If your Great Dane puppy is growling, snarling or snapping to protect food, a bed or a toy, you’ve come to the right place!
Today we are talking about how to stop a Great Dane puppy from resource guarding, AND how to prevent resource guarding (protecting valued items such as food, toys, treats, people and spaces) in the first place.
It’s important to note that resource guarding is a natural behavior, and one that can also be dangerous, especially as Great Danes grow to be so large.
Read on for more information!
WORST ADVICE EVER
Allow me to share with you the absolute WORST advice that you can give or receive, when it comes to preventing and treating resource guarding.
DO NOT DO THESE THINGS:
Stick your hands in the bowl and mess with the food so the dog gets ‘used to it’
Have children mess with the dog’s food
Take bones and treats away from the dog and give them back, so the dog learns to give it up
Have children take bones and treats from the dog for the same reason
Hit, whap, alpha roll, scold, pinch, jab, intimidate, correct or punish a dog that is guarding an item.
There. We said it. That old advice is BAD.
We are seriously OVER IT with these outdated, misguided and dangerous old ideas.
Why is that?
Because every single one of those things can actually causeand increaseresource guarding! If you want to get bit by your Great Dane, this is how you (or your children) get bit.
Read on for more scientific, up-to-date training information on resource guarding and Great Danes!
SUBTLE SIGNS OF RESOURCE GUARDING
Growls and snapping are rarely out of the blue. Watch for these cues, in escalating order:
Stiffness, breath holding
‘Side-Eye’, lip licking
Cowering, hunching over
Averting the head away or using it to ‘hide’ the item, including running away with it
Dogs most often guard food and high value treats such as bones and chews. However, they can guard toys, bedding, furniture. and even people!
Many people believe that their dog is protecting them, when the reality is that dog may be resource guarding them. Keep this in mind if you see some of these behaviors popping up in your own dog.
Some dogs are more prone to resource guarding than others, especially dogs from poorly-tempered parents, unethical breeders, bad breeding situations and many rescue situations.
It is a natural instinct that according to science, has literally NOTHING to do with ‘dominance’.
PREVENT RESOURCE GUARDING
The first step to preventing a Great Dane puppy from resource guarding in the first place is to make sure that the behavior is not practiced.
Give your dog a safe space to eat, get away from chaos, and enjoy high-value treats and bones.
Don’t give your dog a reason to guard items in the first place. No pressure, no intimidation, no messing with it.
Teach your dog that you approaching them when they have food or treats is a positive thing!
Don’t use old techniques that prove to them, without a doubt, that their concerns about you taking things away are valid.
Teach positive behavior skills (see below).
ALWAYS TRADE UP
If you approach your puppy that is eating, simply walk by and drop a high value treat, such as boiled chicken from your pocket. Walk off, no big deal.
The young dog quickly learns that you coming into their space while they eat is a positive thing. Watch the subtle body language and use your judgement. After a few repetitions, you can take your hand and place the chicken in the bowl while they eat, SAFELY, and your hand may actually be welcomed there!
That is, of course if you really think it’s *that* important to stick your hands in your dog’s food in the first place.
Hands in bowl = good things happen, not hands in bowl = bad things.
Contrary to popular belief, that bite of chicken is not rewarding the dog for guarding. It actually can’t, because that’s not how emotions and psychology works.
IT’S SO SIMPLE.
Studies show that confrontational training methods increase aggression.
It’s true. Many people may think they’ve been effective in shutting down a behavior problem by punishing a dog for growling, but what they’ve really done is taught the dog that growling is not an acceptable communication.
So the dog doesn’t growl. But what comes after growling? Oh that’s right…snarling, snapping and bites. The underlying behavior and emotion hasn’t been addressed, and the dog may become more unstable.
Confrontational, outdated training methods can make dogs less safe and less predictable, and that’s a scientifically proven fact.
TRAIN YOUR DOG. TEACH LEAVE IT AND DROP IT
Leave it and Drop it are effective communications to a dog that mean so much more than just shouting ‘NO’. All dogs should know these commands.
Leave it and Drop it are EASY to teach and will be especially important for dogs that seem to be more prone to resource guarding in the first place.
OFF is an important command for dogs that guard furniture and bedding.
OUT, BACK UP, PLACE or CRATE UP is a good command for dogs that guard people and spaces.
Manage your dog and teach them boundaries from a young age. Do not allow these behaviors to develop or to be practiced in the first place.
Need resources for teaching those commands? YOUTUBE has a wealth of information. We recommend Kikopup, Larry Krohn and Steve Mann.
A dog cannot resource guard if they’ve been given clear communication about what they SHOULD be doing instead. Training these commands is a key piece in establishing harmony and safety between dogs and humans.
THINK OF IT THIS WAY
You are starving and have a piece of pizza.
I walk up, take it from you, mess with it, and give it back. I jab you in the side and tell you to shut up when you yell at me for it.
How do you feel about me? How do you feel about me approaching you the next time you have food?
NEW SCENARIO
Let’s try this again. You have pizza and are concerned I may take it.
I walk by and give you $5. FREE. Dropped on the floor at your feet. A few hours later, I do it again.
Did I just reward you for your concerns, or are you starting to believe that me coming by when you have pizza is quite alright?
DOGS ARE NOT DUMB AND MODERN BEHAVIOR SCIENCE IS REALLY, REALLY COOL.
If you have a dog that is already resource guarding and showing signs of being unsafe around humans, children or other dogs we highly recommend doing the following things:
a. Contact your breeder, if your dog was purchased. They should know that resource guarding may be happening in their lines, and may have (hopefully modern) advice to give.
b. QUICKLY contact a trainer and get professional help.
c. Prevent the behavior by limiting access to guarded items and providing a safe space for dogs to eat and relax. This may mean no more bones, no access to the couch, etc.
d. Train and install other behaviors: off, leave it, drop it, crate, wait, etc.
e. Stop fussing with the dog and trying to ‘correct’ or fix the behavior.
The truth is that sometimes, we actually cause this behavior to increase by putting too much pressure onto them.
Now, of course you don’t want an aggressive dog! This is exactly why preventing the behavior and lowering the stress surrounding the emotions that cause it is the most important step. Don’t increase aggression by being confrontational.
DON’T CREATE A GUARDING PROBLEM.
Here is a wonderful video from balanced dog trainer Larry Krohn on resource guarding that addresses EVERYTHING we mentioned in this post today.
Beware of Sit Happens, LLC Dog Training in Aurora, CO. Pepper Greggs (the owner) has been caught on film by a neighbor, and the evidence of abuse is unmistakable.
When we say that you need to be choosy about the dog trainers you work with, this is why!
Pepper Joy Greggs has been wildly popular in the Denver area Great Dane Community and offers free training events, dog training classes and private lessons, boarding, board and train and AKC Canine Good Citizen evaluations. She also moderates for the local Great Dane community on Facebook.
All things that make her appear to be reputable and ethical.
However, this video of her outright abusing a dog leaves no room for misinterpretation.
This video was taken by a neighbor who claims that this is not an isolated incident.
It was shared by the owner of the dog, a young Brindle Great Dane that was in boarding this week with Pepper Greggs at Sit Happens, LLC. The dog is clearly terrified.
In the video you can see the dog trainer hit the dog multiple times. She also yanks the dog around by the leash. Twice, she strings the dog up by the neck.
Now, if you are a Dane lover (as we are), you know that Danes are sensitive, both emotionally and orthopedically.
It will be a miracle if this dog doesn’t have lasting temperament, behavioral and physical problems at the hands of this abuse.
We watched this video many, MANY times before deciding if we were ‘overreacting’ or not.
We never want to sink the reputation of somebody that made a simple mistake.
This was not a simple mistake. Many people get frustrated and angry in life; they take it out on a wall, do some art or scrub their house. They never take it out on a defenseless animal.
ABUSE CAN NEVER BE MISTAKEN FOR TRAINING
Unfortunately for the dog that is in this video, there is no mistake. The dog is being abused.
Behavior science tells us, however, that severe, punitive, harsh physical punishment contributes to stress, fear, frustration, confusion and aggression. By putting actual science before the opinion of a person that was willing to do this to a dog in the first place, we can see just how wrong it really is.
There is no justification for doing this to a dog, to any dog. Especially not when you consider that Great Danes are prone to wobblers, degenerative spinal disorders, orthopedic problems and bloat (which is often related to stress).
Pepper, the owner of Sit Happens, LLC in Colorado is an AKC Evaluator (Canine Good Citizen) and as of this writing has 4 surrendered Dane puppies in her care, plus boarding clients. We’ve reported the video to the AKC and have heard that the surrendered puppies are being removed.
As you can see Pepper has established herself as a ‘professional’, leaving many people upset that they were lied to.
(Update: ALL the puppies now have loving homes, YAY!)
AN IMPORTANT NOTE FROM HELLO DANES
We have received several reports that Pepper is being bullied by the community.
Threatening Pepper and her family, calling her house, visiting her house, sending her messages, commenting on her personal social media accounts, sending unsolicited messages to random members in the online Great Dane community, leaving one-star reviews and being hateful directly towards her is NO BETTER than what she did to this dog. Be a good person, folks.
Do NOT be a vigilante! Do NOT be a bully! Be an adult, please.
Share positively to help educate people on this problem as it relates to dog training as a whole. Help educate people about what to look for in a dog trainer, but do NOT take your frustrations out on Pepper herself. Bullying is not an appropriate response. She is facing legal challenges as a result of this and the law will take care of it.
Hello Danes does NOT stand behind or condone the practices of those who are resorting to personal attacks and bullying. We believe that the Great Dane community is BETTER THAN THAT.
ETHICAL DOG TRAINERS
-Will never hit, kick, scold, choke, string up or alpha roll a dog, for any reason.
-Gracefully manage a difficult or aggressive dog with muzzles, crates, desensitization, confidence-building and counter-conditioning, not abuse.
-Rely primarily on positive reinforcement (praise, treats, fun) to teach and increase correct behaviors.
-Will choose appropriate and thoughtful corrections when needed, but never as a means to teach new behaviors or to force compliance, especially with fearful, timid, confused and frustrated dogs.
-Are always transparent about their methods and do not hide behind behavior ‘woo’.
We believe that the only way for Sit Happens, LLC/Pepper Greggs in Colorado to save what’s left of her reputation is to acknowledge the problem and present a long-term plan of action for fixing it.
This is unlikely to have been an isolated event (a truth that has been confirmed by the person who filmed the video above), and speaks to bigger issues not only in this training program, but in the training industry as a whole.
Tread cautiously when choosing a dog trainer, and especially when choosing to leave your dog in the hands of a stranger. A LOT of people are completely surprised by this, and that’s so unfair to them. My heart breaks for the dog owners who have always felt that their dog was in good hands with her.
Pepper Greggs with Sit Happens has always marketed herself and her training methods as ‘spiritually informed’. She claims to be an activist and driven to resolve deep seated issues related to past experiences, abuse and trauma.
No wonder people are surprised to see this. She doesn’t present as the ‘rough’, punishment based discipline trainer that you might imagine. As a matter of fact, her entire website feels very welcoming and positive.
RED FLAGS
Since this video went viral, MANY members of the local Dane community have come out of the woodwork.
An alarming number of people are saying that something felt ‘off’, so they never returned.
Others are saying that their dog came back “afraid of the leash“, or terrible on a leash, and they regret sending their dog to her.
I believe that because of this trainers popularity, many people had been afraid to speak up.
When a trainer, breeder or otherwise is the most ‘popular’ recommendation or even a monopoly, question it.
I believe that several people felt compelled to continue recommending this trainer, even when they felt like something was off. If other people swear by it, who are they to feel or say otherwise?
It’s hard to be the voice of opposition.
Not to mention, the people that could really spread the word (including breeders and those that organize and lead the local social meetup community) truly had the wool pulled over their eyes. They had no idea and happily recommended her as an ‘expert’ to Dane owners and puppy buyers. They are all shocked, no doubt.
What an interesting and tragic social experiment. Be diligent, be aware, and recognize that word of mouth is only PART of the puzzle when it comes to making a decision about choosing a trainer.
BOARD AND TRAIN
Unfortunately, this is NOT the first time that a Great Dane has been abused in the hands of a board and train situation.
For some reason, rough handling, neglect and abuse are unacceptably common with board and train facilities. There have been many stories of Great Danes coming back terrified, underweight, flat-footed, knuckled, untrained or worse, missing or deceased following stays with dog trainers that offer this service.
Be aware. Ask about methodology, daily routine, nutrition, medical issues and what happens when the dog does something WRONG. Verify how much experience the trainer has working with dogs, and if that trainer is the one doing all of the actual training. Ask if there are live video cameras you can watch, and seek information about how they plan to train you, the owner, on how to work with your dog every day.
Remember, training is an ongoing process. It’s never one and done.
At Hello Danes, we do not recommend board and train for most situations. We believe that the most ethical, effective and appropriate training comes from YOU. The owner and handler working with the dog, one on one, developing a positive relationship and learning how to learn together.
We have no interest in bashing Pepper Greggs with Sit Happens, or in ruining her life, but we do think it’s important for dog owners to be aware of her actions here, and to be aware of the fact that this kind of thing happens more than we know.
How do you feel about this situation? Have you had a bad experience with a dog trainer, or a good one with Sit Happens in Colorado?
We will also provide information on how to choose the right e-collar for your dog and how to use it safely, humanely, and effectively.
Use our table of contents below to navigate (the headings are clickable!). This post is JAM PACKED with E-Collar information!
The Best E-Collars for Great Danes
5 Reasons to Choose E-Collar Training for your Giant Breed Dog
At Hello Danes we believe in modern, humane, positive E-Collar training. Here are 5 quick reasons to choose this for your pet!
Unlike harnesses, collars, and leashes, the E-Collar uses absolutely no physical pressure or restraint.
This can be very important when you have a large, strong dog like the Great Dane! Not only that, but a Great Dane’s neck is very sensitive. We should not be relying heavily on any tools or leash attachment points that add ongoing physical pressure to the neck, chest, face, or back.
E-Collar training is also very versatile.
You can use it for obedience training, recall, behavior modification, safety, boundaries, and more.
E-Collars are also very safe, gentle, and humane when used properly.
We are providing you with tons of training tips in this post, or visit our famous Great Dane E-Collar training guide!
Remote-collar trained dogs are a joy to take on hikes, walks, and trips to the dog park.
E-Collar training gives you the freedom to enjoy your dog without having to worry about them running off or getting into trouble.
E-Collar training is a fun, positive experience for your dog!
If you’ve found our blog post today you may be wondering if choosing a shock or E-Collar for your Great Dane is even the right choice.
Chances are, you are feeling frustrated or overwhelmed by your Great Dane and some behavioral issues, including running off, jumping the fence, barking, and eating off the counter.
Or maybe you are hoping to improve recall and give your dogoff-leash freedom.
Perhaps you heard that training tools like this (or prong collars) were abusive, aversive, punishing, and harmful to your dog. (Pro-tip, this is NOT true!)
We hear you, friend! You are in the right place. Read on for more information (or check out some of our popular links below).
Modern E-Collars (the kind we recommend below) work by emitting a low level of stimulation to the dog’s neck.
The stimulation is similar to that of a medical-grade TENS unit. It does not zap or feel sharp, but rather feels like a tickle or muscle twitch.
This sensation completely replaces the physical pressure that your dog would otherwise feel from a leash, harness, or regular dog collar.
This virtual, wireless ‘pressure’ can be used in a number of ways to communicate with your dog from a distance.
As an added bonus, it cannot cause your dog ANY physical harm or orthopedic damage from pulling into a leash, harness, or dog collar. This truly is the most gentle and effective way to train your giant breed dog.
SHOCK COLLARS are different. These antiquated training tools rely on static to sharply ‘zap’ the dog, not unlike a cattle prod, hot wire fence, or sticking your wet finger in a plug socket.
The goal of a shock collar is to punish the dog for doing something wrong.
Shock is startling and often painful. These devices are cheap and easy to find on Amazon or even the local pet store
The cheaper the shock collar, the more likely it is to be unreliable (including shocking dogs at too high of a level or otherwise malfunctioning).
We do not recommend shock collars or old-style shock collar training for any reason.
Read on to learn about the more modern, effective, humane choice: E-Collars.
Have your dog calmly ignore dogs and people walking by
Stop lunging and jumping
Keep your dog safely behind an invisible boundary
Stop fence jumping, once and for all
Put an end to nuisance barking
Stop counter surfing
Redirect your dog away from rude social interactions
Immediately recall your dog to you in an emergency
All without pain, fear or frustration.
We are here to be a resource for you when it comes to all things E-Collar, positive dog training, and more.
A well-trained Great Dane is happier, healthier and a joy to live with!
We do not recommend the purchase of any cheap shock collar for any reason. Cheap shock collars are made to punish, and E-Collars are made to communicate.
We highly recommend E-Collar Technologies Educator series collars (ET-300, ET-400 and ET-900 models).
While we do offer them in our store ($10 off with code ECOLLARMAGIC), you can also buy them directly from the manufacturer. Amazon may have knockoffs or outdated models, so buyer beware.
We love these collars because they have pioneered modern off-lead dog training, and developed a proprietary tapping sensation that doesn’t hurt, punish, scare or harm your dog.
We will be covering each model’s features and pricing below so that you can choose the best training collar for your dog.
The Mini-Educator (300), the Educator (400) and the EZ Educator (900) models all offer adjustable stimulation levels from 1-100.
Most dogs will respond enthusiastically and work at levels 10-15 or less. The majority of humans can barely feel the stimulation, if at all, until level 8 or more!
Your dog will first be taught to have a positive association with this low-level sensation.
Our Top Pick for Beginners: the Mini-Educator
The Mini-Educator is our top pick for beginners because it is the most affordable option that still offers all of the features you need to get started with E-Collar training.
The Mini-Educator has a half-mile range and if you have two dogs, you can purchase a system with two collars!
The Mini-Educator remote collar is a simple, easy-to-use, and rugged system.
The receiver and remote are impact-resistant and waterproof, and features include adjustable stimulation, vibration sensation, tone, and night light.
Our Top Pick for Long-Distance Dogs: The Educator Collar
The Educator remote collar looks almost identical to the Mini-Educator but offers a bigger range (3/4 mile) than the Mini-Educator listed above.
The receiver and remote are rugged and waterproof, and features include adjustable stimulation, vibration sensation, tone, and night light.
The Educator is also available in a one or two-dog system if you have multiple dogs!
We recommend the Educator for Great Dane owners that need more range than the Mini-Educator (ET-300) series can offer but still prefer simplicity and ergonomics.
Choose the one or two-dog system below, and get started!
We are an authorizedE-Collar Technologies dealerand chose to work with this brand, not the others because it’s the one we believe in the most!
They have the best customer service and the most reliable E-Collars we’ve worked with.
When you order from Hello Danes, you are backed by Great Dane lovers and will receive the latest model collar directly from the manufacturer.
We are here to support you with all of your Great Dane, positive training, and E-Collar questions!
E-Collar Training Information & FAQ
Imagine reliably training your Great Dane using communication that you may barely be able to feel yourself.
Contrary to popular belief, you do NOT need to shock or scare your dog into obedience.
The E-Collar is a powerful tool that when used correctly, provides much more outstanding results than traditional shock collar training! EVEN with large, in-charge, and currently out-of-control dogs.
Of course, because the E-Collar is adjustable (100 different levels!) you can find the magic place where your dog responds. Then, you can easily utilize a stronger stimulation or the more aversive vibration sensation for the times when the dog is distracted or needs immediate redirection for safety reasons.
E-Collar training begins with teaching the dog to associate the stim feeling with positive things such as treats, praise, fun and attention. Not punishment!
Proper E-Collar training relies heavily on positive reinforcement. You can teach a dog MUCH faster if you first teach and reward them for the behavior that you want, and then use the E-Collar to clarify the communication.
Unlike zap and startle shock collar training, your dog will be an active participant in training.
Can I punish my dog with an E-Collar?
There is a time and a place for using higher levels as a means to communicate “NO” to your dog.
However, when used correctly, this is a tiny piece of proper E-Collar training (if used at all).
Having a dog ‘cower and run’ when you ‘show them the remote’ is not a positive thing.
With E-Collar training, the remote is never a threat, and scaring your dog into obedience isn’t the goal.
Can I use an E-Collar on a Great Dane puppy?
We recommend starting Great Dane collar training only once your dog (or puppy) has a solid basic obedience foundation.
Your dog should know how to sit, down, come and ‘place’ (or stay) at a basic level, and they should enjoy learning with you!
Once that foundation is in place, you can start your E-Collar conditioning at any time (usually around 4-6 months of age).
Great Dane puppies are incredibly smart and loyal! By implementing modern, gentle training you’ll soon have an incredible gentle giant that can be off-leash with you, anywhere you go.
Do big dogs need more powerful collars?
This myth is brought to you by people with no credible background in canine education!
Large dogs are just as responsive and sensitive to gentle e-collar stimulation as small dogs are.
The best collars for large breed dogs and our gentle giants are also the most gentle! The modern e-collar works incredibly well without harsh corrections.
What about bark collars?
We recommend the use of the Sport Dog bark collar ONLY after you have addressed all of the root reasons behind barking: boredom, anxiety, frustration, aggression, and habit. You can read our Great Dane barking article HERE.
By choosing a different brand for bark corrections, your dog will have a different association with the collar. When your dog barks, the SportDog bark collar will issue a correction. Never use cheap bark collars as they can make dogs suspicious, cautious and nervous.
How to Teach Recall with an E-Collar
First, the dog is conditioned to view the stim sensation, at a low level, as a positive thing. Stim = treats and praise, YAY! If you do this correctly, the dog will feel the stim and get really excited about it.
Second, the dog is taught, using positive reinforcement what the word ‘COME’ means. Starting at a short distance with no distractions, the dog quickly learns without error or correction that COME = good things such as praise, games, and treats.
Third, the dog learns that STIM + COME together = come back, starting at a short distance. Because both STIM and COME = good things, the dog responds.
With just a few short weeks of practice, you can then utilize stim and positive reinforcement to your advantage at increasing distances and around more distractions such as people, dogs, cars and children.
As the dog returns, you can use the dial to gradually reduce the stim sensation, similar to a game of hot and cold…only in this case, ‘cold’ is the goal! .
The dog quickly learns that staying close and coming back = being able to turn the stim sensation both down and eventually off, which is VERY rewarding to the dog.
Remember, with E-Collar training your dog is an ACTIVE participant in the training, and that’s why it works!
Here are some common myths about E-Collar training.
E-Collar training is NOT cruel. The E-Collar is a tool, and like any tool, it can be used correctly or incorrectly.
The goal of E-Collar training is to establish clear communication with your dog in order to have a better relationship and give your dog MORE freedom!
Read on for more common misconceptions about our favorite dog training tool!
Myth: E-Collars just shock the crap out of dogs
Many people believe that the only reason a dog is responsive to their training collar is that you are ‘shocking the crap out of them’ until they come back.
This couldn’t be farther from the truth.
When your cell phone rings, you answer it. It doesn’t hurt you, scare you, punish you, or make you aggressive but it is mildly annoying.
The gentle sensation from the dog collar works the same way. It doesn’t hurt your dog, and just like your cell phone, your dog knows how to turn it off!
All they have to do is come running towards you.
Myth: Your dog is only trained because you forced them
Some people promote the misguided idea that an electric training collar only works because the dog is being punished and forced.
Remember, the stimulation simply replaces pressure from a harness, prong collar, flat collar, or any other type of dog collar.
If we’re going to talk about force, let’s talk about that. Physical restraint is a form of force that is completely removed when you choose off-leash training.
Your dog will be free to move naturally without restrictions, and all they have to do is be responsive to boundaries that you communicate to them using a gentle tactile sensation.
A Great Dane wearing an e-collar is a large dog that is being kept safe, without frustration, pain, or punishment.
As a matter of fact, I’m writing this as we speak with my completely off-leash, intact male Great Dane sitting by my side.
We are on my front porch, in an unfenced yard, with dogs and people walking by. He is calm, happy, and loving life!
Myth: A long leash is more humane
Because people incorrectly believe that all training collars are being used to punish and harm dogs, they will also promote the idea that a long leash is a humane alternative.
While a long leash is necessary during training, it should not be considered the more ‘humane’ choice.
Long leashes can be exceptionally dangerous! If your dog is at the end of a 20-foot lead, you have very little control.
A dog can become tangled or wrapped up by a leash, and excessive force and pressure may be placed on the neck, chest, and shoulders as a result.
Additionally, it is unsafe for dogs to greet each other while on a leash.
Zooming, making circles, running with abandon, zipping through the ocean waves, swimming, climbing up onto or under things, and having a healthy play session with another dog are activities that are unsafe while on any kind of leash (including a long line).
Ditching the leash and using a modern E-Collar instead is the most humane, safe, and effective choice! It is unfair to keep dogs on a leash for their entire life when there is a modern, fantastic alternative!
Myth: Your dog will become aggressive if you use a training collar!
This misguided belief is based on incorrect use. Aggression, frustration, fear, and anxiety can be caused by all forms of training, including positive reinforcement and force-free training!
As a matter of fact, some of the most reactive and frustrated dogs we know were trained using ‘force-free’ methods. It is unfair to place blanket blame on this tool.
If you are turning the stimulation up to aversive levels and intentionally doing so to hurt, scare and punish your dog on a regular basis, without conditioning them to the collar first, then yes.
You can cause aggression.
But used correctly? Nope.
Chances are, you’ll find that your dog is actually calmer, happier, and LESS reactive. Being off-leash is so much more enriching and freeing to dogs than spending life isolated from experiences or trapped by physical restraint devices.
Great Dane TrainingTips & Tricks
Never leave your great dane in their e-collar unattended
Rotate the collar often, and make sure that you have chosen the correct fit for your dog’s neck size. The collar should fit snug and not rub.
Consider investing in contact points made of different metals if your dog has sensitive skin
Use lots of positive reinforcement, and build a solid foundation before getting started!
Visit our E-Collar shop, and feel free to reach out and ask questions!
We ONLY recommend and sell what we use on our own beloved dogs.
All of the products in our shop have been personally tested by us, and we are happy to answer any questions that you may have! We ship dog training collars directly from the manufacturer’s warehouse, so you are sure to get the latest model.
There is a massive difference between an E-Collar and shock collar. It’s frustrating that so many trainers and dog owners misunderstand E-Collars, because they are something that, as primarily positive trainers, we stand behind.
In other words, we don’t believe that they should have the same negative reputation as a tool of force and corrections that shock collars do.
Today, I wanted to address this and clear the air! If you’ve been around our blog a bit, you know that we support responsible E-Collar use, but NOT shock collars.
Interested in learning more about why? Read on…
SHOCK COLLAR:
+ Sharp static shock, similar to a hot electric fence or sticking your finger into an outlet
+ Designed to scare a dog away from a behavior
+ Often painful and always startling
+ Typically offers a warning beep and/or vibrate function, which can mislead dog owners into feeling they are using the tool humanely
+Relies on ‘easy button’ method training, where the dog is the subject of the training, not a participant in it
+Can cause frustration and confusion, especially with poor shock timing
+Scientifically proven to increase fearful and distressed body language, including lip licking, pinning ears, cowering and yelping
+Scientifically proven to increase reactivity and aggression
+Often sold inexpensively online and in pet stores
+Often, though not always also used for invisible fences. Barrier frustration is common.
E-COLLAR:
+ Blunt muscle stimulation, exactly like a TENS unit from a doctor or therapist
+ Designed to be a communication tool, not a correction tool
+ Not painful. Feels like a tickle or tiny ants
+ May offer a warning beep or blunt vibration, which many E-Collar trainers find they never use. Vibration is much more aversive than blunt stim to many dogs
+Relies on the dog having a positive association with the sensation, and being an active participant in training
+Enhances communication and reduces frustration. Allows for more freedom.
+When used correctly, is proven to be a humane and effective training method with no added fear or stress.
+Can increase confidence and freedom and reduce reactivity and aggression
+Only a few companies make E-Collars, they are more expensive and high quality
+Are becoming more common with electric fences, and can be used to teach boundaries.
SHOCK COLLARS & E-COLLARS ARE VERY DIFFERENT TOOLS
Many people resort to a shock collar when they’ve reached their limit with a dog that is exhibiting frustrating and dangerous behaviors such as jumping and running away.
The typical approach to shock collar training includes being ready to hit the ‘easy button’ and startle the dog using beep, vibrate or shock away from an inappropriate behavior.
This action is very rewarding to the person holding the remote, but often frustrating and confusing to the dog.
THE PROBLEM WITH SHOCK COLLARS
When a dog is unsure about the corrections or how to respond to them, they become confused. Many begin to show escalating signs of frustration and fear.
They may yelp, cower, tuck and run or even redirect their anxiety into reactivity. Many continue to ‘act out’ or are labeled as ‘stubborn’ when they continue to repeat incorrect behaviors.
A lot of dog owners will ‘show the dog the remote’ as a threat to push them into compliance. The dog sees it and runs away, often cowering and showing subtle signs of stress. In this common scenario, the threat has become the tool, and that threat is heavily relied upon.
This practice creates a training environment where the dog is under control only because of fear and restrictions, not because they’ve actually been taught right from wrong and given freedom and autonomy.
Shock and startle easy-button training is what gives electronic dog collars a bad name, and it’s a misconception we are out to fix.
Have you made this mistake in training your dog? Don’t stress and simply read on!
E-COLLAR TRAINING
The first step in E-Collar training is to establish the dogs ‘working level’. E-Collars are adjustable. The working level is the point where the dog feels the stimulation.
For many dogs, their ‘working level’ is almost imperceptible to humans. Imagine training your dog with something so gentle! It feels like a small tingle or ants crawling on the skin.
The next step is to pair the stimulation with positive things. Stim, treat. Stim, treat.
The dog quickly becomes EXCITED about the stim!
Proper E-Collar training does NOT rely on force, fear or harsh shock corrections.
Now, you may be asking how a large, in-charge dog could possibly be responsive to this, and that is where the magic of E-Collar training comes into play.
With E-Collars, the dog is an ACTIVE participant in the training. They learn exactly what the stimulation (communication) means and understand how to turn the stimulation down or off by making choices.
Turning the stimulation down and off is very rewarding to them, and many dogs enjoy the mental enrichment aspect. It builds their confidence, especially as the training allows them more freedom.
The stimulation is simply an annoyance; it’s not painful and it doesn’t have to scare them.
They also understand that the stimulation means ‘turn around’ and come back, because doing so always results in good things (especially at first).
When you do have to use a more intense stim to redirect your dog or get his/her attention in a dangerous or inappropriate situation, the dog knows exactly what to do and doesn’t associate the sensation with the environment.
Remember, E-Collar training is a lifestyle. Shock collar training is a bandaid.
Even large and ‘in-charge’ type dogs can make a complete 180 with proper training using positive reinforcement and the E-Collar as a communications tool.
THE BEST E-COLLARS FOR GREAT DANES
We stand by E-Collar Technologies training systems, which offer adjustable blunt stim and multi-dog models.
Shop E-Collars for your Great Dane here! We are an authorized distributor of E-Collar Technologies models and would love to help you give your dog off-leash freedom!
If you’ve previously used a shock collar, that’s ok! Start over again with the E-Collar. It’s a completely different tool and used a completely different way. We are here for you if you have questions!
A properly used E-Collar is MORE humane, MORE effective and LESS aversive than:
vibration mode
a leash
a no-pull harness
a head harness
a prong or choke collar
leash pressure
a collar grab
a harsh verbal correction
a leash pop
a spray bottle
a can of pennies
endless restrictions to freedom and autonomy because of dangerous behaviors such as fence jumping, excessive pulling and running away.
Why do we stand behind E-Collars? Because happy, confident, well-trained dogs that have autonomy and freedom make excellent family pets and good canine citizens.
Natalie and I were having a LONG discussion the other day about dog training (we both LOVE to train our Danes!) and realized that some of the nerdy and more technical aspects of dog training can be really complicated and overwhelming.
People think of training as teaching a puppy to sit, lay down and not pee in the house.
Those are basics. Easy to teach, but in the grand scheme of creating well-behaved, happy and polite family dogs those skills are just the tip of the iceberg.
If you are struggling to move past the cute puppy basics, this post is for you!
FIRST, UNDERSTAND THIS
Operant Conditioning is a big fancy word for ‘how dogs (and people) learn’.
Operant conditioning involves punishment and reward. This is where the magic of dog training comes to play.
Understanding this concept is to put magic in your hands!
We encourage you to let go of the idea that all bad behavior is the result of ‘stubbornness’ or ‘dominance’, or that all punishment means hurting or abusing a dog.
Positive does not necessarily mean ‘YAY’, and negative doesn’t necessarily mean ‘OUCH’ or bad, either!
Positive means to add something. Negative means to take it away.
POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT: This one is easy. You can teach a dog to do nearly anything from recall (COME) and stay to silly tricks by using this quadrant!
Examples:
A treat for sitting
Praise for going potty outside
An ear scratch for sitting calmly while another dog walks by
A frozen stuffed Kong for completing a short stay (and then encouraging the stay to continue) on a mat
A treat, praise, or play session for taking 10 steps in a row by your side (heel position)
You can even use the environment as a reward! For example, if your dog sits politely by the door and waits until you say ‘FREE’ before they run out, their access to the yard is the reward.
Positive reinforcement is NOT all about treats. It’s about adding something the dog likes to encourage the dog to increase a behavior that you want. Use that information to your advantage and think about ways to apply positive reinforcement to your routine outside of ‘sit-treat’.
With all positive reinforcement, once the behavior is ‘installed’ and starts to become reliable, you can reduce the rewards and even eliminate them.
NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT: This quadrant is one of the most difficult to apply correctly. It involves the removal of something the dog doesn’t want or like, in exchange for them doing the behavior you want. The removal of the negative thing is the reward (reinforcement).
Examples:
Applying pressure to the dog to sit and releasing it when they sit
Using leash pressure to teach the dog to come back or walk nicely on a leash (pressure = turn towards you, pressure relieved is the reward for that behavior)
Asking for a recall by using the stim on an e-collar on continuous, then turning the stim off when the dog returns (or turning it down gradually as they return, like a game of hot-cold)
Asking a dog that is afraid of something to sit or look, then moving them away from the scary thing as a reward for doing that behavior
Pinching a dogs ear until they take a toy into their mouth (also known as a forced retrieve), then letting go of the pinch as soon as they do (relief from the pinch is the reward for doing the behavior)
Opening a door (barrier/restriction) in exchange for polite wait/sit behavior.
Negative reinforcement should always be paired with positive reinforcement.
POSITIVE PUNISHMENT: You use this one every single time you say the word NO to your dog! Positive punishment does not mean ‘sunshine and rainbows’. It means adding (positive, +) something the dog doesn’t like to decrease a behavior.
Examples:
Whacking a dog in the side with a rolled up towel
Throwing a bag of chains on the floor to startle the dog
Spraying a dog in the face with a water bottle
Rolling a dog on its back (alpha roll) / pinning
Deliberately using the vibrate or stim on an e-collar as a correction
Using beep, vibrate or shock on a cheap shock collar as a correction
The collar on an electric fence issuing a shock when a dog crosses the boundary
Jabbing the dog in the neck with two fingers
Popping a prong collar with a leash
Positive punishment can mean anything from a mild correction (‘NO!’) to flat out abuse (kicking a dog or choking it). Tread cautiously with positive punishment! There is never a need to alpha roll/pin or hurt a dog. Punitive positive punishment is what gives many dog trainers a bad name.
Is your trainer relying heavily on positive punishment and calling it ‘discipline’ or ‘dominance’? We encourage you to find a new, more modern trainer!
When using an e-collar, do NOT think of it as an ‘easy’ button. It’s not. You still need to condition your dog (using positive reinforcement) to understand what the stim means and teach the behavior you want.
Only then is it appropriate to use the stim as a corrections tool, and if done correctly you’ll rarely use it that way AT ALL.
NOTE: We DO NOT condone the practice of purchasing and using cheap low quality shock collars, especially to ‘correct’ things such as puppy biting, aggression, resource guarding, crate barking or lunging. Many dogs have been ruined and become aloof, fearful and confused by this practice…plus, without guidance you lose a VALUABLE opportunity to appropriately apply stim as a positive means to communicate and strengthen behaviors. No ethical dog trainer will recommend that you use a cheap shock collar and ‘easy-button’ shock/vibrate/beep training.
Quality e-collars that use a blunt stim (similar to a tens machine and feels more like a muscle stimulation than a shock) are the only electric collars that we recommend. Dogtra, E-Collar Technologies and Garmin are brands to consider, and we recommend using them with guidance and/or diligent research.
NEGATIVE PUNISHMENT: This quadrant is when you remove something the dog finds rewarding in order to decrease a behavior.
Examples:
Locking the trash can so the dog cannot dig through it (removal of the joy of eating trash)
Putting a dog that jumps the fence on a leash in the yard (removal of the reward of jumping the fence)
Turning your back on a puppy that is playing too rough with you/puppy biting or demand barking at you (removal of your attention)
Standing with feet planted on a walk if your dog pulls (removal of the reward involved with moving forward). This one, in a way goes with Negative Reinforcement example above, that leash pressure is relieved when the dog chooses to stop pulling and turn back towards you!
Putting the dog behind a baby gate (removal of access to guests she wants to jump all over)
Negative punishment is a very common, easy way to manage the environment and works best when you are very consistent. While the crate should NEVER be seen as punishment, it is a great tool for management and time outs!
Negative punishment, boundaries, and NOT practicing incorrect behavior go hand in hand! If you are struggling with a dog that jumps, steals, begs or destroys things negative punishment is 100% your friend.
However, negative punishment should not be used in excess; relying on restrictions to freedom, movement and choice is not always the most humane choice. ‘Errorless learning’ and strict behavior management to avoid corrections can be very frustrating, unfair and confusing to dogs so tread cautiously and always look for ways to communicate, guide, teach and train.
POSITIVE VS. BALANCED DOG TRAINING
If we really were to boil this down, there are only a few differences between a ‘positive’ trainer and a ‘balanced’ trainer.
Positive trainers try to not use positive punishment or negative reinforcement. Basically put, they will opt for behavioral management and negative punishment before using anything that may be considered a ‘correction’.
Balanced trainers will use all four quadrants, and that includes the use of e-collars, prongs and other corrections to apply positive reinforcement, positive punishment, negative punishment and negative reinforcement.
GOOD balanced trainers rely heavily on positive reinforcement, and GOOD positive trainers recognize that putting a leash on a dog or withholding a treat until the dog sits is aversive (punishing and yes, ‘balanced’) in some way.
GOOD balanced trainers use the E-Collar as a communications tool, not a corrections one. GOOD positive trainers are realistic about how no-pull and front-clip harnesses work (they are not a positive tool).
The ultimate goal of either trainer should not be to ‘beat dogs into submission’, spoil them, scare them, make them obese with treats or frustrate them…but to teach and guide dogs and owners into a harmonious and healthy relationship.
How can you apply the four quadrants of operant conditioning to strengthen your ability to communicate with your Great Dane?
Great Danes come in a range of beautiful colors. Brindle, merle, black, mantle, fawn, blue, and harlequin are the 7 colors typically accepted in the written breed standards. Deviations from the breed standard can result in a range of coat colors not traditionally associated with Great Danes. There exists a prevailing concern among breed enthusiasts and experts regarding the intentional breeding of off-standard and designer color Great Danes.
Merlequin, Brindlequin, Fawnequin, Lilac Merle, Tan Point, and chocolate are popular ‘off-standard’ colors, to give you some examples.
Many Great Dane owners are drawn to breeders who focus on creating eye-catching coat patterns in their puppies. Read on to learn more about this controversial practice!
What is an Off-Standard Color Great Dane?
This is a big one folks, buckle up!
What is an off-standard color Great Dane, or “designer color’ Great Dane?
Mis-marked versions of the accepted colors (for example, a Fawn with no black mask or a Brindle with a white chest are always a penalty in the show ring, and any color that isn’t one of those seven is automatically disqualified from the show altogether. Most can be registered, however!
Color Purists vs. Color Enthusiasts
There are two major schools of thought on this one.
Color Purists & Breed Preservationists
This group believes that purposefully breeding Danes in off-standard colors is bad and that new colors should only be added to the accepted color code following diligent research into the color and its benefit to the preservation and health of the breed.
They believe that breed color families should rarely be mixed.
Color Enthusiasts
Believe that if a color is naturally occurring in the breed, it should be allowed to be bred and allowed in the show ring and that it’s in some ways discriminatory to exclude quality Danes that come in colors outside of the 7 outlined in the written standard.
They believe there is no problem with mixing color families.
How do Great Dane Color Families Work?
Without getting into the nitty gritty of genetics, it’s important to understand that as a general rule there are only a few ‘color’ families:
The color purist breeders will mix and match within those families. They may pair a fawn and a brindle together or a harlequin with a mantle, for example. Their goal is to create colors that meet the breed standard.
The color enthusiast breeders will mix them up, choosing to pair a harlequin and a brindle or a blue and a merle, for example.
If you are a geek about this stuff, we encourage you to visit the fun coat colors group on Facebook!
An all-white double-merle Great Dane
Is Breeding Off-Standard Colors Ethical?
Now of course, we can look at this and think ‘well, what’s wrong anyways with pairing a harlequin and a brindle together? Brindlequin dogs are so neat looking!’
The issue is actually more complicated than many think.
Many color enthusiast breeders will intentionally pair already off-color-standard dogs with other off-color-standard dogs.
For example, fawnequin + lilac merle or chocolate + mantle-marked brindle to see what neat colors come from the pairings.
The result? Tons and tons of ‘new’ and interesting markings on litters of Dane puppies. Great Danes are very special this way.
In many cases, the off-standard litters being born are a FUN surprise for the breeder and those interested in the puppies! It’s incredible for social media AND for sales. That right there is a major red flag.
This practice of creating off-standard colors is naturally rewarding because of this. The problem? These breeders are being rewarded for focusing on color first, not temperament, structure, and health.
A sickly merlequin Great Dane puppy
Off-Standard Colors are Fun
Here is the problem, though.
Off-standard colors are excluded from being shown.
Say what you want about show dogs, but dog shows are one of the only ways a breeder can verify that the dogs they are breeding are structurally sound.
What we are seeing as a result?
100’s of Great Dane breeders so focused on creating fun designer colors that they cannot see the forest for the trees.
Great Dane health & structure are suffering.
Yeah, we’re going to go there.
When a breeder is choosing dogs to breed, they should be first focused on structure and health.
Ethically, they must choose full health testing of both parents (hips, heart, eyes AND thyroid) and seek feedback from peers (in dog shows and otherwise) to make sure that they are breeding dogs that have excellent genetics.
Unfortunately, many (of course, there are exceptions) ‘color breeders’ are so focused on color that they disregard the original form, shape and function of the Great Dane….often to the detriment of their health.
What ends up happening is the creation of 1000’s of Great Danes in ‘unique’ colors, made to sell easily to unsuspecting buyers, that come from breeders who don’t have the best interest of the puppies in mind.
Basically put, that’s a lot of Great Danes that are contributing to an increasingly alarming problem of poor overall health, temperaments and structure.
Extremely droopy eyes, flat feet, roached backs, bloat, wobblers, cancer, cardiac problems, cataracts, entropion, seizures and thyroid problems plague Great Danes. While one individual puppy may be ok, over time these incremental changes are problematic.
Because off-standard colors cannot be shown, there are no checks and balances for breeders that focus their breeding program on color.
Basically put? It’s a free-for-all.
Some breeds have addressed a similar problem by creating a scoring sheet that can be used to evaluate if a single dog is breeding quality, without the breeder needing to get into the show circuit.
That’s not happening in Danes that I am aware.
Some Off-Standard Dane Colors are Especially Bad
All or mostly white Great Danes and Merlequin Great Danes (looks like harlequin but with merle patches, no black ones) are most often the result of unethical spot-spot pairings.
Also known as Double Merle Great Danes, white Danes may be deaf or blind and many have internal health problems (autoimmune disorders, seizures, allergies, etc.) and poor temperaments.
These dogs are 100% preventable through thoughtful breeding practices & genetic color testing.
Double Merle Breeding in Great Danes
What’s so interesting about double merle Great Dane dogs is that it’s a problem for both color pure and color enthusiast breeders!
Color Purist breeders
These breeders may pair Harlequin + Harlequin to create ‘show marked’ Harlequin dogs.
They often cite that there aren’t enough quality black or mantle studs to use, so this is the only way. They know that double-merle puppies are a consequence of that, and some will even euthanize those puppies before 5 weeks of age. The GDCA condones this practice.
At least these puppies DO tend more often to come from well-structured, well-tempered proven dogs, and some breeders who do this see to it that the DM dogs from these litters live long, healthy lives in carefully selected homes.
Advances in genetic screening and our understanding of the Merle gene have made this practice safer, too.
Color Enthusiast breeders
These breeders often end up with double-merle puppies because they weren’t aware it could happen (for example, if they pair a fawnequin with a lilac merle, which sounds cool but is a really, really bad idea), or because they didn’t color test and know that a solid-color dog in their program was a cryptic merle (a black Dane, for example, that recessively carries the merle gene), or they did it intentionally because they know they could get the super popular color puppies (which may also be deaf or blind).
Great Dane Coat Color and Health
Double Merle puppies will nearly always have some kind of health issue, mild to extremely serious.
There is some information bouncing around that modifying the black spots to fawn on a Great Dane (Fawnequin) for example may impact internal health, though we’d like to find more information on this.
If that is truly the case, there are many off-standard colors that would be extremely unethical to pursue off-standard colors for this reason alone. More research is needed.
Off-Standard Colors in Well-Bred Litters
Ethical breeders who work within the outlined standard color families can and do occasionally get a surprise off-standard color puppy.
Some are mis-marked, heavily marked, or the result of recessive genes.
Unlike dogs from color-focused backyard breeders, however, the random off-standard pup in a litter will never be sold for breeding, will have come from well-structured dogs, will not be sold at a higher price as ‘rare’, and will be supported for life.
We will continue to repeat this:
Ethical breeders focus first on structure, genetic health and temperament. If the focus is first on creating unique colors, there is a problem.
Off-Standard Colors and ‘Racism’
Some backyard breeders, when faced with those that don’t support intentional off-color breeding, will say that those people are being ‘racist’.
We cannot think of a more tone-deaf statement, to be honest. Comparing human skin and human experiences involving racism and discrimination to dogs’ coat colors is extremely misguided and ignorant.
The Honest Truth About Intentional Designer Color Breeding
Take a look at this sickly designer color puppy above while you hear us out.
There are two kinds of Great Dane breeders.
BREEDER #1
Cares very much about the puppies they produce. Profit is not the goal, health is.
Temperament, longevity, and structure matter to the point where they are willing to NOT breed a dog that doesn’t meet their standards.
They support buyers for life.
They spend a lot of money on health testing, genetic screening, training and socialization.
They invest hours of blood sweat and tears into their dogs and care very much about every puppy they produce.
Breeder #1 is breeding dogs to better the breed and to ensure that those who share their lives with that puppy are presented with an animal that has every opportunity to be a happy, healthy, friendly and robust family pet, in ANY color.
BREEDER #2
Cares mostly about profits and fun.
They may be friendly and even caring towards owners and the puppies they produce, but they are willing to cut corners.
They may only partially health test the parents (choosing to do only hip scans, for example, so they can tell you that they are ‘reputable and health test’)
They are often blind to the structural problems they are passing on.
Droopy eyes, roached backs and a mild problem with aggression towards dogs or people may be common.
They don’t always support buyers for life
Breeder # 2 has learned that there is no reason to fully health test the parents or ask for honest feedback on their structural health when they can paint the puppies ‘Lilac Merle Euro‘ and sell them at a premium, basically.
Now be honest…knowing that this is how it often works for ALL Great Dane breeders (standard colors or not), which breeder would you rather support?
Off-Standard Colors can Muck Things Up
We are already having a huge and growing problem in Great Danes when it comes to longevity, health and temperament.
So when breeders intentionally pump dogs into the system that don’t meet the breed standard for structure and come in a range of neat colors, things get messy.
This is especially true if breeders are selling off-standard color dogs to other breeders.
This practice is introducing a massive range of new color genetics (dominant and recessive) as well as perpetuating common structural & health problems.
Over time, this could mean that it becomes more and more difficult for breeders to find and use quality dogs for breeding.
Many say that additional colors are necessary to diversify the gene pool, and we don’t necessarily disagree. It honestly seems pretty silly to exclude a healthy, well built dog from a breeding program or dog show just because it’s not a ‘standard’ color!
However, those additional colors need to be ethically produced. As it stands right now? Most really aren’t.
Dare we say this?
Off-standard color breeding is largely a practice of backyard breeders. This is a sad and unfortunate truth that needs to be addressed if more off-standard colors are to become a reality in the Great Dane color code.
Adding New Colors to the Great Dane Breed Standard
Merle was added to the GDCA color code in 2019 when it was recognized that this color was a common and natural by-product of ethical pairings, served to help diversify the gene pool, was being bred with outstanding health and structure and wasn’t resulting in notable health problems.
Mantle was added in 1999, for the same reasons.
Chances are, additional colors can be added to the color code and eventually shown as well, especially if those colors are a natural byproduct of thoughtful dam/sire pairings.
Unfortunately, backyard breeders are not going to be able to make that happen. As long as their focus is on color and not health, the breed club has no legitimate interest in listening.
The currently accepted colors are there for a reason, while the off-standard colors are not…for a reason. Those reasons need to be addressed.
How Do We Fix This?
How do we encourage ALL color-focused breeders to choose ethics, and to focus on the breed as a whole before focusing on color-driven profits? Here is what we would love to see:
No more cutting corners. FULL health testing of both Dam & Sire, no matter what. Heart, Hips, Eyes & Thyroid, no excuses.
Genetic screening and pedigree study for color genes and common genetic issues (bloat, Von Willebrand’s and IMGD, for example).
Submit dogs for structural evaluation. While off-standard pups cannot be shown, there is no reason to hide them from the world. The Great Dane Conformation Clinic on Facebook is a great resource.
Be willing to wash dogs from the breeding program that don’t pass health testing or meet basic standards. There is no excuse in the world for breeding a dog that has flat feet, a roached back, narrow hips and a genetic history of aggression, bloat or wobblers!
Stop selling ‘designer’ color puppies to other backyard breeders. Be choosy!
Stop marketing off-standard color puppies as ‘unique’, ‘designer’ or ‘rare’. It’s misleading to buyers who want a healthy, robust family pet and believe they are receiving a ‘premium’ dog.
Only breed parents that have excellent temperaments.
Title the dogs! Train them and get CGC or trick or dock diving titles. Prove them in some way. Stop hiding them from the world. A lilac merle or brindlequin Dane with exemplary structure and temperament kicking butt in obedience and sports would go a LONG way towards encouraging positivity towards off-standard color breeding!
Stop hoarding dogs; if there are too many for each to have a rich family life, enrichment and loving retirement, it’s not ethical.
Support puppies and buyers for life. Keep those babies out of uneducated or abusive homes and out of rescue, please.
Don’t breed spot-to-spot, especially if the result is that the sick pups will be euthanized or dumped into rescue or into abusive and dog hoarding situations.
We’d like to think that none of this is all that difficult, but we understand that for many profits and fun will always trump ethics.
Our hope is that buyers see this, know the difference and choose which breeders to support accordingly.
See it yet?
It’s not the color of the puppy itself that’s the problem.
It’s the unethical corner-cutting profit-driven breeding practices that led to it.
We understand that off-standard color puppies are fun and unique.
It’s so simple. Meet the basic standards of ethics. Prove us wrong! Show us that breeding for off-standard colors can be done right ethically
Want a Great Dane in a Designer Color?
Don’t feel guilty about that. Danes come in some really unique colors!
This fawnequin (from a breeder on our ‘bad breeders list’) is a classic example of backyard breeding, and exactly what you want to avoid, however. The pursuit of this color meant that aspects of health and structure were grossly disregarded.
Look for and verify that the breeder you are interested in is FULLY health testing both parents (hips, heart, eyes, thyroid), is supporting buyers for LIFE no matter what, is fully socializing the puppies and keeping them until at least 8 weeks of age, and that the pedigree is free of heart problems, wobblers, bloat, dysplasia and aggression.
If they cannot answer those questions or share that information, look elsewhere. We can paint puppies any color we want to, but it the color won’t matter if they are sick.
If you have an off-standard pup, get out there and love the CRUD out of it! All Great Danes deserve the best home ever. We love all Great Danes, no matter what color they come in!
We will never fault a Dane owner for the dog they have and love; after all, these beautiful creatures become loved family members no matter what they look like!
Our hard stop is on the bad breeding practices though. That needs to be brought to light…so where we are. Please share this post. Dig deep! Re-evaluate what you think you know about off-standard colors and hold breeders to a higher standard!
It is time to BUST some myths about bloat and Great Danes!
This post is going to shake up EVERYTHING you think you know about bloat, GDV, torsion, and gastropexy, and we cannot wait to share it with you.
How do you prevent bloat? Are some dogs at higher risk of bloat than others? Does Gastropexy prevent bloat? Do I need to rest my Great Dane before and after meals?
Let’s get started!
Myth #1 – Raised Feeders Prevent Bloat
Many people rely on raised or elevated bowls with the belief that it will help prevent bloat. The theory is that the dog will swallow less air and will be more comfortable eating.
HOLES IN THIS MYTH: In 1994 a study was done of over 1900 dogs with no prior history of bloat. They were surprised to learn that the dogs with raised bowls were 110% more likely to experience bloat than other dogs in the study that had bowls on the floor. Ruh-Roh.
Want to see more information on this study? Read it HERE.
Sure, Hello Danes. Whatever. Correlation does NOT mean causation, right?
We agree, which is why we believe more studies are needed here, but also that this information may be alarming AND valuable regardless!
When we look at dogs eating from raised bowls, we see dogs having to hold their neck straight outward and then bend their head at the jaw to eat.
This makes us question if it’s really ‘more comfortable’ than a dog that drops their head to the ground (and thus has a straight line from the teeth up into the esophagus). Dogs put their noses to the ground all of the time to graze, sniff and explore. It may look uncomfortable to us humans, but it’s not an unnatural position for a dog of any size to be in.
It’s important to keep in mind that there are MANY other risk factors associated with bloat, and this specific correlation requires more study to be truly conclusive.
It is fascinating, however, that this advice continues to hang on despite information that raised bowls may increase risk and that as of yet, it’s never been proven (only theorized) that raised feeders do anything to reduce risk or prevent bloat at all.
Our advice? Do what works for your family, but especially if your Dane has other major bloat risk factors (genetics, anxiety or aggression, poor gut health and IBS), you might consider putting those bowls on the floor.
This is probably the most common bloat prevention recommendation for Great Danes. This advice is so common that it’s to the point where many Dane owners experience significant anxiety if their dog eats anything and then jumps off the bed or goes for a walk, run or zoomies in the yard.
MYTH BUSTING: As of this writing (May, 2021) studies indicate that there is actually very little, if any correlation between exercise and bloat!
Dogs can and do bloat at ANY time, and rest or exercise may have very little to do with it.
As a matter of fact, a majority of dogs that experience bloat do so while resting or in the middle of the night on an empty stomach.
There is actually no conclusive scientific evidence that resting before or after meals can prevent bloat; and when we did the research for this article we observed something really interesting. Nearly every source we found (that supported rest before/after meals as a ‘preventative’) was a blogger, and none had a study to cite supporting this claim.
Let me repeat that. As of this writing, we cannot find a SINGLE scientific source that shows resting before/after meals can actually prevent bloat, or that exercise CAUSES bloat. Only opinions that have been passed along.
Test this theory! Ask dog owners that have experienced bloat what was happening when their dog bloated. Many times it was late at night, and quite often 2-3 hours AFTER a large meal.
The heartbreaking part of this is that bloat is happening to dogs whose owners have lovingly and diligently rested them before and after meals for YEARS, leaving the owners heartbroken and frustrated. Because this advice has become so common, many Dane owners are stressed if their dog eats and then moves around, and that’s not fair.
This is a big yikes in the Dane community, in my opinion.
Here we go with the whole correlation/causation thing again, too: for those did bloat while exercising, it may have just been a matter of chance and timing…or the dog was actually experiencing anxiety, stress, or other medical problems (example, a trip to the dog park or a long walk in the heat) and/or had significant other contributing factors.
As above, there are MANY, many other risk factors for bloat. Rest your dog if you feel it makes a difference, but don’t give yourself anxiety over your dog walking around the yard with a few treats on board.
Dogs that spend too much time in a crate can become bored, weak and overweight, which isn’t good either. So find a healthy balance between eating, rest and living life.
Stomach tacking/Gastropexy is considered a ‘prophylactic’ procedure, in other words, a preventative. It involves suturing the stomach to the abdominal wall, and is usually done during spay/neuter surgery. Read our blog on the gastropexy HERE).
MYTH BUSTING – Gastropexy does NOT prevent bloat. We cannot say this loud enough.
If you have chosen Gastropexy for your dog, your dog is STILL susceptible to risk factors and may still bloat, however, bloat will be less likely to kill them.
Gastropexy helps prevent torsion, the dangerous part of a bloat event.
Torsion is what happens, during bloat, when the bloated stomach turns over on itself. Torsion is extremely serious, painful and deadly.
So really, this myth is a matter of semantics. Language. Gastropexy doesn’t really prevent bloat, but it can help prevent torsion…and that has merit.
Preventing torsion could mean that you have more time to get to the veterinarian before the bloat becomes more deadly than it already is. It is believed (though not formally studied, that we’ve seen) that Gastropexied dogs have better overall outcomes when bloat does happen.
We highly recommend this procedure, but only if you are working with a well-researched veterinarian that has a lot of experience doing it. Full pre-op screenings are a must.
For dogs that do bloat and successfully receive medical attention, gastropexy is highly recommended moving forward.
At Hello Danes, we believe in Gastropexy and consider it a safe, minimally invasive, and extremely beneficial option for all Great Danes when done by an experienced veterinarian.
Myth #4 – Only Large or Overweight Dogs Bloat
Many people with lean, fit, healthy dogs believe that their Great Dane is much less likely to suffer from bloat, heart conditions or otherwise.
While we 100% believe in keeping Danes lean, fit and active, read on:
MYTHBUSTING: All dogs are susceptible to bloat. As a matter of fact, some studies indicate that lean dogs have a slightly higher risk!
It is believed that unlike lean and fit dogs, overweight dogs have fat in the abdomen that protects and cushions the stomach.
Basically put, don’t believe for a moment that your dog is safe from bloat just because your dog is fit, active and lean. One of the most famous dock-diving Great Danes succumbed to bloat recently, which goes to show that any dog is at risk.
The benefits of keeping Great Danes lean and fit FAR outweigh anything else.
Overweight dogs have shorter lifespans, are less likely to be able to handle anesthesia (a key aspect of treating bloat, cancer and otherwise), are more likely to suffer from arthritis, diabetes and thyroid disease, and have more problems with their heart. No thanks!
Myth #5 – Food Causes Bloat & Large Scheduled Meals Prevent It
Many Dane owners maintain a rigid feeding schedule so that they can also make sure to rest their Dane before and after the meal. This practice comes from a fear that food itself is the enemy for Great Danes.
A lot of people who support this practice also believe that grazing is exceptionally dangerous, and will say that it’s better to minimize eating and meals by only allowing food intake once or twice each day.
MYTH BUSTED: Studies show that large meals (heavy, full stomachs) actually INCREASE the risk that a dog may bloat!
Yikes!
Why is bloat seen more in dogs fed single large meals? The large meal puts a lot of strain on the hepatogastric ligament, which holds the stomach in place. Over time, chronic stretching may cause this ligament to become elongated and weak; a common feature in Danes that succumbed to bloat.
Not only that, but dogs that are restricted to one large meal/day may feel anxious about food and scarf the meal down as fast as possible, which are also major risk factors for bloat.
We believe in moderation here. Smaller, more frequent meals offered in a low stress environment and a puzzle feeder (to slow down eating) are MUCH healthier.
Myth #6 – Gulping Water Causes Bloat
Gulping water causes blurping (burps that bring up water), a belly ache, and maybe a parasite from drinking dirty pond water…but the great news is that studies show almost no correlation between water intake and bloat!
Many Dane owners have anxiety when their Great Dane plays in the water, swims, snorkels, runs in the sprinklers or splashes around.
These activities are fun and enriching to dogs and like all fun and enriching things, carry some risk.
Aspiration pneumonia is a common example.
However, dogs that are acclimated to water and swimming (those that have safe water skills, in other words) are not at increased risk of bloat just because they are playing in the water.
As above, find a balance between stressing out when your Dane eats and moves, and letting your Dane be a dog!
Myth #6 – They Don’t Know What Causes Bloat
Many Dane owners feel hopeless and frustrated when they hear this. The good news is that studies are ONGOING!
MYTH BUSTING: While there is no scientifically conclusive information on what actually ‘triggers’ a bloat event, there is a lot of science into why some dogs succumb to it and others don’t.
Bloat has three primary risk factors: GENETICS, TEMPERAMENT and GUT HEALTH.
Not all Great Danes have the same risk factors. Some have MUCH more risk of developing bloat than others do!
Bloat is a disease of large, deep-chested breeds and is most commonly seen in dogs that have a genetic link (parent, sibling, etc. who also suffered from it), who are anxious, fearful or aggressive, and/or who have poor gut health (IBS, excess gas, etc.).
All dogs are at risk, unfortunately. Use our guide below to assess the risk factors for your individual dog, and minimize the risks associated with bloat!
BLOAT RISK FACTORS
We may update this list when additional research comes available. At this time, the following items are known to contribute to bloat risk; they are on the list because they are backed by at least some scientific inquiry and research (not just tall tales). Research is ONGOING!
Give your dog one point for each item. How many points did your dog get? Remember, ALL DOGS are at risk, and some dogs with high risk never bloat!
Your dog is a Great Dane
Your dog is over the age of 2 (risk increases with age)
Your dog is over the age of 5
Your dog has experienced bloat before
Your dog has a 1st-degree relative that has experienced bloat (Parent, Sibling, etc.)
Your dog has had or also had any other relative that experienced bloat (Grandparent, Aunt, Uncle, etc.)
Your dog has an unknown or unstudied pedigree
Your dog was tested and carries 1-3 of the known risk alleles (see more HERE)
Your dog has a timid, fearful, or shy temperament
Your dog is under-socialized
Your dog is poorly trained and generally “difficult”
Your dog is anxious (may present as severe separation anxiety, reactivity and nervousness)
Your dog is often aggressive, snippy, or reactive
Your dog has a strong tendency to resource guard (food, toys, bones, beds, etc.)
Your dog suffers from IBS /Irritable Bowel Syndrome
Your dog has chronic poor overall gut health (allergies, loose stools, diarrhea that you struggle to resolve)
Your dog has heart/cardiac problems (which can cause a poorer prognosis if bloat happens)
Your dog is eating a dry food that is heavy in peas, lentils, potatoes, or legumes (which can damage the heart and make a bloat prognosis worse)
Your dog eats meals quickly and scarfs food down
Your dog is anxious while eating or worries about food
You use a raised feeder/bowls that are elevated more than 6-8″
You serve a single large meal each day, in lieu of smaller more frequent ones
Your dog is easily stressed by boarding, training, socializing, etc.
Your dog has experienced a stressful event (including rehoming, boarding, moving, a party, kids, etc.)
You often use harsh/punitive punishment based training (hitting, intimidation, kicking, scolding, etc.)
You only feed a dry kibble diet (no fresh or wet food toppers or treats)
Your dog is on a low-fiber diet
Your dog has an exceptionally deep and narrow chest compared to others
You feed a dry food from Victor, Fromm, Diamond, or 4Health that has fat in the first 4 ingredients
Your Great Dane is from a breeder that is not invested heavily in genetics, structure, health, temperament and longevity
LEGITIMATE WAYS TO DECREASE BLOAT RISK
Support only ethical breeders that understand genetics and are focused on health, temperament and longevity. Ask your breeder for a full history of the pedigree and verify no presence of bloat within at least 2 generations.
Choose Gastropexy
Work with a qualified behaviorist if your Dane is aggressive, anxious, fearful or timid. A veterinary behaviorist may be the best option for dogs with severe temperament problems
Know the signs of bloat and share that information with pet sitters, family and friends!
Don’t breed Great Danes unless you are willing to fully study genetics, structure, temperament and health (including full health testing, structural evaluation and genetic screening to better the breed as a whole and reduce genetic risk)
READ THE STUDIES
We’re not going to tell you all of this and then run off and not provide the studies we read!
Definitely check this out, and remember. ALL GREAT DANES ARE AT RISK, no matter where they are from, and what you do.
As much as we want to prevent bloat, it’s not 100% possible. Even a dog with little to no known risk factors can suffer from bloat and torsion!
We prefer to look at bloat prevention in terms of minimizing risk. When you think of it that way and address the small things, positive changes can happen for the Dane community as a whole.
Get out there and enjoy your dog!!!!
The information contained in this post is for informational purposes only. We do our best to present the most up-to-date research, however it is up to the reader to make decisions regarding the health and well-being of their dog. We make no claims here to prevent or treat bloat or any other condition related to Great Danes. Find a veterinarian with GIANT breed experience, and chat with them.
Some of the products we list on our website contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase, we may receive a small commission for referring you. We only recommend products that we truly believe in. This commission does not affect the price of the product and is used to fund our content and expenses related to operating this website.
I am a 99% positive dog trainer and I believe that a properly used E-Collar is an appropriate, helpful and humane training aid for many dogs and owners. Positive trainers, hear me out!
E-Collars are greatly misunderstood! People believe they are a tool of corrections, punishment, and force…and we are ready to change that narrative.
The truth is that I’ve spent YEARS cringing at any kind of electronic collar, judging people for using them, and paying close attention to the unfortunate behavioral problems that resulted from their use.
Aggression, fear, confusion, and aloof behavior seemed common. It bothered me. Like many positive-leaning dog trainers, I was alarmed, frustrated, and sad.
Shock collars are a dated tool that relies on fear, pain, punishment, and force. This blog is NOT pro-shock collar. We are, however,pro-responsibly used E-collar.
E-Collars are a modern invisible leash, and when used properly are less aversive and less harmful than:
-A long leash -A no-pull or front-clip harness -A head collar or Gentle Leader/Halti -Running off and being lost, hurt, or killed -Needless restrictions to freedom and choice done in the name of ‘positive only’ learning
What I had not yet realized at the time was that there was a growing movement of ethical, positive dog trainers who were using electronic collars in a different more dog-focused way. I was also unaware that an E-Collar is a very different device than a shock collar!
These trainers were actively speaking out against shock collars and inhumane training methods that relied on sharp static corrections and punishment.
I noticed that their E-Collar-trained dogs were happy, engaged, confident, and enjoyed freedoms that my dogs could only dream of. They were not aggressive, edgy, anxious, or aloof as the dogs I had seen trained with shock collars and there was no shouting, chasing, frustration, or constant management.
To put this simply, a properly used E-Collar is no more aversive than a collar, leash, or crate. Read on!
E-Collar Training for Dogs
Proper E-Collar training relies heavily on the dog having a POSITIVE association with the sensation. Modern E-Collars have 100 levels to choose from (like the Mini-Educator) so the communication for each dog is completely custom.
E-collars produce muscle stimulation, not a static shock. Most dogs enthusiastically work at stimulation levels that most humans cannot feel when they try it on themselves.
A lot of people say the sensation, when it’s turned up enough for them to feel it, is similar to marching ants or a small tingle.
The dog is taught to associate that feeling with treats and praise. When this is done correctly they become extremely engaged with and excited about the sensation and the training!
(It’s fun to put a proper E-Collar into the hands of somebody who is expecting to be shocked! They are always nervous because they do not yet understand and are anticipating being very uncomfortable. Once they feel it, their minds quickly change and they are laughing, curious, and asking questions!)
E-Collar Conditioning
When the dog has been conditioned to their E-Collar as above, they learn that the stimulation means to turn and come back. redirect and try something different. It becomes a game for them where they are in control of the stimulation, including turning it down and off by enthusiastically returning (recall).
This is a very different approach than ‘shock and startle’, and allows for the handler to communicate clearly with the dog from a larger distance than with any of the other similar options listed above.
Think of an E-Collar like a walkie-talkie for your dog!
MORE AVERSIVE THAN AN E-COLLAR
Now that we understand the basic concept behind how E-Collars feel to the dog are meant to be used, we can look at training tools and methods that are aversive:
Vibration. Many people rely on the ‘vibration’ button because they don’t want to shock their dog. That’s fair, shock collars SUCK. The truth however is that most dogs find a vibration to be MUCH more aversive than the stim (stimulation) from an E-Collar. Subtle signs of stress include lip licking, scratching, head shaking, cowering, hunched posture, stiffness, shaking off, pinned ears, and avoidance.
Shock Collars. Shock collars deliver a sharp static correction that is painful and has been scientifically proven to increase stress, fear, and anxiety. We do NOT recommend shock collars, especially cheap ones from Amazon or pet stores. Shock collar training is a completely different practice and product than E-Collars and E-Collar training.
Head Collars. These provide constant pressure/stimulation to the head and may cause an over-excited or frightful dog to whip their head around and potentially damage their spine. Head collars also require proper conditioning. Many dogs find them extremely aversive to wear and will pant, paw, become frantic, or shut down without proper slow early introductions and desensitization. They work because they are extremely aversive.
No-Pull Harnesses. These harnesses rely on obstructing the way that the dog’s front limbs and shoulders move. They put constant pressure on the chest and impede natural movement, especially if the dog pulls. They are often seen as a ‘positive’ tool, despite this. We do not support the use of no-pull harnesses, nor the notion that they are ‘gentle’ and ‘positive’.
Electric Invisible Fences. Most (not all) invisible fences rely on automated shock corrections. Shock-based invisible fences are known to increase reactivity and barrier frustration in the yard. The shock correction is typically very harsh and many dogs yelp or cower when they experience it. This includes the HALO GPS fence collar, which unlike an E-Collar, does not teach your dog enthusiastic recall – only avoidance.
Long Leashes. Long leashes are necessary before a dog has a reliable recall and in areas where being off-leash is illegal or unsafe. Ultimately, however, off-leash freedom (and the gentle stim from an E-Collar that can become the cue to return from a distance) is MUCH less aversive than always being on a long leash, or having the long leash used as a ‘fishing lure’ to drag the dog back. Dogs on a long leash cannot move the same way as a dog off-leash, and freedom from physical restrictions is wonderful for a dog’s mental and physical health and condition.
Collars and Harnesses. Dogs that pull or lunge against any kind of harness or collar may feel pressure and tension on their neck, chest, armpits, stomach, and throat. Leash reactivity is often directly related to the built-in physical restrictions and tension of the leash and collar, a sensation that makes many dogs anxious and uncomfortable. On the flip side, a dog that is trained with gentle stim to recall or redirect is more likely able to enjoy off-leash freedom and outdoor exploration, activities which will always be more enriching and less stressful to most dogs than a restrictive walk on pavement.
Squirt Bottle. Squirt bottles, like shock collars, teach dogs to fear the circumstances and may even teach them to fear water and being sprayed. Many dog owners rely on the squirt bottle as a threat and the dog never really learns right from wrong, which is aversive in and of itself. Unlike E-Collars, no positive association is ever made to being squirted in the face.
Errorless Learning/BehaviorManagement. Management is an important and necessary part of dog training! However, when management is used as a supposed ‘positive’ alternative to communication (and yes, appropriate corrections), it may be inhumane and unfair. Read on…
ENDLESS RESTRICTIONS
The common response from trainers who wish to avoid any kind of stimulus that could be seen as aversive (including the E-Collar on a low level, used on a dog taught to associate the tingle with treats) will be to advocate for strict behavior management and a positive only approach.
Behavior management includes leashes, escape-proof harnesses, martingale collars, withholding access, gates and crates which can all be used to make sure that the dog cannot make a mistake (such as slipping a collar or jumping a fence).
These are all tools and techniques that can be aversive in and of themselves.
Management is an important part of proper training, however, many overlook how aversive many management techniques can be for the dog.
Dogs need us to communicate with them, and that includes establishing boundaries and giving them the ‘full picture’ of the world they live in. Dogs that live restricted lives with no freedom to make mistakes can become confused and often become needlessly shut down, frantic, anxious, frustrated or reactive.
Isolating a dog from experiences in the name of the long haul ‘positive only/errorless learning’ approach may actually be inhumane and will almost definitely be more aversive to a dog than communication from an E-Collar paired with positive reinforcement.
Endless restrictions to freedom and experiences suck.
FIGARO, THE FENCE JUMPER
We have a friendly, confident, positively trained (clicker + treats) Great Dane with great recall and polite manners. He’s young, full of life, athletic and awesome. I BELIEVE in positive training!
One day he learned that he could get over the fence, into the neighbor’s yard to play with their terrier. The neighbor was NOT amused.
To address this, Figaro spent the next three weeks on a long leash in the yard while I taught him new fence boundaries and prevented the behavior. I used a clicker and taught him to redirect away from the fence and to ignore the neighbor’s dog. IT WORKED!
But the entire time my sweet Dane baby was heartbroken. He HATED being on a leash in the yard. He hunched his head, walked slowly, and wouldn’t stay outside with me for long. For most of the three weeks, he moped around the house. This was despite the fact that I did everything I could to make it positive and fun, and despite the fact that anywhere else in the world he was perfectly happy to be on a leash.
If all you’ve ever known was freedom to explore the backyard, how crappy would it be to suddenly have no freedom at all?
The long-haul positive approach rooted in strict management and behavior prevention ended up being aversive to him, and he’s not alone!
I now know that a highly positive approach paired with conditioning to the E-Collar (so he could be off-leash while learning and have the stim available to redirect him if needed) would have been less aversive, faster, more humane, and more appropriate for him.
Do not buy into the marketing that tells you a long leash and strict management are better for a dog than an E-Collar! Modern technology and education is changing this narrative.
OH, BUT WHAT ABOUT THE STUDIES?
For every study out there claiming that shock collars and E-Collars are bad, there is another study claiming that they are perfectly acceptable.
These studies are often flawed. No distinction is made between a shock collar and the E-Collar (they often lump the two devices into the same, which is a massive fault in the origins of the study), and no practice is made of making sure the Electric collar trained dogs in the study had been properly and positively conditioned to the collar in the first place.
Most studies that indicate elevated stress levels associated with electronic collars were done on dogs where the ‘Easy button’ method was used, and training only took place over days or at best, weeks.
In other words, the training method being ‘studied’ often involved asking a dog for a recall, offering very little positive reinforcement, requiring a lot of dogs in a short period of time and using the stim or shock to ‘punish’ them for not coming when called.
Of course that is going to elevate stress levels, especially in the context of the unusual environment of a study! The stim is not meant to be used as a punishment, and shock collars will never be an appropriate training tool. So comparing those studies to the way modern, positive trainers are using E-Collars isn’t fair.
The correct approach to E-Collar training a recall involves creating a positive association including happy, engaged body language to the stim (R+), developing a foundation in recall using treats and praise (R+), using a long leash to prevent errors, and then teaching the dog that stim + come = come back (R+, again).
Many E-Collar trainers then strengthen the recall by also teaching the dog that the feeling of the stim (marching ants) becomes weaker the closer the dog gets to the handler (making recall even MORE rewarding through a very gentle version of ‘negative reinforcement’ where the dog is completely in control of the stim, not the handler).
Is the stimulation annoying? At some levels, yes, it can be. But as above, so is a long leash. The difference here is that the E-Collar provides freedom and choice, while the long leash does not.
THINK OF IT LIKE A CLICKER, TREATS OR BRAIN GAMES.
E-collars do not have to be aversive, painful, or punishing. It is a huge mistake to use them that way.
We think there is space for E-Collars in the positive trainer’s toolbox, especially with the knowledge that the stim is less aversive to most dogs than many traditional techniques and tools. Many owners and trainers report that after just a few weeks of E-Collar conditioning, their dogs are happier, calmer, easier to live with, and much, much more confident!
E-Collars can lead to more freedom; natural movement, unobstructed by collars and harnesses, and well-trained dogs that understand how to play the stim AND the treat game.
All of the Pandemic Puppies flooding into rescue right now have me thinking, once again, about backyard breeders.
So for fun, I hopped into CANVA and made a backyard breeder bingo card that you can share to your IG story or on your blog! Just right click and steal it from us, we will DEFINITELY allow you to take and share this one! (Though, we do ask that you keep the board as-is and don’t crop or photoshop it). You can tag us on IG @hellodanes
I will clarify each square below! Note, this card is in reference to backyard breeders who INTENTIONALLY breed dogs for profit. Not truly accidental or rescue litters. Please also see our note below the post about how ALL dogs do deserve a home, and how you can make sure that happens without supporting unethical breeding practices!
Why is backyard breeding such a problem? Because unethical breeding practices are almost solely responsible for heartbreak, sick dogs, aggression, health problems and the sheer volume of dogs that are overwhelming our Great Dane rescues right now.
BUY NOW BUTTON/ONLINE STORE – This is always shady business for two reasons. Number one, a lot of ‘scam’ breeders with no puppies at all use this as a money grab and two, no ethical breeder is going to let you just checkout/purchase a puppy without getting to know you first. Never, EVER purchase a puppy by using a ‘buy now’ or online checkout option, even if you think the breeder is ‘reputable’.
NO LIFETIME BREEDER SUPPORT – Ethical breeders care VERY much about the lives they produce. They never want to see a single one of their dogs in rescue or sick because of a congenital or genetic problem. Ethical breeders will support you if something pops up from training issues to health problems, and will be there for you even if you are simply unable to care for the dog you purchased. Backyard breeders? They just want your money and to be done with it. Ask every Dane sitting in rescue right now if their breeder cared where they ended up in life…
UKC OR CKC/CONTINENTAL KENNEL CLUB REGISTRATIONS – These registries (not to be confused with the CANADIAN Kennel Club/CKC, which is reputable) are littered with litters from backyard breeders. Any breeder that cannot obtain a real AKC or Canadian registration will go to the UKC or the Continental Club. Reasons that your breeder may not have AKC or Canadian registrations? They may not have had breeding rights for the parents they were breeding, the pedigree is mixed or the lineage is unknown. Either way you shake it, it’s unlikely those dogs should have been bred.
DOESN’T ADHERE TO GDCA ETHICS BASICS – We are consistently astounded how many ‘friendly’ and ‘caring’ breeders miss the boat on the ethics of breeding put forth by the Great Dane Club of America (and Canada). If you are going to breed Great Danes, shouldn’t the parent club be your resource and guide? Read their ethics and recommendations here, and make sure your breeder is following these basic guidelines when developing a breeding program: https://gdca.org/breeders/code-of-ethics
‘DESIGNER’ COLORS IS THE MAIN SELLING POINT – Off-standard colors really shouldn’t be a problem, however many backyard breeders are so focused on creating popular and unique colors that they disregard temperament and sound structure. Color should NEVER be the main selling point of a breeding program. Health, temperament and structure first, always. After that? If the color fits, wear it.
SPOT-TO-SPOT BREEDING/DOUBLE MERLE – Breeding two dogs together that each carry the merle gene (you know, the gene responsible for those pretty merle coats and MANY ‘designer’ colors), each puppy has a 1-in-4 chance of receiving both copies of that gene. Sounds ok, right? It’s not. These dogs are called ‘double merle’ and many of them have significant health problems, blindness and/or deafness. Read more about double-merle dogs here: https://www.hellodanes.com/double-merle-great-danes/
BREEDING RIGHTS FOR ANY BUYER/FULL AKC – Ethical breeders will be very cautious about selling a puppy to somebody that wants to use it for breeding. While it seems like you should be able to do whatever you want with a purchased dog, we have to remember that dogs aren’t couches. They are living beings, and breeding them is a massive responsibility. Ethical breeders protect their lineage and understand the difference between a ‘pet’ Dane and one that has the correct structure and genetics to be bred. Want to breed? Find an ethical breeder and ask them to mentor you. Prove that you care about developing a sound breeding program; this will greatly increase your chances of getting access to purchase a quality foundation dog for your program.
PARENTS HAVE BAD STRUCTURE, FEAR OR AGGRESSION – A lot of breeders who sourced their foundation dogs from breeders that didn’t care if they bred the dog or not (see above) are also the same types that are breeding dogs with structural and temperament faults. Flat feet, roached backs, bad angulation, extremely red droopy eyes, fear and aggression…these are NOT things that should be passed onto a litter of puppies. Breeding a dog like this ignorant and gross. Meet the parents! They should be excellent examples of the breed standard with beautiful movement and structure and wonderful personalities. Ethical breeders are very proud of the parents they are breeding. Want to learn more about structure? Read the written standard here: https://gdca.org/wp-content/uploads/TheGreatDane/An-Illustrated-Standard-and-Guide-for-the-Evaluation-of-the-Great-Dane-1.pdf
NO CONTRACT REQUIRED – If a breeder doesn’t require a contract, it’s a sign that they do NOT care who you are as the buyer, do NOT care to support the dog for life, don’t offer any kind of legitimate health guarantee, don’t care if you breed or not, don’t care if you surrender to a rescue. THEY DON’T CARE. Contracts outlining responsibilities, health and return requirements are a must. Verbal contracts likely don’t hold up in court, either so be suspicious when a breeder doesn’t want to put anything in writing.
MINIMAL EARLY SOCIALIZATION PROGRAM – Keeping dogs in a barn or on a tile floor with a short play session on grass and some exposure to kids or farm animals is NOT thorough socialization! Ethical breeders focus a lot of effort into creating confident puppies by exposing them to a huge variety of sounds, textures and experiences. They have puppies exploring obstacles (tires, water, ramps, gym mats, etc.), facing their frustrations and learning about household sounds (vacuums, for example), nail maintenance (clippers and dremel), crating, potty training, kids, handling, exams, collar/leash and more. Puppy Culture, ENS and Avidog are examples of appropriate early socialization programs.
SHIPS ASAP/WILL SHIP ANYWHERE – Dogs. Are. Not. Couches. If a breeder is willing to ship live animals that deserve love, affection, training and a good home to anybody sight unseen, TREAD CAUTIOUSLY. Some ethical breeders and rescues will ship dogs, but they require extensive checks into references and a video call or local visit to see your home and where the dog will be living. They will often use a network or a transportation nanny to move through the system with the dog and ensure it arrives comfortably and in perfect health!
PUPPIES ARE TIMID OR SCARED – If you go to meet the puppies, or see photos and videos and notice they are timid or scared, there is a HUGE problem. The breeder may be breeding timid/fearful parents, not socializing the puppies, abusing the puppies or the puppies have health issues. Any way you shake this, it’s bad news. Puppies should be energetic, bouncy, curious and playful. Not afraid. Contrary to popular belief, being ‘timid’ is NOT a ‘Great Dane Thing’.
IT’S YOUR DOG, DO WHAT YOU WANT – This is a breeder that is breeding for profit and has no desire to support you as the buyer or ensure that the puppy is never surrendered to rescue, bred unethically or abandoned. They want to wash their hands of you and the dog and they package that dirty practice up in a neat phrase that sounds like they are giving you more ‘freedom’ as a dog owner. Yikes.
PUPPIES SENT HOME BEFORE 8 WEEKS – This is money grab central, folks. Breeders get tired of the puppies and from 6-8 weeks they eat a TON of $$ food, they are noisy, they are annoying, the mama dog is over it. A breeder that sends a puppy home prior to 8 weeks is setting that dog up to fail, however. They need corrections from their mama and littermates to learn bite control and appropriate play, as well as dog interactions, confidence and more. Read more about why taking dogs home before 8 weeks is both unethical and a huge problem here. There are very, very few reasons for a breeder to do this, and 99% of them are not a good reason. https://www.hellodanes.com/why-great-dane-puppies-should-stay-with-the-litter-until-8-weeks/
UNDERAGE PARENTS (UNDER 2) – While some sources allow for dogs to be bred prior to 18-24 months, in Great Danes we consider this practice to be extremely unethical. Growth plates are not even fully closed yet on a Dane that isn’t 2: giant breed dogs don’t mature until at least then. Additionally, you cannot fully register some health testing results with www.ofa.org until a dog is 2 years old. All dogs should be fully tested (and passed) before being bred, so jumping the line with an underage stud (and especially with an underage dam) is bad practice.
‘CHAMPION’ BLOODLINES BUT NO AKC, FCI, of CKC/CANADIAN KENNEL CLUB CH., GCH. or BIS TITLES – ANYBODY can put together a dog show and award ribbons and ‘champion’ titles. The only legitimate champion lineage comes from the major, reputable registries that work with the breeds established parent club: AKC, Canadian Kennel Club and FCI. The pedigree should be well-documented. Say what you want about ‘show dogs’, but dogs that have been awarded real CH. titles are excellent examples of the breed. Dogs that have been awarded fake or low quality CH. titles? Seems pretty shady to us…
NO APPLICATION REQUIRED – Without an application, how is a breeder to know if you are a legitimate, caring, committed home or not? Remember, abusive people can be friendly when you meet them in person. Good breeders want information about your home, your experience with Giant breed dogs, children in the house, your desire to work with your dog or breed it, and whether or not you actually plan to seek vet care, professional training and otherwise. They are more interested in choosing the right home for each puppy than in going down the list and selling puppies as fast as possible.
VERY FEW PHOTOS OF ADULT DOGS – A good breeder is going to be proud of the parents. Be wary of any breeder where the focus is primarily on puppies (profit generator) instead of on the adults, the lineage, structure and health. There should be several clear photos of the adult dogs being bred, ideally where you can see their structure and possibly even seeing them interacting with people, dogs and even kids. If a breeder is hiding photos of the adults or isn’t sharing them as much as (if not more so) than the puppies, be curious about WHY. The adults may be being abused, are sick or are poor examples of the breed.
PARTIAL OR NO OFA HEALTH TESTING – OFA Health testing is so much more than a vet check, and it’s extremely important. Each dog being bred should have hip/elbow x-rays to test for abnormalities (including dysplasia), an echocardiogram to test for genetic and congenital heart problems, a thyroid test and an eye exam with a board certified veterinary ophthalmologist. Make NO mistake, a breeder that skips these tests or only does one of them so they can ‘claim’ to be ‘OFA health tested’ is likely being SHADY. Proper health testing costs money and may require that the breeder wait before breeding or remove a dog from their program. They tend to skim over testing or avoid it altogether because of this. The results should be published to www.ofa.org for you to verify.
PUPPIES HAVE FLAT FEET/WORMS/KNUCKLING – Yeah, this is backyard breeder territory. Experienced, thoughtful Dane breeders know how to deal with (and avoid) flat feet and knuckling. Flat feet may also be genetic (yikes!). There is no excuse in the world for a puppy to have disease, sores or WORMS. Gross. However, these things are fairly common with some of the worst breeders…even the ones that appear ‘popular’ or ‘friendly’.
NO TITLES ON ANY DOGS – did you know there are 100’s of titles a dog can obtain that have nothing to do with dog shows? A breeder that is active with their dogs, or that has owners who are active with them, will have titles in the lineage that include everything from obedience (CGC) to dock diving, scent work and more. While many breeders don’t obtain titles (and it’s not automatically a ‘bad’ thing), it’s one standard we do like to see considered more often. Look for titles in the lineage and from other puppy buyers, proving that the Danes being made are enthusiastic, well-tempered and trainable. A litter of puppies built with the correct temperament to obtain Canine Good Citizen titles is a litter of puppies that will make EXCELLENT family pets!
BREEDING FOR COLOR BEFORE HEALTH – This is a huge can of worms. Great Danes come in piles of beautiful, interesting and unique colors. Only 7 are colors that are considered ‘standard’ and can be shown. There are questionable ethics and a lot of argument regarding both sides of this fence; some believe off-standard colors are bad while others believe they are necessary, with opinions everywhere in between. Our position is that off-standard colors are ok IF the breeder is focused first on health, structure, temperament, lineage, and the breed as a whole. If the breeding program is focused first on color, odds are you’re going to have a lot of dogs with interesting coat colors that have poor structure, instability and worse…shortened life spans. These are all genetics that they may pass on to future generations, too. It’s not fair to paint a dog ‘lilac fawnequin’ if obtaining that also means that it will be born with a heart defect, allergies and cow hocks. Color is fun, but don’t believe for a second that color is the only reason to choose which parents to breed.
SELLING IN A FACEBOOK GROUP – Yup, we’re going to go there with this one. Some breeders make themselves appear ‘popular’ and even ‘reputable’ because they are so NOISY trying to sell puppies on social media. They post available puppies and litters in Facebook groups, often multiple times with very slow sales, indicating largely that they bred their dogs before knowing if there was even any interest in them. With RARE exception, ethical breeders often have waitlists and will not need to resort to desperately trying to ‘home’ an 8+ week old puppy on social media. This is actually a RED flag and not a sign that a breeder is popular simply because you keep seeing their name pop up in your local community.
EVERY DOG DESERVES A HOME
Nobody is saying that a dog from a backyard breeder is any less deserving of love or a home.
But before you focus only on the cute puppies, take a look at the 100’s of dogs sitting in rescue right now. Many of them are unadoptable, require insane amounts of funding for their veterinary needs, have significant issues with their training and socialization and may have permanent medical problems (including missing limbs, megaesophagus, being blind or deaf or needing heart medications for life).
ALL of these dogs deserve homes. The problem is, every time we support a backyard breeder, we directly fund the production of the same animals that end up with expensive health problems, abused, neglected, abandoned and unwanted. There are so many backyard breeders, and so many more about to breed again, because people keep buying dogs from them.
When they can’t sell the puppies, they will typically give them away or surrender them to rescue…at which point, the applications FLOOD in and the puppies all find homes. But the 4 year old dog in rescue that has resource guarding issues and permanent joint damage because of his congenital flat feet? That dog may never find a home…and it’s the backyard breeders we have to blame for that.
On one side, we have people saying ‘adopt don’t shop’. They scream this from the rooftops as if all of the dogs in rescue are a good fit or even available to every person who wants a dog.
On the other side, we have people who think that all it takes to be a breeder is to have a dog with AKC papers. Diligence, ethics, and care be damned.
Then there are those of us in the middle.
I believe that there is room for BOTH ethical breeders and rescue.
The Rescues are FULL!
This right here is the #1 reason you should probably NOT breed your dog.
The rescues are full of dogs from breeders who didn’t care where those dogs ended up.
They weren’t diligent about health and temperament, and created puppies that ended up in rescue because of abuse, lack of education, aggression, allergies, wobblers, blindness, deafness, and separation anxiety.
Do you want to contribute to that problem?
The rescues are not full of dogs from careful, thoughtful, ethical breeders that have proven their lines, fully tested their dogs, socialized the puppies, and supported buyers for life.
An unintended consequence of this is that it ALSO means that all dogs come from backyard breeders.
It is that simple, and what is happening is that more and more we are seeing dogs with insane health and temperament problems that make them a poor fit for many families.
Don’t be a backyard breeder. Empty the rescues by not contributing to the problem in the first place.
Ethical Breeding Matters
There is absolutely nothing wrong with thoughtful, careful breeding and with choosing to purchase a dog from a reputable breeder.
All breeders start somewhere. We just encourage you to start closer to the finish line!
Keep in mind that one of the main tenants behind ethical breeding is lifetime support.
If you aren’t willing to stand behind the puppies you create and their owners for life, stop now.
See how many of these items you can check off. If you can’t for some reason, ask yourself if breeding your dog really is the best choice.
Are we kind of snobby about this? Yup.
Hint, you should be too! Being labelled as a ‘backyard breeder’ isn’t cute.
The dog you want to breed is a purebred Great Dane with a known lineage.
You’ve studied and can verify that the lineage, and your dog is free of aggression, anxiety, IMGD, bloat, wobblers, seizures, entropion and Von Willebrand’s disease.
The breeder you got your dog from meets all of the requirements on this checklist AND supports you.
The dog you want to breed has full (not limited) registration/papers (AKC or Canadian Kennel Club only).
The dog you want to breed does not have flat feet, a roached back, a short neck, weak rear, cow hocks, steep croup, excessive jowls, incorrect front limbs or extremely droopy eyes.
The dog you want to breed is an outstanding example of a ‘gentle giant’. He or she should be courageous and friendly, not timid or aggressive. Having a Canine Good Citizen and/or AKC Temperament Test title is a huge bonus!
Your dog is at least 2 years old.
You are willing to pay for, at minimum the following health tests: veterinary check, Hip + Elbow x-rays, thyroid test, Echocardiogram, Eye Exam with a board certified opthamologist, genetics screening (color), genetics screening (other as needed).
You are willing to not breed your dog if those tests are not passed with flying colors.
You understand color genetics, including what causes Double Merle puppies and are focused first and health and temperament.
You have potential puppy buyers lined up before breeding and are willing to be extremely diligent in choosing owners.
You are willing to support your puppies for life, and that includes ensuring that they never end up abused, neglected or in rescue for any reason.
You are willing to keep the puppies for a minimum of 8 weeks, and employ a dedicated socialization program (Puppy Culture is a good example).
You will only sell the puppies on a limited contract, especially until your breeding program is well established and you know how to choose buyers that are interested in your lines and ethical breeding.
You are willing to find a suitable mate that meets all of the above requirements.
We support rescues AND thoughtful, diligent breeders.
We believe that educating people about the difference between backyard and ethical breeders can pave the way to clearing the rescues much faster than ‘adopt don’t shop’ ever can, and will promote health and stable temperaments in the breed that we love.
We have to turn this ship around, folks. Too many Danes are being bred with severe health problems and questionable temperaments.
