)

    Some e collars have multiple levels of stimulation while others only have one. (You should look for remote training collars that offer 100 levels of stimulation). The level in which one dog might feel the stimulation differs from dog to dog. One dog might feel the stimulation at a level 4, whereas another dog might feel the stimulation at a level 20. This is called the working level of a dog and is one reason why it is important that your collar offers so many varying levels.

    The level of stimulation that you use is dependent on your dog’s size, age, and sensitivity.

    THE TRANSMITTER OTHERWISE KNOWN AS THE HANDHELD REMOTE

    The transmitter is the handheld device that you will use to deliver the electric stimulation to your dog.

    As I mentioned before, some transmitters have one button while others may have multiple.

    The e collar technology device has a different amount of buttons, depending on which unit you purchase.

    Typically- your e collar device will have a stimulation button, a noise / beep button, and a ‘vibrate’ button.

    YOUR COLLAR HAS A STIMULATION BUTTON

    The stimulation button is, by far, the most talked about button by owners and ethical trainers in dog training.

    Stimulation (e stim) is the same exact unit found in a ‘tens’ machine at the chiropractor. In other words, it’s actually HEALTHY for your dogs neck!

    Why not receive some healthy boosts to your neck WHILE training? It all made sense to me.

    YOUR COLLAR HAS A VIBRATE BUTTON

    The vibrate button on the transmitter is used to deliver a ‘warning’ to your dog before any stimulation is even delivered.

    Hypothetically, dog owners believe that the vibrate is a feature that you can “train your dog without ever having to use the stimulation”, somewhat of a ‘warning’.

    I, however, have found the vibration MUCH more aversive to getting my dog’s attention than typical stim e collar use.

    Every dog’s behaviors are different, and while some dogs might thrive with the use of the vibrate feature in different situations, the vibrate causes unnecessary stress to my own dogs.

    YOUR COLLAR HAS A BEEP / NOSE BUTTON

    The beep / noise button on the transmitter is used to deliver a ‘warning’ to your dog before any stimulation is even delivered.

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    Additionally, the beep can be used to target a specific behavior in your dog. For example, if your dog understands that the beep means you want them to demonstrate the behavior of ‘sit’, then you can use the beep as a marker for that specific behavior.

    The beep is also used in e collar training to ‘mark’ a desired behavior. For example, if your dog is running towards you and you want him to stop, you can press the button on the transmitter which will emit a beeping noise, prompting them to sit.

    All in all, the buttons mean what YOU want them to mean.

    Each behavior of your dog can be depicted with any button: as long as you have given your dog clear instructions and communication as to WHAT that sensation or noise actually means.

    If you’d like the beep to mean sit, then train your dog that the beep means sit.

    If you want the vibration to mean ‘watch me’, then train your dog that the vibration means ‘watch me’.

    The beauty of these devices is that they are versatile and can be used for a variety of different behaviors.

    It is simply up to you, as the owner and trainer, to be clear in your communication with your dog surrounding that particular behavior.

    E COLLAR FITTING & PLACEMENT

    When you are beginning dog training with e collars, one important step that many dog owners forget, is how to fit the collar on your dog.

    Trainers will point out that this is one of the MOST important parts of using these collars.

    HOW SHOULD PROPERLY FITTED E COLLARS FIT ON MY DOG’S NECK?

    The answer is VERY tight!

    Uncomfortably tight- in your eyes!

    Your dog has hair, and A LOT of it! Remember all of that shedding? YEAH…

    That’s a lot of hair.

    All that hair can actually act as an insulator between the probes on the collar and your dog’s skin, making the electric stimulation much less effective.

    A properly fitted e collar should be so tight that you cannot fit more than ONE FINGER underneath it. That’s it! Just one finger.

    You want the probes on the e collar to be touching your dog’s skin at all times in order for the electric current to flow properly.

    If you can fit more than one finger under the strap, it is too loose and needs to be adjusted.

    You can also use something called comfort pads, underneath the prongs, which helps keep the collar snug and in place.

    WHERE SHOULD MY DOGS COLLAR BE PLACED AROUND THEIR NECK?

    A professional trainer skilled in using e collars will tell you to place the e collars directly behind your dogs ear, tightly enough that you can only fit one finger in between the strap and your dog’s neck at any point.

    We’ve all seen those dogs who have the large, dangling e collar straps- and that is NOT how it should be!

    Tight and snug right on the neck of your dog, behind one ear or the other of your dog- is the best place for canine stimulation to happen and where you will find the most success with getting your dog to respond.

    HIRING A PROFESSIONAL TRAINER WHO WORKS WITH E COLLARS

    Hiring a trainer who has experience using a remote collar, prides themselves in positive reinforcement and is eager to help you work with your dog on correcting behaviors as well as rewarding behaviors is DEFINITELY nothing to be ashamed of.

    You want to be able to trust the person you are working with, and if that means finding someone who is experienced and passionate about helping dog owners- then do it!

    The best part about finding great trainers in your area, is that they will not only be able to show you how to use the equipment but can also help you troubleshoot any issues you may have along the way.

    A good trainer will be able to teach you how to properly fit the collar on your dog, how to effectively use the buttons on the transmitter and can give you tips and tricks for different behaviors that you may want to work on with your dog.

    Remote training collars / e collars are a great tool for dog owners- when used correctly. And furthermore, training your dog with the eyes of other people, trainers included, is ALWAYS a positive.

    Remember to be clear in your communication with your dog, take the time to find a trainer who can help you if needed and make sure that the collar is fitted snugly and behind your dogs ears!

    WHERE TO START USING A REMOTE COLLAR AT HOME?

    If you are confident that you’d like to begin using a training collar to work on getting your dog e collar trained, first of all CONGRATULATIONS!

    There are some exciting things ahead for both you and your dogs.

    7

    STEP 1: WORK WITH YOUR DOG ON BASIC COMMANDS

    You absolutely need to train your dogs basic commands before beginning working to get them trained on e collars.

    This was one of the major mistakes that I made- and a huge pain point for me and my dogs.

    77

    5 Common mistakes you may be making when Training Your Great Dane

    Some skills you need to lead your dog through, BEFORE using collars are:

    1. Leash skills– walking, sitting, staying
    2. Recall– coming when called
    3. Impulse control- waiting at doors/thresholds, not jumping up on people
    4. Potty training (any animal should be potty trained before beginning higher level commands or being asked to have the ability to learn training with training collars)
    5. Their name- Teaching your dog their name is an ABSOLUTE MUST.

    You need to be able to have a clear understanding and communication with your dog before you begin using any type of electronic collar.

    STEP 2: FIND YOUR DOG’S WORKING LEVEL

    A ‘working level’ is the level of stimulation that your dog will respond to without hesitation.

    The goal is NOT to get your dog to yelp or cry out in pain, the goal is to find a level where your dog takes notice and responds accordingly.

    This may take some time and you may have to experiment with different levels before you find what works best for your dog.

    A good tip is to start at a lower level than you think- it is always easier to go up in levels of stimulation than it is to come back down.

    Typically, a normal canine working level is below a level 10.

    Begin tapping on the stim button, at a level 1. If you notice that your dog moves any part of it’s neck / shoulder or looks in your direction- STOP TAPPING- you have found its working level.

    If you do not notice any sense of them feeling it, do the same thing on level 2. Continue to increase in level until you’ve seen any indication that your pet feels the stim. That is when you have found the working level.

    If at ANY time you feel like your dog is in pain- stop all training and lower the stim immediately. E collar training is NOT supposed to cause pain!

    STEP 3: INTRODUCE YOUR DOG TO THE E COLLARS BY USING THEIR NAME

    Like mentioned, your dog MUST have the ability to know their name.

    how to use an e collar

    If they do not respond to their name, back up- and begin working with them to target behavior of gaining eye contact when you say their name.

    Otherwise, get ready to teach your dog what the e collar MEANS by using their ability to know and respond to their name.

    First, you will want to put the e collar on your dog.

    I like to do this while they are eating their kibble or a treat so that they make an association with the collar being put on = good things happening.

    Once the e collar is on, you will take a few steps away from your dog and say their name in a happy voice.

    When they look at you, immediately press the button on the transmitter (at their working level- the lowest possible level) so that they feel static stimulation on their neck.

    Do this a few times until your dog begins to turn their head towards you when you say their name.

    This routine training period should be repeated daily for about a week- as your canine buddy learns to associate their name with the e collar stim and also- best of all- with YOUR EYES.

    STEP 2: BEGIN WORKING ON A LONG LEASH / LEAD WITH YOUR DOG

    Using a long lead to teach your canine positive learned behaviors with a leash and electronic training collars is a huge skill.

    Using a long lead, find a safe area like your backyard (away from other dogs).

    Attach the long lead to your dogs e collar- making sure that there is plenty of room for your dog to walk around on the lead.

    You should be able to feel the leash moving with your dog as they move.

    I like to use a six-foot lead for this so that I have some room to work, but you can start with whatever length / distance you find most comfortable.

    PLAYING THE ‘HOT AND COLD’ GAME

    Begin holding down the continuous stim (at their working level and at the same time, call your dogs name from a distance and say ‘come’.

    If your dog follows this command and immediately comes towards you, start dropping the stim level lower (going ‘colder’).

    If they do NOT follow this command, begin to slowly increase the stim (going ‘hotter’) until your dog begins lowering the distance between you and them.

    As soon as their body moves CLOSER in distance towards you (an act that they are beginning to follow the ‘come’ command, you should say ‘YES’ and begin lowering (colder).

    Continue this pattern until your dog is coming towards you quickly, at which point you can start to decrease the length of the leash.

    I like to do this training in baby steps- so if my dog is on a six-foot lead, I will lower it down to a five-foot lead and work with them there for a few days before going down to a four-foot lead, and so forth.

    The goal is for your dog to be able to respond quickly on a verbal command with little to no stim needed (from you).

    This will take some time and patience, but it is SO worth it in the end!

    LEASH TRAINING YOUR DOG USING TRAINING COLLARS

    The great thing about using e collars for leash training is that you can get your dog used to the feel of the collar around their neck as well as begin working on getting them used to wearing a leash- all while staying in the safety and comfort of your own home!

    Start by putting the e collar on your dog and attaching the leash or long slip lead. This period of training works best with a long leash- here are a few of my favorites:

    I like to do this while they are eating their kibble or a treat so that they make an association with the collar being put on = good things happening.

    Once the e collar is on and the leash is attached, you will begin training them to walk on leash with their learned behaviors of the e collar.

    Allow your Great Dane to have a loose leash- leash tension is a sign of your pet pulling, and will want to tackle that with training.

    Target behavior of walking calmly next to your side by continuing to play the ‘hot and cold’ game with your dog. As your pup walks next to you, if they begin to walk in front of you, dial up/hot, as they walk back into stride next to you, dial down/cold.

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    This form of communication in training will let your dog know that they are doing what you want them to do- without having to use any physical corrections.

    Remember, the goal is for your dog to be able to walk on a loose leash by your side with little to no stim needed from you!

    STEP 3: DEVELOP A FOOD REWARD SYSTEM

    Balanced training means to not only use corrections but also to reward your dog when they are doing what you want them to do.

    I like to keep things simple and use kibble for rewards during training sessions, but not ALL the time. Using kibble as your ONLY means of reward has the POSSIBILITY of your dog beginning to rely on the yummy item, rather than falling back onto their obedience training.

    When using treats, a bag can be a sweet way to maintain control over the leash and dog, while also keeping something yummy around your waist.

    Here are some of my favorites:

    REWARD ALWAYS!

    That does NOT mean that you should only reward your dog sometimes!

    Rewards come in MANY different forms such as :

    1. Treats
    2. Kibble
    3. Praise
    4. Verbal commands followed by an energetic hug or excited ‘good job’
    5. An excited pet
    6. Simply taking a break to rest, sit and lather attention on your pup

    You can (and should) use a combination of ALL these forms of rewards during your dog’s training! This will help to keep things fun and interesting for both you AND your pup!

    Here are my all time favorite treats!

    Remember, the goal is to find what motivates YOUR dog, mix things up with every command / reward, and to make training fun!

    THE PROCESS TAKES PATIENCE AND PERSISTENCE

    I’ve come a LONG way in my training process with my pups.

    I had to really search for what worked best for us, and that took time, patience and consistency.

    But it was SO worth it in the end!

    I hope this guide has helped you to learn a little bit more about e collars and how to use them during your dog’s training journey! If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to check out our e collar training guide! I love hearing from you all!

    Happy Training! 🙂

    READ MORE:

    EZ Educator ET-900 E-Collar Review For Great Dane Owners