5 Tips for Leash Training Great Danes

5 Tips for Leash Training Great Danes

Teaching your Great Dane to walk politely on a leash is an important skill that can reduce your risk of injury, and theirs too! 

Does your Great Dane pull a lot, choke themselves on their leash and embarrass you in public? 

You’ve come to the right place! Here are our top 5 tips for leash training your Great Dane! 

1. CHOOSE THE RIGHT GEAR

When leash training your Great Dane, we recommend starting with a flat buckle or martingale collar and a quality leash. (More info on no-pull tools is offered later in the blog!). 

Martingale collars are escape proof and a great choice for dogs that easily back out of collars. (You can purchase beautiful, handmade martingale collars from Magnolia Mutts. She donates profits to Great Dane rescues). 

Or choose a 1.5-2.0″ wide collar, some of our favorites are below. 

You can view our leashes post here: https://www.hellodanes.com/the-best-leashes-for-great-danes/

2. USE HIGH VALUE TREATS & LOTS OF PRAISE

One big reason so many people struggle with walking their Great Dane on a leash is that they haven’t put enough time yet into teaching the dog the correct behavior.

Positive reinforcement is the best way to teach the dog what you want: in this case, walking by your side!

You can practice rewarding your dog after just one step, then two, then five and so on until you are confidently walking down the block. Keep the leash loose in your hands and encourage your dog to interact with you! Don’t worry, like any training tool, the goal here is to completely fade out the use of the treats. Take it easy and gradually replace treats with praise over time. 

Need a place to carry the treats? We LOVE this training bag on Amazon.

3. START IN A LOW DISTRACTION AREA

You can give your dog all the treats in the world, but it WILL NOT work if you are trying to train your dog when they are already distracted and pulling. 

You must start your leash skills training indoors where the environment is predictable and boring. 

Kind of like Kindergarten! Work at your dogs level and only approach college level requirements when your dog is actually ready for it. Thoroughly teach the ‘HEEL’ or ‘WITH ME’ commands so you can work your way up to doing those skills in a more distracting area. Set up an obstacle course in your house and practice loose leash walking around it! 

4. KEEP PRACTICING

Work on your leash training skills for a few minutes each, several times per day both off-leash and on in your living room and fenced yard if you have one. 

As your dog is better able to keep the leash loose and focus on you, offer lots of praise and work on this skill in a new (but still easy) area such as Home Depot (on a quiet day) or a quiet park. Remember, you can train your dog to ‘HEEL’ the same way you train any other trick. It’s just a game! 

Make sure to allow your dog PLENTY of time to also sniff about and explore. This calm enrichment teaches them to be comfortable in the environment. Stay positive and aware of your surroundings AND your own behavior. Tension from you = tension from your dog. 

5. LEARN ABOUT TRAINING TOOLS FOR GREAT DANES

Many people are curious about the best leash training tools for Great Danes. Here is our quick rundown on tools that can be used, but that must ALSO be paired with proper training mentioned above.

Head Collar – This popular tool relies on pressure to your dog’s face. Many dogs find it to be aversive and will paw at it, whine or even shut down. This option should be paired with diligent conditioning and training to prevent pulling in the first place, as a dog that lunges in a head collar can injure himself. 

Prong Collar – This collar distributes pressure evenly around the dog’s neck. When used properly, a prong collar will not pop a balloon! They look like torture, but if you fit it and use it right, it can be a helpful tool. We recommend working with a trainer; jerking your dog around or purely relying on a prong collar is not how this tool works. Herm Sprenger brand is the only good choice.

No-Pull Harness – No pull and front-clip harnesses rely on the same concept as prong collars and head collars; applying pressure that makes it uncomfortable to pull and rewarding to stop. No Pull Harnesses also alter the way a dog moves, may throw them off balance and nearly always restrict the shoulders. We do not recommend them for any reason. The exception may be a y-front harness (shown below) with a front-clip, if necessary. 

Chain Collar –  Chain collars look cool, but they should not be used as a ‘necklace’. Trainers use them as an audible correction; they are not meant to choke the dog. The ‘zip’ of the chain sliding through the ring is enough to get most dogs attention, but it will not work if the dog is already pulling into the collar. We believe there are better choices, however for this option we recommend a martingale style chain (see below). 

E-Collar – the modern high-quality E-Collar, when used properly, is more humane and less aversive than any other training tool (including no-pull harness and head collar) listed above. They CAN be used for leash skills, too, but you have to do it right. Read more in our E-Collar training guide here: https://www.hellodanes.com/product/great-dane-e-collar-training-guide/

ALL tools can be used incorrectly and result in pain, fear and downright abuse. It’s up to you to learn about each tool before using it on your dog. 

 

The information contained in this post is for informational purposes only. We do our best to present the most up-to-date research, however it is up to the reader to make decisions regarding the health and well-being of their dog. We make no claims here to prevent or treat bloat or any other condition related to Great Danes. Find a veterinarian with GIANT breed experience, and chat with them. 

Some of the products we list on our website contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase, we may receive a small commission for referring you. This commission does not affect the price of the product and is used to fund this website and our content. 

What Does Euro Mean in Great Danes?

What Does Euro Mean in Great Danes?

If you are looking for a Great Dane puppy, or are just interested in the breed, you may be curious about what the word ‘Euro’ means!

Many breeders will claim that the puppies they are selling are a specific percentage of Euro, or will say that the puppies have ‘Euro’ parents. 

There are actually a lot of misunderstandings about ‘Euro’ vs. ‘American’ Danes, and we’re going to clear that up today! Read on to learn about what Euro means in Great Danes. 

WHAT DOES ‘EURO’ MEAN IN GREAT DANES?

Common features of the ‘Euro’ type Great Dane include:

  • Shorter, bulkier and stockier structure
  • Heavier weight
  • Larger, more dome-shaped head
  • Bigger jowls and ears
  • Wide-set eyes that are often droopy and may have red haw showing

Being Euro does NOT necessarily mean that a Great Dane is European!

Many common traits of the ‘Euro’ Great Dane are considered significant faults by the actual European standard for Great Danes. Especially the red droopy eyes, dome-shaped heads and oversized jowls.  

Many ethical European Great Dane breeders are actually pretty frustrated that so many people think all European Danes are droopy and heavy. 

A Euro Great Dane

EURO vs. AMERICAN GREAT DANES

Every purebred dog has a written standard.

The U.S. follows the standard written by the Great Dane Club of America, while Europe uses the standard written by the FCI.

According to these standards, a Great Dane from Europe should look very much the same as a Great Dane from the U.S., as both standards are nearly identical on paper (don’t believe us? Click the links above to read them!). 

Below are two well-bred European Great Danes. Well-bred dogs have good structure, health and type (they look like the breed standard). 

 

Just as ‘Euro’ might imply that a dog is heavier and drooper, many use the word ‘American’ to imply that a dog is lighter and more ‘greyhound’ like. Neither the ‘Euro’ nor the ‘American’ type dog meets the gold standard or goals for the breed as a whole. 

To compare, here is a well-bred Great Dane from the U.S., bred with the standard in mind. He is neither too refined, nor is he droopy and heavy. He is still a large, well-built dog. Bruce and the European bred dogs above are nearly the same. 

WHAT DOES EURO MEAN FOR GREAT DANES?

In many ways, the deliberate pursuit of some exaggerated ‘Euro’ traits is unethical.

Great Danes are already huge dogs and should not be intentionally bred for larger and stockier frames, droopier eyes and larger jowls,, especially if structural health, eye health, heart health and longevity is casually ignored as a result.

If you are looking for a Great Dane breeder, Euro or not, verify the following: 

  • Both parents have received and passed full health testing, including hip xrays, heart echocardiogram, thyroid panel and eye exam. 
  • Both parents have excellent structure, including neat eyes, tight feet, straight backs (no ‘roach’ or sway), well-developed chests and well-angled limbs. 
  • Both parents have excellent temperaments, free of aggression, fear and anxiety.
  • The breeder will support you for the life of the dog.

 

How to Prevent Knuckling in Great Danes

How to Prevent Knuckling in Great Danes

Knuckling in Great Danes is a serious issue, but one that is very treatable!  

While catching it early is important, ideally you want to prevent knuckling in the first place! 

Before we get started, you may also be interested in information about whether or not your Great Dane is knuckling and how to treat it

Read on for our tips to preventing knuckling in Great Danes! 

prevent knuckling

HOW TO PREVENT KNUCKLING

1. Avoid hard and slick surfaces. This includes wood, tile and yes, concrete! Puppies need soft places to rest their joints, walk and exercise. Do not allow your puppy to slide around on floors or jump off furniture.

Put down lots of area rugs keep joints safe and cushioned. We love washable rugs from Ruggable; they are perfect for homes with puppies, look beautiful and offer just enough softness and traction.

2. Strengthen toes. Strong feet are important to ensure that your puppy has a solid foundation to grow on. Walk and play on soft surfaces such bedding, gym mats, sand, gravel, dirt and grass.

3. Trim those nails. Keep nails short with weekly maintenance, starting as soon as your puppy is home with you! We love Millers Forge Red Handle clippers for tiny puppy nails, and introducing a rotary tool asap for when they are bigger.

4. Feed an appropriate diet. Choose a large or giant breed adult OR puppy formula with meat and meat meals in the first ingredients, protein levels below 28%, calcium at or below 1.4% and phosphorus close behind. Nutrisource Large Breed and Nulo Front Runner are favorites of ours.

Other Dane owners love Diamond Naturals Large Breed, Purina Pro Plan Large or Giant Breed and Eukanuba Large Breed.

Do NOT mix kibble brands. Choose one and stick with it.

5. Watch the treats. Do not let supplements, toppers or treats make up more than 10% of the overall intake. An unbalanced diet is a leading factor in knuckling.

6. Add Ester C
and Probiotics to the diet. We like Esther C as it’s non-acidic and digestible
and Probios, Native Pet or Nature’s Farmacy Probiotics. 

7. Minimize crate time. Crates are important for training, however Great Dane puppies need freedom to move naturally to develop joints, tendons and bones. Limit crate time, especially if your puppy is in a crate overnight.

Great Dane puppy joints are fragile and need to be cared for.

With proper care, knuckling over is preventable and treatable. Without care, knuckled limbs may become painful and permanently deformed.

All of these things we listed work together to help prevent and treat knuckling over in Great Dane puppies. Protect the joints, strengthen the joints and lastly, provide the correct nutrition. 

Need more Great Dane puppy knuckling resources? See our knuckling articles HERE.

Feel free to right-click, save and share this graphic below!

The information contained in this post is for informational purposes only. We do our best to present the most up-to-date research, however it is up to the reader to make decisions regarding the health and well-being of their dog. We make no claims here to prevent or treat bloat or any other condition related to Great Danes. Find a veterinarian with GIANT breed experience, and chat with them. 

Some of the products we list on our website contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase, we may receive a small commission for referring you. This commission does not affect the price of the product and is used to fund this website and our content. 

Halo Dog Collar Review (Cesar Millan Dog Training GPS Collar)

Halo Dog Collar Review (Cesar Millan Dog Training GPS Collar)

The Halo Collar is a new dog training collar by reality TV star Cesar Millan.

People are interested in the Halo Dog training collar because it offers something no other device has yet: automated boundaries for your dog based on a phone app.

The idea is amazing. Put this Halo Collar on your dog, draw a boundary on a map in the phone app and the collar will keep your dog inside of the boundary.

Imagine the possibilities! This is an idea that many people have asked about but no company had done gracefully yet. These devices are marketed as a modern alternative to traditional invisible shock fences.

This is our review of the HALO Collar by Cesar Milan.

WHAT IS THE HALO DOG COLLAR?

The Halo Dog collar is an automated E-Collar. It uses sound, vibration, and electronic stimulation to teach and reinforce invisible boundaries. 

Using a phone app that is connected to the collar, you can create an invisible fence. 

The collar will, in theory, keep your dog inside of that invisible fence. This could be very helpful technology!

If your dog gets out of the boundary that you set, despite warnings and corrections, you are supposed to be able to find your dog with the included GPS tracker. 

The Halo collar retails for nearly $1000 (yes, you read that correctly!) but is occasionally seen offered at around $799. The monthly fees to use the app are an additional cost. Without a paid monthly subscription, the features of the collar are very limited.

It comes in two colors and three sizes; the largest size Halo Collar expands to 30.5″ and may or may not fit your Great Dane. 

Now, if you have spent any time on our site, you know that we support ethical, positive and humane E-Collar use. (We have a guide on how to do this, you can read more about our method and check it out here: https://www.hellodanes.com/product/great-dane-e-collar-training-guide/)

PEOPLE ARE TALKING

There are hundreds if not THOUSANDS of reports from people that their Halo collar is broken, stopped functioning, doesn’t work and is cheaply made. This is NOT a few random bad reviews. The % of customers unhappy with this product is unreal. 

Halo deletes MANY of these comments and negative feedback from the commentary on their social media ads. As a matter of fact, when I politely commented asking them a question about their tool and the training method, I was BLOCKED!

We were able to find a video on Youtube with nearly 20K views that outlines many things that are wrong with the Halo Collar. It is made primarily of weak plastic parts which may fail and leave your dog unprotected. 

Several people, including the person in this video have reported that if they had problems with their collar, they were given an option to purchase a refurbished model for another $250. 

Halo says often ‘we are working on it’. 

AUTOMATION FAIL

There have been enough reports out there that the GPS aspect of the collar is unreliable that we are concerned that the collar is correcting dogs inappropriately. 

If the GPS thinks the dog is at the boundary, and corrects the dog with warnings and static, but the dog is actually sitting right next to you, that’s a massive problem. Or imagine if the dog is running towards the boundary (and perhaps even traffic), and the GPS thinks the dog is right next to you…

Well. We don’t want to think about that. 

Unreliable electronics and poor use of corrections is a massive reason that we never advocate for the use of cheap shock collars (remember, a properly used E-Collar is different).

Normally we say to stay away from cheap shock collars….but this device isn’t cheap! It’s insanely expensive, and we’re not sure why. 

HOW THE HALO COLLAR WORKS

IF the Halo collar is actually functioning properly with a strong, reliable GPS connection to the ‘fence’ you built in the app, you still have to work on training. Proper conditioning and training is important with any training tool, including harnesses, so this is to be expected. 

The Halo collar functions by using a tone or voice and then static to remind dogs to turn away from a boundary. The company does say you have to train your dog how to respond to the collar. It’s automated, but not automatic. 

We prefer that our dogs are amazing off-leash, not just ok at it. 

Halo DOES NOT teach recall.

It teaches the dog to view the stimulation as something to avoid, but it will not make your dog amazing at coming when called. 

For this reason, we strongly feel that a real E-Collar + Positive training is a better, safer and more humane long term solution.

With an E-Collar (NOT a shock collar!) you can teach your dog to respect invisible boundaries, come when called anywhere you are (including in areas you may be without a cell phone connection), lay down and wait, walk nicely on a leash and more. 

EASY Educator collar

HOW DO E-COLLARS WORK?

The E-Collar pictured above can be used with two dogs and retails for $349 (see it as well as 1, 3 and 4 dog models here).  

Unlike the Halo, a quality E-Collar comes with a waterproof, shock proof remote. You don’t have to rely on your phone or an app to control the device, and unlike Halo, you’ll have FULL control of all stimulation and communication in every moment. This is especially important if your dog were to try and bolt or do something dangerous.

E-Collars are DIFFERENT than inexpensive shock collars! They provide a gentle, blunt muscle stimulation that most humans cannot actually feel (Seriously! Read our guides on this and learn more about modern, humane and insanely effective E-Collar training: https://www.hellodanes.com/category/training/e-collar/).

SUMMARY

Do we think you should buy a Halo dog collar? 

Nope. I’m not even going to beat around the bush on this one.

It’s a garbage, poorly made collar from a shady, profit-focused company with terrible customer service, led by a controversial reality television star. 

Phew, that was a mouthful, but I really think it sums it up. Get away from the television, folks! Our dogs deserve so much better. 

NOTE: We’ve noticed that the Halo company has begun to remove their emphasis on their partnership with Cesar Milan. 

With Halo, you’ll pay through the nose for a tool that doesn’t offer even 1/2 the capabilities or reliability of a lower priced, HIGH quality E-Collar (such as E-Collar technologies, Garmin or SportDog, typically around $200-$400, even for multi-dog systems). 

The only reason we’d recommend a HALO collar is for people who cannot build a physical fence around their property and want something slightly more flexible than a traditional invisible fence.

That’s ALL this collar is, assuming that it works properly at all

Training boundaries with an E-Collar instead of Halo may take a little more effort from you as the dog owner at first, but it will pay off!

ESPECIALLY because you’ll help your dog develop amazing off-leash skills and recall, which is much safer than relying on a poorly made device to keep your dog safe.

We know many Dane owners who comfortably let their E-Collar trained dogs outside in an unfenced yard, even without their collars on, because they’ve put the time in and know that their dogs know how to recall AND respond calmly to distractions (two things that no invisible fence or boundary collar can teach). 

WANT MORE E-COLLAR TRAINING INFORMATION? 

We have a growing collection of FREE training and E-Collar training resources for Great Danes. Use the menu above to search, or click HERE for E-Collar training articles.

https://www.hellodanes.com/category/training/e-collar/

The information contained in this post is for informational purposes only. We do our best to present the most up-to-date research, however it is up to the reader to make decisions regarding the health and well-being of their dog. We make no claims here to prevent or treat bloat or any other condition related to Great Danes. Find a veterinarian with GIANT breed experience, and chat with them. 

Some of the products we list on our website contain affiliate links. If you choose to make a purchase, we may receive a small commission for referring you. We only recommend products that we truly believe in. This commission does not affect the price of the product and is used to fund our content and expenses related to operating this website. 

E-Collar Myths – Great Dane Training

E-Collar Myths – Great Dane Training

Many people view E-Collars (sometimes called ‘shock collars) as an ‘Easy button’ meant to startle and punish a dog that is acting out. This is labeled as ‘aversive’ training and rightfully so. 

The belief that this is how all E-Collars are used is unfortunately what gives E-Collars a BAD name, however. It’s important to note that a heavy-handed, aversive, forceful punishment-based approach is the exact opposite of how an E-Collar should be used. 

Today we are dispelling some common MYTHS about E-Collars and E-Collar training, so that you can make an informed decision. 

MYTH # 1: SHOCK COLLARS AND E-COLLARS ARE THE SAME THING

E-Collars and Shock collars look similar but they are very, very different tools.

You can read our blog post on this topic by clicking HERE.

E-Collars provide a blunt, tactile  muscle stimulation that feels like ants marching or a gentle tingle, and 100 levels to choose from.

Shock collars provide a sharp static correction is meant to HURT, with only a few levels to choose from.

If your goal is to hurt, startle, scare or intimidate your dog like they did back in 2001 I suppose a shock collar will work just fine. But shock collars SUCK. They deserve their sketchy reputation.

Proper E-Collars run $180 or MORE. They cannot be compared to or used the same way as cheap garbage shock collars from Amazon.
Read on…

MYTH #2: E-COLLARS MAKE DOGS FEARFUL AND ANXIOUS

Incorrectly used E-Collars can absolutely make a dog fearful, anxious or even aggressive. 

But so can incorrectly used head harnesses, no-pull harnesses, squirt bottles, crates and even LEASHES! 

Every single training tool, including those often labeled as ‘positive’ can be harmful or hurtful to a dog if used incorrectly. 

Confusing, punishment based restrictive training methods including intimidation and ‘Alpha/Dominance’ are what lead to fear, anxiety and aggression.

The tactile communication from a properly used E-Collar is more gentle than the tactile communication from a leash, no-pull harness, head collar, or tension on the neck from pulling.

That’s a fact, and one that tends to surprise a lot of people. 

MYTH #3: E-COLLARS ARE EXTREMELY AVERSIVE

Let’s compare a popular ‘positive’ dog training tool to a properly used E-Collar.

HEAD COLLAR. Head collars cause many dogs to paw, whine, become frantic or shut down. 
It is a rare dog who will accept a head collar without having a problem with it straight out of the gate. Halti and Gentle Leaders rely on tactile pressure, even just by being worn. 

Head collars require counter-conditioning and desensitization that often takes days or weeks. The dog will always experience constant pressure from the head collar and may injure themselves if they pull or lunge against it, even just to sniff the ground. 

Head collars are considered a ‘friendly’ tool and are used by many ‘positive’ trainers despite the fact that they rely heavily on positive punishment and pressure. 
The same thing is true when it comes to front-clip and no-pull harnesses., which also rely on pressure/punishment and obstructing the way a dog moves. These are  NOT ‘positive’ or ‘force-free’ tools.

E-COLLAR. E-Collars are introduced at a low level and paired with treats. Dogs do not shut down, become frantic or show signs of fear. Instead, they feel the stimulation and become very excited about it, all within minutes of being fully introduced to the tool! They know that the gentle stim = treats and good things.

This gentle stimulation is a tactile/touch sensation that feels like tiny ants crawling on the skin and can be used to communicate to the dog that redirecting back to the handler and ignoring distractions that cause lunging, barking or pulling is always a good thing.

I don’t know about you, but I’d MUCH rather feel a small occasional tingle (that I know how to respond to and know means good things when I do) than to spend my life restricted from natural movement with a long leash or a bunch of webbing clipped onto my chest or face.

MYTH #4: YOU CAN’T USE AN E-COLLAR AND STILL CLAIM TO BE POSITIVE

I suppose this is true if we are talking about those whom rely on shock, vibrate or high-level stim as an ‘easy button’ corrective tool. 

We don’t support such unethical E-Collar use at all.

Slapping an electric collar on a dog and using it straight up as a corrective tool is NOT humane, ethical, positive or appropriate. We agree!

In the last decade, HUGE strides have been made in dog training and the modern E-Collar is not used that way AT ALL. 

Basically put, dog trainers, dog owners and rescues who believe that all E-Collar training involves zapping a dog every time it reacts or steps out of line are uneducated about E-Collar training and unwilling to have an open mind about it. 

The trainers who are doing E-Collar training correctly include people such as Larry Krohn and Tyler Muto, who use a hugely positive approach (lots of treats, praise, games and confidence building) and teach the E-Collar as a communication tool for off-leash reliability, not a correction tool.

They believe, as we do, that all foundational skills must first be taught without the E-Collar: sit, down, leave it, drop it, wait, come, place, stay and touch. 

They also believe that it is completely inappropriate to ‘light a dog up‘ for emotional and fear based reactivity, including barking, lunging, aggression and leash aggression. 

Run from any trainer who tells you to use the E-Collar to teach basic behaviors and then use it to ‘correct’ them with stim for not complying. That is NOT appropriate E-Collar training and IS the reason why this tool has such a negative reputation.

What does E-Collar training actually look like? 

The first step is to condition the dog to the stimulation, by teaching them that it means really, really good things. Remember, this stimulation, for a large majority of dogs (even big, powerful Danes) is less than most humans can feel! 

Stim…treat. Stim…treat. Come…treat! Stim, Come….treat! YES! 

If you watch the body language of a dog being conditioned to an E-Collar, you see loose posture, wagging tail, eye contact, drive and excitement. After a few repetitions, they feel the stim and become VERY excited and run to the handler. 

Not unlike clicker training. Interesting. Unfortunately, MANY unethical trainers and uneducated dog owners completely skip the conditioning step and see the tool as a correction device for frustrating behaviors, and that’s unfortunate. 

When done correctly, the E-Collar becomes the leash and in many ways, is less aversive, less restrictive, and less harmful than a leash (especially if the dog pulls or lunges). In the first session with the E-Collar, most dogs learn quickly that stim = follow/come/be with me and they LOVE IT.

No leash pressure, no tension, no stress on the neck, chest or shoulders. The dog is free to move naturally and is simply asked, through a gentle stimulation and treats, to be responsive to the handler. They are not being corrected or punished, either. 

It’s interesting how that is considered ‘forceful’ and damaging. We believe it’s simply ignorance and a lack of education, or people who prefer to outright judge,  have a closed mind and are unwilling to learn about this. 

MYTH #5: E-COLLARS HURT THE DOG

Modern E-Collars (view them here) have 100 levels of stimulation that can be increased incrementally.

Most dogs respond to stimulation levels of 10 or less.

For perspective, it’s important to understand that most humans cannot even feel the stimulation until it’s been set at a level of 12 or higher. 

A stimulation level of 6 or 7 is almost imperceptible. The sensation is so gentle that it is completely non-aversive. If it were hurting the dog, the dog being trained would show signs of stress. If a dog shows signs of stress while being trained, something is not being done correctly. 

At worst, the stimulation from an E-Collar may be seen as mildly annoying to the dog. Which, a harness, leash, long line, head collar or keeping a door shut until the dog sits calmly may produce the same feelings.

The dog knows (through conditioning) how to quickly get rid of the tingling sensation. They are in control and can easily get rid of the ‘annoying’ thing. They also know that getting rid of it means treats and praise! 

That head collar or long leash though? There is nothing they can do about those.  They stay, whether the dog likes it or not. 

MYTH #6 – E-COLLARS ARE UNNECESSARY

There is this idea out there that because a recall can be taught without an E-Collar, it should be and that there is no reason to add a tool to the mix.

But the truth is, when done correctly, E-Collar trained dogs are enthusiastic, happy, calm and often offered more freedom and autonomy than many other dogs. 
How anybody can see that and say those dogs are abused is beyond us. 

The E-Collar is an invisible leash. It gives an extra step of security on top an already outstanding, positively trained recall. 

So is it ‘necessary’? No. Is it extremely helpful and beneficial when it comes to safety and giving a dog additional freedom? YES. 

If a positive-only trained recall is blown off, there is no backup.

The E-Collar is a great safety device. Positive-trained dogs would benefit from knowing and understand E-Collar stimulation for this reason. To go without is like riding without a seatbelt. 

The E-Collar provides a gentle, crystal clear communication to the dog from a distance, which ultimately allows for much more freedom. The tactile sensation can be used to communicate to a dog that it needs to come back, walk away from somebody else on the path, or has gone too far away. It can be used in an emergency, if the dog decides to chase a squirrel into traffic.

A higher level of stimulation is less harmful in that last situation than if the dog were to hit the end of a long leash and be jammed up by the neck as a result. 

This is especially true for dogs that need to move naturally and explore in order to feel enriched. 

‘Shocking’ and punishing a dog for blowing off a recall is NOT HOW IT WORKS. Applying a gentle tactile stimulation that they know how to respond to (come back and it goes away) IS how it works. 

Interestingly enough, if you condition a dog correctly to the E-Collar, you rarely if ever have to use it. It’s not this ‘abusive’ tool of force that some people like to say it is. 

MYTH #7 – STUDIES SHOW E-COLLARS CAUSE STRESS

Not a single one of those studies, that we’ve found, studied dogs where the dog was conditioned to the E-Collar first and trained with a lot of positive reinforcement.

Shock and startle training will absolutely cause stress. Cheap shock collars CAUSE STRESS. Stimming dogs for messing up, especially when they don’t know what’s being asked of them,  will CAUSE STRESS.

Many of those studies lump shock collars and E-Collars together as the same tool; which they aren’t. The studies are not peer-reviewed. They are often biased and always extremely flawed.

Yet, people continue to cite them…even trainers who claim to be ‘science-based’.  There is nothing science-based about citing studies that were not correctly done.

Watch this video of Larry Krohn conditioning a dog to the E-Collar. Please send us an email and tell us where this dog is stressed, anxious or being forced.

MYTH #8: VIBRATE IS BETTER THAN ‘SHOCK’

Most shock collars and E-Collars come with a ‘vibrate’ function. 

Many dog owners believe that ‘vibrate’ is a gentle way to correct their dog, and will proudly state that they use that and would ‘never use shock unless necessary’.

Remember, we believe that shock collars are absolute garbage. So yeah, shocking a dog is not ok. That’s not E-Collar training and shock and startle is not the most effective training, either. 

Newsflash, though…vibrate mode is super-duper aversive to most dogs.

Does it succeed in punishing a dog for a behavior? Yup. Does it redirect dogs? Sure. Does it make owners feel ‘good’ about using it? Unfortunately, yes.

Take your vibration collar and put it in the palm of your hand to experience it. Have somebody else randomly hit the vibrate button when you aren’t paying attention.  It’s really annoying and startling.

Take a PROPER E-Collar (like the Educator series) and put it on a level 7 (average stim where most dogs enthusiastically work). Feel it on your body somewhere. Heck, bump it up to a 14 and try again.

Tell me which YOU would prefer.

Folks, vibration mode is bad. 

READY TO GET STARTED?

We rely heavily on positive reinforcement AND we use E-Collars to give our dogs security in their off-leash adventures. 

Hello Danes is an authorized distributor of E-Collar Technologies products, and we are here to help you train your Great Dane in a positive, ethical way. Imagine off-leash freedom and more. 

Let’s do this! Shop our collection of high-quality E-Collars for Great Danes here, and use code ECOLLARMAGIC for $10 off. Our E-Collars ship directly from the manufacturer. 

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